Full frame stopped down vs MFT wide open

IE we'd be comparing 60mm f2.8 ISO 400FF to 30mm f5.6 ISO100 MFT
why is FF using higher ISO than MFT?

--
stop shopping for lenses and start taking photo!
If you have to ask, you likely don't know what focal lengths you are interested in. In my opinion, get the kit lens
Because that's how you compensate for sensor area and use equivalent settings.
You did not think this through, read your own post in yellow.
MFT and FF settings can't be set to equivalent unless the ISO is also set to equivalent.
Only if your shutter speed must remain the same.
Shutter speed must remain the same because there is no "equivalent shutter speed". It makes no sense to just set shutter to whatever you want. ISO actually has to do with the area of the sensor. It physically makes sense that ISO 400 on a FF is equivalent to ISO 100 on a MFT. The sensor is 4x the area. The benefit of a bigger sensor IS better light sensitivity.

Yes you can shoot the FF camera at 1/4 the shutter speed and keep the nominal ISO number the same, but you're simply trading shutter speed for ISO.

You're the one who didn't think it through, or you just don't understand equivalency.
 
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IE we'd be comparing 60mm f2.8 ISO 400FF to 30mm f5.6 ISO100 MFT
why is FF using higher ISO than MFT?

--
stop shopping for lenses and start taking photo!
If you have to ask, you likely don't know what focal lengths you are interested in. In my opinion, get the kit lens
Because that's how you compensate for sensor area and use equivalent settings.
You did not think this through, read your own post in yellow.
I guess you took a look of your own writing and accepted why you did not think it through.

"IE we'd be comparing 60mm f2.8 ISO 400FF to 30mm f5.6 ISO100 MFT"
MFT and FF settings can't be set to equivalent unless the ISO is also set to equivalent.
Only if your shutter speed must remain the same.
Shutter speed must remain the same because there is no "equivalent shutter speed".
So you are saying, under bright daylight, if you were shooting a landscape shot with M43 @ 12mm, F4, 1/400s, ISO100; you must use FF @ 24mm, F8, 1/400s, ISO400? You are forbidden from using 24mm, F8, 1/100s, ISO100?
It makes no sense to just set shutter to whatever you want.
Really? I guess that is why cameras do not have M or Tv mode.
ISO actually has to do with the area of the sensor.
really actually? Citation please.
It physically makes sense that ISO 400 on a FF is equivalent to ISO 100 on a MFT.
I am not sure what you meant by "physically"
The sensor is 4x the area.
Sure.
The benefit of a bigger sensor IS better light sensitivity.
Citation please.
Yes you can shoot the FF camera at 1/4 the shutter speed and keep the nominal ISO number the same, but you're simply trading shutter speed for ISO.
And why can that not be done?
You're the one who didn't think it through, or you just don't understand equivalency.
You mean, the guy that compares "f2.8 ISO 400FF to f5.6 ISO100 MFT" does?
You don't get it. We are COMPARING MFT and FF. For the sake of COMPARISON we use EQUIVALENT settings. You can use whatever settings you want, but to COMPARE two DIFFERENT systems fairly we use EQUIVALENT settings, because they are EQUIVALENT.
 
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But comes with costs. You can get great results, with a smaller sensor, at wider aperture, hand held. With a bigger sensor, you have to stop down and sometimes increase ISO. Of course, more ISO, from a larger sensor, will still probably be as good as, if not better, than base ISO from a smaller sensor. Without a tripod, you may not be getting the very best that the exoensive full frame body can deliver.
 
