Don't be afraid of Shuttershock : here's why

It will be interesting to see how the GM1 performs in this regard. But it has to be said its quite off putting for some one thinking about moving to the system. I have to say that I've only ever experienced mirror slap on my dslr at under 1/8 of a second on a tripod. Shutter delay as a solution is terrible. What about the moment?
 
That's one of the multiple theories to explain shuttershock, which apparently could be caused by various sources of shutter vibrations, according to many tests by many forum users.

In practice, while it cannot prevent it at 100%, Anti-Shock helps to reduce the occurence of Shutter Shock. That's tested and confirmed by multiple users.

Edit : My OP was not about what cause shuttershock, but about 3 important things :
  1. Shuttershock exist and it's normal, it's not a defect
  2. Anti-Shock 1/8s is a good way to reduce shuttershock
  3. You can avoid Shuttershock if you learn to know your camera (avoid some shutterspeeds with particular lenses)
  4. If you accidentally get shuttershock, no worries, there are solutions to heal your picture. Just don't pixel peep too much
If you do not understand the very processes that happen inside the camera - why are you trying to discuss the phenomenon and cures for it???

"multiple theories", right....

1) Shuttershock exist by design with focal plane shutters, but it's still a defect. Poor shutter design (or malfunction / assembly mishap) to blame. Some shutters that are much softer than others.

2) 1/8s "anti-shock" does not help against the most destructing event - first curtain hard stop during exposure.

3) Yes, you can work around but you will lose an important range of shutter speeds (especially important for indoors shooting w/o flash)

4) Sometimes image is degraded to the level it can't be healed. And "healing" means you'll lose the resolution big time. Why not shoot with 2MP camera instead?
Very good summary! I agree in every respect.
 
That's one of the multiple theories to explain shuttershock, which apparently could be caused by various sources of shutter vibrations, according to many tests by many forum users.

In practice, while it cannot prevent it at 100%, Anti-Shock helps to reduce the occurence of Shutter Shock. That's tested and confirmed by multiple users.

Edit : My OP was not about what cause shuttershock, but about 3 important things :
  1. Shuttershock exist and it's normal, it's not a defect
  2. Anti-Shock 1/8s is a good way to reduce shuttershock
  3. You can avoid Shuttershock if you learn to know your camera (avoid some shutterspeeds with particular lenses)
  4. If you accidentally get shuttershock, no worries, there are solutions to heal your picture. Just don't pixel peep too much
If you do not understand the very processes that happen inside the camera - why are you trying to discuss the phenomenon and cures for it???

"multiple theories", right....

1) Shuttershock exist by design with focal plane shutters, but it's still a defect. Poor shutter design (or malfunction / assembly mishap) to blame. Some shutters that are much softer than others.

2) 1/8s "anti-shock" does not help against the most destructing event - first curtain hard stop during exposure.

3) Yes, you can work around but you will lose an important range of shutter speeds (especially important for indoors shooting w/o flash)

4) Sometimes image is degraded to the level it can't be healed. And "healing" means you'll lose the resolution big time. Why not shoot with 2MP camera instead?
Very good summary! I agree in every respect.
I'm not surprised :-) Actually, I wondered when you would chime in. It's done :-)

And yes, I'm interested about what you think.

--
Cheers,
Frederic
http://azurphoto.com/blog/
 
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I shoot mostly wildlife with m43 and shutter shock has a big impact on how much I can crop. You definitely need to watch your shutterspeed and/or take bursts so that you have at least one sharp shot to crop.
 
Shuttershock is normal.
indeed, what is not normal and what you apparently fail to comprehend that in some cases with IS (IBIS, OIS) you have blur @ exposure speeds that 'd be otherwise perfectly safe (w/ a great margin of safety) on a camera w/ any moving/suspended parts... like you know shooting P20/1.7 @ 1/200...
 
