Nikon 17-35 f/2.8 SWM disassembly

anish5701 · Feb 11, 2018

Hi all,

I had been using a 17-35 f/2.8 af-s that had developed a squeak over the years and then would stop auto-focusing intermittently till it eventually jammed completely.

Coming from a non-Nikon repair center part of the world, I once tried getting an estimate and repair evaluation at Nikon Thailand but was told that I was to wait for 2 weeks and because I was there on business for a few days couldn't leave it there. (a shutter replacement on a D600 took almost 3 months by Nikon Thailand).

An unofficial repair technician here suspected corrosion/dirt on the rotor-stator the cause behind the squeak and ultimate stick and we took apart the lens tonight and removed the SWM unit. We cannot figure out how to disassemble the SWM unit and searching on the internet didn't help. There seems to be a groove and thread on the top contact plate which seems to be glued into place. Is that the way to open it up?

Kindly would appreciate any help or pointers to open the unit up or any information to solve the auto-focus issue. (Ultimately ordering a new SWM unit from ebay if nothing else works would be inevitable but a long complicated process in this part of the world so we would want to avoid that)

Best Regards,

Camillo · Apr 18, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
Camillo said:

anish5701 said:

Dear Camillo,

Awaiting your reply, thankyou!

Best regards,

Anish

Click to expand...

Hi Anish, I will try to be brief and to the point. Now this motor is the same one used in the Nikon 28-70 2.8, Nikon 80-200 2.8 AFS and the Nikon 17-35 2.8. This motors develop a thin invisible layer of oxidation on both the stator and rotor which over time causes the lens to squeak and later on totally stop moving altogether. This is an ultrasonic motor as you know, but ultrasonic motors do not like oils (Especially skin oils) or any kind of oxidation caused by humidity etc. So please avoid touching the motor with your bare hands. The motor is tight because it has some lock tight material the keeps it together and I would advice not to disassemble as this is carefully calibrated to a certain specification that is best to maintain.

Things you will need:

-about 2-3 pairs of latex gloves

-A metal polish solution made for stainless steel and aluminum surfaces

-Tooth picks and q tips

-Micro fiber cloth

This is a photo of the metal polish substance I found in the country I'm in, it's liquid and worked like a champ for me:

Ok now, if you touched the motor with your hands then get some alcohol 90 and with a q tip apply gently to both stator and rotor so you can degrease both sides, you can use the micro fiber cloth to dry.

After you degrease the motor shake the compound and then apply with some q tips on the motor, you have to get it in between the stator and rotor and all around the motor as shown here:

Then wait and let it set. and dry. I used a wooden stick to separate the to halves for illustration purposes but you can pry both sides open with your fingers while applying the compound.

After it dries proceed to polish with the fiber cloth untill both halves are shiny like it was basically new. Use a giotto rocket blower to blow some of the left over dust from the polishing compound off the motor as you polish. To remove the compound and polish between the gaps in the teeth you need a tooth pick with a little bit of cotton rolled up at the tip like so:

Repeat the application a second time just to be sure that the motor is as clean as possible.

Here is how mine looks like after I polished it:

This procedure works because this motors rely on the surfaces of the motor to being smooth and perfect as the smoothness is the "lubricant" that the motor glides over. So they start to squeak when oxidation forms because the surface is not smooth and it causes the motor to slow down and require more of an effort to move.

After this reassemble, test and it should be quiet, blazing, fast, accurate and like new in operation. This should be good to go for another 5 to 10 years at which time you will need to repeat the procedure although as you can see you don't have to disassemble the lens entirely, for this procedure can be performed with the motor in situ.

All the best please let me know how it worked out. I am planning on a more complete tutorial on youtube but for now this should help!

Cam,

--
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

Click to expand...

Hi Camillo!

I received my Nikkor AF-S 80-200mm F2.8D lens yesterday and effectively the AF does nothing at all......I'm prepared to do the repair and clean the motor.......

......have you any advice/info on the disassembly?

Thanks in advance!

--
Dave's clichés

Yes my advice is be careful not to handle the lens by the mid section once you remove the rear screws, download a Nikon repair manual and pin point the location of contact brushes this lenses have. They are hard to find new or used and you do not want to damage any of them. Wear latex gloves at all times.

Best I wish you the success!!!

