Fujifilm X-T100 first impressions from a Pentax shooter...

On my X-T1, I re-assigned the video-button to a different function. Maybe also possible on the X-T100?
I really wish somebody would prove me wrong, but after consulting the user's manual, my understanding is that you can't re-assign the video button on the XT100.
On the X-T1 it wasn't specifically mentioned in the manual. But I could re-assign it in the menu where you program the various buttons. So maybe worth a try?
Thanks for the encouragement. Will give the video button on my XT100 a second look. If anybody out there has a definitive answer about re-assigning the video button, i.e., re-purposing it for use as a BBF, please don't hesitate to chime in.
The video record button on my XT100 can't be reassigned to anything else like back button focusing.
Thanks for confirming my fears about that video button, soup ****. On the one hand, I'm glad the XT100 does at least offer a BBF option, even if it is poorly implemented, IMO. Lackof BBF on a Fuji X body would certainly have been a deal breaker for me. I get the impression that Fuji's placement of the Fn button (i.e., the BBF) on the XT100 doesn't bother other XT100 shooters as much as it does me. I think if they couldn't locate it where the video button sits, then they should have placed it in the vertical right hand corner where it falls under my thumb whenever I pick up my X-T1 body.
 
Bluetooth is not that great for transferring large files. Relatively low bandwidth compared to WiFi. On the other hand, it uses much less energy. That makes it better for an always on connection like geotaging.
It is my understanding that Bluetooth is used to negotiate the communication between the phone/tablet and the camera due to its low power consumption, but the transfer of files and data is all done through WiFi still. Geotagging may still be done through Bluetooth, but it has an infrequent update interval, so it's neither here n'or there.
I walked around an area about the size of a football field using the Bluetooth geotagging. During a 30 minute walk, of 25 pics I took, 7 were within a couple meters of accuracy, 15 were within 15 meters of accuracy, and 3 were about .5 kilometer off. Not sure what the deal was with the ones that were off, but otherwise the geotagging was updating rather accurately over spans of a minute or so between shots.
 
In the previous post I commented about the geotagging with the X-T100, but I just noticed an odd deal with the time stamps.

On my first shot the JPG is dated 26 hours, 54 minutes ahead of the parallel RAF file. It decreases slowly until about 8 minutes into my walk, the dates / times become equal.

The RAF files were accurate. I have the Bluetooth setting so that it provides both time and location. The time stamp as indicated on the camera itself does match the phone.

Not sure what's going on there...
 
I received the Fotasy Pro Pentax DA K Mount lens to Fujifilm FX Mount Camera Adapter today. ($20 on Amazon)
Attaching the lens to the adapter and the adapter to my X-T100 body is very firm. No looseness, and if anything, a bit tight.
I checked out two lenses today: Pentax DA 10-17 FE and DA 16-85. The former is the one I was planning to use with some regularity. The latter was used as part of a comparison using the lenses on the Fuji and on my K-3.
The adapter adds about 3cm to the overall length of the lens. It's still rather compact compared to putting the lens on the K-3, but the adapter and DA 10-17 weigh about as much as X-T100 and the 15-45 kit lens!
I used the menu (Shooting Menu #4) to "shoot without lens" and set the MF Assist to Peak > Red (high). You can also input a specific focal length. There is no IBIS, but it is a handy way to set an odd number to identify a lens. (E.g., I set it to 49mm to designate that I was using the DA 16-85.)
As for shooting, I moved the adapter all the way to the Open position to manage focussing. The peak indicators work well, better on the LCD but also well enough in the EVF. The best way I found was to use the EVF and the magnification feature. With this, I was able to nail focus quite well.
The trick, however, (which will require more experimenting), is that you're just guessing when you try to stop down the lens using the adapter ring. It appears that it stops it down very quickly. I.e., just a tiny fraction of a turn probably moved the DA 16-85 from wide open to f8. (I'm guesstimating based on the shutter speeds and ISOs when comparing the same shot using the Fuji and the K-3.)

If anyone knows of a better way of managing the f-stop, I'd appreciate knowing.
As for the images...

The X-T100 did as good and usually better than the K-3 in almost all my tests. And that's with me shooting at wide open and otherwise unknown f-stops. In line w/ its reputation, the Fuji JPGs are excellent with more clarity and pop than the in-camera JPGs of the K-3. After some typical, light processing of the RAF and DNG files (setting levels, sharpening), the Fuji pics still just looked a little better. If I understand things correctly, the ~40MB RAF files are uncompressed RAW files and the ~30MB DNG files are compressed, but there seems to be lots more detail in the images.
I am not giving up on my K-3, however.
  • I was able to shoot at 85mm in decent light without motion blur on the Fuji. I don't know how much of a longer telephoto I can shoot handheld without image stabilization.
  • There is a difference in noise in the images. I'm having trouble saying which one is less noticeable or easier to clean up, but my sense is that the K-3 will do better in low light and higher ISOs.
  • The K-3 and DA 16-85 is weather resistant, and that's important at times.
  • While I've figured out ways to get geotagging data on my K-3 images (using a GPX file), the geotagging on the Fuji using the Bluetooth on my phone is proving to be excellent.
In any case, putting my Pentax lenses on the X-T100 is going to work out very well, I think. I still want to see how things go with longer lenses and some of my older lenses w/ aperture rings so that I don't need to use the aperture control on the adapter. And as I mentioned above, if anyone knows a good way to gauge the aperture settings with the Fotasy adapter, I'd be grateful.
 
