Which speedlite lens?

I've never had AWB fail on my 70D. Indoors, outdoors, sunset, flash, flourescent, incandescent. "It just works". Still amazed by this camera.
AWB works well as long as you have one single light source that dominates the image. Where AWB will get you into trouble is if you have two or more different light sources that are "fighting" for dominance. As an example, if you had daylight through a window on one side and strobe flash on the other side. That will get you inconsistent results.

AWB is not so bad if you have daylight dominating the image, and you use a little strobe flash as fill.
If what you're saying were true, fill flash (which is "fighting" half ambient light, half flash) using AWB simply wouldn't work. Are you basing your comments on actual experience using the 70D? I haven't experienced any inconsistent results with window light plus room incandescent lighting, for example.
 
I was basing my comments on six other Canon bodies.

If you have two drastically different light sources, especially side-to-side, then your AWB can give inconsistent results. If you have one dominant daylight source and then some fill flash, the fill flash only really shows in the shadows, and it doesn't seem to work so bad.
 
Shooting concerts is a drag if wanting color.

I have read here on DPR that some have changed their indoor lighting to the same bulb or led (or whatever) to overcome the issue here debated.
 
The only reliable solution for white balance is to shoot in raw mode, with something neutral colored in the scene that you can use to set the white balance in one of your shots. Once you have it for one shot, you can copy and then tweak as needed for the rest.

With two or more light sources of different colors raw becomes even more critical, allowing you to adjust manually, by eye, for the subject, if needed. This is especially useful where the light color is changing frequently, such as with lights at a performance.
 
The only reliable solution for white balance is to shoot in raw mode, with something neutral colored in the scene that you can use to set the white balance in one of your shots. Once you have it for one shot, you can copy and then tweak as needed for the rest.

With two or more light sources of different colors raw becomes even more critical, allowing you to adjust manually, by eye, for the subject, if needed. This is especially useful where the light color is changing frequently, such as with lights at a performance.
raw doesn't solve two light sources indoors. Your colors will never be right. You need to gel your flash ( eg cto )

also anti-flicker helps wb consistency
--
Jeff Peterman, Moderator 7D and Phone/Tablet forums.
Not a staff member, or paid employee, of DPReview.
Any insults, implied anger, bad grammar and bad spelling, are entirely unintentionalal. Sorry.
www.pbase.com/jeffp25
www.jeffp25.smugmug.com
 
I think that you misunderstand the function of HSS. Having a more power flash cannot substitute for HSS.
Actually it can, if you really need to freeze motion using flash can accomplish this in ways that cameras on their own have difficulty with*. IGBT flashes for instance can produce pulses of light exceeding 1/50,000th of a second at low power settings. Studio monobloc heads at 1:1 power can produce pulses with durations as short as 1/20,000th. HSS is a poor substitute, as it spreads the illumination from the flash tube by firing multiple low power pulses for a set duration rather than firing a single short pulse - this is why you lose so much power by using it, because it in effect your flash becomes a short duration continuous light. Hence the issues with motion ghosting, uneven scene illumination and the reduced power is a hindrance if you want to use larger light modifiers with HSS flash.

HSS does have its uses. However until global shutters are more commonplace and the issues with the technology are perfected without introducing unwanted noise or image artifacts. Photographers will continue to bang their heads on the wall over HSS.

*until global shutters become more commonplace.
 
Does the 430 not have the led? Is the consensus that the 270 is underpowered then and/or underpowered?
don't get a flash that doesn't have high speed sync -- you'll need HSS outside for fill
The Canon 270EX II does have high speed sync.
my bad

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/used/754467/Canon_5247B002_Speedlite_270EX_II.html

I meant to say get a flash with high speed sync and rotation

http://www.canoncamerageek.com/high-speed-sync-with-270ex-ii.html

For the OP the power of the 270EX II is about 4 times that of your built in flash. This is because it takes 4 times the power to reach twice as far. For the type of photography you mentioned in your initial post the 270EX II would be fine.
the 270 ex II seems like an outdoor accessory for a camera that doesn't come with a flash - though I could maybe use my odins with one
When someone said the LED on the 320EX was useless, that applies to focus assist using the viewfinder focus. Many correctly believe that the LED should come on when you are taking a still photo using the viewfinder and the camera needs help focusing. The 320EX is a great balance of power, size, features, and price.

http://learn.usa.canon.com/app/pdfs/quickguides/CDLC_Speedlite320EX_QuickGuide.pdf
on price and features, michael's yo.. suggestion seems like best soln
 
raw doesn't solve two light sources indoors. Your colors will never be right. You need to gel your flash
But once you gel your flash correctly, you only have a single light color, so that doesn't apply. With raw and light sources of multiple colors, you can at least make sure that the white balance for the key subject is right - if you really want to take it to extremes, you can even create multiple images from the same raw file, each corrected for a different light source in post processing and then combine the images. But that it difficult.

