Macro adapter?

I have an xe3 with a 23mm f2, 56mm f1.2 and 90mm f2 lens. I’d like to try my hand at macro without spending much money. I’m confused on what adapter I can use and how it works. Can someone enlighten me on the options? Thanks so much.
http://extreme-macro.co.uk/raynox-adapter-techniques/

For instance -

90mm + R150 Mag 0.72:1, Work distance approx 20cm.

90mm +R250 Mag 1.06:1, Work distance approx 12.5cm

200mm + R150 Mag 1.31:1, Work distance approx 20cm

200mm + R250 Mag 2.07:1, Work distance approx 12.5cm
FWIW, those values are approximate.
 
I have an xe3 with a 23mm f2, 56mm f1.2 and 90mm f2 lens. I’d like to try my hand at macro without spending much money. I’m confused on what adapter I can use and how it works. Can someone enlighten me on the options? Thanks so much.
http://extreme-macro.co.uk/raynox-adapter-techniques/

For instance -

90mm + R150 Mag 0.72:1, Work distance approx 20cm.

90mm +R250 Mag 1.06:1, Work distance approx 12.5cm

200mm + R150 Mag 1.31:1, Work distance approx 20cm

200mm + R250 Mag 2.07:1, Work distance approx 12.5cm
FWIW, those values are approximate.
 
3 options:

Extension tube.

Closeup filter.

Adapted manual focus lens.
My vote is also on the adapted MF lens, it will give a lot more flexibility.

Since I got my first one, I never used the Fuji extension tubes again.

Shooting moving bugs or flowers in the wind will require a learning curve though, but then again, with AF these situations also have a lot of misses.

Another affordable MF-lens not yet mentioned is the Volna-9, combine it with a helicoid M42-adapter and you can get really close when you wish to do so.
Agreed. I'm not sure what the budget its, but an old Nikon 55 or Tamron 90 with an adapter can't be all that expensive and you'll have something you can keep using even if you buy a Fuji macro later:

 
I notice I omitted to explain why I do not use the extension rings anymore.

With the extensions mounted, the camera has a very limited range of focussing distance (only very close) So when after shooting the flower / bug / ... I want to shoot a scenic, I have to remove the lens, remove the ring, and put the lens back.

A lens with macro capabilities does not have this disadvantage, it can go both to infinity and verfy close focus. If the mount adapter has an internal helicoid too, you will have a built in, adjustable, extension tube.

Example in M42:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M42-FX-Pix...667168?hash=item1a3dd742a0:g:k10AAOSwr8xZ5bw6

This can turn any M42-lens into a macro-lens on your Fuji, while retaining the normal shooting possibilities too.

Available in other mounts as well.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for this thorough review! This is very helpful.
 
I notice I omitted to explain why I do not use the extension rings anymore.

With the extensions mounted, the camera has a very limited range of focussing distance (only very close) So when after shooting the flower / bug / ... I want to shoot a scenic, I have to remove the lens, remove the ring, and put the lens back.

A lens with macro capabilities does not have this disadvantage, it can go both to infinity and verfy close focus. If the mount adapter has an internal helicoid too, you will have a built in, adjustable, extension tube.

Example in M42:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M42-FX-Pix...667168?hash=item1a3dd742a0:g:k10AAOSwr8xZ5bw6

This can turn any M42-lens into a macro-lens on your Fuji, while retaining the normal shooting possibilities too.

Available in other mounts as well.
That's a cool adapter. Thanks for sharing.
 
Hi Brian,

Thank you. I think I recall seeing you post this table some time ago. It gave the very useful magnifications with the lens focused at infinity which the Fuji site tables don't supply. It's useful to know the range of application of accessories as much as the highest magnification.

If you were to check out Fuji's new additional entry in their site table, you'll see that the new 80mm has a very short WD (98mm) at 1:1. It's shorter than the 60mm on both tubes and shorter than conventional macro lenses that focus by extension.

Regards, Rod
 
Hi,

... Their advantage over tubes is that they don't rob you of any light, so they maintain shutter speeds better than tubes....
Very good write-up. One small point. Close-up lenses do "rob you of light".
Remember, they spread out the light so it's "thinner".
Effective aperture is affected by (1 + m) where m is magnification and it doesn't matter how that magnification was achieved.
Close-up lenses don't narrow the effective aperture like extension tubes do. At the same magnification and f-stop, the image will be brighter (and the DOF shallower) when using close-up lenses rather than extension tubes.

Having said that, this isn't really an advantage as the light is basically the same when DOF is equalised. Using a close-up lens rather than extension tubes just means needing to stop down to a narrower aperture to get the same result.
 
I have an xe3 with a 23mm f2, 56mm f1.2 and 90mm f2 lens. I’d like to try my hand at macro without spending much money. I’m confused on what adapter I can use and how it works. Can someone enlighten me on the options? Thanks so much.
http://extreme-macro.co.uk/raynox-adapter-techniques/

For instance -

90mm + R150 Mag 0.72:1, Work distance approx 20cm.

