I need the equivalency squad :-)

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I just shot some indoor fast action sports (badly lit gym etc.) on a crop body (Canon 50D, but not very relevant to my question). I shot at 50mm and f/1.8, but needed ISO6400 to maintain my minimum 1/640 shutter speed and achieve a correct exposure.

Now for my newbie question. If I would make the same (angle-of-view) shot on a 'full frame' body with the same settings (so in this case: 80mm, f/1.8, 1.640s, ISO6400), would I have the same exposure? In other words: is the only benefit that FF would offer me in this situation that its high ISO RAWs look better?

By the way, I'm not saying that would be an insignificant difference: it may in fact be enough by far. I'm just wondering if the fact that the pixels are larger and/or the fact that the photo is not strictly equivalent because of DOF difference would somehow affect exposure.
 
Solution
I just shot some indoor fast action sports (badly lit gym etc.) on a crop body (Canon 50D, but not very relevant to my question). I shot at 50mm and f/1.8, but needed ISO6400 to maintain my minimum 1/640 shutter speed and achieve a correct exposure.

Now for my newbie question. If I would make the same (angle-of-view) shot on a 'full frame' body with the same settings (so in this case: 80mm, f/1.8, 1.640s, ISO6400), would I have the same exposure? In other words: is the only benefit that FF would offer me in this situation that its high ISO RAWs look better?

By the way, I'm not saying that would be an insignificant difference: it may in fact be enough by far. I'm just wondering if the fact that the pixels are larger and/or the fact...
I just shot some indoor fast action sports (badly lit gym etc.) on a crop body (Canon 50D, but not very relevant to my question). I shot at 50mm and f/1.8, but needed ISO6400 to maintain my minimum 1/640 shutter speed and achieve a correct exposure.

Now for my newbie question. If I would make the same (angle-of-view) shot on a 'full frame' body with the same settings (so in this case: 80mm, f/1.8, 1.640s, ISO6400), would I have the same exposure? In other words: is the only benefit that FF would offer me in this situation that its high ISO RAWs look better?

By the way, I'm not saying that would be an insignificant difference: it may in fact be enough by far. I'm just wondering if the fact that the pixels are larger and/or the fact that the photo is not strictly equivalent because of DOF difference would somehow affect exposure.
Yes, the exposure will be identical if you use the same ISO. Doesn't matter what camera or lens or brand you use, the ambient light is the same. Also, DOF has nothing to do with exposure.

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Solution
Exposure is the same no matter the size of the sensor: that’s why exposure is defined the way it is, so that it will work with all cameras.

The caveat is that different lenses have different transmittance of light, but this has nothing to do with equivalence or depth of field.
 
Thanks guys! This may help determine my next lens purchase. I'm pulling the trigger on a D750 tomorrow, and now I know that the f/4 kit lens will be insufficient for this indoor action sports purpose: at 2 1/3rd stops slower, I'd have to push ISO out of its native range to 25,600 which, even on this magical sony sensor, probably isn't much to look at.

So my answer is a 2.8 zoom. I'm pretty confident ISO 12,800 on a D750 will look substantially nicer than ISO 6,400 on a 50D. Unfortunately the 50D is no longer in the new studio comparison :-)
 
Wow--you are shooting in a seriously crummy gym! My sympathies. I can generally get away with f/2.8, 1/500 sec. at ISO 3200 or even 1600.

By the way, I'm sure the Nikon D750 will be a huge step up! I love my 5D III bodies, but I wouldn't mind having a more advanced sensor.

--
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http://craighartley.zenfolio.com/
 
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I just shot some indoor fast action sports (badly lit gym etc.) on a crop body (Canon 50D, but not very relevant to my question). I shot at 50mm and f/1.8, but needed ISO6400 to maintain my minimum 1/640 shutter speed and achieve a correct exposure.

Now for my newbie question. If I would make the same (angle-of-view) shot on a 'full frame' body with the same settings (so in this case: 80mm, f/1.8, 1.640s, ISO6400), would I have the same exposure? In other words: is the only benefit that FF would offer me in this situation that its high ISO RAWs look better?
If you had a full frame dSLR. It would have gathered one more stop of total light from the f/1.8 and 1/640 exposure. While the cameras ISO setting would still have been ISO 6400, the amount of amplification required by the full frame camera would have been less. So the photos taken with a full frame camera would have the same amount of noise (or less) as your 50D at ISO 3200.

The depth of field would have been shallower too. That may or may not be a factor in your photos.
By the way, I'm not saying that would be an insignificant difference: it may in fact be enough by far. I'm just wondering if the fact that the pixels are larger and/or the fact that the photo is not strictly equivalent because of DOF difference would somehow affect exposure.
 