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DAVID MANZE · Apr 18, 2018

Thanks I have found a Japanese video and am very happy about that.......showing the disassembly of this very lens, the guys obviously not dismantled the lens before.......but he goes "piano piano" until he finds the culprit:............ the super squeaky motor!

I'm not a fan of gloves though.....but I'll buy a pair anyway!

Here's the link:

--
Dave's clichés

Camillo · Apr 20, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
Thanks I have found a Japanese video and am very happy about that.......showing the disassembly of this very lens, the guys obviously not dismantled the lens before.......but he goes "piano piano" until he finds the culprit:............ the super squeaky motor!

I'm not a fan of gloves though.....but I'll buy a pair anyway!

Here's the link:

DAVID MANZE · Apr 20, 2018

Camillo said:
DAVID MANZE said:

Thanks I have found a Japanese video and am very happy about that.......showing the disassembly of this very lens, the guys obviously not dismantled the lens before.......but he goes "piano piano" until he finds the culprit:............ the super squeaky motor!

I'm not a fan of gloves though.....but I'll buy a pair anyway!

Here's the link:

Click to expand...

DAVID MANZE · Apr 20, 2018

The very squeaking motor....removed..

Ok,

I've done all the appropriate work and cleaned the motor as Camillo described and spent hours cleaning the rotor/stator, but to no avail......it still chirps like a mockingbird when you turn it by hand.....so I took out the motor!

anish5701,

I see you managed to separate the rotor and stator from your images.....

.......how do the two come apart.....I have to look inside the two parts.....maybe there is still some dirt/polish.........it all looks clean as a whistle but feels judderry.

Appreciate some info to take the motor apart..

...otherwise there's one on ebay for £105..

Thanks in advance!

--
Dave's clichés

DAVID MANZE · Apr 22, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
The very squeaking motor....removed..

Ok,

I've done all the appropriate work and cleaned the motor as Camillo described and spent hours cleaning the rotor/stator, but to no avail......it still chirps like a mockingbird when you turn it by hand.....so I took out the motor!

anish5701,

I see you managed to separate the rotor and stator from your images.....

.......how do the two come apart.....I have to look inside the two parts.....maybe there is still some dirt/polish.........it all looks clean as a whistle but feels judderry.

Appreciate some info to take the motor apart..

...otherwise there's one on ebay for £105..

Thanks in advance!

--
Dave's clichés

Would just like to thank Camillo for his technical help via PMs.

To be continued...

--
Dave's clichés

DAVID MANZE · Apr 22, 2018

Motor showing the springs applying a closing action to the stator and rotor.

Motor the other way up, compression springs uppermost. Cocktail stick pointing to what looks like a sealant/glue joints under the gold plated contact ring, (which seems to be softening).

To separate the stator and rotor there are what look to be two threaded possible places where the inner tube could be undone. The spring side according to the OP's image is the side to undo.

There are also three holes in the ring to undo.

I'm looking to find out the how this ring is removed using acetone, I've applied some but nothing seems to be undoing......however the glue under the gold ring (where the cocktail stick indicates has softened) which led me to stop before I make a faux pas!

Still wondering how it comes apart!

The OP's image clearly shows the rotor separate from the nylon rollers so it came aprt somehow.

--
Dave's clichés

DAVID MANZE · Apr 22, 2018

anish5701 said:
Camillo said:

anish5701 said:

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

The OP's motor showing clearly the rotor on the lens motor tube!

--
Dave's clichés

Van Griff · Apr 22, 2018

DM

I haven't read all the postings in this thread so I hope this is not a duplication but here is an old posting with a solution for the SW squeak that may be of interest or assistance . . .

SWM Squeak

Good luck with your quest!

Best,

V G

Camillo · Apr 23, 2018

Van Griff said:
DM

I haven't read all the postings in this thread so I hope this is not a duplication but here is an old posting with a solution for the SW squeak that may be of interest or assistance . . .

SWM Squeak

Good luck with your quest!

Best,

V G

Hi thanks for the tip! while it may work on smaller SWM motors, ring type SWM motors found in professional lenses are protected by the front focusing ring and are not accesible nor visible by removing the AM-F switch. I know because I tried and theres no getting around proper disassembly of the lenses outer shell. When it comes to the contact cleaners, some are very very harsh on plastics and do not recommend spraying such liquid on lens interiors, specially because they can damage the circuit board or can get in to the delicate calibration variable resistors that can set the calibration of the AF off. Another reason is that the liquid can and most likely will get in to the lens and remove the lubricants needed for the zoom to work properly and smoothly or attack/damage the coatings on the lenses.

best!