Shuttershock is normal.
indeed, what is not normal and what you apparently fail to comprehend that in some cases with IS (IBIS, OIS) you have blur @ exposure speeds that 'd be otherwise perfectly safe (w/ a great margin of safety) on a camera w/ any moving/suspended parts... like you know shooting P20/1.7 @ 1/200...
Interesting. I've never encountered this issue nor read about it. Maybe I spend too much time taking pictures and not enough time reading the forum :-)
--
Cheers,

Frederic
 
Manufacturers are aware of the unavoidable "Shuttershock" and "Mirror Shock". They include a feature in their camera to reduce the vibrations of the shutter/mirror. It's called "Mirror Lockup" or "MLU" ia a DSLR, and "Anti-Schock" in a Mirrorless camera. They work pretty good when enabled.
Isn't what you call "Shuttershock" a phenomenon caused by the shutter itself?
Not by the shutter itself but by the vibrations produced by the shutter when released.
No. That's not correct. To the extent tested, the blur results from the shock due to shutter action rather than by vibrations. Two different things physically speaking.

If yes then how the Anti-Schock option has anything to do with it? I ask this because I think Anti-Schock option has nothing to do with the shutter itself. It has to do with the time between the shutter button press and the actual shutter release. At least that is what I understand from the Olympus' instruction manuals (here from the EM1 manual):

Anti-Shock:

Choose the delay between the shutter button being pressed and the shutter being released.
This diminishes camera shake caused by vibrations. This feature is useful in situations such as microscope photography and astrophotography. It is also useful for sequential shooting (P. 55) and self timer photography (P. 55)
 
That's one of the multiple theories to explain shuttershock, which apparently could be caused by various sources of shutter vibrations, according to many tests by many forum users.

In practice, while it cannot prevent it at 100%, Anti-Shock helps to reduce the occurence of Shutter Shock. That's tested and confirmed by multiple users.

Edit : My OP was not about what cause shuttershock, but about 3 important things :
  1. Shuttershock exist and it's normal, it's not a defect
  2. Anti-Shock 1/8s is a good way to reduce shuttershock
  3. You can avoid Shuttershock if you learn to know your camera (avoid some shutterspeeds with particular lenses)
  4. If you accidentally get shuttershock, no worries, there are solutions to heal your picture. Just don't pixel peep too much
If you do not understand the very processes that happen inside the camera - why are you trying to discuss the phenomenon and cures for it???

"multiple theories", right....

1) Shuttershock exist by design with focal plane shutters, but it's still a defect. Poor shutter design (or malfunction / assembly mishap) to blame. Some shutters that are much softer than others.

2) 1/8s "anti-shock" does not help against the most destructing event - first curtain hard stop during exposure.

3) Yes, you can work around but you will lose an important range of shutter speeds (especially important for indoors shooting w/o flash)

4) Sometimes image is degraded to the level it can't be healed. And "healing" means you'll lose the resolution big time. Why not shoot with 2MP camera instead?
Very good summary! I agree in every respect.
I'm not surprised :-) Actually, I wondered when you would chime in. It's done :-)

And yes, I'm interested about what you think.
Well, I think just what Alien from Mars already said. So he saved me most of the trouble. :-)

But I just posted a reply to you on the question of vibration, which, as far as we can now tell, is not the key mechanism (at least not as a rule).
 
Shuttershock is normal.
indeed, what is not normal and what you apparently fail to comprehend that in some cases with IS (IBIS, OIS) you have blur @ exposure speeds that 'd be otherwise perfectly safe (w/ a great margin of safety) on a camera w/ any moving/suspended parts... like you know shooting P20/1.7 @ 1/200...
Interesting. I've never encountered this issue nor read about it. Maybe I spend too much time taking pictures and not enough time reading the forum :-)
true... and hell lot of people were perfectly fine w/ a notion that Earth if flat some time ago... it "was" indeed for their humble purposes...
 