Thanks guys! This may help determine my next lens purchase. I'm pulling the trigger on a D750 tomorrow, and now I know that the f/4 kit lens will be insufficient for this indoor action sports purpose: at 2 1/3rd stops slower, I'd have to push ISO out of its native range to 25,600 which, even on this magical sony sensor, probably isn't much to look at.
An f/4 lens takes away all of the advantage and then some of going to a full frame camera. You'll actually be over one stop worse than your 50D with a f/1.8 lens.
So my answer is a 2.8 zoom. I'm pretty confident ISO 12,800 on a D750 will look substantially nicer than ISO 6,400 on a 50D.
At f/2.8 you will be at ISO 16,000 to equal an f/1.8 lens at ISO 6400
Unfortunately the 50D is no longer in the new studio comparison :-)
You might consider the 7D Mk II with its light flicker synchronization.

Does the Canon EOS 7D Mark II's Anti-Flicker Mode Really Work?

And keep using your f/1.8 lens.

--
All statements in my posts represent my interpretation of data, research opinion or viewpoints.
The opinions expressed are not representations of fact, and are subject to change without notice.
All images are used for educational purposes.
 
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I just shot some indoor fast action sports (badly lit gym etc.) on a crop body (Canon 50D, but not very relevant to my question). I shot at 50mm and f/1.8, but needed ISO6400 to maintain my minimum 1/640 shutter speed and achieve a correct exposure.

Now for my newbie question. If I would make the same (angle-of-view) shot on a 'full frame' body with the same settings (so in this case: 80mm, f/1.8, 1.640s, ISO6400), would I have the same exposure?
Yes, and the ISO is irrelevant.
In other words: is the only benefit that FF would offer me in this situation that its high ISO RAWs look better?
DOF would be shallower, which might be a plus or a minus. But you can always stop down the FF and you cannot open more the crop combo.
 
Wow, this is turning into a very interesting thread (for me anyway ;-). First of all: thanks for chiming in everyone. Some responses:

@Hotdog 321:
Wow--you are shooting in a seriously crummy gym! My sympathies. I can generally get away with f/2.8, 1/500 sec. at ISO 3200 or even 1600.
Yes, crummy is right. No natural light at all, dark walls, and fluorescent tube lights that are, for some idiotic reason, fitted in plastic cases that lower the available light and, I imagine, were white at some point in the 1970s. What also doesn't help is that 1/500 tends to be too slow if I want to stop the swords as well as the combatants (I'm shooting sword fighting ;-). Also, the combatants are dressed in all black. I have an OK exposure at ISO3200 (i.e. correctly exposed background) but then the combatants are basically silhouettes - I want to be able to see the fabric of their protective gear, the way their arms mode, and maybe even a hint of a facial expression through the mesh of their fencing masks. All without flash, of course (I can get away with it during training, but not matches).

@TTMartin:
If you had a full frame dSLR. It would have gathered one more stop of total light from the f/1.8 and 1/640 exposure. While the cameras ISO setting would still have been ISO 6400, the amount of amplification required by the full frame camera would have been less. So the photos taken with a full frame camera would have the same amount of noise (or less) as your 50D at ISO 3200.
That one extra stop is 'simply' the result of the physically larger sensor, no? I guess I was hoping for even less noise (>1 stop) due to a newer generation of sensor, as well (2014 Nikon D750 vs. 2008 Canon 50D). Is that unrealistic?
An f/4 lens takes away all of the advantage and then some of going to a full frame camera. You'll actually be over one stop worse than your 50D with a f/1.8 lens.
Yes. Like many seeking to upgrade to FF for the first time, I guess I was expecting miracles.
At f/2.8 you will be at ISO 16,000 to equal an f/1.8 lens at ISO 6400
Also correct: I 'forgot' about the third stop between f/1.8 and f/2.0 in my 'calculation'.
You might consider the 7D Mk II with its light flicker synchronization.

Does the Canon EOS 7D Mark II's Anti-Flicker Mode Really Work?

And keep using your f/1.8 lens.
I have seriously considered the 7D mkII. The auto flicker mode seems useful: I do experience uneven exposures within bursts. If I were exclusively shooting (outdoor) sports, I guess it'd be a no-brainer (especially on a budget). I'd even be able to keep my current lenses. But to me, there's two things that make the mkII less desirable:

(1) I'm not entirely convinced that it would be a sufficient improvement in high ISO compared to my current setup: in this gym, I'd still be shooting at ISO6400 and frankly, looking at the studio scene, that doesn't look too impressive (maybe 1 stop better than my 50D).

(2) As an amateur, I plan on having one body which should serve other purposes as well (actually, primarily other purposes). None of those other purposes are outdoor sports or wildlife/birds, so the value of the 7D mk II (over e.g. a D750) seems to be mostly a better AF system (useful for 1 of my activities) for which I sacrifice resolution, dynamic range etc.