Camillo · Apr 23, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
The very squeaking motor....removed..

Ok,

I've done all the appropriate work and cleaned the motor as Camillo described and spent hours cleaning the rotor/stator, but to no avail......it still chirps like a mockingbird when you turn it by hand.....so I took out the motor!

anish5701,

I see you managed to separate the rotor and stator from your images.....

.......how do the two come apart.....I have to look inside the two parts.....maybe there is still some dirt/polish.........it all looks clean as a whistle but feels judderry.

Appreciate some info to take the motor apart..

...otherwise there's one on ebay for £105..

Thanks in advance!

--
Dave's clichés

Hi I must clarify that the instructions were not followed exactly as described as water was used to flush the remaining polish off the motor. I only recommended alcohol 90 and the fine jewerly, aluminum and stainless steel polish to be used on the motor.

So please do not use water, solvents, oils or any other type of cleaners that can and will corrode or leave residue behind which will affect the smoothness of the surfaces.

Best!

--

https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/

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Camillo · Apr 23, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
Motor showing the springs applying a closing action to the stator and rotor.

Motor the other way up, compression springs uppermost. Cocktail stick pointing to what looks like a sealant/glue joints under the gold plated contact ring, (which seems to be softening).

To separate the stator and rotor there are what look to be two threaded possible places where the inner tube could be undone. The spring side according to the OP's image is the side to undo.

There are also three holes in the ring to undo.

I'm looking to find out the how this ring is removed using acetone, I've applied some but nothing seems to be undoing......however the glue under the gold ring (where the cocktail stick indicates has softened) which led me to stop before I make a faux pas!

Still wondering how it comes apart!

The OP's image clearly shows the rotor separate from the nylon rollers so it came aprt somehow.

--
Dave's clichés

To disassemble the motor you need to gently turn by holding the top delicate contact board and the lower black inner housing. The inner black housing is threaded and requires light amounts of acetone to be applied in order to loosen the lock tight. Be very careful no to get any acetone on the motor itself as it will damage beyond repair the piezo electric actuators that cause the ultrasonic vibration necessary for the motor to turn.

I do not recommend motor disassembly as it I much prefer to clean things with patience and some alcohol with small q tips and in turn finalize the cleaning with a polishing compound note that the compound must be light, liquid and designed for fine jewelry, aluminum and stainless steel metals. Brass compounds are not advisable.

Best!

--

https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/

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DAVID MANZE · Apr 23, 2018

Camillo said:
DAVID MANZE said:

Motor showing the springs applying a closing action to the stator and rotor.

Motor the other way up, compression springs uppermost. Cocktail stick pointing to what looks like a sealant/glue joints under the gold plated contact ring, (which seems to be softening).

To separate the stator and rotor there are what look to be two threaded possible places where the inner tube could be undone. The spring side according to the OP's image is the side to undo.

There are also three holes in the ring to undo.

I'm looking to find out the how this ring is removed using acetone, I've applied some but nothing seems to be undoing......however the glue under the gold ring (where the cocktail stick indicates has softened) which led me to stop before I make a faux pas!

Still wondering how it comes apart!

The OP's image clearly shows the rotor separate from the nylon rollers so it came aprt somehow.

--
Dave's clichés

Click to expand...

To disassemble the motor you need to gently turn by holding the top delicate contact board and the lower black inner housing. The inner black housing is threaded and requires light amounts of acetone to be applied in order to loosen the lock tight. Be very careful no to get any acetone on the motor itself as it will damage beyond repair the piezo electric actuators that cause the ultrasonic vibration necessary for the motor to turn.

I do not recommend motor disassembly as it I much prefer to clean things with patience and some alcohol with small q tips and in turn finalize the cleaning with a polishing compound note that the compound must be light, liquid and designed for fine jewelry, aluminum and stainless steel metals. Brass compounds are not advisable.

Best!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

The acetone idea just didn't work unfortunately, it dries in two or three seconds........frankly at this stage I'm losing hope...especially as there is another motor on it's way......this one felt awful before I started...really really stiff.......now it feels stiff and jerky, while chirruping!......

How are they supposed to feel when turning by hand, easy turned or not?....I haven't yet had the pleasure of trying a good one by hand. LOL.