Shuttershock is normal.
indeed, what is not normal and what you apparently fail to comprehend that in some cases with IS (IBIS, OIS) you have blur @ exposure speeds that 'd be otherwise perfectly safe (w/ a great margin of safety) on a camera w/ any moving/suspended parts... like you know shooting P20/1.7 @ 1/200...
Interesting. I've never encountered this issue nor read about it. Maybe I spend too much time taking pictures and not enough time reading the forum :-)
true... and hell lot of people were perfectly fine w/ a notion that Earth if flat some time ago... it "was" indeed for their humble purposes...
Wow, that's the most immensely pretentious answer I've read, Mister Eratosthenes :-)
--
Cheers,

Frederic
 
Shuttershock is normal.
indeed, what is not normal and what you apparently fail to comprehend that in some cases with IS (IBIS, OIS) you have blur @ exposure speeds that 'd be otherwise perfectly safe (w/ a great margin of safety) on a camera w/ any moving/suspended parts... like you know shooting P20/1.7 @ 1/200...
Interesting. I've never encountered this issue nor read about it. Maybe I spend too much time taking pictures and not enough time reading the forum :-)
It isn't particularly interesting since Mr. ex cannot offer any evidence in support of his contentions. I have asked him for that on some ten occasions already and always come up empty-handed. It's just a speculation of his that he is mistaking for a fact.

Personally, I am open to the possibility that there is sometimes (e.g., with certain Power OIS lenses) a negative interaction between the stabilization system and the shock caused by the shutter (i.e., that the stabilization system makes the effect worse than it would otherwise be). But shutter-shock is well-known to occur with cameras having fixed sensors and with lenses having no OIS.
 
Manufacturers are aware of the unavoidable "Shuttershock" and "Mirror Shock". They include a feature in their camera to reduce the vibrations of the shutter/mirror. It's called "Mirror Lockup" or "MLU" ia a DSLR, and "Anti-Schock" in a Mirrorless camera. They work pretty good when enabled.
Isn't what you call "Shuttershock" a phenomenon caused by the shutter itself?
Not by the shutter itself but by the vibrations produced by the shutter when released.
No. That's not correct. To the extent tested, the blur results from the shock due to shutter action rather than by vibrations. Two different things physically speaking.
Thanks to correct me. I respect your findings as you're very knowledgeable on this matter. I've read your shock theory, and it makes a lot of sense to me. Other knowledgeable sources are speaking about vibrations, but you could be more to the point than them.
If yes then how the Anti-Schock option has anything to do with it? I ask this because I think Anti-Schock option has nothing to do with the shutter itself. It has to do with the time between the shutter button press and the actual shutter release. At least that is what I understand from the Olympus' instruction manuals (here from the EM1 manual):

Anti-Shock:

Choose the delay between the shutter button being pressed and the shutter being released.
This diminishes camera shake caused by vibrations. This feature is useful in situations such as microscope photography and astrophotography. It is also useful for sequential shooting (P. 55) and self timer photography (P. 55)
 
You do not understand either. Nobody is, actually.
BS. There's a determined sequence of events. If you are too lazy to look into it don't think others are as lame. There's no need for "multiple theories" here. Just a sequence of events and the consequences of those. High school physics classes (if not ignored or forgotten) are enough to clearly understand what and when happens. But that only works if you really want to understand it and not just pretend to be a smart*** and pepper your posts with "vibrations" of unknown origin.
2) 1/8s "anti-shock" does not help against the most destructing event - first curtain hard stop during exposure.
It helps, but I bet you never tried it, right?
How much was your bet? You've lost.

It's impossible to use it on GX1 since it's not there, but on E-M5 I have it on or off depending on situation.
3) Yes, you can work around but you will lose an important range of shutter speeds (especially important for indoors shooting w/o flash)
Anti shock 1/8s and proper holding technique.
BS. anti-shock does not exist on some cameras at all and no holding technique can mitigate SS on poorly designed shutter. The only "holding technique" that will help is a tripod with infinite mass ;) It's not always possible to use it.
4) Sometimes image is degraded to the level it can't be healed. And "healing" means you'll lose the resolution big time. Why not shoot with 2MP camera instead?
No comment.
Finally you acknowledged you have nothing to say. Thanks.
 
