Dslr / mirrorless under 1000$ for family events and video

I can personally attest that I have used the FZ-1000 when digital-zoomed to 3200mm-EFL @ (an incredible) 1/100s.
Liar. The camera does NOT zoom beyond 400mm.
He's counting in-camera "digital zoom". The optical zoom doesn't go that far.

Even 400mm is a "35mm equivalent". The FZ-1000 has a 9.1-146mm f/2.8-4.0 zoom lens; it is only "like" 25-400mm (in field of view terms) after considering the size of the sensor.
I know. I don’t see how digital zoom would “count”. It’s 400mm equivalent. That’s it.
It counts because it gives you a "Straight-Out-Of-Camera" enlarged image, (and is a listed "feature" of the camera).

YES ... you can (often) do similar LATER in PP -- but that means more time/effort and the results SOOC can be better because the focus/exposure/WB is optimized for the specific "zoomed" image area.

EVERY photo I ever posted is directly off my SD card, (no PP what-so-ever), so much FASTER and more CONVENIENT, (and WiFi-able to others as the final image).
Sure, but it’s still just a cropped 400 equivalent. It’s not shooting at 3200mm. That’s my point. From a technical standpoint there is no practical difference in what happens with or without digital zoom. You didn’t shoot at 3200mm. You shot handheld 400mm equivalent (146 actual) and let the camera crop it. Just call it what it is and not inflate it to something it is not. If we’re going you’re route, then nothing stops me from claiming I shot 20,000mm or something insane after I cropped down to 2 pixels and upscaleed to 5mp. Claim the equivalence numbers, but the digital zoom doesn’t count for hand holding, IBIS capability or anything for that matter. It’s really just 400 @ 1/100.... IBIS didn’t let do 3200mm @ 1/100.
I agree. I don't like digital zoom either. When someone says zoom, either it is "zoom with feet" or "optical zoom" for me.
And I never said I liked it for "image-IQ" purposes.

It is simply a "FUN" feature that DOES HAVE SOME VALUE, (in my case a LOT of value because I can see/IMAGE things that I can't see with human eye).

What would it cost me to BUY a 83X "telescope" to carry with me at ALL times ??? (hey ... I just got one for FREE)
 
I can personally attest that I have used the FZ-1000 when digital-zoomed to 3200mm-EFL @ (an incredible) 1/100s.
Liar. The camera does NOT zoom beyond 400mm.
He's counting in-camera "digital zoom". The optical zoom doesn't go that far.

Even 400mm is a "35mm equivalent". The FZ-1000 has a 9.1-146mm f/2.8-4.0 zoom lens; it is only "like" 25-400mm (in field of view terms) after considering the size of the sensor.
I know. I don’t see how digital zoom would “count”. It’s 400mm equivalent. That’s it.
It counts because it gives you a "Straight-Out-Of-Camera" enlarged image, (and is a listed "feature" of the camera).
It is a marketing ploy to get uninformed people to buy the camera. It is also utterly useless given its image quality. Unless you want to spy on someone.
YES ... you can (often) do similar LATER in PP -- but that means more time/effort and the results SOOC can be better because the focus/exposure/WB is optimized for the specific "zoomed" image area.
SOOC is only important to old school photographers who are afraid of post processing. Why would you allow your camera's algorithm to process the photo it thinks it is best. Why not do it yourself?
EVERY photo I ever posted is directly off my SD card, (no PP what-so-ever), so much FASTER and more CONVENIENT, (and WiFi-able to others as the final image).
Your concept of SOOC is a very outdated notion that no modern photographer supports.

Are you saying you cannot SOOC a photo
 
I can personally attest that I have used the FZ-1000 when digital-zoomed to 3200mm-EFL @ (an incredible) 1/100s.
Liar. The camera does NOT zoom beyond 400mm.
He's counting in-camera "digital zoom". The optical zoom doesn't go that far.