So now I've abandoned disassembling the motor, maybe Nikon used another glue, anyway there's a foot of thread before all the glue is softened. I come from a background of mechanics and undoing bolts etc. is something I'm familiar with, I rarely fail!

Anyway I'll speak again later..thanks!

--
Dave's clichés

Camillo · Apr 23, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
Camillo said:

DAVID MANZE said:

Motor showing the springs applying a closing action to the stator and rotor.

Motor the other way up, compression springs uppermost. Cocktail stick pointing to what looks like a sealant/glue joints under the gold plated contact ring, (which seems to be softening).

To separate the stator and rotor there are what look to be two threaded possible places where the inner tube could be undone. The spring side according to the OP's image is the side to undo.

There are also three holes in the ring to undo.

I'm looking to find out the how this ring is removed using acetone, I've applied some but nothing seems to be undoing......however the glue under the gold ring (where the cocktail stick indicates has softened) which led me to stop before I make a faux pas!

Still wondering how it comes apart!

The OP's image clearly shows the rotor separate from the nylon rollers so it came aprt somehow.

--
Dave's clichés

Click to expand...

To disassemble the motor you need to gently turn by holding the top delicate contact board and the lower black inner housing. The inner black housing is threaded and requires light amounts of acetone to be applied in order to loosen the lock tight. Be very careful no to get any acetone on the motor itself as it will damage beyond repair the piezo electric actuators that cause the ultrasonic vibration necessary for the motor to turn.

I do not recommend motor disassembly as it I much prefer to clean things with patience and some alcohol with small q tips and in turn finalize the cleaning with a polishing compound note that the compound must be light, liquid and designed for fine jewelry, aluminum and stainless steel metals. Brass compounds are not advisable.

Best!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

Click to expand...

The acetone idea just didn't work unfortunately, it dries in two or three seconds........frankly at this stage I'm losing hope...especially as there is another motor on it's way......this one felt awful before I started...really really stiff.......now it feels stiff and jerky, while chirruping!......

How are they supposed to feel when turning by hand, easy turned or not?....I haven't yet had the pleasure of trying a good one by hand. LOL.

So now I've abandoned disassembling the motor, maybe Nikon used another glue, anyway there's a foot of thread before all the glue is softened. I come from a background of mechanics and undoing bolts etc. is something I'm familiar with, I rarely fail!

Anyway I'll speak again later..thanks!

--
Dave's clichés

Hi Dave the acetone works, try nail polish remover as it is a form of diluted acetone that does not dry up so quickly. Be patient it pays off in the end, just don´t rush it, remember Nikon takes a while before they return a lens and am sure even they have a hard time. Perhaps apply small drops to the threads at the top where the brush contacts go being careful not to get any on the contacts.

When a motor is in good shape even when turned by hand you may hear a squeal every other turn, it´s normal. That form of squeal is mechanical and not ultrasonic. The turn should be smooth but not loose when the motor is good, it should feel tight but smooth.

Hope this helps!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

DAVID MANZE · Apr 24, 2018

Camillo said:
DAVID MANZE said:

Camillo said:

DAVID MANZE said:

Motor showing the springs applying a closing action to the stator and rotor.

Motor the other way up, compression springs uppermost. Cocktail stick pointing to what looks like a sealant/glue joints under the gold plated contact ring, (which seems to be softening).

To separate the stator and rotor there are what look to be two threaded possible places where the inner tube could be undone. The spring side according to the OP's image is the side to undo.

There are also three holes in the ring to undo.

I'm looking to find out the how this ring is removed using acetone, I've applied some but nothing seems to be undoing......however the glue under the gold ring (where the cocktail stick indicates has softened) which led me to stop before I make a faux pas!

Still wondering how it comes apart!

The OP's image clearly shows the rotor separate from the nylon rollers so it came aprt somehow.

--
Dave's clichés

Click to expand...

To disassemble the motor you need to gently turn by holding the top delicate contact board and the lower black inner housing. The inner black housing is threaded and requires light amounts of acetone to be applied in order to loosen the lock tight. Be very careful no to get any acetone on the motor itself as it will damage beyond repair the piezo electric actuators that cause the ultrasonic vibration necessary for the motor to turn.