It is very easy to use or not use it once you've enabled it, though. When you change the drive modes you can select the single shot with the * beside it. A lot easier than turning on and off mirror lock up on any Canon I every used - no need to go further than the SCP or top deck button on the E-M1!

For some reason, Canon has never included automatic mirror lockup when using the self timer which would make it trivial to enable/disable. Same goes for Olympus, though, why wouldn't you automatically want anti-shock on when using the self timer?
This is really nice. It duplicates the drives with and without anti-shock. Very nice, much easier than diving into menus.
 
Re-read my post and realized it's not very polite if not to say quite rude.

I'd like to apologize for that, Mr. Pixnat.

That doesn't change my point of view though.
 
Manufacturers are aware of the unavoidable "Shuttershock" and "Mirror Shock". They include a feature in their camera to reduce the vibrations of the shutter/mirror. It's called "Mirror Lockup" or "MLU" ia a DSLR, and "Anti-Schock" in a Mirrorless camera. They work pretty good when enabled.
Isn't what you call "Shuttershock" a phenomenon caused by the shutter itself?
Not by the shutter itself but by the vibrations produced by the shutter when released.
No. That's not correct. To the extent tested, the blur results from the shock due to shutter action rather than by vibrations. Two different things physically speaking.
Thanks to correct me. I respect your findings as you're very knowledgeable on this matter. I've read your shock theory, and it makes a lot of sense to me. Other knowledgeable sources are speaking about vibrations, but you could be more to the point than them.
You are welcome. I have tested it with MFT and Falk Lumo has tested it with Pentax DSLRs. The test is very simple. You put the camera on what Falk Lumo calls a "class A tripod", i.e., a stone floor or some other perfectly rigid and very heavy surface. This prevents the camera from moving (in the sense of being displaced) but not from vibrating. If vibration were the mechanism, you would see blur in this situation too. But you don't. Consequently, vibration is not the mechanism. Brute shock, causing camera displacement, is.

When I tested this, I did so with the E-M5 and the Pany 100-300 at 300 mm (where I get clear signs of shutter-shock when shooting from a tripod). I tried with both stabilization systems off, with IBIS on, and with OIS on. No difference. Everything fine. So vibration didn't fool the stabilization systems into misbehaving either.

If yes then how the Anti-Schock option has anything to do with it? I ask this because I think Anti-Schock option has nothing to do with the shutter itself. It has to do with the time between the shutter button press and the actual shutter release. At least that is what I understand from the Olympus' instruction manuals (here from the EM1 manual):

Anti-Shock:

Choose the delay between the shutter button being pressed and the shutter being released.
This diminishes camera shake caused by vibrations. This feature is useful in situations such as microscope photography and astrophotography. It is also useful for sequential shooting (P. 55) and self timer photography (P. 55)

--
Panagiotis
Suttershock is caused by shutter vibrations. Exactly what can be avoided with Anti-Shock.
The effects of the shock (rather than vibrations) due to the first phase of shutter action (shutter closing to prepare the sensor for exposure) can be avoided by means of the anti-shock setting (which introduces a delay between the first phase of shutter action and the second, where the shutter opens for exposure). However, the anti-shock setting is no panacea. The remaining phases of shutter action cause blur as well.
True, and I never said it's the panacea. It's just a mean to reduce shuttershock, but it do not work in every situations. Mirror Lockup do not either.

--
Cheers,
Frederic
http://azurphoto.com/blog/
 
You do not understand either. Nobody is, actually.
BS. There's a determined sequence of events. If you are too lazy to look into it don't think others are as lame. There's no need for "multiple theories" here. Just a sequence of events and the consequences of those. High school physics classes (if not ignored or forgotten) are enough to clearly understand what and when happens. But that only works if you really want to understand it and not just pretend to be a smart*** and pepper your posts with "vibrations" of unknown origin.
2) 1/8s "anti-shock" does not help against the most destructing event - first curtain hard stop during exposure.
It helps, but I bet you never tried it, right?
How much was your bet? You've lost.