Even 400mm is a "35mm equivalent". The FZ-1000 has a 9.1-146mm f/2.8-4.0 zoom lens; it is only "like" 25-400mm (in field of view terms) after considering the size of the sensor.
I know. I don’t see how digital zoom would “count”. It’s 400mm equivalent. That’s it.
It counts because it gives you a "Straight-Out-Of-Camera" enlarged image, (and is a listed "feature" of the camera).
It is a marketing ploy to get uninformed people to buy the camera.
I have 55+yrs experience from 8mm to 4"x5", and taught/conducted photo-workshops, and have over $25,000 worth of gear. I would not say I an un-informed.
It is also utterly useless given its image quality.
It is less quality than FF or 20mpx. But sufficient for 24"x36" posters.
Unless you want to spy on someone.
Well ... THAT too ... :)
YES ... you can (often) do similar LATER in PP -- but that means more time/effort and the results SOOC can be better because the focus/exposure/WB is optimized for the specific "zoomed" image area.
SOOC is only important to old school photographers who are afraid of post processing. Why would you allow your camera's algorithm to process the photo it thinks it is best. Why not do it yourself?
Because with its ("zebra") east of ETTR, (and HDR), I simply don't NEED to PP. All the photos I posted are SOOC.
EVERY photo I ever posted is directly off my SD card, (no PP what-so-ever), so much FASTER and more CONVENIENT, (and WiFi-able to others as the final image).
Your concept of SOOC is a very outdated notion that no modern photographer supports.
I am sorry if you NEED to PP.
Are you saying you cannot SOOC a photo
Evidently you are saying you can't.

I do SOOC.
 
canon 80d should be good for video of what you mentioned

if you want 4k you might consider the panasonic g85 which would fit in your budget.
Hi Tim, yes I really loved the canon 80d but it's way off my budget. Wish it had 4k.

I checked out few reviews of panasonic G85 after your post. Two things that worry me most are 16MP (compared to typical 24MP cameras now) and not being able to shoot at ISO 100.
How large would you print your image? 16Mp is good for many general use. Of course, if you cropped a lot (not have the right lens), you might face the limitation of the smaller resolution. For a M43 16Mp image (the sensor used by G85), it is 4592 x 3448. If you print it at 300dpi, you can have a print of 15.3" (38.8cm) x 11.49" (29.18cm).

IIRC G85 can has extended ISO of 100 as well. However, I don't find any special issue to have ISO200 the base ISO. Of course, as a smaller sensor, under the same generation of sensor technology an APS sensor should always have a 1 stop benefit over M43. And it is also better to have max exposure for the best performance of a smaller sensor.

In case if video be important to you, better look for the cameras that are good at CDAF, or using on sensor PDAF like Sony, Olympus EM1-II and Dual pixel AF of Canon. Camera good at PDAF might not be great on video which use CDAF.

If you will run and shoot video, IBIS would also help a lot without a gimbal. In terms of IBIS, Olympus should be the best but unfortunately video is not its stronghold. The latest stabilization of Panasonic (Dual IS, a combination of IBIS and lens OIS) can also give quite good result. If you would shoot video on tripod, likely the stabilisation could be forgotten.

In terms of 4K, Sony and Panasonic should be the leader whereas certain Sony might have overheating issue.

--
Albert
 
Last edited:
Hi, I need to purchase a new camera. But I'm unable to choose the right one. Sorry for the long post.

Earlier, I had Sony A58 dslr, which I used it for almost 2 years, but I've sold it off since it restricted me on a lot of things and lense availability was bad here.

My main usage is for family events, portraits, travel photography( family trips).
In addition to that, we shot few short films using a rented canon 700d & nikon d5300 and the quality was decent. So we need our new camera to do something better than these.

My prerequisites on this camera would be:
1. Vari angle flip screen (to record for YouTube)
2. Touchscreen, since it felt easy for other ppl in our family who didn't have experience with a dslr.
3. ‎Internal mic jack
4. Good lense availability (usually we can easily rent canon /nikon lenses in our city due to large scale availability).
5. ‎Wi-fi
6. ‎Optionally, 4k video capability, if it's possible in this budget.

My budget is < $1000.

I have figured few options which come in this range, like Nikon D5600, Canon 800D, Nikon D7200 (sacrificing touch screen and flip screen, but it's great), Sony A6300 (not many lense options though and heard it has rolling shutter probs).

Also, cannot prefer a used one.

So let me know if i have a good option for this budget based on those prerequisites. Also, is it good to buy now or do i need to wait few months for new cameras to get released?
Camera manufacturers try to put out cameras with features that they think that the public wants at a given price point. That is why there is always trade offs.

Nikon in terms of image quality offers a better camera. But their camera bodies and lenses comes out at slightly higher price than Canon.

