Starting to do more sports photography and missing pictures.

billd203

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Just started to get back into sports photography. Been taking pictures of skateboarding and tonight did a dog frisbee event. I have a 10 year old Sony A200 and my zoom is a Minolta 100-300 f4.5. I find that I really have to work and try to anticipate shots and pray that I get something. I think I took 700 shots tonight and I am very disappointed in the overall results. Most of the pictures are out of focus. I find the camera set up very slow. Is it the lens, the camera, or me that is holding me back? Should I get a better lens for the Sony, or move on to a newer system. I don't have a lot invested in the Sony so it doesn't owe me anything.
 
Just started to get back into sports photography. Been taking pictures of skateboarding and tonight did a dog frisbee event. I have a 10 year old Sony A200 and my zoom is a Minolta 100-300 f4.5. I find that I really have to work and try to anticipate shots and pray that I get something. I think I took 700 shots tonight and I am very disappointed in the overall results. Most of the pictures are out of focus. I find the camera set up very slow. Is it the lens, the camera, or me that is holding me back? Should I get a better lens for the Sony, or move on to a newer system. I don't have a lot invested in the Sony so it doesn't owe me anything.
You may need to move to a newer body with better AF and higher iso capabilities, so you can use faster shutter speeds, but its probably practice that in good light that will give you the most benefit, I have removed earlier remarks thinking you had a early mirrorless body, is your zoom AF? a good replacement would be a Nikon D7200 plus 70-300 for your present kit.

--
Mike.
"I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit, it's the only way to be sure."
 
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Just started to get back into sports photography. Been taking pictures of skateboarding and tonight did a dog frisbee event. I have a 10 year old Sony A200 and my zoom is a Minolta 100-300 f4.5. I find that I really have to work and try to anticipate shots and pray that I get something. I think I took 700 shots tonight and I am very disappointed in the overall results. Most of the pictures are out of focus. I find the camera set up very slow. Is it the lens, the camera, or me that is holding me back? Should I get a better lens for the Sony, or move on to a newer system. I don't have a lot invested in the Sony so it doesn't owe me anything.
You may need to move to a newer body with better AF and higher iso capabilities, so you can use faster shutter speeds, but its probably practice that in good light that will give you the most benefit, I have removed earlier remarks thinking you had a early mirrorless body, is your zoom AF? a good replacement would be a Nikon D7200 plus 70-300 for your present kit.
 
I am by no means a real sports photographer but I do go to a lot of sporting events. I use the Sony a6000 with my 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 lens. The a6000 has a continuous mode with up to 11 fps. I suggest considering a camera that can capture more frames per second so you don't have to constantly try to anticipate good shots.

I went to the BIG3 games this weekend and got some decent shots from the upper level. When I have better seats I get much better shots using the continuous mode.


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- Rebecca
 
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I am by no means a real sports photographer but I do go to a lot of sporting events. I use the Sony a6000 with my 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 lens. The a6000 has a continuous mode with up to 11 fps. I suggest considering a camera that can capture more frames per second so you don't have to constantly try to anticipate good shots.

I went to the BIG3 games this weekend and got some decent shots from the upper level. When I have better seats I get much better shots using the continuous mode.
You are talkin spray and pray shooting, low cost DSLR bodies AF are only beaten by the most expensive mirrorless bodies, and the best DSLR bodies are very very good. Good af beats fast frame rate for sports, you tend to get a lot mor keepers. He has a big choice of bodies to choose from an it depends on how much he wants to spend and the sports he shoots, this affects choice of lenses, choose the lenses then the body, .
 
I am by no means a real sports photographer but I do go to a lot of sporting events. I use the Sony a6000 with my 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 lens. The a6000 has a continuous mode with up to 11 fps. I suggest considering a camera that can capture more frames per second so you don't have to constantly try to anticipate good shots.

I went to the BIG3 games this weekend and got some decent shots from the upper level. When I have better seats I get much better shots using the continuous mode.
You are talkin spray and pray shooting, low cost DSLR bodies AF are only beaten by the most expensive mirrorless bodies, and the best DSLR bodies are very very good. Good af beats fast frame rate for sports, you tend to get a lot mor keepers. He has a big choice of bodies to choose from an it depends on how much he wants to spend and the sports he shoots, this affects choice of lenses, choose the lenses then the body, .
 
