Reading mode: Light Dark

Checking Sony A6300 pictures with magnification

Go to last post
AMILLR

AMILLR

Forum Enthusiast
Messages
272
Reaction score
22
Location
Maryland, US
I'm trying to figure out if some of my pictures didn't come out sharp because I had the ISO, aperture or shutter speed set incorrectly or if I've got the wrong settings on the camera. My first thought is that there's something going on with the camera and/or the lens but we all know that's probably not the case, don't we??? ;-) (do you have to calibrate a 6300 and the lenses?)

I took some pics in JPEG mode and in raw mode, uploaded them to my mac into photos and then I magnified them to see if one was sharper than the other.

One of these photos, the first one, looks pretty sharp until I start to really magnify it and then it's pretty grainy and out of focus.

The second picture doesn't take much magnification until it looks blurry and grainy.

Should I be magnifying the pics in my post production software or can I tell from these pictures where I've gone wrong and is there a point where you've magnified the pic TOO MUCH that it's always going to look grainy?

I'm still trying to experiment with different settings and focal lengths to see what I did and did not do correctly so I can learn from my mistakes and find out the limits of the lens.

**One note: I changed the camera to use BBF. With everything I've been reading I have a better chance of getting the subject in focus and staying in focus

Sony 18105/f4 shot at 55mm F11 @1/200
Sony 18105/f4 shot at 55mm F11 @1/200

Sony 18105/f4 shot at 105mm F22 @1/10
Sony 18105/f4 shot at 105mm F22 @1/10
 
Last edited:
The second picture was at f/22, which is going to cause distortion in the picture. Why did you take it with the aperture so closed?
 
Only way to learn is by doing...Never said I knew EXACTLY what I was doing :)

It's pretty challenging trying to get the shot in focus and all the settings correct. Probably could shoot straight JPEG but I want to learn can't do that if everything is already done for me...
 
One thing you can do as a beginner is set the camera to auto and look at the settings it's trying to take the pictures with and figure out why it's using them. If that picture was in good sunlight try again with ISO 100, F/8, 1/100.
 
Right before golden hour...Quickly losing light...Thanks for the advice...I have tried that several times too...In the end I need to practice multitasking so I can do everything before the picture goes away....It's a process, frustrating but I'd determined.
 
You use faster aperture with low light, not slower.

Read and memorize the exposure triangle. Each corner plays a part, and each has benefits and drawbacks when approaching the extremes.

Loading…

sonyalphalab.com
 
Last edited:
AMILLR said:
Sony 18105/f4 shot at 55mm F11 @1/200
Sony 18105/f4 shot at 55mm F11 @1/200
Click to expand...
This one doesn't seem that bad. What focus mode were you in? Perhaps the focus is on the black archway and causing slight out of focus on the buildings if you are expecting even sharper results?

AMILLR said:
Sony 18105/f4 shot at 105mm F22 @1/10
Sony 18105/f4 shot at 105mm F22 @1/10
Click to expand...
Agree with the other comments that this is due to f22 and diffraction. Perhaps also some motion blur due to the slow shutter speed?
 
Diffraction but also noise reduction. low contrast, all kind of things.
 
Funny thing is I know all that stuff: Increasing ISO creates noise, higher aperture-less light, etc.

When I take pictures it seems when I start to apply all that the pictures just don't look right..

Instead of relying on the viewfinder and the lcd screen I guess I have to start depending on the histogram and peaking and zebra.

So many things to think about when you're composing a picture. By the time you get everything set you might have missed the pictures.

Yes, I can shoot in JPEG but I'm a little concerned with the 18105 and the wide angle distortion. If the camera doesn't correct for it I need to shoot it raw so I can fix it in post production. Thus a conundrum.
 
Keep the camera in P mode. That should rule out the most mistakes, like in the last picture:

diffraction due to much too closed aperture, resulting in too low shutter speed - image shake, and higher than necessary ISO causing noise reduction drop in image quality.

While in P mode, observe the histogram and your motive. Adjust if needed the exposure compensation dial a bit. Actually not needed that much if you also shoot RAW (+ JPG), because that file will allow you to set exposure just right in post production anyway.

If shooting action, simply turn on AF-C. The camera will then shift priority to high shutter speeds by itself ( at least on the A6000).
 
AMILLR said:
Funny thing is I know all that stuff: Increasing ISO creates noise, higher aperture-less light, etc.

When I take pictures it seems when I start to apply all that the pictures just don't look right..

Instead of relying on the viewfinder and the lcd screen I guess I have to start depending on the histogram and peaking and zebra.

So many things to think about when you're composing a picture. By the time you get everything set you might have missed the pictures.
Click to expand...
You're over-thinking it. Use one of the auto modes and shift your attention to composition and correctly focusing.
AMILLR said:
Yes, I can shoot in JPEG but I'm a little concerned with the 18105 and the wide angle distortion. If the camera doesn't correct for it I need to shoot it raw so I can fix it in post production. Thus a conundrum.
Click to expand...
When shooting in jpeg with the 18-105 the camera will correct for distortion - always - you have no choice (you have no option so it's greyed out). If shooting raw then you have to correct in post, but that's easy.
 
rlyons said:
AMILLR said:
....
Click to expand...
rlyons said:
Yes, I can shoot in JPEG but I'm a little concerned with the 18105 and the wide angle distortion. If the camera doesn't correct for it I need to shoot it raw so I can fix it in post production. Thus a conundrum.
Click to expand...
When shooting in jpeg with the 18-105 the camera will correct for distortion - always - you have no choice (you have no option so it's greyed out). If shooting raw then you have to correct in post, but that's easy.
Click to expand...
Correct. Note: The lens correction in C1 is better than incamera.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top