I use the K & F adapter which probably has a similar spread in terms of aperture jumps - providing seven clicks. This yields roughly 1.3-1.5 stops per click. If you really want to nail it down precisely, you would be best off charting shutter speed wide open, then calculating the aperture at each click based on the amount of reduced shutter speed. This is likely to vary at least somewhat with each lens. Not an exercise I'm willing to do. In any event, most of my old preferred PK lenses have aperture rings - so I'm happily not using the adapter mechanism most of time.

I very much endorse the purchase of a Zhongyi Turbo II reducer (needing some minor, easy reworking using the EOS-FX version, adapted to Vello LA-CEF-PK, removal of PK catch mechanism and re-slotted to correct mount alignment differences). Most normal to telephoto lenses work very well with the focal reducer - and you will see improved contrast and less CA at the wider apertures of most lenses adapted. The focal reducer is smaller in barrel length than your empty mount (but heavier, of course)...
 
I use the K & F adapter which probably has a similar spread in terms of aperture jumps - providing seven clicks. This yields roughly 1.3-1.5 stops per click. If you really want to nail it down precisely, you would be best off charting shutter speed wide open, then calculating the aperture at each click based on the amount of reduced shutter speed. This is likely to vary at least somewhat with each lens. Not an exercise I'm willing to do. In any event, most of my old preferred PK lenses have aperture rings - so I'm happily not using the adapter mechanism most of time.
JNR
Ah... the Fotasy adapter I have does not have aperture clicks. (Maybe that's better for video?) I can't find a K&F one on Amazon, but I see they are on eBay for $37. (I paid $20 for the Fotasy.) I'll have to decide whether to keep the Fotasy or not, but I would prefer clicks.

I see that Adorama has a Kipon one for $85, but it doesn't say if it is clicked or not. B&H has a Vello for $56 and a Novoflex for $211 (!), but it's not clear whether those are clicked or not.

Thanks for your comments.
 
Just finished trying the X-T100 with the Fotasy adapter and the Pentax DA 40XS. This is a super combination! Even with the adapter, it's smaller than the kit 15-45 lens. (Though it is a bit heavier.) The 40XS is decent wide open, but just closing down slightly makes for a really sharp image. This will be great for a walk around setup.
 
  • I was able to shoot at 85mm in decent light without motion blur on the Fuji. I don't know how much of a longer telephoto I can shoot handheld without image stabilization.
85mm is pretty much my limit also. I'm using a x-mount Samyang 85mm F1.4 but they are previewing a new and much smaller and lighter version, a 85mm F1.8.

I have a 135mm Leica lens that I can use with a M-mount adapter. I have to set the shutter speed very fast to avoid motion blur.

I also have a 300mm Samyang x-mount mirror lens (F6.3). I have to set the shutter speed really fast to avoid motion blur, and it is so jumpy in the viewfinder that I have a lot of trouble focusing it. Needless to say, I almost never use this lens.
 
For me, the XT100 designers could have more sensibly sited the Fn button in the spot now occupied by the red dot video button, roughly in the 12 o'clock position off the EV compensation dial. This is where it's located on the X-A1/-M1, where one can trigger BBF quite effortlessly with the index finger.
On my X-T1, I re-assigned the video-button to a different function. Maybe also possible on the X-T100?
I really wish somebody would prove me wrong, but after consulting the user's manual, my understanding is that you can't re-assign the video button on the XT100.
My X-T100 manual shows only one button that can be re-assigned, and it is the Fn button. See pages 153 and 169.

Maybe the number of programmable buttons will increase after a firmware update or two. I might be mistaken, but I think the first update is due out soon.
 
Here are a couple shots as I've been playing around with the X-T100.

Both of these are SOOC except for resizing. I'm quite impressed with the JPG quality.

Kit lens 15-45 at 23mm f9 using selective red

X-T100 with 15-45 at 23mm f9
X-T100 with 15-45 at 23mm f9

And here is with the Pentax DA40XS, Pentax's smallest pancake lens. It's much smaller than the 15-45 (though heavier) and makes for a compact unit.



X-T100 with Fotasy adapter for Pentax, DA 40XS lens
X-T100 with Fotasy adapter for Pentax, DA 40XS lens
 
Any chance you can send us some images of your X-T100 with the adapted lenses on it?
 
Any chance you can send us some images of your X-T100 with the adapted lenses on it?
Here is the X-T100 with the Fotasy Pentax DA > Fuji X adapter and the Pentax DA 40XS lens.