When it comes to video you should know that 4K only has its advantages if you have or a 4k monitor or you edit your videos. Viewing a 4K video on a 1080p monitior will have no effect. There are benefits if you downscale your videos from 4K to 1080. There are people who say that you are future proofing your videos. 1080p is the standard format of our time. It is far superior to the video quality from 20 years ago. Everybody is different, but for me there is something nostalgic when viewing family videos from 20 years ago in the poorer format. It goes with the time. In 10, 20 years time this same feeling of nostalgia will be with me, when I view video of my kids in 1080p, than it would not be if I had viewed them in 4K.

When it comes to video Nikon has better quality, but Canon has the best auto focusing system for video around. What is more important to you? If you are interested in Canon you should consider the 200D. It is the smallest DSLR out there and very user friendly. It also comes in way under your budget.

If you are willing to edit your videos then the Papasonic GH5 is a good alternative. But it has a smaller sensor, thus, the stills will be slightly poorer and the autofocus will not be as good as the canon 200D/SL2
 
canon 80d should be good for video of what you mentioned

if you want 4k you might consider the panasonic g85 which would fit in your budget.
Hi Tim, yes I really loved the canon 80d but it's way off my budget. Wish it had 4k.

I checked out few reviews of panasonic G85 after your post. Two things that worry me most are 16MP (compared to typical 24MP cameras now) and not being able to shoot at ISO 100.
I'd also worry about the lens (selection, cost) which could be more important

www.flickr.com/photos/mmirrorless
 
How large would you print your image? 16Mp is good for many general use. Of course, if you cropped a lot (not have the right lens), you might face the limitation of the smaller resolution. For a M43 16Mp image (the sensor used by G85), it is 4592 x 3448. If you print it at 300dpi, you can have a print of 15.3" (38.8cm) x 11.49" (29.18cm).
Hi Albert, of course 16MP might be decent now, but 4 to 5 years from now, it would be pretty outdated. Moreover, if we need to crop, not always but sometimes, I feel it's better with 24MP. I haven't tried any 16MP camera yet.

IIRC G85 can has extended ISO of 100 as well. However, I don't find any special issue to have ISO200 the base ISO. Of course, as a smaller sensor, under the same generation of sensor technology an APS sensor should always have a 1 stop benefit over M43. And it is also better to have max exposure for the best performance of a smaller sensor.

In case if video be important to you, better look for the cameras that are good at CDAF, or using on sensor PDAF like Sony, Olympus EM1-II and Dual pixel AF of Canon. Camera good at PDAF might not be great on video which use CDAF.
Thanks for the good info.
If you will run and shoot video, IBIS would also help a lot without a gimbal. In terms of IBIS, Olympus should be the best but unfortunately video is not its stronghold. The latest stabilization of Panasonic (Dual IS, a combination of IBIS and lens OIS) can also give quite good result. If you would shoot video on tripod, likely the stabilisation could be forgotten.

In terms of 4K, Sony and Panasonic should be the leader whereas certain Sony might have overheating issue.
 
canon 80d should be good for video of what you mentioned

if you want 4k you might consider the panasonic g85 which would fit in your budget.
Hi Tim, yes I really loved the canon 80d but it's way off my budget. Wish it had 4k.

I checked out few reviews of panasonic G85 after your post. Two things that worry me most are 16MP (compared to typical 24MP cameras now) and not being able to shoot at ISO 100.
I'd also worry about the lens (selection, cost) which could be more important

www.flickr.com/photos/mmirrorless
Hi beagle1, you are right. Most stores here, both offline and online, have Canon and Nikon lenses. Sony E mounts are now slowly coming up in stores, but still not there yet.

But availability of lenses for panasonic / fuji is very rare here.
 
canon 80d should be good for video of what you mentioned

if you want 4k you might consider the panasonic g85 which would fit in your budget.
Hi Tim, yes I really loved the canon 80d but it's way off my budget. Wish it had 4k.

I checked out few reviews of panasonic G85 after your post. Two things that worry me most are 16MP (compared to typical 24MP cameras now) and not being able to shoot at ISO 100.
Those would worry me too.
 
That moon shot would be very good if the image quality wasn't so bad. It really is too noisy and too blurry.

The people on the steps are also just smudges.

From the examples that you keep showing, I would not accept an FZ-1000 as a gift. Yours is ruining what would otherwise be good photos.
 
