OMD EM1 mki - Poor Resolution... What'd I do wrong?

Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Good afternoon All,

First round with my OMD EM1 mki was pretty disappointing... I'm using the 12-50 Oly Kit Lens, but had very low resolution with my shots. I've previously shot with Nikon D200 & D5500 with far better results.

I know this is a loaded question, i'd prefer not to upload the images simply because it's of all 15 of our young children / cousins ages 10 and under, but in short, it looks like the shots were taken with my 4mp Kodak from 2003... actually worse.

I was shooting auto "P" mode for part of it (Jpeg), then the rest .ORF with a ISO 200, ESD matrix mode, in sunny conditions mid-day, at 24mm.

Is this lens that poor... I've never had resolution this poor on any of my other ASP-C cameras.

Thanks!

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"A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor"

JaKing · Sep 10, 2018

Hard to comment without any examples. Here is a shot with my E-M1 MkI + 12-50:

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Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Here's an example from the same day, same light... just looks like high ISO I suppose. Perhaps I'm just accustomed to 24mp and my 1.8 35mm Nikkor...

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Olympus OMD-EM1, M.Zuiko 12-50 & Searching

"A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor"

drj3 · Sep 10, 2018

Without images and EXIF, there is little anyone can do to answer your questions or help you. The lens is not as sharp as the better Pro lenses, but there should not be that much difference for most situations where you don't need the wider aperture.

Imaging Resource review of 12-50

"The 12-50mm provides excellent results for sharpness: used wide open at 12mm, the lens provides a sharp center and just slightly soft corners; it's basically as sharp as it will get at ƒ/3.5, only getting very slightly better when stopped down to ƒ/4. Stopping down any further doesn't provide any further gains. In the mid-range of 25mm, the lens shows its best results: it's tack sharp at 25mm and ƒ/5.1, and remains so until diffraction limiting begins to set in at ƒ/8. If there is a weakness to this lens, it would be at the 50mm point, where the lens isn't as tack-sharp as other settings and the maximum aperture is a comparatively slow ƒ/6.3. It still provides very good, if not excellent results, and one only need to stop down to ƒ/8 to get a slight improvement."

I cannot say anything about the P mode, since I use Manual, Aperture, or Shutter Preferred modes.

What focus points did you use? Different cameras use different focusing algorithms. Did you have the face and/or Eye Priority On?

If you want to shoot jpeg, first shoot a set of RAW images in different situations. Then open the RAW files in Olympus Viewer 3 (it will open them with the camera settings you used). You can change the settings in OV3 to mimic different camera settings, enabling you to know the best camera settings for shooting jpeg images.

Bassam Guy · Sep 10, 2018

The hugging scene was out of focus. I noticed the back of the hugger's hands showed motion blur when zoomed to 100%. I found nothing in the scene that was focused. Perhaps the camera was moving rapidly(?). (BTW, you'll really appreciate the EM-1's IBIS).

itguy08 · Sep 10, 2018

Handiworks said:
Here's an example from the same day, same light... just looks like high ISO I suppose. Perhaps I'm just accustomed to 24mp and my 1.8 35mm Nikkor...

There is some noise @ 100% but I don't think that's the issue. Looking at the pic in loupe view it seems that focus was on the man's shirt as it seems to be sharp but the others seem to be soft. There may also be mirror slap or something as looking at the hands of the children hugging have visible ghosting.

Resolution seems fine as @ 100% you can read some of the text on the car seat in the background.

Check your IBIS and focus settings would be my suggestion.

Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Sorry,

I replied a few posts up with this example from the same day, same conditions.. I think I'm just missing my 24 mp and 1.8 35mm Nikkor

.

Sounds like the 50mm mark for this lens may not be the best as well. Perhaps I need to grab the Panny 1.7 20mm.

Thanks again!

--
Olympus OMD-EM1, M.Zuiko 12-50 & Searching

"A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor"

Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

What setting would you set the IBIS for? I've watched a couple hour long tutorials and read several "My favorite OMD EM1 settings" forum and website threads, but still have much to learn about this camera. It's my first Olympus and my first M43.

