DSLR Camera for Beginner on a Budget (Old or New)

Hey Everyone,

So after contemplating back and forth, reading a lot of reviews and taking all of your suggestions into consideration, since i'm a newbie to DSLR, i think starting off with the Nikon D3100 is best for me and possibly get the body alone, maybe with the kit lens depending on how much and getting the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 HSM.
Neat! Now go out and become a great photographer...
 
Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?

You see what I should tell you is my business is not like real estate agent where I will be showing like a lot of properties, but just what I have now 7, over time I'm expected to get like a few more, but not like buying, selling, renovating etc., just vacation renting basically.

Howard
 
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Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?
A 35mm lens on a D3100 has a "normal" angle of view. In the old days, a lot of cameras came with just a normal lens (a 50mm focal length on 35mm film) and we took lots of good pictures with them. And the 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor is a superbly sharp normal lens (almost as good as the Schneider Xenon on my wife's Retina). So it can certainly be a primary lens.

But this is today and we have zooms. I believe that the flexibility of a zoom lens improves one's photography compared to having to squeeze every shot into a normal perspective. So I suggest you get a zoom first; at least an 18-55 or ideally an 18-140.

I generally use my 35mm at parties where I'm walking around with a camera and flash around my neck. I use it because it weighs a lot less than a zoom.
 
Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?

You see what I should tell you is my business is not like real estate agent where I will be showing like a lot of properties, but just what I have now 7, over time I'm expected to get like a few more, but not like buying, selling, renovating etc., just vacation renting basically.

Howard
A 35mm lens is considered a "normal" lens on a crop-sensor body. I think it will work well for you.
 
Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?
A 35mm lens on a D3100 has a "normal" angle of view. In the old days, a lot of cameras came with just a normal lens (a 50mm focal length on 35mm film) and we took lots of good pictures with them. And the 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor is a superbly sharp normal lens (almost as good as the Schneider Xenon on my wife's Retina). So it can certainly be a primary lens.

But this is today and we have zooms. I believe that the flexibility of a zoom lens improves one's photography compared to having to squeeze every shot into a normal perspective. So I suggest you get a zoom first; at least an 18-55 or ideally an 18-140.
So for a different opinion - I have a DSLR-level camera for photo quality and if I'm going to carry a bigger camera around I don't want to sacrifice sharpness with a big zoom. I'd rather have lighter weight, sharper images, and brighter aperture and so I almost always use primes. I only use a zoom if I need a lot of reach or am in a situation where I only want to carry one lens and expect to need a wide range of focal lengths. I currently have a kit zoom and a moderate telephoto zoom and then I have 4 primes which are almost always the lenses on my camera.
 
Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?

You see what I should tell you is my business is not like real estate agent where I will be showing like a lot of properties, but just what I have now 7, over time I'm expected to get like a few more, but not like buying, selling, renovating etc., just vacation renting basically.

Howard
A 35mm lens is considered a "normal" lens on a crop-sensor body. I think it will work well for you.
So what you saying go with it and let the Sigma stay for later, because the Sigma about $350-$400 and this is like $140-$170?

Howard
 
Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?

You see what I should tell you is my business is not like real estate agent where I will be showing like a lot of properties, but just what I have now 7, over time I'm expected to get like a few more, but not like buying, selling, renovating etc., just vacation renting basically.

Howard
A 35mm lens is considered a "normal" lens on a crop-sensor body. I think it will work well for you.
So what you saying go with it and let the Sigma stay for later, because the Sigma about $350-$400 and this is like $140-$170?
No. I thought you had decided to get the 10-20mm Sigma. I was saying that this 35mm lens would give you a "normal" lens for other photography.

But there are other ways to get there...so many choices.
 
Thank you guys :)

What do you guys think of this lens Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX, know its not a wide angle but can it be a primary lens with/without the Sigma?

You see what I should tell you is my business is not like real estate agent where I will be showing like a lot of properties, but just what I have now 7, over time I'm expected to get like a few more, but not like buying, selling, renovating etc., just vacation renting basically.

Howard
A 35mm lens is considered a "normal" lens on a crop-sensor body. I think it will work well for you.
So what you saying go with it and let the Sigma stay for later, because the Sigma about $350-$400 and this is like $140-$170?

Howard
I also like that 35 f/1.8G DX a lot. It will not be nearly as wide as the Sigma and you'll just have to see if you need that. I would, but maybe you will not. Regardless, the 35mm is a really nice and inexpensive lens to own. If I could only have one lens for a crop camera, it might be the one. Either that or the kit.

But then I can be a wide angle junkie and truly would need that wider lens for me, both as a hobby and professional lens.
 