NOT TRUE ... you are TOTALLY WRONG ...
I don't think so.
The images have the same "perspective", (and distance-compression), as if I had a REAL 3200mm on FF. (and that is the main thing that matters)

If you cropped a segment (ala 3200mm-equivalent) from a 400mm, it would still have the same perspective/distance-compression as the original 400mm.
Please explain how that could possibly be true technically. Really, I'd LOVE to hear it. Seems pretty impossible to me. How is it different in camera besides exposure, wb and focus? I don't care if it's SOOC. How is it different and how does that mean you "shot at 3200mm" when really you just in camera cropped from 400 equivalent? Details and technical reasons please. No new photos needed.
And I repeat that the focus/exposure/WB can be optimized for the zoomed area.
Okay, cause we all get sharp shot when digitally zoomed 3200mm. Oh wait, we cant.
 
That moon shot would be very good if the image quality wasn't so bad. It really is too noisy and too blurry.

The people on the steps are also just smudges.

From the examples that you keep showing, I would not accept an FZ-1000 as a gift. Yours is ruining what would otherwise be good photos.
EXACTLY. I can't believe how bad many of them look. I actually had to google and hunt down some other examples. The FZ is far from the cleanest IQ, but he keeps making it 100x worse with digital zooming. It's not as bad as it looks, but its no where near m43 or apsc either.
 
I can personally attest that I have used the FZ-1000 when digital-zoomed to 3200mm-EFL @ (an incredible) 1/100s.
Liar. The camera does NOT zoom beyond 400mm.
He's counting in-camera "digital zoom". The optical zoom doesn't go that far.

Even 400mm is a "35mm equivalent". The FZ-1000 has a 9.1-146mm f/2.8-4.0 zoom lens; it is only "like" 25-400mm (in field of view terms) after considering the size of the sensor.
I know. I don’t see how digital zoom would “count”. It’s 400mm equivalent. That’s it.
It counts because it gives you a "Straight-Out-Of-Camera" enlarged image, (and is a listed "feature" of the camera).
It is a marketing ploy to get uninformed people to buy the camera.
I have 55+yrs experience from 8mm to 4"x5", and taught/conducted photo-workshops, and have over $25,000 worth of gear. I would not say I an un-informed.
Anyone who thinks you can get good quality photo using the digital zoom is uniformed, because you cannot
It is also utterly useless given its image quality.
It is less quality than FF or 20mpx. But sufficient for 24"x36" posters.
I was talking about the images from the digital zoom, not from the normal zoom
Unless you want to spy on someone.
Well ... THAT too ... :)
YES ... you can (often) do similar LATER in PP -- but that means more time/effort and the results SOOC can be better because the focus/exposure/WB is optimized for the specific "zoomed" image area.
SOOC is only important to old school photographers who are afraid of post processing. Why would you allow your camera's algorithm to process the photo it thinks it is best. Why not do it yourself?
Because with its ("zebra") east of ETTR, (and HDR), I simply don't NEED to PP. All the photos I posted are SOOC.
So you shoot Jpegs, not raw. Another mistake.
EVERY photo I ever posted is directly off my SD card, (no PP what-so-ever), so much FASTER and more CONVENIENT, (and WiFi-able to others as the final image).
Your concept of SOOC is a very outdated notion that no modern photographer supports.
I am sorry if you NEED to PP.
Youshould. Image quality wise there are photos from the fz1000 that are way better than the photos you have posted.
Are you saying you cannot SOOC a photo
Sorry, I meant to say you cannot PP a photo.
Evidently you are saying you can't.

I do SOOC.
In the digital age SOOC is foolish. Even with film people would alter photos in the darkroom to make the photos more artistic. Can you sooc local adjustments. Can you sooc dodging and burning. Can you sooc on increase in exposure in one part of the image while simultaneously darkening another (I am not talking about dodging and burning). Can you sooc warm tones in one part of the image while simultaneously applying cool tones to another?
 
canon 80d should be good for video of what you mentioned

if you want 4k you might consider the panasonic g85 which would fit in your budget.
Hi Tim, yes I really loved the canon 80d but it's way off my budget. Wish it had 4k.

I checked out few reviews of panasonic G85 after your post. Two things that worry me most are 16MP (compared to typical 24MP cameras now) and not being able to shoot at ISO 100.
Those would worry me too.
I switched from apsc to m4/3 a few years ago, and they haven't bothered me at all.

The difference in the mps count amounts to around 20% linearly, and you'd be hard pushed to find cases when that was critical. Remember, too, that most images are displayed at resolutions far lower than either.