But comes with costs. You can get great results, with a smaller sensor, at wider aperture, hand held. With a bigger sensor, you have to stop down and sometimes increase ISO. Of course, more ISO, from a larger sensor, will still probably be as good as, if not better, than base ISO from a smaller sensor. Without a tripod, you may not be getting the very best that the exoensive full frame body can deliver.
If anything you should get better results hand held with full frame because the pixel size is larger and should be more forgiving.
It's due to the sensor size, not the pixel size. For any given sensor size, more smaller pixels result in greater IQ except for very high ISOs.
Additionally it's not as critical on lens resolution, but it is more critical of lens corner performance.
It's only "critical of lens corner performance" because it records portions of the image circle that smaller sensors using the same lens do not.
To match exposure you should be able to use the same settings between sensor sizes.
If by "settings" you mean relative aperture and exposure time, yes.
To match field of view and depth of field you may need to stop down and increase ISO which is where ff starts to lose its advantage.
To match the field of view you would use a longer focal length in proportion to the ratio of the sensor diagonals. To match the DOF you would use the same aperture diameter (aperture diameter = focal length / relative aperture). You'd raise the ISO for the same image brightness at a given DOF and exposure time, and, under these circumstances, yes, FF will lose much, and sometimes all and then some, of its IQ advantage.
 
IE we'd be comparing 60mm f2.8 ISO 400FF to 30mm f5.6 ISO100 MFT
why is FF using higher ISO than MFT?

--
stop shopping for lenses and start taking photo!
If you have to ask, you likely don't know what focal lengths you are interested in. In my opinion, get the kit lens
Because that's how you compensate for sensor area and use equivalent settings.
You did not think this through, read your own post in yellow.
I guess you took a look of your own writing and accepted why you did not think it through.

"IE we'd be comparing 60mm f2.8 ISO 400FF to 30mm f5.6 ISO100 MFT"
MFT and FF settings can't be set to equivalent unless the ISO is also set to equivalent.
Only if your shutter speed must remain the same.
Shutter speed must remain the same because there is no "equivalent shutter speed".
So you are saying, under bright daylight, if you were shooting a landscape shot with M43 @ 12mm, F4, 1/400s, ISO100; you must use FF @ 24mm, F8, 1/400s, ISO400? You are forbidden from using 24mm, F8, 1/100s, ISO100?
It makes no sense to just set shutter to whatever you want.
Really? I guess that is why cameras do not have M or Tv mode.
ISO actually has to do with the area of the sensor.
really actually? Citation please.
It physically makes sense that ISO 400 on a FF is equivalent to ISO 100 on a MFT.
I am not sure what you meant by "physically"
The sensor is 4x the area.
Sure.
The benefit of a bigger sensor IS better light sensitivity.
Citation please.
Yes you can shoot the FF camera at 1/4 the shutter speed and keep the nominal ISO number the same, but you're simply trading shutter speed for ISO.
And why can that not be done?
You're the one who didn't think it through, or you just don't understand equivalency.
You mean, the guy that compares "f2.8 ISO 400FF to f5.6 ISO100 MFT" does?
You don't get it. We are COMPARING MFT and FF. For the sake of COMPARISON we use EQUIVALENT settings. You can use whatever settings you want, but to COMPARE two DIFFERENT systems fairly we use EQUIVALENT settings, because they are EQUIVALENT.
I am not seeing how typing stuff in caps answer my questions. Lets try this again. Please answe the following:
  1. So you are saying, under bright daylight, if you were shooting a landscape shot with M43 @ 12mm, F4, 1/400s, ISO100; you must use FF @ 24mm, F8, 1/400s, ISO400? You are forbidden from using 24mm, F8, 1/100s, ISO100?
  2. "It makes no sense to just set shutter to whatever you want." Really? I guess that is why cameras do not have M or Tv mode.
  3. "ISO actually has to do with the area of the sensor." - Citation please.
  4. "It physically makes sense that ISO 400 on a FF is equivalent to ISO 100 on a MFT." Explain what you meant by "physically".
  5. "The benefit of a bigger sensor IS better light sensitivity." - Citation please.
  6. "but you're simply trading shutter speed for ISO." - why can that not be done?
 
Since the visible effects of diffraction (loss of resolution) is in part dependent on the individual's eyesight, size of image and distance from the image, the drop in resolution at f4 may be a drop to a resolution that is still better than other lenses comparatively speaking and is perfectly acceptable or even not noticeable to some viewers. I start to see diffraction effects at f8. I don't see the effects at f4 but this is not to say they are not there or that someone else can see the resolution dropping off. I am ok with diffraction at f4 if it hasn't helped drop resolution to unacceptable levels.
How do you know that you do not see diffraction at f/4? You cannot magically remove it and compare.
You and Bob are now being argumentative (on different tangents). Is there not a difference between diffraction being present and diffraction being visibly detrimental to an image? I should add to the list above that diffraction depends on a person's pre-bias in and out of ridiculous online debates.