90mm +R250 Mag 1.06:1, Work distance approx 12.5cm

200mm + R150 Mag 1.31:1, Work distance approx 20cm

200mm + R250 Mag 2.07:1, Work distance approx 12.5cm
FWIW, those values are approximate.
Yes - just enough to give the OP an idea of what their choice of lens + Raynox or whatever will do.
Yeah, agreed, just didn't want anyone misled by the precision :-)
 
Vic

with the 90mm and the 2 raynox what about vignette?
 
Vic

With my 18-135mm I get no vignetting (or neraly easy to correct) atb 135mm But below it is rapidly serious..

I don't know if it is mainlybrelated to FL or zoom lens design...
 
Vic

Thx to your reply I had the idea to test R150 and 250 with the 55-200mm

Oh surprise!!!! no vignetting AT ALL at any FL length, which answers my question vignette here is related to ZOOm lens design

Now the 55-200mm plus the 2 Raynox are the swiss knife for macro in the pocket I mean with a light portable gear anywhere

That sound great

More over at 200mm with the 250mm I capture 1.5 cm width which means a 2.37/1.5 ratio = 1.58

i thinj the 18-135mm will rejointhe shelve for my next trek replaced by the 1-55 55-200 pair..

great news
 
Last but not least i added the EF-42 flash which guives a poerfect TTL light at 200mm+R250 at f16, sample below

Great really

Because I had quickly a vignette with my trekkin lens 18-135mm I never tried wit 55-200 your post pushed me from lazyness..

:-)



48555cb7ba6548f8bd25e3d3840f311c.jpg

the ruler taken at 200mm minimal dstance allowed R250 ratio 1.58 no width grop just taken the center of the height, handheld of course...

Since ni vignette appeared in the 55 200mm interval this lens with either 150 or 250 allows a great flexibility for macro framing

Adding the cobra allows increasing DOF

I just need now a Godox 685 for HSS outside

These findings really push my macro shooting perspective while trekking



:-) :-)

--
Good judgment comes from experience
Experience comes from bad judgment
 
Last but not least i added the EF-42 flash which guives a poerfect TTL light at 200mm+R250 at f16, sample below

Great really

Because I had quickly a vignette with my trekkin lens 18-135mm I never tried wit 55-200 your post pushed me from lazyness..

:-)

48555cb7ba6548f8bd25e3d3840f311c.jpg

the ruler taken at 200mm minimal dstance allowed R250 ratio 1.58 no width grop just taken the center of the height, handheld of course...

Since ni vignette appeared in the 55 200mm interval this lens with either 150 or 250 allows a great flexibility for macro framing

Adding the cobra allows increasing DOF

I just need now a Godox 685 for HSS outside

These findings really push my macro shooting perspective while trekking

:-) :-)

--
Good judgment comes from experience
Experience comes from bad judgment
Thanks very much for your tests Bob. Sounds like a no brainer for the 55-200mm so I shall get the 2 Raynox for my lenses too.

Vic

--
The sky is full of holes that let the rain get in, the holes are very small - that's why the rain is thin.
Spike Milligan. Writer, comedian, poet, Goon. 1918 - 2002
 
Thank you all for your help! I got the Raynox 250 and am struggling to figure out how to use it. (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/275182-REG/Raynox_DCR_250_DCR_250_2_5x_Super_Macro.html)

Can any of you help? I got it fitted on the camera, on the 90mm lens, but it's just not focusing - neither auto nor manual. I read the guide that came with the adapter and it's not helpful, and neither is my XE3 manual.

I am probably missing something very obvious like not fixing a camera setting, standing too close, etc. BUT I AM STUMPED!!!

Can anyone advise me?
 
I guess you have the universal plastic adapter ?

I get no problem with either 150 or 250 fitted with the adapter on the 55-200mm with which I can use all FL from 55 to 200mm

Have a filter ?

Have tried it on another lens ?
 
Thank you all for your help! I got the Raynox 250 and am struggling to figure out how to use it. (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/275182-REG/Raynox_DCR_250_DCR_250_2_5x_Super_Macro.html)

Can any of you help? I got it fitted on the camera, on the 90mm lens, but it's just not focusing - neither auto nor manual. I read the guide that came with the adapter and it's not helpful, and neither is my XE3 manual.
You're probably too far from the subject - you lose infinity focus when using a close-up lens.

Try setting it to manual focus then move the camera closer to the subject until it comes in to focus. You can then adjust the focus to see what range of focus distance it gives you.
 
I guess you have the universal plastic adapter ?
Yes
I get no problem with either 150 or 250 fitted with the adapter on the 55-200mm with which I can use all FL from 55 to 200mm

Have a filter ?
Yes
Have tried it on another lens ?
No, not yet, good idea.

How close should I be getting to the subject?
--
Good judgment comes from experience
Experience comes from bad judgment
 
with the 90mm does the focus is purely internal or does the front element moves ?

If so the adapter or the Raynox itself blocks the front element

Try on another lens watch the front element of the 90mm when focusing and report to go further
 

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