Same with iso100, you should be thinking about how often that would make a difference, and just what that difference would be.

Obviously, lens availability in India is an issue, but that apart a Panasonic G80/85 seems to me to tick your boxes.

Dave
 
Both the FZ-1000 and now the 2000/2500 have some "unique" features, like (selectable) built-in ND and 4K-video features, (and "LEAF" shutter w/ 1/4000s for longer-range SUN-light fill-flash and ability to "darken" backgrounds w/ closer subjects).
I'd like to second this and really highlight how useful a built-in ND filter can be. My FDR-AX100 camcorder has it and its indispensable for shooting video on bright days. The ND lets me keep the iris open, keep the shutter speeds down and keep the level of light within the dynamic range of my camcorder's sensor.

Leaf shutter is cool, but nothing an HSS flash can't fix with a focal plane shutter. Speaking of flash OP, what ever you buy invest in a flash.
 
Canon SL2/200D. Everything you ask, except for 4k.
 
Both the FZ-1000 and now the 2000/2500 have some "unique" features, like (selectable) built-in ND and 4K-video features, (and "LEAF" shutter w/ 1/4000s for longer-range SUN-light fill-flash and ability to "darken" backgrounds w/ closer subjects).
I'd like to second this and really highlight how useful a built-in ND filter can be. My FDR-AX100 camcorder has it and its indispensable for shooting video on bright days. The ND lets me keep the iris open, keep the shutter speeds down and keep the level of light within the dynamic range of my camcorder's sensor.
I agree - built in ND filter is awesome, too bad the FZ1000 doesn't have one.
Leaf shutter is cool, but nothing an HSS flash can't fix with a focal plane shutter. Speaking of flash OP, what ever you buy invest in a flash.
You've done it now. :-) Prepare to for about 1000 junk yard photos (and one flower) showing how leaf shutters are a million times better and that HSS and FP shutters are worthless. Of course, those of us who use HSS as intended know that HSS seems to work fine for us, but that won't stop the onslaught you've summoned.
 
Both the FZ-1000 and now the 2000/2500 have some "unique" features, like (selectable) built-in ND and 4K-video features, (and "LEAF" shutter w/ 1/4000s for longer-range SUN-light fill-flash and ability to "darken" backgrounds w/ closer subjects).
I'd like to second this and really highlight how useful a built-in ND filter can be. My FDR-AX100 camcorder has it and its indispensable for shooting video on bright days. The ND lets me keep the iris open, keep the shutter speeds down and keep the level of light within the dynamic range of my camcorder's sensor.
I agree - built in ND filter is awesome, too bad the FZ1000 doesn't have one.
Didn't know the 1000 lacked it; the 2500 does have it though. I just had to highlight that a built-in ND is awesome. My favorite feature of my AX100 is the built-in ND filter set.
Leaf shutter is cool, but nothing an HSS flash can't fix with a focal plane shutter. Speaking of flash OP, what ever you buy invest in a flash.
You've done it now. :-) Prepare to for about 1000 junk yard photos (and one flower) showing how leaf shutters are a million times better and that HSS and FP shutters are worthless. Of course, those of us who use HSS as intended know that HSS seems to work fine for us, but that won't stop the onslaught you've summoned.
Lol. I don't see any significant benefit of a leaf shutter for stills. I've shot the FZ1000, its a fine camera, but I didn't notice its was any better at fill flash than my Canon DSLRs with HSS fill flash.
 
I can personally attest that I have used the FZ-1000 when digital-zoomed to 3200mm-EFL @ (an incredible) 1/100s.
Liar. The camera does NOT zoom beyond 400mm.
He's counting in-camera "digital zoom". The optical zoom doesn't go that far.

Even 400mm is a "35mm equivalent". The FZ-1000 has a 9.1-146mm f/2.8-4.0 zoom lens; it is only "like" 25-400mm (in field of view terms) after considering the size of the sensor.
I know. I don’t see how digital zoom would “count”. It’s 400mm equivalent. That’s it.
It counts because it gives you a "Straight-Out-Of-Camera" enlarged image, (and is a listed "feature" of the camera).
It is a marketing ploy to get uninformed people to buy the camera.
I have 55+yrs experience from 8mm to 4"x5", and taught/conducted photo-workshops, and have over $25,000 worth of gear. I would not say I an un-informed.
Anyone who thinks you can get good quality photo using the digital zoom is uniformed, because you cannot
I have NEVER stated you can get "quality" digital-zoom images. And I have agreed that the 3200mm-EFL is only 3.12Kpx of actual data, (albeit in-camera interpolated back up to 5mpx).