It's impossible to use it on GX1 since it's not there, but on E-M5 I have it on or off depending on situation.
3) Yes, you can work around but you will lose an important range of shutter speeds (especially important for indoors shooting w/o flash)
Anti shock 1/8s and proper holding technique.
BS. anti-shock does not exist on some cameras at all and no holding technique can mitigate SS on poorly designed shutter. The only "holding technique" that will help is a tripod with infinite mass ;) It's not always possible to use it.
Although we agree about nearly everything here, I do think proper "holding technique" helps. No, it won't prevent the camera from moving. But if you hold right, the movement will be translational rather than rotational, which will make the consequences in terms of blur much less prominent. See here for a development of these ideas.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3496076

In that post, I am discussing a pistol grip. But even if you don't use that, holding the camera so as to minimize the risk that the shutter forms part of a moment arm helps. With a short and light lens, this means that you should support the camera via the body only, not under the lens, and use little or no head support. With a longer lens, you should support the lens at a point close to the body.
4) Sometimes image is degraded to the level it can't be healed. And "healing" means you'll lose the resolution big time. Why not shoot with 2MP camera instead?
No comment.
Finally you acknowledged you have nothing to say. Thanks.
 
shutter-shock is well-known to occur with cameras having fixed sensors and with lenses having no OIS.
Yeah, and I told Mr. ex... about such an example numerous times, but he prefers to ignore it since it's ruining his nice theory. :) Well, if facts do not fit with the theory let's ignore facts?

There was another nice theory about the origin of some sensors I remember...
 
Shuttershock is normal.
indeed, what is not normal and what you apparently fail to comprehend that in some cases with IS (IBIS, OIS) you have blur @ exposure speeds that 'd be otherwise perfectly safe (w/ a great margin of safety) on a camera w/ any moving/suspended parts... like you know shooting P20/1.7 @ 1/200...
Interesting. I've never encountered this issue nor read about it. Maybe I spend too much time taking pictures and not enough time reading the forum :-)
It isn't particularly interesting since Mr. ex cannot offer any evidence in support of his contentions.
I did, but you as usual were lazy to look for them in this very forum, yawn... and not only mine.
I have asked him for that on some ten occasions already and always come up empty-handed. It's just a speculation of his that he is mistaking for a fact.
going in circles
Personally, I am open to the possibility that there is sometimes (e.g., with certain Power OIS lenses) a negative interaction between the stabilization system and the shock caused by the shutter (i.e., that the stabilization system makes the effect worse than it would otherwise be). But shutter-shock is well-known to occur with cameras having fixed sensors and with lenses having no OIS.
who cares about what you are open to ? just one example (feel free to use google to find my posting in this forums, do some legwork) is enough... P20/1.7 @ 1/200

and you also fail (or rather pretend) to comprehend that the issue is not a shutter shock itself, but that cameras with IBIS (and lenses with OIS) are more prone to blut @ shutter speeds that otherwise are safe with cameras w/o suspended details :-)... but carry on.
 
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Although we agree about nearly everything here, I do think proper "holding technique" helps. No, it won't prevent the camera from moving. But if you hold right, the movement will be translational rather than rotational, which will make the consequences in terms of blur much less prominent. See here for a development of these ideas.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3496076

In that post, I am discussing a pistol grip. But even if you don't use that, holding the camera so as to minimize the risk that the shutter forms part of a moment arm helps. With a short and light lens, this means that you should support the camera via the body only, not under the lens, and use little or no head support. With a longer lens, you should support the lens at a point close to the body.
Don't worry, Anders. I usually read your posts (when you do not abuse "answer with quote" option too much) ;) The pistol grip is a smart solution but you do understand it's altering shooting experience a lot. Not to mention increased camera bulk.

I think it would be quite useful if you'd give a link again to that article about SS study (from Falkumo, right?) with very detailed explanation and measurements on every step of shutter action. That's a great educational piece of work.
 

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