Conventional wisdom says you should spend more on a good lens than on a good body, and since a 70-200 f2.8 is a must for anyone who is even remotely serious about sports photography, I would start there. Personally I would also add a 1.4x TC. That and a decent medium-level body should get you pretty far without blowing (too big) a hole in your bank account.
 
Conventional wisdom says you should spend more on a good lens than on a good body, and since a 70-200 f2.8 is a must for anyone who is even remotely serious about sports photography, I would start there. Personally I would also add a 1.4x TC. That and a decent medium-level body should get you pretty far without blowing (too big) a hole in your bank account.
I think the 70-200 f2.8 is going to be one of the first lenses I buy. From their it is either the d7200 or d3400. D3400 comes with a nice kit lens for $500. Not sure what else I would need after that.
 
I would really recommend the 1.4x TC for sports. I find that 98-280mm f4 is much more versatile in the daytime than 70-200 f2.8 with virtually no drop in IQ.

Also, if you're going the Nikon route and want to save some money, try to find the VR I version of the 70-200 lens. From what I've read, the VR II version isn't worth the extra money. Don't know anything about the new fluorite lens, though I suspect its bang-to-buck ratio is even lower than the VR II.
 
You are talkin spray and pray shooting, low cost DSLR bodies AF are only beaten by the most expensive mirrorless bodies, and the best DSLR bodies are very very good.
"With the Sony FE 70-200 F4, the results were really impressive. Not only could the camera happily sustain focus on the subject traveling towards the camera, but in tracking mode with a medium-sized focus target (Lock-On: Flexible Spot M) it was able to keep track of a subject weaving around in the frame. At 8 fps.

This is a really impressive result: the closest we've seen to a 100% hit-rate in this test so far. The Canon 1D X II and Nikon D5 may well be able to match this performance, but there isn't a DSLR that can focus so far out towards the edge of the frame as this. What's all the more impressive is that there aren't any complex settings that need to be configured to get this result - it's essentially point and shoot."

https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-a6300/8
It's not spray and pray. I can get pretty good shots with or without the continuous mode. The autofocus functions on the a6000, a6300, and a6500 are all very good. Compare the number of focus points and you will see that they can hold their own. However, while I love my a6000 and I do plan to upgrade to the a6500 I am in no way trying to sell Sony products, it's just my preference.
the a6000 also has an earlier form of hybrid af, it's no slouch... of course, you can't get hybrid af with any dslr, when the mirror is down, dslrs can only do pdaf that way... primitive stuff.

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dan
 
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My zoom is AF. Was in really good light yesterday, 6pm est. I was looking at the Nikons and Canon. I think my entry level camera is being pushed far past its limits. I like Nikons lens support and options.
nikon camera bodies have lousy q.c., and bad support... the d750 for example, is on it's third recall.

nikon has had a huge oily shutter problem, with multiple camera models, it was so poorly supported that they were banned from selling the d600 in china: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/9986488336/chinese-government-orders-nikon-to-stop-selling-d600

nikon just went through it's second major management reorganization, it's the second time in three years that they've done that.

it might be better to go canon, they have good lens selection, but the sensors are weak, with poor d.r... do your homework first.

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dan
 
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Just started to get back into sports photography. Been taking pictures of skateboarding and tonight did a dog frisbee event.
some kinds of skateboarding are very doable with manual focus... if you know where the action is going to take place, just set the focus there, and wait for the subject to enter the frame... say on a bowl or skate ramp... these shots were done with manual focus, i could do it with that a200, using any lens.

dog frisbee on the other hand would be be challenging, it's all over the place, so good af would give you a higher keeper rate.

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dan
 
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you will probably get more hits with a nikon d500 than your model.

try the sony forum for specific help if you believe it is your body and or lens, and they may know your exact lens.

know what you need if you can afford to miss one here or there and goodluck
 
Conventional wisdom says you should spend more on a good lens than on a good body, and since a 70-200 f2.8 is a must for anyone who is even remotely serious about sports photography, I would start there. Personally I would also add a 1.4x TC. That and a decent medium-level body should get you pretty far without blowing (too big) a hole in your bank account.
I think the 70-200 f2.8 is going to be one of the first lenses I buy. From their it is either the d7200 or d3400. D3400 comes with a nice kit lens for $500. Not sure what else I would need after that.
What type of sports are you going to shoot, this will have a big effect on what lenses you buy, If you shoot motorsports you will find a 70-200 a bit short at the long end, a 80-400 would be more useful on a crop sensor body.
 