But exactly the same could be said for 8X "crops" from any image.

The DIFFERENCE, (and advantage of in-camera), is that at least the in-camera cropping allows the camera to optimize its focus/exposure/WB on the "zoomed" image, (whereas a 8X PP image could have been focus & exposed/WB for some other portion of the image).
It is also utterly useless given its image quality.
It is less quality than FF or 20mpx. But sufficient for 24"x36" posters.
I was talking about the images from the digital zoom, not from the normal zoom
With only one exception, (Capitol/Moon), image, I have never sold a digital-zoomed image.

I have REPEATEDLY stated it's value is mostly "FUN" because it does allows you to view/SEE (& image), things you CAN'T SEE WITH YOUR NAKED EYE.

It simply is like having a (80X) TELESCOPE with you at all times. (that can indeed record a LOW QUALITY image if desired)
Unless you want to spy on someone.
Well ... THAT too ... :)
YES ... you can (often) do similar LATER in PP -- but that means more time/effort and the results SOOC can be better because the focus/exposure/WB is optimized for the specific "zoomed" image area.
SOOC is only important to old school photographers who are afraid of post processing. Why would you allow your camera's algorithm to process the photo it thinks it is best. Why not do it yourself?
Because with its ("zebra") east of ETTR, (and HDR), I simply don't NEED to PP. All the photos I posted are SOOC.
So you shoot Jpegs, not raw. Another mistake.
I often shoot Jpeg+RAW, so I have both.
EVERY photo I ever posted is directly off my SD card, (no PP what-so-ever), so much FASTER and more CONVENIENT, (and WiFi-able to others as the final image).
Your concept of SOOC is a very outdated notion that no modern photographer supports.
I am sorry if you NEED to PP.
Youshould. Image quality wise there are photos from the fz1000 that are way better than the photos you have posted.
Are you saying you cannot SOOC a photo
Sorry, I meant to say you cannot PP a photo.
Evidently you are saying you can't.

I do SOOC.
In the digital age SOOC is foolish. Even with film people would alter photos in the darkroom to make the photos more artistic. Can you sooc local adjustments. Can you sooc dodging and burning. Can you sooc on increase in exposure in one part of the image while simultaneously darkening another (I am not talking about dodging and burning). Can you sooc warm tones in one part of the image while simultaneously applying cool tones to another?
I am NOT saying PP has no (sometimes essential) value ...

I am simply saying that w/ "zebras" and HDR, I have usually not needed to.

AND when discussing "cameras" in the "BEGINNERS" forum, I show them ONLY my SOOC images because that is the ONLY thing that is truly representative of the "CAMERA" ....

Otherwise you are only showing-off your PP skills.

Virtually any image can be improved (faked) in PP, but a "beginner", (who is asking about a "camera"), may NOT be able to achieve the same.
 
That moon shot would be very good if the image quality wasn't so bad. It really is too noisy and too blurry.

The people on the steps are also just smudges.

From the examples that you keep showing, I would not accept an FZ-1000 as a gift. Yours is ruining what would otherwise be good photos.
I answered below that I have NEVER suggested the 3200mm-EFL is a good/sellable image. They are BAD, (very TERRIBLE in fact). They are only 3.12Kpx (not Mpx) of actual data.

There is (normal) atmospherics at 6.5 MILES, (in humid Hawaiian air).

And I honestly think the (newer) Nikon P-900 would now be better (w/ 2000mm-EFL OPTICAL-zoom instead of "digital") -- albeit it only has a 1/2.3" sensor.

I have repeatedly stated that it's "FUN" value is simply that I can carry a (80X) TELESCOPE that enables me to "see", (and image), things I could NOT see with my eye.

BUT ... my POINT is that many have stated they can do the same-thing w/ PP-"cropping".

I suggest that "in-camera" has an advantage because the focus/exposure/WB is optimized for the zoomed area.

As for the Capitol/Moon shot ... I can attest that it indeed looks VERY GOOD @ 24"x36". I have sold MANY of them. Is it "excellent" and or could have been better from FF (w/ true 800mm lens), ABSOLUTELY ...

But this was from a (TOTAL) $700 camera/LENS .... CAN YOU MATCH THAT ???
 
Last edited:

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top