Mannnn. you guys can tell I'm still at a cross roads, the Sigma price is the thing killing me right now.

Howard
 
Hey Everyone,

So i bought a barely used Nikon D3100 with a 18-55mm VR Kit Lens, so i made up my mind on that part, will see if i can stretch to get the Sigma 10-20mm Wide Angle Lens, but at least i have something to kinda start out with, receive the camera later this month since i'm from Jamaica and i bought it in the United States on eBay.

Howard
 
Hey Everyone,

So i bought a barely used Nikon D3100 with a 18-55mm VR Kit Lens, so i made up my mind on that part, will see if i can stretch to get the Sigma 10-20mm Wide Angle Lens, but at least i have something to kinda start out with, receive the camera later this month since i'm from Jamaica and i bought it in the United States on eBay.

Howard
My brother uses that model as it light and handy to have with on hikes and mountain climbs.
 
Good that you settled on something. Now you can begin.
 
Hey Everyone,

So i bought a barely used Nikon D3100 with a 18-55mm VR Kit Lens, so i made up my mind on that part, will see if i can stretch to get the Sigma 10-20mm Wide Angle Lens, but at least i have something to kinda start out with, receive the camera later this month since i'm from Jamaica and i bought it in the United States on eBay.

Howard
Howard, that's a great little camera. Good job. My sister owns one and has become quite good with it. She took it to Nepal and is now in Scandinavia with it.
 
Thank you guys, can't wait to get it in my hands, then it is off to Negril, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay to see what I come up with.

Howard
 
Hey Guys,



Hope you all are doing fine?

Got the camera last night, quite a bit of learning to do, but i'm doing what i can, just took some test shots from Nikon Sample images, followed what they did with these shots of my own.



These were took in the A Mode, tell me what you think?

Anyone with a good eye tell me how would I know if dust is on the sensor or in the viewfinder, because I see a few particles in the viewfinder, but don't know exactly where it is.



Howard



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Hey Guys,

Hope you all are doing fine?

Got the camera last night, quite a bit of learning to do, but i'm doing what i can, just took some test shots from Nikon Sample images, followed what they did with these shots of my own.

These were took in the A Mode, tell me what you think?
The pix are fine for a start. Keep at it! I would start by observing the background and removing things like that water hose; even OoF, it's a distraction.
Anyone with a good eye tell me how would I know if dust is on the sensor or in the viewfinder, because I see a few particles in the viewfinder, but don't know exactly where it is.
Don't worry about dust! Dust on the front of a lens has absolutely no affect on the image projected on the sensor or to your eye via the oVF. Don't worry about dust on the mirror and absolutely NEVER try to clean it off!. It has no affect, but the scratches you will create might.

If you see dust in the oVF, they are undoubtedly on the bottom of the viewing screen. These can probably be removed with a Giottos Rocket Blower. Never try to brush them off as the screen is a very soft Acrylic plastic and is easily scratched.

NOW, as to dust on the sensor. There must be thousands of posts on DPR about this. There must be hundreds of websites w/ instructions. OK, few of the DPR posts and few of the websites are correct. Many are just opinions floated by beginners after their first attempt didn't ruin anything. Many are just vendor sites promoting their products. Reader beware: Observe who is giving instructions!

Dust doesn't get on a sensor. It gets on the filter mounted most forward. Some cameras have both low-pass [anti-alias] and IR-blocking [hot-mirror] filters. Which one is farthest from the sensor catches the dust. There are ultrasonic shakers attached to this filter to dislodge most dust. Make sure it is enabled.

The filter is not very easy to damage, but you can do it. It's kinda expensive to replace, as it requires taking the camera apart.

Always use a 3-stage process, starting w/ the least invasive:
  1. W/ the mirror up for cleaning [all cameras have this feature] blow with a Rocket Blower. Get close, but don't let it hit anything. Check to see if the dust is OK.
  2. Using a soft brush, designed to clean lenses, wipe the sensor in several directions. Then blow it off again. Check to see if the dust is OK.
  3. Using Eclipse fluid and a proper swab, dampen the swab w/ 1-2 drops and wipe the sensor horizontally. Turn the swab over and do it again in the opposite horizontal direction.
To check for dust:
  • Go outside on a cloudless day. Don't get the sun near the image. Use a long FL and a small aperture [at least f/22]. Take a picture. It should not be white but rather a proper blue sky.
  • Use a small, white 1-LED flashlight [like goes on a key ring]. Position the LED at least 10 feet away, pointed at the camera. Remove the lens. Darken the room. Point the camera at the light from the LED. Adjust the exposure time to get a light-grey image. It helps to use LV for this, w/ the camera on a tripod.
Look at the image and you will see spots. The LED approach will produce small diffraction circles; the sky approach will produce small, blurry blobs.
 