238c4291cc5b451c9e131ada60cc1327.jpg
 
The Pentax 40mm is indeed a very small lens. I have the manual version of it, which I use as a body-cap for my K100D.
 
Just finished trying the X-T100 with the Fotasy adapter and the Pentax DA 40XS. This is a super combination! Even with the adapter, it's smaller than the kit 15-45 lens. (Though it is a bit heavier.) The 40XS is decent wide open, but just closing down slightly makes for a really sharp image. This will be great for a walk around setup.
I think the 40xs is a fine little lens... even though I haven't been using it on the Fuji. I plan to adapt the K-01 to infrared... and it could get use on that body when hiking in New Mexico. Your assessment is the same as mine. It has a more classic look, but still sharp... not at all surprising as the design is around 50 years old.

Now to the K&F adapter situation... I have used the Fotasy adapters, and they are OK but not great. The internal paint is way too glossy and does degrade image quality (corrected with matte black model paint, but that's a hassle). The K&F is superb in every way. You can get it directly for a bit less than the price you saw...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-F-Concep...-to-Fujifilm-FX-X-Pro1-X-Pro2-M1/222705655774

I can't help but push the Zhongyi reducer... which is stellar for the price at under $150.

Here's a photo from today... taken with the m50 f/1.4 at f/5.6 (effectively converted to 36mm f/4):

6416b4bb5f0d4dcfaf7f1ecb5fe062de.jpg
 
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Thank you, JNR! That's very helpful. I'll put the Zhongyi reducer on my list, but that's going to have to wait awhile.... That's a beautiful pic. I have an A50 f.14, so that's encouraging.

Your comments on the Fotasy adapter make me wonder if that's part of the problem I've been having with crazy distortion on one of lenses. HERE is the thread.

Thanks again.
 
  • I'm trying to describe the different types of noise in images. The K-3 has a much larger dynamic range, but at similar ISOs (e.g., 1600), there may be more noise in the Fuji images, but it's finer and mainly luminance noise that can be fixed. I.e., except in the lowest light situations, I think I'll be fine with the Fuji.
How did you determine that the K-3 has "a much larger dynamic range" than the X-T100?

Bill Claff who does extensive work in measuring noise and DR of virtually every camera on the market would not agree. Bill has not yet tested the X-T100 but the sensor silicon is the same as the X-T20 but with a Bayer CFA. I wouldn't expect the X-T100's DR and noise to be any different than the X-T20's.

Results of Claff's evaluation can be found here .

Bob
 
Thank you, JNR! That's very helpful. I'll put the Zhongyi reducer on my list, but that's going to have to wait awhile.... That's a beautiful pic. I have an A50 f.14, so that's encouraging.
I have the m50 version - as it was a Pentax USA deal I got in my camera selling days - more than three decades ago. The A50 is a redesign - and is tad sharper and has more contrast. In fact, the optical design continues to this day - it is that good!
Your comments on the Fotasy adapter make me wonder if that's part of the problem I've been having with crazy distortion on one of lenses. HERE is the thread.
I'd have to say the Electronic Shutter setting is the most likely culprit. To be avoided unless you need really rapid shooting, or a totally silent shutter. Still, it is a mystery as what you are shooting isn't moving, so you shouldn't get the rolling shutter effect. The Fotasy adapter can't be the culprit. You should solve the issue before looking at other adapter options.
 
  • I'm trying to describe the different types of noise in images. The K-3 has a much larger dynamic range, but at similar ISOs (e.g., 1600), there may be more noise in the Fuji images, but it's finer and mainly luminance noise that can be fixed. I.e., except in the lowest light situations, I think I'll be fine with the Fuji.
How did you determine that the K-3 has "a much larger dynamic range" than the X-T100?

Bill Claff who does extensive work in measuring noise and DR of virtually every camera on the market would not agree. Bill has not yet tested the X-T100 but the sensor silicon is the same as the X-T20 but with a Bayer CFA. I wouldn't expect the X-T100's DR and noise to be any different than the X-T20's.

Bob
You are correct. I was speaking inaccurately simply of how I was pulling a bit more detail from shadows with the K-3. That's not dynamic range. It could also be a matter of how I'm shooting (EV levels, ISO, shutter, etc.) and how I'm processing in LR.

Basically what I meant is that at ISO 1600, I can get better results with the Pentax than the X-T100, but I'm very happy with the results at ISO 800 and lower.
 
Your comments on the Fotasy adapter make me wonder if that's part of the problem I've been having with crazy distortion on one of lenses. HERE is the thread.
I'd have to say the Electronic Shutter setting is the most likely culprit. To be avoided unless you need really rapid shooting, or a totally silent shutter. Still, it is a mystery as what you are shooting isn't moving, so you shouldn't get the rolling shutter effect. The Fotasy adapter can't be the culprit. You should solve the issue before looking at other adapter options.
 

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