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sending my d7100 back... very upset with it
- Thread starter csxfan
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Brev00
Forum Pro
The fact that it was standing still does not affect the comments about 1.8 being a poor quality setting for this particular lens. Plus, 1/8000 for a daytime shot tells me that you were shooting in the brightest sun which often mixes with haze to create lower quality images. I would take some shots that require more normal settings (let's say f 8, 1/400, iso 100) and see what you get. Shooting at the extremes may be an interesting way to get some unusual results but it is not a very good way to test your gear. Best to start with normal situations and then go to extremes to see what happens.
Will B Milner
Leading Member
It doesn't sound like your camera is faulty. I can't think of any reason why you'd want to shoot a static large object, that you want in focus, during bright daylight at f1.8.... try f7.1 - 8. Also on an APS-C sensor, you start encounter diffraction from f10 as you stop down.
Mystery member
Forum Pro
Most of those settings either have nothing to do with AF or are irrelevant to the type of shooting that you are doing (see comments). Be advised that the Nikon AF system takes a fair bit of understanding before you can get the best from it. Seems that you didn't believe the Nikon rep.
Instead of unusual settings, such as f/1.8 and 1/8000s. Try some more ordinary settings and see how you go. No need for f/1.8 for a train, and never any need for f/22. The lens may not be much good at f/1.8.
Dare I suggest that you try the camera on "Auto" for a while?
What do you think that "shooting raw" adds to your photography?
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GodSpeaks
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I think the store you took it to was correct in stating that you do not know what you are doing.
Old (especially very old) lenses do not always work well on modern digital cameras. If the camera cannot decide what to focus on, who is at fault? You are the photographer, so it is up to you to control the camera, not the other way around.
If all you want is a point and shoot, then perhaps you should buy a point and shoot. I hear smartphones are excellent at this.
Old (especially very old) lenses do not always work well on modern digital cameras. If the camera cannot decide what to focus on, who is at fault? You are the photographer, so it is up to you to control the camera, not the other way around.
If all you want is a point and shoot, then perhaps you should buy a point and shoot. I hear smartphones are excellent at this.
Gary Skirvin
Leading Member
Wow Mr Forum Pro, hope your other 11k + posts were more helpful than this. Maybe you should pause before hitting "post" and re-read your response to see if you're offering something positive.
GS
GS
csxfan
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i want to thank all the members who have taken the time to this point to help me out with my early take on the d7100.i i said, i found the lens to not be as sharp as my 50mm f1.8 ii on my canon eos-m, as this is what i am use to using. i did state i was very happy with the low light performance of the lens wide open, just not that instance. that is now water under a bridge, as i did return the lens. i concluded it wouldnt work for me.
Now i took the advice and did mods to the settings of the camera to improve upon the focusing of my af-s 28-300mm g lens. i set the camera up for back focusing, dynamic focusing to 9 points and af-c with high burst rate setting of ch. big, big improvement over my airport shoot. i also set the auto iso to shutter speed automatic with a top iso level of 6400. thank you all for the suggestions on those settings.
as for mr godspeak... you seem to put point and shoots and cell cameras into such a bad light. shame on you implying such imo. many pros use point and shoots and cell phones for their work. its not the tool, but the people who use them. i know im not any where close to their skills, but i know as i progress along with help, ill improve 1000x.
now, if i may ask one last question, as this confuses me some what. with the 28-300mm lens, and the dynamic 9 point focusing, why does this lens show the focus points towards the bottom of the lens and not the center?????? is there another setting that should be applied?????
thanks again
Now i took the advice and did mods to the settings of the camera to improve upon the focusing of my af-s 28-300mm g lens. i set the camera up for back focusing, dynamic focusing to 9 points and af-c with high burst rate setting of ch. big, big improvement over my airport shoot. i also set the auto iso to shutter speed automatic with a top iso level of 6400. thank you all for the suggestions on those settings.
as for mr godspeak... you seem to put point and shoots and cell cameras into such a bad light. shame on you implying such imo. many pros use point and shoots and cell phones for their work. its not the tool, but the people who use them. i know im not any where close to their skills, but i know as i progress along with help, ill improve 1000x.
now, if i may ask one last question, as this confuses me some what. with the 28-300mm lens, and the dynamic 9 point focusing, why does this lens show the focus points towards the bottom of the lens and not the center?????? is there another setting that should be applied?????
thanks again
csxfan
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it is possible or the lens itself maybe a tick better in wide open mode. i know when i was shooting sony i just shot in jpeg in either p or av mode. when i moved to pentax i went fully av mode and 100% raw. like i said, this is the first time ive had this happen.
In Dynamic 9 point, it uses the points closest to the one you have selected. half press the shutter release to get the camera ready, and use the directional button on the back to move the AF-point around.
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You set the focus box that is primary by selecting it with the multi-selector on the back of the camera. If it's shown at the bottom of the lens, it's because you moved it there. Use the center button on the multi-selector to re-center it.