Bob says it doesn't matter and wouldn't answer questions about the Lenstip MTF charts but I drew my f4 comment from my direct study of images from the 5D3/24-70 II (which btw seem to differ from the MTF charts of the 24-70 II at Lenstip) as well as the study of many other camera/lens combos over the years.

At the link in my signature, there are many real-world RAW comparisons, one of which is a landscape shot with the 5D3/24-70 II combo @ 24mm and every full aperture starting wide open to f22. My observation being that at 100% view in center frame, f2.8 is as sharp as the lens gets. f4 and f5.6 were indistinguishable from f2.8 to my eye. By f8, there was a slight softening, and by f11, diffraction was clearly approaching detrimental levels, IMO of course. Nobody is saying that diffraction isn't present from the get-go or at f4 but nobody but geeks care about that. What folks want to know is when and where does diffraction become a problem for their particular applications. I recommend that they use their eyes instead of charts.

Here's where I got some of my initial information about diffraction:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/22067611

Mostly math related.

Lucky for me, Mike actually calculated the smallest desirable aperture (I am sure you will nitpick my description of 'desirable') as 12.64 which I have rounded up to f13. So, you will find an f13 shot in every comparison I have done since then.

Here's an interesting article posted via CR.

https://fstoppers.com/education/5ds-f11-and-confusing-circles-68177

What do you think about the info at these two links? (Not a trap.)
In the graph below, without diffraction, the curve would go straight up. It has zero slope at f/4 because of the diffraction. Actually, if you model diffraction and aberrations, then add them according to the "Kodak formula", you would get that at f/4 diffraction and aberrations have equal strength in this example; not only equal derivatives as functions of aperture.
This techno-babble is fine but mind numbing to most of us. And misused, can send newbies down incorrect paths. You are an accomplished aliasing detective. What do your eyes tell you about resolution? (Rhetorical)

Can you really detect the difference in a few lines of resolution by eyesight? (Context: your question above.)

d7c65a6239614209aa61c6144b599ced.jpg.png
--
Formerly known as Just Another Canon Shooter
--
Rick Knepper, photographer, shooting for pleasure. I use tools, not brands. It is better to have It and not need It than need It and not have It. Mystery Gardner: "Rick, you have a passion for photography but not a position. That's a good thing." Based on 2014 keepers, I shot the following percentages: 5D3=42%, D800=31%, 6D=25% & D3x=2%. Various RAW comparisons at Link below. Includes 5D3 vs D800E (new uploads), 5D3 vs. 6D, Zeiss lenses etc. https://app.box.com/s/71w40ita6hrcfghojaie
 
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Since the visible effects of diffraction (loss of resolution) is in part dependent on the individual's eyesight, size of image and distance from the image, the drop in resolution at f4 may be a drop to a resolution that is still better than other lenses comparatively speaking and is perfectly acceptable or even not noticeable to some viewers. I start to see diffraction effects at f8. I don't see the effects at f4 but this is not to say they are not there or that someone else can see the resolution dropping off. I am ok with diffraction at f4 if it hasn't helped drop resolution to unacceptable levels.
How do you know that you do not see diffraction at f/4? You cannot magically remove it and compare.
You and Bob are now being argumentative (on different tangents).
I'm certainly not 'being argumentative'. All I'm doing is pointing out that your advice and initial entry was, in my view, less than helpful. Obviously you see it differently. You have a right to your own opinion and I have a right to mine.
Is there not a difference between diffraction being present and diffraction being visibly detrimental to an image? I should add to the list above that diffraction depends on a person's pre-bias in and out of ridiculous online debates.

