mrehorst
Well-known member
I have one of these lenses in excellent condition with an adapter to fit my NX500. Maybe this would be better that the ETX-90 telescope I previously asked about for capturing galaxies and nebulae...
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Using the fairly inexpensive iOptron Skytracker, I have successfully tracked 30 sec with a 200mm lens. At a fairly high ISO, you can pull in a lot with a 200mm lens. Smaller DSO objects won't be too useful, but larger nebula are certainly doable.200mm would require good tracking , what tracking equipment do you have ?
I agree with Trollman, here. Just get out and see how this lens performs. Try using different apertures starting with wide open. Examine the image right after taking it, zoom in on the edges and corners, looking for misshapen stars. Then begin stopping down taking test images to see how star images improve. The brightest stars will show aberrations best. So try finding a star field with lots of bright stars across the field. I wouldn't necessarily try for some notable object in your images. Just some nice star fields to see how image responds to stopping down. Then you'll be able to use the lens at its best.If you have the lens, just try! No better way to learn than getting started and trying out.
If new to astronomy a good basic book about astrophotography will get you started. Books tell the whole story, and not only the fragmented glimpses gained from Internet.
Jim,Be aware that the iOpton Skytracker is difficult to aim. To make this easier, I made a holder for a Tasco Red Dot Sighter that mounds onto the flash shoe, and it really makes a difference.
robbiekay,Jim,Be aware that the iOpton Skytracker is difficult to aim. To make this easier, I made a holder for a Tasco Red Dot Sighter that mounds onto the flash shoe, and it really makes a difference.
Can you please elaborate on your red dot alignment method, either here or in a new thread. I am in the process of building a stepper motor driven tracker and I have mounted a green laser and a 2x40mm red dot sight for polar alignment, but it hasn't been clear to do any trials. I have researched the Kochab method, and Roger Clarke had an interesting commentary on just aligning directly on Polaris and he shows some calculations of inherent errors:
Roger's Polaris error calcs
Since my design allows for fast slewing, why not to mount the camera with 55->300mm zoom, focus on Polaris at full zoom on magnified live view and slew the camera from a horizontal plane at 90 degrees to -90 degrees and adjust alignment until Polaris doesn't move? I can envision calibrating the three red dots in the finder to get a better approximation of the 1degree offset to NCP in the direction of Kochab which is a 16degree spread from Polaris.
All comments appreciated.




It actually weighs less than my flash unit. Its not very big.Jim,
Thanks for the clarification and photos. That looks like a lot of weight to dangle on the hot flash shoe...wouldn't want to damage the camera so I was thinking of an "interposer" adapter plate under the camera with a green laser maybe held on by a couple of strap clamps or nylon ties whereby critical alignment here is unnecessary.
Ditto, I have a huge EQ mount and several OTA's, but when I just want to go out and grab an image with 2 minutes setup time, nothing beats the little SkyTracker.\Using the fairly inexpensive iOptron Skytracker, I have successfully tracked 30 sec with a 200mm lens. At a fairly high ISO, you can pull in a lot with a 200mm lens. Smaller DSO objects won't be too useful, but larger nebula are certainly doable.200mm would require good tracking , what tracking equipment do you have ?
I do also have an equatorial mount and several telescopes, but the iOptron Skytacker is nice when I don't want to drag out the heavy stuff.