Good luck. Remember, AF Area mode "9pt" first uses the focus box you select to acquire focus mand maintain lock. It only uses the surrounding 8 AF arrays if you can't keep the target in the FoV of the focus box you used. If you don't get the target back in the FoV of that first box...it will switch to a new focus target that is in the FoV of that box you fist chose. 9pt isn't tracking the target... It's momentarily extending the FoV to help you keep the target centered
N
Novatos
Guest
I doubt the Nikon Rep made those comment.
Very interesting story though.
cosmicnode
Veteran Member
Most lenses are at there best around f5.6-f8.
This is a personal choice, Nikon cameras do not work any better that way than using the shutter button for focus, do not force your choice on others. Otherwise I agree
Stephan Def
Forum Enthusiast
Normally when testing a system you start with basic function test and then work your way up to more advanced tests. That is the proper and systematic approach. Also when testing you always make sure you collect maximum useful data about the test, that would in your case be the exif data of the camera.
So... do a basic test to see how your lens focuses with your camera, control everything manual in the beginning especially the focus point. do a series a images using a high shutter speed (avoid camera shake) and step up the aperture value for each image of the series.
Your images just look flat out of focus, which could be any number of things. Note the D lenses are known not to be optimal in IQ, something optimal would be the 50mm 1.8G, if you really what to get the maximum thats doable. Another extreme sharp lens is the 40mm micro. But even my sigma 17-50 would do orders of magnitude better wide open...
Cheers and good luck.
So... do a basic test to see how your lens focuses with your camera, control everything manual in the beginning especially the focus point. do a series a images using a high shutter speed (avoid camera shake) and step up the aperture value for each image of the series.
Your images just look flat out of focus, which could be any number of things. Note the D lenses are known not to be optimal in IQ, something optimal would be the 50mm 1.8G, if you really what to get the maximum thats doable. Another extreme sharp lens is the 40mm micro. But even my sigma 17-50 would do orders of magnitude better wide open...
Cheers and good luck.
photoreddi
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Unless DPR changed how it deals with uploaded JPEGs it's unlikely that we'll see the OP's full set of JPEG metadata. Previously (and this may still be true) the way to allow people to see the full metadata from JPEGs (uploaers can always see metadata from their own JPEGs even if they don't change their DPR profile) they needed to upload a SOOC JPEG to their own gallery. That is, an unedited JPEG, unless you KNOW with certainty that the editing software didn't strip out or modify any of the EXIF data. Then the uploader's DPR profile has to be edited to allow downloads. If this isn't done then the only versions of the photo that WE can see are Small, Medium and Large. After the profile is changed, a fourth viewing option is added, Original. This only guarantees that we can see all of the EXIF metadata that the uploaded JPEG contained. The uploader still needs to do their part to make sure that none of the metadata has been stripped out or modified by a photo editor. Whether the OP has the ability or the desire to do this remains to be seen.
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That hasn't been the case since I have been posting. That assumes you are checking the EXIF of the "original" link and not the in the post image. That said, if the linked image (not a member gallery image) does not have the full EXIF intact... then the "original" won't either.
That still works also.
That is still the case with DPR gallery images. I have often pointed out the need for folks to "allow download of original". Thanks for the reminder.
photoreddi
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No, not a chance.
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That's simply not true. People have been trying for years post inline images that included full EXIF and they have consistently failed. Some of the inline images contained more EXIF data than others but they all included far less than the full set which depending on the camera can include hundreds of items, including the camera's serial number and a precise description of the lens that was used. When they followed my advice and then uploaded the same photo to their gallery, if they didn't already have the "download" option enabled in their DPR profile, there was no "Original" option. Without uploading another photo to their gallery, if they then enabled the "download" option, the "Original" option then appeared and whatever EXIF data existed in the photo at the time it was uploaded could be seen. Obviously if the JPEG had been edited in a way that stripped out some of the EXIF metadata, the full set of metadata would not have been available.
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From what I've seen (many, many times) that hasn't been true unless the person posting the image misled the forum. I'm talking about an inline image where the image appears in a forum post, not a link to an image that's hosted by (for example) zenfolio, smugmug, etc.
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You seem confused. Of course it works but it only works for the gallery owners. They NEVER have to have their "download" profile options enabled to see an "Original" link. Its the rest of us, the non-gallery owners that won't be able to see an "Original" link if the gallery owners haven't enabled "downloads" in their profile.
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I'm happy that there's _something_ that we can agree on.
bobkoure
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In future, if you need to share a raw file, it's worth thinking of alternate ways of sharing as DPR won't allow a NEF upload.
When I needed to do this, I just used Google Drive, which is free if you've got a gmail account. Go to drive.google.com, then go through the steps to upload a file (the NEF in question). Then It's a matter of getting a link to share that file, which you can put in your post as a link.
Hoping this helps someone...
When I needed to do this, I just used Google Drive, which is free if you've got a gmail account. Go to drive.google.com, then go through the steps to upload a file (the NEF in question). Then It's a matter of getting a link to share that file, which you can put in your post as a link.
Hoping this helps someone...
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I just checked using an image linked outside the galleries.
This post for example:
Loading…
www.dpreview.com
All EXIF seems to be available (usimg the "Original Size" image) and none of the images are in the members gallery.
Strange. i wonder why I can access full EXIF. I'll look into why when I get home. Thanks
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