Bob says it doesn't matter
Did I say anywhere that 'it doesn't matter'? The point I have been making is that there is no 'limit' where diffraction becomes visible. Diffraction blurring increases the more you stop down, and whether or not you can see it depends on enlargement, other sources of blurring, viewing distance and your own subjective standards of sharpness. All of that is pretty much a case of personal use case and preferences, and a calculator that pretends there is some hard limit, based on pixel size, is not helpful.
and wouldn't answer questions about the Lenstip MTF charts
Which questions would I not answer? The only direct question you asked was which lens it was, and I answered even though it was somewhat irrelevant.
What folks want to know is when and where does diffraction become a problem for their particular applications. I recommend that they use their eyes instead of charts.
Agreed, and I would add 'use their eyes instead of a calculator' which is what you were suggesting in the first place.

Looks to me that you're the one being a little argumentative, and tilting at windmills here.
 
You and Bob are now being argumentative (on different tangents). Is there not a difference between diffraction being present and diffraction being visibly detrimental to an image?
With really good lenses, diffraction actually improves your image at apertures like f/4 or so - without it, aliasing would be ugly, I guess (on a Bayer sensor).
My observation being that at 100% view in center frame, f2.8 is as sharp as the lens gets. f4 and f5.6 were indistinguishable from f2.8 to my eye.
Without diffraction, they would be distinguishable. Of course, I realize that this does not make sense since I do not know how to remove diffraction from waves.
By f8, there was a slight softening, and by f11, diffraction was clearly approaching detrimental levels, IMO of course. Nobody is saying that diffraction isn't present from the get-go or at f4 but nobody but geeks care about that. What folks want to know is when and where does diffraction become a problem for their particular applications. I recommend that they use their eyes instead of charts.

Here's where I got some of my initial information about diffraction:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/22067611

Mostly math related.

Lucky for me, Mike actually calculated the smallest desirable aperture (I am sure you will nitpick my description of 'desirable') as 12.64 which I have rounded up to f13. So, you will find an f13 shot in every comparison I have done since then.

Here's an interesting article posted via CR.

https://fstoppers.com/education/5ds-f11-and-confusing-circles-68177

What do you think about the info at these two links? (Not a trap.)
Misinformation.
In the graph below, without diffraction, the curve would go straight up. It has zero slope at f/4 because of the diffraction. Actually, if you model diffraction and aberrations, then add them according to the "Kodak formula", you would get that at f/4 diffraction and aberrations have equal strength in this example; not only equal derivatives as functions of aperture.
This techno-babble is fine but mind numbing to most of us. And misused, can send newbies down incorrect paths. You are an accomplished aliasing detective. What do your eyes tell you about resolution? (Rhetorical)

Can you really detect the difference in a few lines of resolution by eyesight? (Context: your question above.)
My question was - why is the difference so small between f/2.8 and f/4? Hint: diffraction (+AA filter).
 
You and Bob are now being argumentative (on different tangents). Is there not a difference between diffraction being present and diffraction being visibly detrimental to an image?
With really good lenses, diffraction actually improves your image at apertures like f/4 or so - without it, aliasing would be ugly, I guess (on a Bayer sensor).
Or you could thump your tripod while shooting.

My observation being that at 100% view in center frame, f2.8 is as sharp as the lens gets. f4 and f5.6 were indistinguishable from f2.8 to my eye.
Without diffraction, they would be distinguishable. Of course, I realize that this does not make sense since I do not know how to remove diffraction from waves.
We have gone from diffraction being detrimental to you saying that diffraction is helpful which actually helps my point through the back door.

By f8, there was a slight softening, and by f11, diffraction was clearly approaching detrimental levels, IMO of course. Nobody is saying that diffraction isn't present from the get-go or at f4 but nobody but geeks care about that. What folks want to know is when and where does diffraction become a problem for their particular applications. I recommend that they use their eyes instead of charts.

Here's where I got some of my initial information about diffraction:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/22067611

Mostly math related.

Lucky for me, Mike actually calculated the smallest desirable aperture (I am sure you will nitpick my description of 'desirable') as 12.64 which I have rounded up to f13. So, you will find an f13 shot in every comparison I have done since then.