Thanks!

Dprr · Sep 10, 2018

This looks like shutter shock. Do you have Anti Shock 0 (EFCS) option selected? Turn it on and you should get better images.

Handiworks said:
Here's an example from the same day, same light... just looks like high ISO I suppose. Perhaps I'm just accustomed to 24mp and my 1.8 35mm Nikkor...

Robert Evagelista · Sep 10, 2018

Try to shoot Aperture Priority,
Adjust aperture to widest the lens allow you.
use exposure Compensation to adjust exposure.

Give it time:
The kit lens is one versatile lens, I had a lot of fun using it.

here are samples with E-M1 mk 1 and Kit lens

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Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Here's the main pic I'm trying to ascertain the issues with... mounted on a tripod, so I don't think it was an IBIS issue... The Anti Shock is turned off (one of the many suggestions on a couple of "Best Settings" threads I read). I had the custom timer setting on (which is an amazing feature!).

Thanks again... frustrated with the results of our yearly gathering's family pic. My pics last year with my D5500 were spot on.

--
Olympus OMD-EM1, M.Zuiko 12-50 & Searching

"A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor"

Terrible Photographer · Sep 10, 2018

Handiworks said:
Here's an example from the same day, same light... just looks like high ISO I suppose. Perhaps I'm just accustomed to 24mp and my 1.8 35mm Nikkor...

I'd agree with you, this doesn't look great and I'd be disappointed as well.

1st, with micro 4/3rds, shallow DOF and subject isolation are really hard to achieve without really fast lenses. That 12-50 is slow by anyones standards, and optically IMO not that great.

2nd, That 12-50 isn't really THAT great. The sharpness and acuity I'm seeing in this, mirrors my own experiences with it, and my dissatisfaction as well.

3rd, for micro 4/3rds, ISO 800 is considered high ISO. I have an E-M1 as well, and 1600 is my limit, 800 is the limit where color fidelity still looks good

4th, RAW converters make a big difference. Oly files look alot better in Capture One vs Lightroom. In C1, ISO LOW and 200 is totally clean, LR it's noisy.

I bet if you got your hands on an Olympus 25mm f/1.8, shot it wide open and ISO 200-400, you'll be satisfied with the results. If you're not happy with that, than m4/3rds isn't the right system for you.

Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Beautiful Pics! Thanks for sharing... especially the cityscape!

Denjw · Sep 10, 2018

Handiworks said:
Sorry,

I replied a few posts up with this example from the same day, same conditions.. I think I'm just missing my 24 mp and 1.8 35mm Nikkor .

Sounds like the 50mm mark for this lens may not be the best as well. Perhaps I need to grab the Panny 1.7 20mm.

Thanks again!

A check of EXIF/Properties reveals that IBIS was Off.

Shutter speed 1/100 sec with IBIS off combined with movement of subjects and possible camera shake would contribute to the lack of sharpness/clarity.

Depending on AF target area being applied using C-AF may also have contributed to the disappointing result. If other then Small Target the camera may have chosen another focus point then what was intended.

What was your Noise Filter setting? Best Off or Low for Jpegs.

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drj3 · Sep 10, 2018

The faces are too noisy or possibly just out of the depth of field for ISO 800. Attached is one of the few images of people I could find with a similar ISO (different lens with wider aperture), but it should at least give some indication of what you should expect of faces with an ISO of 1000 from the camera in a setting with sunlight and shadows. The image is just an OV3 exported jpeg with no PP.

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Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Terrible Photographer said:
Handiworks said:

Here's an example from the same day, same light... just looks like high ISO I suppose. Perhaps I'm just accustomed to 24mp and my 1.8 35mm Nikkor...

Click to expand...

I'd agree with you, this doesn't look great and I'd be disappointed as well.