What is terrible is when you subject's face is lit by two or more light sources of difference temperatures. There is not much that can be done about that.
 
raw doesn't solve two light sources indoors. Your colors will never be right. You need to gel your flash
But once you gel your flash correctly, you only have a single light color, so that doesn't apply. With raw and light sources of multiple colors, you can at least make sure that the white balance for the key subject is right - if you really want to take it to extremes, you can even create multiple images from the same raw file, each corrected for a different light source in post processing and then combine the images. But that it difficult.

What is terrible is when you subject's face is lit by two or more light sources of difference temperatures. There is not much that can be done about that.
single light color k is what you want - by geling flash. Raw can deal with single k
--
Jeff Peterman, Moderator 7D and Phone/Tablet forums.
Not a staff member, or paid employee, of DPReview.
Any insults, implied anger, bad grammar and bad spelling, are entirely unintentionalal. Sorry.
www.pbase.com/jeffp25
www.jeffp25.smugmug.com
 
Most DSLRs can only sync the flash in normal mode up to 1/250. My 6D can only go up to 1/180. I can't shoot "normal" flash outdoors in bright light with a wide open lens without over exposing. I can shoot HSS flash, allowing faster shutter speeds so that I get a correct exposure. This is mostly an issue for portraits, where there is no need to freeze high speed action.

The issue you are mentioning is very different, and is often accomplished by shooting in a dark room with a long exposure and having something trigger the flash at the key moment - or even using stroboscopic flash so that you get multiple images of the subject at different motion points on the same shot.
 
Most DSLRs can only sync the flash in normal mode up to 1/250. My 6D can only go up to 1/180. I can't shoot "normal" flash outdoors in bright light with a wide open lens without over exposing. I can shoot HSS flash, allowing faster shutter speeds so that I get a correct exposure. This is mostly an issue for portraits, where there is no need to freeze high speed action.

The issue you are mentioning is very different, and is often accomplished by shooting in a dark room with a long exposure and having something trigger the flash at the key moment - or even using stroboscopic flash so that you get multiple images of the subject at different motion points on the same shot.
Another reason i love my Odins where I can HS sync 1/8000 with power in ETTL to wipe out the sun if needed with perfect exposure :)
--
Jeff Peterman, Moderator 7D and Phone/Tablet forums.
Not a staff member, or paid employee, of DPReview.
Any insults, implied anger, bad grammar and bad spelling, are entirely unintentionalal. Sorry.
www.pbase.com/jeffp25
www.jeffp25.smugmug.com
 
I have just started using the 70d and I was considering adding a flash. Is the 270 ex II enough for indoor flash for family photos mainly? Or is there a large advantage to the 320ex or 430ex II (roughly the same price as the 320 since on sale other than recycle speed? I know yongnuo makes a few that ppl seem to like too for the price. Does anyone have experience with these for general indoor use primarily? We have babies due any day now and I don't want to hit them with the built in flash if I need it. Thanks.
I use both canon flashes and yongnuo, and the yongnuo is every bit as good as the canon, at a third of the cost. What you want is a flash with ettl and hss. Yongnuo provides this. Just buy it!!
 
I'm leaning towards one of the yongnuos and using my savings to get the 50 mm prime stm.
 
I'm leaning towards one of the yongnuos and using my savings to get the 50 mm prime stm.
you're seeing the light, go for it.

then save for the $299 10-18 stm and you'll have a good light kit, 16-400 fov with nice capability for the $
 
I've been looking at that lens as well. Might be my next one a little down the road.
 
I've been looking at that lens as well. Might be my next one a little down the road.
Great for tight quarters, just rotate your flash and bounce off of side wall or ceiling with a little bounce forward with DIY fun foam diffuser - better bounce card - Google it
 
I like the Rogue Flashbender series of flash modifiers. Fairly cheap and they give you a lot of options.
 
I like the Rogue Flashbender series of flash modifiers. Fairly cheap and they give you a lot of options.
agree, but I like the big one which is not cheap - $100

about to make one diy that big with fun foam
--
Jeff Peterman, Moderator 7D and Phone/Tablet forums.
Not a staff member, or paid employee, of DPReview.
Any insults, implied anger, bad grammar and bad spelling, are entirely unintentionalal. Sorry.
www.pbase.com/jeffp25
www.jeffp25.smugmug.com
 
raw doesn't solve two light sources indoors. Your colors will never be right. You need to gel your flash ( eg cto )

also anti-flicker helps wb consistency
+1 Indoor flash (70D, 600EX-RT) with ,say, incandescent lighting needs a gel. I can't fix the WB in post as the 2 lighting sources are different and WB is a global change (well for me in Lightroom anyway) 1/2 to 1 CTO gel solves this.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top