Here's an interesting article posted via CR.

https://fstoppers.com/education/5ds-f11-and-confusing-circles-68177

What do you think about the info at these two links? (Not a trap.)
Misinformation.
Care to expand on this scintillating response? :)

In the graph below, without diffraction, the curve would go straight up. It has zero slope at f/4 because of the diffraction. Actually, if you model diffraction and aberrations, then add them according to the "Kodak formula", you would get that at f/4 diffraction and aberrations have equal strength in this example; not only equal derivatives as functions of aperture.
This techno-babble is fine but mind numbing to most of us. And misused, can send newbies down incorrect paths. You are an accomplished aliasing detective. What do your eyes tell you about resolution? (Rhetorical)

Can you really detect the difference in a few lines of resolution by eyesight? (Context: your question above.)
My question was - why is the difference so small between f/2.8 and f/4? Hint: diffraction (+AA filter).
My answer: Hint: Nobody cares because the difference is so small. The gist of this conversation began at f11. Can you address f11 or to frame it another way, DoF and corner-related aberration issues notwithstanding, f5.6 or f11? C'mon you can do it.
 
You and Bob are now being argumentative (on different tangents). Is there not a difference between diffraction being present and diffraction being visibly detrimental to an image?
With really good lenses, diffraction actually improves your image at apertures like f/4 or so - without it, aliasing would be ugly, I guess (on a Bayer sensor).
Or you could thump your tripod while shooting.
My observation being that at 100% view in center frame, f2.8 is as sharp as the lens gets. f4 and f5.6 were indistinguishable from f2.8 to my eye.
Without diffraction, they would be distinguishable. Of course, I realize that this does not make sense since I do not know how to remove diffraction from waves.
We have gone from diffraction being detrimental to you saying that diffraction is helpful which actually helps my point through the back door.
By f8, there was a slight softening, and by f11, diffraction was clearly approaching detrimental levels, IMO of course. Nobody is saying that diffraction isn't present from the get-go or at f4 but nobody but geeks care about that. What folks want to know is when and where does diffraction become a problem for their particular applications. I recommend that they use their eyes instead of charts.

Here's where I got some of my initial information about diffraction:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/22067611

Mostly math related.

Lucky for me, Mike actually calculated the smallest desirable aperture (I am sure you will nitpick my description of 'desirable') as 12.64 which I have rounded up to f13. So, you will find an f13 shot in every comparison I have done since then.

Here's an interesting article posted via CR.

https://fstoppers.com/education/5ds-f11-and-confusing-circles-68177

What do you think about the info at these two links? (Not a trap.)
Misinformation.
Care to expand on this scintillating response? :)
I do not even know where to start. Here is just a part of the second paragraph:
On a 5D Mark III, the size of the Airy Disk begins to exceed the size of the circle of confusion just after f/11.
Which CoC? The usual one used in the DOF calculations? How is that dependent on the pixel size of the 5D3?
This means the 5D Mark III reaches its diffraction limit at that point, the point at which diffraction begins to become visible
The idea that diffraction suddenly becomes visible at some aperture is naïve by itself and the whole statement does not make sense.
when viewing an image at 100% at a typical viewing distance.
What is 100% view? If on a screen - on a phone or on a 75" TV? What is 100% on a print?
This is different from the diffraction cutoff frequency, the point at which airy disks completely merge and no amount of stopping down will improve resolution.
Airy disks (with different centers) never merge. Cutoff frequency is related to the FT of the diffraction pattern.
Think of the space between the diffraction limit and the cutoff frequency as the space of diminishing returns.
What space? He never defined "diffraction limit" and he defined wrongly the cutoff frequency.
On the other hand, the 5DS reaches its diffraction limit just before f/8,
If he says so...
slightly over a full stop sooner than the 5D Mark III. This might have landscape photographers and those who rely on having a large depth of field worried.
They should shoot with the 5D then.
 