Hey Guys,

Thank you all for replying, the budget is around $500 or less, will be bought in the United States like Amazon or eBay, so something that can do the job, just for my vacation rental business really.

Howard
For shooting vacation rentals, interiors, you want a lens which shows as much of a room as possible (if needed) and exaggerates the sizes of rooms, not makes them look smaller.

For that you need a ultra-wide-angle lens. Cheap DSLRs come with lenses starting from 18mm, which is 27mm-equivalent on Nikon/Pentax and 29mm on Canon - simply speaking, NOT WIDE ENOUGH.

Because apartments and beaches are not running anywhere and don't require blurred backgrounds (on the contrary), you get absolutely no benefit from a DSLR either.

Within your budget, I recommend a camera with built-in lens starting from ultra wide angle.

Possible candidates are:

Panasonic FZ70, $250 on Amazon, lens starts from 20mm equivalent

Olympus TG-860, $280 on Amazon, lens starts from 21mm equivalent (this one has tilting screen and also water-sealed and shock-proof and will likely live longer in hot climates and beach conditions with dust and sea spray).

Canon SX60, $479 on Amazon, lens starts from 21mm equivalent.

The last 2 have WiFi for easy transfer of your pictures to a phone or a tablet.

I'd take the TG-860, although it has very few controls.

You might also need a tripod.
 
Hey Guys,

Hope you all are doing fine?

Got the camera last night, quite a bit of learning to do, but i'm doing what i can, just took some test shots from Nikon Sample images, followed what they did with these shots of my own.

These were took in the A Mode, tell me what you think?
The pix are fine for a start. Keep at it! I would start by observing the background and removing things like that water hose; even OoF, it's a distraction.
Anyone with a good eye tell me how would I know if dust is on the sensor or in the viewfinder, because I see a few particles in the viewfinder, but don't know exactly where it is.
Don't worry about dust! Dust on the front of a lens has absolutely no affect on the image projected on the sensor or to your eye via the oVF. Don't worry about dust on the mirror and absolutely NEVER try to clean it off!. It has no affect, but the scratches you will create might.

If you see dust in the oVF, they are undoubtedly on the bottom of the viewing screen. These can probably be removed with a Giottos Rocket Blower. Never try to brush them off as the screen is a very soft Acrylic plastic and is easily scratched.

NOW, as to dust on the sensor. There must be thousands of posts on DPR about this. There must be hundreds of websites w/ instructions. OK, few of the DPR posts and few of the websites are correct. Many are just opinions floated by beginners after their first attempt didn't ruin anything. Many are just vendor sites promoting their products. Reader beware: Observe who is giving instructions!

Dust doesn't get on a sensor. It gets on the filter mounted most forward. Some cameras have both low-pass [anti-alias] and IR-blocking [hot-mirror] filters. Which one is farthest from the sensor catches the dust. There are ultrasonic shakers attached to this filter to dislodge most dust. Make sure it is enabled.

The filter is not very easy to damage, but you can do it. It's kinda expensive to replace, as it requires taking the camera apart.

Always use a 3-stage process, starting w/ the least invasive:
  1. W/ the mirror up for cleaning [all cameras have this feature] blow with a Rocket Blower. Get close, but don't let it hit anything. Check to see if the dust is OK.
  2. Using a soft brush, designed to clean lenses, wipe the sensor in several directions. Then blow it off again. Check to see if the dust is OK.
  3. Using Eclipse fluid and a proper swab, dampen the swab w/ 1-2 drops and wipe the sensor horizontally. Turn the swab over and do it again in the opposite horizontal direction.
To check for dust:
  • Go outside on a cloudless day. Don't get the sun near the image. Use a long FL and a small aperture [at least f/22]. Take a picture. It should not be white but rather a proper blue sky.
  • Use a small, white 1-LED flashlight [like goes on a key ring]. Position the LED at least 10 feet away, pointed at the camera. Remove the lens. Darken the room. Point the camera at the light from the LED. Adjust the exposure time to get a light-grey image. It helps to use LV for this, w/ the camera on a tripod.
Look at the image and you will see spots. The LED approach will produce small diffraction circles; the sky approach will produce small, blurry blobs.
Thank you for all the help, I tried the sky approach, just by looking in the viewfinder I can see the blurry blobs and taking the picture I can see it when I look at it at 100% the blurry blobs :(.

Howard
 

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