My 1.8 primes are actually insufficient for this very specific purpose also (although I absolutely LOVE them in general): the 50mm f/1.8 seems to be the perfect focal distance, but focuses too slowly for fast action. The 85mm f/1.8 is certainly fast enough, but it's too tele: there's only so much space in a gym before a wall blocks your 'feet zooming' :-).
 
The DOF has to do with the exposure because it is dependent of focal length and aperture.

If the distance to the subject is the same, aperture is the same and you will frame the same (80 mm on FF and 50 mm on Canon 50D) the DOF will be less on FF.

E.g. if the distance to the subject is 15 m you will have a DOF of 6.4 m with Canon 50D and 3.8 m with Canon 5D. Nothing dramatic but there is a change.

Unfortunately Canon 50D has a sensor that is not very good at high ISO and current offerings are not dramatically better. I would rather go for f/1.4 lens to reduce a little bit the ISO (ISO 4000 vs. ISO 6400). I guess this route would be cheaper.

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If you are accustomed with 50 mm f/1.8 then you can get also the 85 mm f/1.8 that will be also a very good portrait lens. If you don't need a zoom why investing so much in it. Of course the zoom will be more convenient but you lose 1.33 stops with it.
 
Wow, this is turning into a very interesting thread (for me anyway ;-). First of all: thanks for chiming in everyone. Some responses:

@TTMartin:
If you had a full frame dSLR. It would have gathered one more stop of total light from the f/1.8 and 1/640 exposure. While the cameras ISO setting would still have been ISO 6400, the amount of amplification required by the full frame camera would have been less. So the photos taken with a full frame camera would have the same amount of noise (or less) as your 50D at ISO 3200.
That one extra stop is 'simply' the result of the physically larger sensor, no? I guess I was hoping for even less noise (>1 stop) due to a newer generation of sensor, as well (2014 Nikon D750 vs. 2008 Canon 50D). Is that unrealistic?
According to sensorgen.info the 50D has a quantum efficiency of 48%, and the 7D Mk II 59%.

Also according to sensorgen.info 700D has a quantum efficiency of 34%, and the 750D 51%.

So the answer to your question is yes and yes. Most of the improvement between the 50D and 750D will be from sensor size. But, as you can see sensor efficiency has improved with newer generations of sensors.

It is important to recognize that at higher ISOs Canon sensors are very competitive. It is only at low ISOs where you will see a difference in dynamic range.

And the times that makes a difference in real world photography is few and far between. Search your current photos for ones taken at ISO 100 where you needed to push the shadows. I did and found it was about 1 in 10,000. Where I wished I had more dynamic range was at ISO 3200 and above, and there really isn't a difference in Canon's dynamic range at those ISOs.
An f/4 lens takes away all of the advantage and then some of going to a full frame camera. You'll actually be over one stop worse than your 50D with a f/1.8 lens.
Yes. Like many seeking to upgrade to FF for the first time, I guess I was expecting miracles.
At f/2.8 you will be at ISO 16,000 to equal an f/1.8 lens at ISO 6400
Also correct: I 'forgot' about the third stop between f/1.8 and f/2.0 in my 'calculation'.
You might consider the 7D Mk II with its light flicker synchronization.

Does the Canon EOS 7D Mark II's Anti-Flicker Mode Really Work?

And keep using your f/1.8 lens.
I have seriously considered the 7D mkII. The auto flicker mode seems useful: I do experience uneven exposures within bursts. If I were exclusively shooting (outdoor) sports, I guess it'd be a no-brainer (especially on a budget). I'd even be able to keep my current lenses. But to me, there's two things that make the mkII less desirable:

(1) I'm not entirely convinced that it would be a sufficient improvement in high ISO compared to my current setup: in this gym, I'd still be shooting at ISO6400 and frankly, looking at the studio scene, that doesn't look too impressive (maybe 1 stop better than my 50D).
Due to the 40 million photosites of the 7D Mk II the noise is very fine and even much like film grain. This means the noise cleans up easily and less noise reduction is needed. So while looking at RAW files it may appear you are only gaining one stop, in actuality it is closer to two stops.
(2) As an amateur, I plan on having one body which should serve other purposes as well (actually, primarily other purposes). None of those other purposes are outdoor sports or wildlife/birds, so the value of the 7D mk II (over e.g. a D750) seems to be mostly a better AF system (useful for 1 of my activities) for which I sacrifice resolution, dynamic range etc.
The frame coverage of the cross type focus points of the 7D Mk II is a benefit for more than just sports and wildlife. With cross type focus points out to the rule of thirds in both landscape and portrait orientations it means there isn't a need to focus and recompose. This is a bonus for portrait photography too.
My 1.8 primes are actually insufficient for this very specific purpose also (although I absolutely LOVE them in general): the 50mm f/1.8 seems to be the perfect focal distance, but focuses too slowly for fast action.
There are a couple of faster focusing quality 50mm primes available. The Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM Lens is a reasonably priced alternative. And the Sigma 311101 50mm F1.4 DG HSM Art Lens which DPR gave a 92% Gold Award and was voted Best lens of 2014 in the DPR reader's choice awards.
The 85mm f/1.8 is certainly fast enough, but it's too tele: there's only so much space in a gym before a wall blocks your 'feet zooming' :-).
FWIW, it appears that Amazon has pulled the sale of new D750s, presumably due to the banded flare issue.
 