I do not recommend motor disassembly as it I much prefer to clean things with patience and some alcohol with small q tips and in turn finalize the cleaning with a polishing compound note that the compound must be light, liquid and designed for fine jewelry, aluminum and stainless steel metals. Brass compounds are not advisable.

Best!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

Click to expand...

The acetone idea just didn't work unfortunately, it dries in two or three seconds........frankly at this stage I'm losing hope...especially as there is another motor on it's way......this one felt awful before I started...really really stiff.......now it feels stiff and jerky, while chirruping!......

How are they supposed to feel when turning by hand, easy turned or not?....I haven't yet had the pleasure of trying a good one by hand. LOL.

So now I've abandoned disassembling the motor, maybe Nikon used another glue, anyway there's a foot of thread before all the glue is softened. I come from a background of mechanics and undoing bolts etc. is something I'm familiar with, I rarely fail!

Anyway I'll speak again later..thanks!

--
Dave's clichés

Click to expand...

Hi Dave the acetone works, try nail polish remover as it is a form of diluted acetone that does not dry up so quickly. Be patient it pays off in the end, just don´t rush it, remember Nikon takes a while before they return a lens and am sure even they have a hard time. Perhaps apply small drops to the threads at the top where the brush contacts go being careful not to get any on the contacts.

When a motor is in good shape even when turned by hand you may hear a squeal every other turn, it´s normal. That form of squeal is mechanical and not ultrasonic. The turn should be smooth but not loose when the motor is good, it should feel tight but smooth.

Hope this helps!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

Ok Camillo.... the acetone I'm using is what I would call cellulose thinners, what I used in the days of spraying cars with cellulose paint, maybe if I dilute it with white spirit 50/50...

Ah right, the motor is normally tight then, but it certainly isn't smooth, when you apply some alcohol it turns smoothly for about a minute till it's dry.

I'm looking out for some very liquid polish....thanks again!

--
Dave's clichés

Camillo · Apr 24, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
Camillo said:

DAVID MANZE said:

Camillo said:

DAVID MANZE said:

Motor showing the springs applying a closing action to the stator and rotor.

Motor the other way up, compression springs uppermost. Cocktail stick pointing to what looks like a sealant/glue joints under the gold plated contact ring, (which seems to be softening).

To separate the stator and rotor there are what look to be two threaded possible places where the inner tube could be undone. The spring side according to the OP's image is the side to undo.

There are also three holes in the ring to undo.

I'm looking to find out the how this ring is removed using acetone, I've applied some but nothing seems to be undoing......however the glue under the gold ring (where the cocktail stick indicates has softened) which led me to stop before I make a faux pas!

Still wondering how it comes apart!

The OP's image clearly shows the rotor separate from the nylon rollers so it came aprt somehow.

--
Dave's clichés

Click to expand...

To disassemble the motor you need to gently turn by holding the top delicate contact board and the lower black inner housing. The inner black housing is threaded and requires light amounts of acetone to be applied in order to loosen the lock tight. Be very careful no to get any acetone on the motor itself as it will damage beyond repair the piezo electric actuators that cause the ultrasonic vibration necessary for the motor to turn.

I do not recommend motor disassembly as it I much prefer to clean things with patience and some alcohol with small q tips and in turn finalize the cleaning with a polishing compound note that the compound must be light, liquid and designed for fine jewelry, aluminum and stainless steel metals. Brass compounds are not advisable.

Best!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

Click to expand...

The acetone idea just didn't work unfortunately, it dries in two or three seconds........frankly at this stage I'm losing hope...especially as there is another motor on it's way......this one felt awful before I started...really really stiff.......now it feels stiff and jerky, while chirruping!......

How are they supposed to feel when turning by hand, easy turned or not?....I haven't yet had the pleasure of trying a good one by hand. LOL.

So now I've abandoned disassembling the motor, maybe Nikon used another glue, anyway there's a foot of thread before all the glue is softened. I come from a background of mechanics and undoing bolts etc. is something I'm familiar with, I rarely fail!

Anyway I'll speak again later..thanks!

--
Dave's clichés

Click to expand...

Hi Dave the acetone works, try nail polish remover as it is a form of diluted acetone that does not dry up so quickly. Be patient it pays off in the end, just don´t rush it, remember Nikon takes a while before they return a lens and am sure even they have a hard time. Perhaps apply small drops to the threads at the top where the brush contacts go being careful not to get any on the contacts.