Conventional wisdom says you should spend more on a good lens than on a good body, and since a 70-200 f2.8 is a must for anyone who is even remotely serious about sports photography, I would start there. Personally I would also add a 1.4x TC. That and a decent medium-level body should get you pretty far without blowing (too big) a hole in your bank account.
I think the 70-200 f2.8 is going to be one of the first lenses I buy. From their it is either the d7200 or d3400. D3400 comes with a nice kit lens for $500. Not sure what else I would need after that.
What type of sports are you going to shoot, this will have a big effect on what lenses you buy, If you shoot motorsports you will find a 70-200 a bit short at the long end, a 80-400 would be more useful on a crop sensor body.
 
Conventional wisdom says you should spend more on a good lens than on a good body, and since a 70-200 f2.8 is a must for anyone who is even remotely serious about sports photography, I would start there. Personally I would also add a 1.4x TC. That and a decent medium-level body should get you pretty far without blowing (too big) a hole in your bank account.
I think the 70-200 f2.8 is going to be one of the first lenses I buy. From their it is either the d7200 or d3400. D3400 comes with a nice kit lens for $500. Not sure what else I would need after that.
What type of sports are you going to shoot, this will have a big effect on what lenses you buy, If you shoot motorsports you will find a 70-200 a bit short at the long end, a 80-400 would be more useful on a crop sensor body.
 
You should read DPR's review of the Nikon D7500 just published it could be a ideal camera for you.
 
I am by no means a real sports photographer but I do go to a lot of sporting events. I use the Sony a6000 with my 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 lens. The a6000 has a continuous mode with up to 11 fps. I suggest considering a camera that can capture more frames per second so you don't have to constantly try to anticipate good shots.

I went to the BIG3 games this weekend and got some decent shots from the upper level. When I have better seats I get much better shots using the continuous mode.
You are talkin spray and pray shooting, low cost DSLR bodies AF are only beaten by the most expensive mirrorless bodies, and the best DSLR bodies are very very good. Good af beats fast frame rate for sports, you tend to get a lot mor keepers. He has a big choice of bodies to choose from an it depends on how much he wants to spend and the sports he shoots, this affects choice of lenses, choose the lenses then the body, .
 
Just started to get back into sports photography. Been taking pictures of skateboarding and tonight did a dog frisbee event. I have a 10 year old Sony A200 and my zoom is a Minolta 100-300 f4.5. I find that I really have to work and try to anticipate shots and pray that I get something. I think I took 700 shots tonight and I am very disappointed in the overall results. Most of the pictures are out of focus. I find the camera set up very slow. Is it the lens, the camera, or me that is holding me back? Should I get a better lens for the Sony, or move on to a newer system. I don't have a lot invested in the Sony so it doesn't owe me anything.
So the thing I've not heard anybody say here is that getting into sports photography actually takes some getting used to & practice. It's not really easy to get good shots right from the start, and even with good AF you will miss focus a lot if the action is fast, unpredictable, or if there's lots of stuff happening in the background. If you get 30 good shots out of 700, that's a good harvest.

Having said that, you will probably benefit from a better camera (D500 is pretty much unbeatable for sports at its price), and a faster focusing lens. One of the reasons people pay good money for a 2.8 tele lens (be it a 70-200 or a 300+ prime) is because the focus acquisition is excellent, almost instant.

But positioning, finding the right angle, knowing your camera's capabilities and limitations, and timing are all more important skills to master. Practice, practice, practice.

Here's a few of my events, shot with a variety of lenses (ranging from 20mm to 200mm)
 
Sure there is a 1% chance you'll get a dud, but Sony is even worse.

Nikon had good support too.

The important thing is Nikon and Canon have the best lenses and the best focus tracking.

Check out the Nikon and Canon forums for examples.
 

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