Thanks guys! This may help determine my next lens purchase. I'm pulling the trigger on a D750 tomorrow, and now I know that the f/4 kit lens will be insufficient for this indoor action sports purpose: at 2 1/3rd stops slower, I'd have to push ISO out of its native range to 25,600 which, even on this magical sony sensor, probably isn't much to look at.
An f/4 lens takes away all of the advantage and then some of going to a full frame camera. You'll actually be over one stop worse than your 50D with a f/1.8 lens.
So my answer is a 2.8 zoom. I'm pretty confident ISO 12,800 on a D750 will look substantially nicer than ISO 6,400 on a 50D.
At f/2.8 you will be at ISO 16,000 to equal an f/1.8 lens at ISO 6400
Unfortunately the 50D is no longer in the new studio comparison :-)
You might consider the 7D Mk II with its light flicker synchronization.

Does the Canon EOS 7D Mark II's Anti-Flicker Mode Really Work?

And keep using your f/1.8 lens.

--
All statements in my posts represent my interpretation of data, research opinion or viewpoints.
The opinions expressed are not representations of fact, and are subject to change without notice.
All images are used for educational purposes.
WOW! This is the first I've heard of the anti-flicker mode on the 7D II--I didn't even know such a thing existed. That's freaking awesome for folks shooting sports under vapor lamps.

--
photojournalist
http://craighartley.zenfolio.com/
 
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Thanks guys! This may help determine my next lens purchase. I'm pulling the trigger on a D750 tomorrow, and now I know that the f/4 kit lens will be insufficient for this indoor action sports purpose: at 2 1/3rd stops slower, I'd have to push ISO out of its native range to 25,600 which, even on this magical sony sensor, probably isn't much to look at.
An f/4 lens takes away all of the advantage and then some of going to a full frame camera. You'll actually be over one stop worse than your 50D with a f/1.8 lens.
So my answer is a 2.8 zoom. I'm pretty confident ISO 12,800 on a D750 will look substantially nicer than ISO 6,400 on a 50D.
At f/2.8 you will be at ISO 16,000 to equal an f/1.8 lens at ISO 6400
Unfortunately the 50D is no longer in the new studio comparison :-)
You might consider the 7D Mk II with its light flicker synchronization.

Does the Canon EOS 7D Mark II's Anti-Flicker Mode Really Work?

And keep using your f/1.8 lens.
WOW! This is the first I've heard of the anti-flicker mode on the 7D II--I didn't even know such a thing existed. That's freaking awesome for folks shooting sports under vapor lamps.
It really is. The amount of post processing time it will save is phenomenal. Anyone who has had to go through and use a different custom white balance on each of their indoor sports pictures will appreciate it.

Also since it takes the photo at the peak of light intensity, it actually means you have more light available for your exposure.
 
@TTMartin:
If you had a full frame dSLR. It would have gathered one more stop of total light from the f/1.8 and 1/640 exposure. While the cameras ISO setting would still have been ISO 6400, the amount of amplification required by the full frame camera would have been less. So the photos taken with a full frame camera would have the same amount of noise (or less) as your 50D at ISO 3200.
That one extra stop is 'simply' the result of the physically larger sensor, no?
Mainly, yes. The larger sensor size in this case is worth just over a stop.
I guess I was hoping for even less noise (>1 stop) due to a newer generation of sensor, as well (2014 Nikon D750 vs. 2008 Canon 50D). Is that unrealistic?
Keep in mind that one 'stop' is a factor-of-two difference. As TT showed with some sensor efficiency figures, there is still generational improvement, but it's hard to get 2x more efficiency at this point in the technology!
(1) I'm not entirely convinced that it would be a sufficient improvement in high ISO compared to my current setup: in this gym, I'd still be shooting at ISO6400 and frankly, looking at the studio scene, that doesn't look too impressive (maybe 1 stop better than my 50D).
If you think about the price and size difference between an f/2.8 zoom lens and an f/4 lens, one stop is actually a lot.

The thing that people tend to forget with full frame (or any sensor size upgrade) is that you have to pay for the sensor and you have to pay for the glass to make use of that sensor.
 

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