When a motor is in good shape even when turned by hand you may hear a squeal every other turn, it´s normal. That form of squeal is mechanical and not ultrasonic. The turn should be smooth but not loose when the motor is good, it should feel tight but smooth.

Hope this helps!

--
https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/
https://www.facebook.com/cappe.seeingisbelieving/

Click to expand...

Ok Camillo.... the acetone I'm using is what I would call cellulose thinners, what I used in the days of spraying cars with cellulose paint, maybe if I dilute it with white spirit 50/50...

Ah right, the motor is normally tight then, but it certainly isn't smooth, when you apply some alcohol it turns smoothly for about a minute till it's dry.

I'm looking out for some very liquid polish....thanks again!

--
Dave's clichés

Cool Dave, I would go with the nail polish remover since they are cheap ans has worked for me but if you know your chemistry then go ahead!. Yes a very liquid polishing compound is the key!

Best!

--

https://www.instagram.com/cappellettipictures/

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DAVID MANZE · May 8, 2018

The AF-C 28-70mm F2.8D arrived a few days ago....as advertised the focus only went one way to 3 mts and stopped.

I disassembled the lens to find someone had already been inside, one of the screws holding the lens barrel had a mashed head, it was obvious they'd had enough. I managed to cut a slot in the screw and took the lens lens to pieces.
The distance scale was suspect, it is support in the middle and one end....the rest is not so far from moving parts, a weak point if the lens is knocked.

The aperture system has to be studied to be understood, otherwise until it is replaced in the proper manner it will just sit there half open.

The net result is it works like new (or almost) with it's nice quiet shuffling sound, AF accuracy is fine........

....all in all a great buy for what was once a very expensive lens!

Next the AF-S 80-200mm F2.8D.....(quiet a bit more complicated).

Camillo · May 8, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
The AF-C 28-70mm F2.8D arrived a few days ago....as advertised the focus only went one way to 3 mts and stopped.

I disassembled the lens to find someone had already been inside, one of the screws holding the lens barrel had a mashed head, it was obvious they'd had enough. I managed to cut a slot in the screw and took the lens lens to pieces.
The distance scale was suspect, it is support in the middle and one end....the rest is not so far from moving parts, a weak point if the lens is knocked.

The aperture system has to be studied to be understood, otherwise until it is replaced in the proper manner it will just sit there half open.

The net result is it works like new (or almost) with it's nice quiet shuffling sound, AF accuracy is fine........

....all in all a great buy for what was once a very expensive lens!

Next the AF-S 80-200mm F2.8D.....(quiet a bit more complicated).

DAVID MANZE · May 8, 2018

Camillo said:
DAVID MANZE said:

The AF-C 28-70mm F2.8D arrived a few days ago....as advertised the focus only went one way to 3 mts and stopped.

I disassembled the lens to find someone had already been inside, one of the screws holding the lens barrel had a mashed head, it was obvious they'd had enough. I managed to cut a slot in the screw and took the lens lens to pieces.
The distance scale was suspect, it is support in the middle and one end....the rest is not so far from moving parts, a weak point if the lens is knocked.

The aperture system has to be studied to be understood, otherwise until it is replaced in the proper manner it will just sit there half open.

The net result is it works like new (or almost) with it's nice quiet shuffling sound, AF accuracy is fine........

....all in all a great buy for what was once a very expensive lens!

Next the AF-S 80-200mm F2.8D.....(quiet a bit more complicated).

Click to expand...

Camillo · May 8, 2018

DAVID MANZE said:
Camillo said:

DAVID MANZE said:

The AF-C 28-70mm F2.8D arrived a few days ago....as advertised the focus only went one way to 3 mts and stopped.

I disassembled the lens to find someone had already been inside, one of the screws holding the lens barrel had a mashed head, it was obvious they'd had enough. I managed to cut a slot in the screw and took the lens lens to pieces.
The distance scale was suspect, it is support in the middle and one end....the rest is not so far from moving parts, a weak point if the lens is knocked.

The aperture system has to be studied to be understood, otherwise until it is replaced in the proper manner it will just sit there half open.

The net result is it works like new (or almost) with it's nice quiet shuffling sound, AF accuracy is fine........

....all in all a great buy for what was once a very expensive lens!

Next the AF-S 80-200mm F2.8D.....(quiet a bit more complicated).

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Nikon 17-35 f/2.8 SWM disassembly

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