Across the frame and at the center, f11 is sharpest for the 12-24 lens

As I understand, diffraction is correlated to the physical size of the aperture opening, rather than apparent aperture. So lens design can play a role, right?
Let's proceed from a different perspective. The following chart is what Bob claims is a better way to illustrate my point. Okay. This chart was shot with the 24 MP D3x and the Zeiss Otus 55mm f1.4. To my way of reading this chart, f5.6 has the best mixture of center to edge performance. Center performance looks to be at about 48 lpmm but edge looks to be about 41 lpmm which beat some pimes' center performance. f11 looks pretty darn good on this graph but if you are comparing images at 100%, you will see the diff between f5.6 & f11.

All I am saying is to look for similar quality in terms center/corner resolution spread at wider apertures.

Speaking of perspective, the difference between f1.4 and f5.6 on this chart looks huge right? Check out actual photographs of the same two apertures.

The Digital Picture Zeiss Otus 55mm @ f1.4 vs. f5.6

Zeiss Otus 55/1.4
Zeiss Otus 55/1.4

--
Rick Knepper, photographer, shooting for pleasure. I use tools, not brands. It is better to have It and not need It than need It and not have It. Mystery Gardner: "Rick, you have a passion for photography but not a position. That's a good thing." Based on 2014 keepers, I shot the following percentages: 5D3=42%, D800=31%, 6D=25% & D3x=2%. Various RAW comparisons at Link below. Includes 5D3 vs D800E (new uploads), 5D3 vs. 6D, Zeiss lenses etc. https://app.box.com/s/71w40ita6hrcfghojaie
 
After shooting FF and MFT for a while, I think the claim that MFT is sharper wide open is a myth. I'm comparing a variety of MFT primes I've owned (Oly 12/17/25/45/75) vs. the newer Nikon 1.8G primes or the Canon IS primes (forget the Nikon/Canon lenses from the 90s/early 2000s, those were designed in another era). The files from FF bodies with the newer non-pro lenses have more and cleaner detail than the MFT lenses. When lenses on both are stopped down it's no contest in favor of FF. Don't get me wrong, MFT is still great for the size and weight (in fact I only shoot MFT right now) but IQ does not compare.
 
You and Bob are now being argumentative (on different tangents). Is there not a difference between diffraction being present and diffraction being visibly detrimental to an image?
With really good lenses, diffraction actually improves your image at apertures like f/4 or so - without it, aliasing would be ugly, I guess (on a Bayer sensor).
Or you could thump your tripod while shooting.
My observation being that at 100% view in center frame, f2.8 is as sharp as the lens gets. f4 and f5.6 were indistinguishable from f2.8 to my eye.
Without diffraction, they would be distinguishable. Of course, I realize that this does not make sense since I do not know how to remove diffraction from waves.
We have gone from diffraction being detrimental to you saying that diffraction is helpful which actually helps my point through the back door.
By f8, there was a slight softening, and by f11, diffraction was clearly approaching detrimental levels, IMO of course. Nobody is saying that diffraction isn't present from the get-go or at f4 but nobody but geeks care about that. What folks want to know is when and where does diffraction become a problem for their particular applications. I recommend that they use their eyes instead of charts.

Here's where I got some of my initial information about diffraction:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/22067611

Mostly math related.

Lucky for me, Mike actually calculated the smallest desirable aperture (I am sure you will nitpick my description of 'desirable') as 12.64 which I have rounded up to f13. So, you will find an f13 shot in every comparison I have done since then.

Here's an interesting article posted via CR.