1st, with micro 4/3rds, shallow DOF and subject isolation are really hard to achieve without really fast lenses. That 12-50 is slow by anyones standards, and optically IMO not that great.

2nd, That 12-50 isn't really THAT great. The sharpness and acuity I'm seeing in this, mirrors my own experiences with it, and my dissatisfaction as well.

3rd, for micro 4/3rds, ISO 800 is considered high ISO. I have an E-M1 as well, and 1600 is my limit, 800 is the limit where color fidelity still looks good

4th, RAW converters make a big difference. Oly files look alot better in Capture One vs Lightroom. In C1, ISO LOW and 200 is totally clean, LR it's noisy.

I bet if you got your hands on an Olympus 25mm f/1.8, shot it wide open and ISO 200-400, you'll be satisfied with the results. If you're not happy with that, than m4/3rds isn't the right system for you.

Thanks for the well rounded advice. I'm thinking that was my next move.. Try a prime 1.7 or 1.8 and see if I can get the results I need... I forgot how much low light I actually shoot with when it comes to my family. So love the size, and form factor of M43.

I was able to grap an EM1 mk 1 and this lens mint for only $460 so I thought I'd give it a whirl while trying to decide on what FF system I want to buy into for landscape. I could tell everything was about to change last year and sold all my Nikon ASPC gear so I could get some kind of decent return lol.

--
Olympus OMD-EM1, M.Zuiko 12-50 & Searching

"A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor"

Terrible Photographer · Sep 10, 2018

Handiworks said:
Here's the main pic I'm trying to ascertain the issues with... mounted on a tripod, so I don't think it was an IBIS issue... The Anti Shock is turned off (one of the many suggestions on a couple of "Best Settings" threads I read). I had the custom timer setting on (which is an amazing feature!).

Thanks again... frustrated with the results of our yearly gathering's family pic. My pics last year with my D5500 were spot on.

Holy cow that looks horrible.

That looks horrible because it was shot at ISO 8000 (WHY!?!), F/11, AND overexposed. The hug shot is a combination of High ISO, with a lousy optic. This one definitely isn't the camera, this one is just plain old pilot error

Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Thanks! Beautiful Pic!

Handiworks · Sep 10, 2018

Denjw said:
Handiworks said:

Sorry,

I replied a few posts up with this example from the same day, same conditions.. I think I'm just missing my 24 mp and 1.8 35mm Nikkor .

Sounds like the 50mm mark for this lens may not be the best as well. Perhaps I need to grab the Panny 1.7 20mm.

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

A check of EXIF/Properties reveals that IBIS was Off.

Shutter speed 1/100 sec with IBIS off combined with movement of subjects and possible camera shake would contribute to the lack of sharpness/clarity.

Depending on AF target area being applied using C-AF may also have contributed to the disappointing result. If other then Small Target the camera may have chosen another focus point then what was intended.

What was your Noise Filter setting? Best Off or Low for Jpegs.

Noise Filter was set to Off... I thought I had IBIS on... perhaps I didn't understand the setting descriptions, I'll check it out. Spot Focus with C-AF Tracking (like this better than Nikon 3D!),

--
Olympus OMD-EM1, M.Zuiko 12-50 & Searching

"A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor"

itguy08 · Sep 10, 2018

Handiworks said:
Here's the main pic I'm trying to ascertain the issues with... mounted on a tripod, so I don't think it was an IBIS issue... The Anti Shock is turned off (one of the many suggestions on a couple of "Best Settings" threads I read). I had the custom timer setting on (which is an amazing feature!).

Thanks again... frustrated with the results of our yearly gathering's family pic. My pics last year with my D5500 were spot on.

This one is pretty simple. ISO8000! On nearly any camera that will give you similar results. Even my D750 will produce similar results at that high of an ISO. 1/2000 @ F11 seems crazy to me. You're not trying to stop motion here as it's a family portrait.

Maybe double check your Auto ISO and other settings.

OMD EM1 mki - Poor Resolution... What'd I do wrong?

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