https://fstoppers.com/education/5ds-f11-and-confusing-circles-68177

What do you think about the info at these two links? (Not a trap.)
Misinformation.
Care to expand on this scintillating response? :)
I do not even know where to start. Here is just a part of the second paragraph:
On a 5D Mark III, the size of the Airy Disk begins to exceed the size of the circle of confusion just after f/11.
Which CoC? The usual one used in the DOF calculations? How is that dependent on the pixel size of the 5D3?
This means the 5D Mark III reaches its diffraction limit at that point, the point at which diffraction begins to become visible
The idea that diffraction suddenly becomes visible at some aperture is naïve by itself and the whole statement does not make sense.
when viewing an image at 100% at a typical viewing distance.
What is 100% view? If on a screen - on a phone or on a 75" TV? What is 100% on a print?
This is different from the diffraction cutoff frequency, the point at which airy disks completely merge and no amount of stopping down will improve resolution.
Airy disks (with different centers) never merge. Cutoff frequency is related to the FT of the diffraction pattern.
Think of the space between the diffraction limit and the cutoff frequency as the space of diminishing returns.
What space? He never defined "diffraction limit" and he defined wrongly the cutoff frequency.
On the other hand, the 5DS reaches its diffraction limit just before f/8,
If he says so...
slightly over a full stop sooner than the 5D Mark III. This might have landscape photographers and those who rely on having a large depth of field worried.
They should shoot with the 5D then.
In fact the two sources are saying completely different things, something to which Rick seems oblivious. In the first, Mike Davis says 'There are three variables affecting the aperture at which the degredation caused by diffraction begins to inhibit our desired print resolution: The viewing distance AND the desired print resolution AND the enlargement factor. That's all, Nothing more, and nothing less.'. I wouldn't disagree with that, except maybe to add a fourth, 'one's individual tolerance of blurriness'. He emphasises the point 'There are so many possible combinations of these variables that any attempt to state that diffraction will become "visible" at some constant aperture f/N is ludicrous.' Yet somehow Rick credits him for doing something that he says himself is 'ludicrous'. What Mike actually did was calculate what would be the diffraction imposed resolution at f/11 for a 19x13 print and found the answer to be 4.7pp/mm, which was adjusted to be 'acceptable' (partially because it matches what a 5D would do on a print that size).

The second is typical of those damaged by the McHugh theory and calculator, which seems to think that you have to set a CoC at twice the pixel size, and suddenly at that CoC diffraction becomes 'visible', which is simply a nonsense.

Rick doesn't seem very clear which point of view he's arguing for and against (the fact that he presents two opposing points of view as mutually supportive suggests this). This might be why the discussion gets a little diffuse. It's well past its diffraction limit - needs the detail sharpening up.
 
After shooting FF and MFT for a while, I think the claim that MFT is sharper wide open is a myth. I'm comparing a variety of MFT primes I've owned (Oly 12/17/25/45/75) vs. the newer Nikon 1.8G primes or the Canon IS primes (forget the Nikon/Canon lenses from the 90s/early 2000s, those were designed in another era). The files from FF bodies with the newer non-pro lenses have more and cleaner detail than the MFT lenses. When lenses on both are stopped down it's no contest in favor of FF. Don't get me wrong, MFT is still great for the size and weight (in fact I only shoot MFT right now) but IQ does not compare.
After shooting FF and MFT I say the complete opposite of what you say!

For instance, plenty of independent tests show the Oly 75mm lens as at least equal to the Canon 135mm which is regarded by many as the sharpest AF prime in the system.


The only conclusion I have is that you either are a really bad photographer, or you are lying...

:-)
 
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After shooting FF and MFT for a while, I think the claim that MFT is sharper wide open is a myth. I'm comparing a variety of MFT primes I've owned (Oly 12/17/25/45/75) vs. the newer Nikon 1.8G primes or the Canon IS primes (forget the Nikon/Canon lenses from the 90s/early 2000s, those were designed in another era). The files from FF bodies with the newer non-pro lenses have more and cleaner detail than the MFT lenses. When lenses on both are stopped down it's no contest in favor of FF. Don't get me wrong, MFT is still great for the size and weight (in fact I only shoot MFT right now) but IQ does not compare.
After shooting FF and MFT I say the complete opposite of what you say!

For instance, plenty of independent tests show the Oly 75mm lens as at least equal to the Canon 135mm which is regarded by many as the sharpest AF prime in the system.

https://tysonrobichaudphotography.wordpress.com/2013/05/28/olympus-75mm-f1-8-vs-canon-135-f2-l/

The only conclusion I have is that you either are a really bad photographer, or you are lying...

:-)
Nothing you say contradicts what I wrote. Pretty lame to end your post with a meaningless ad hominem.

The 135L was released back in 1996. I've owned both the Oly 75 and 135L and consider them both excellent. If Canon were to redesign it for the digital age, they could probably design it to be even better.
 
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