bkpix
Senior Member
No. My exasperation with Pentax' sluggish autofocus.The 7D was worse for long lens shooting? With Canon lenses?<snip>
The exasperation got worse when I started using a 7D for long lens shooting.
<snip>
jm_mac
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No. My exasperation with Pentax' sluggish autofocus.The 7D was worse for long lens shooting? With Canon lenses?<snip>
The exasperation got worse when I started using a 7D for long lens shooting.
<snip>
jm_mac
Yes it was AF-C.Are you sure your in af-c?Thanks. I would have hoped that this is something that would cured in the K-3. After all, there is much control over AF-C, including some control over timing of loss of focus during tracking. I'll be experimenting! I still don't properly understand all these AF options.Hi Barry,I have only tested this about the house - single centre spot, holding my finger half-down and panning around. (DA* 60-250mm f/4 and DA* 300mm f/4). It quickly (but not instantly, of course) focused on what was at the centre. I suspect it is lens-limited, and this is hardly a realistic test.
I did notice one thing that was bit disconcerting with both of these lenses. Occasionally it would fail to focus on something, for example featureless curtains or wall. (OK). The focus indicator hexagram in the viewfinder would blink. (As it should). But continuing the pan to something it should then focus on didn't cause the camera to start trying again. It would then be pointing at something with adequate light and detail for focusing, but the focus indicator would continue flashing and the image would remain blurred.
Only lifting my finger on the shutter button then re-applying it would start it focusing again. I haven't tested my K-5IIs yet to see if that works the same way. Nor do I know whether there is a setting which would improve this.
The K-5, K-5 II, and K-5 IIs works the same way. Lifting of the finger from the button seems to be the normal way to start the process over again. It seems to me to have something to do with time. If you don't get focus lock within a certian time then you have to start the process over again. It's like when you use the DA*300/4 with a 1.4X teleconverter. If you are near focus to begin with then it will focus and lock on. However, if you are way out of focus to begin with then it won't lock on and you have to lift and press again to get the process started again. Sometimes as many as four times before it will lock on.
both af-a and af-s will time out af-c will continue focus but only beep on 1st frame capture, This is normal you really wouldn’t want beep,beep every time lock was reacquired.
The led tell tales will blink to show new acquired target.
Checking my k3 does as I described above.
Can you tell me how the AF works on the K-3 Bill? Thanks. TomThis isn't avoidance, this is a camera that has only been in a few people's hands for less than a couple of days. For the record, I have a life outside of photography and I DO NOT test cameras. I get a new camera and when I get time I go out and take pictures. Mostly I shoot static subjects, so I don't use AFC.Seriously, how is the AFC of the K3? I am getting a little concerned as everyone seems to avoid answering this.
You can call this avoidance if you like, though I really resent the implication you've directed at me, but I'm not prepared to waste my life doing a bunch of meaningless tests to see what a camera will do when I will likely never use the capability anyway.
The best answer I can give you, based on very limited experience just from running the camera quickly through it's modes to ensure everything functions, is that it is faster than the K5, more accurate than the K5, and the exposure tracking seems to work.
You will have to wait until people who are not primarily portrait shooters get their hands on the camera and see if you can coax their impressions out of them.
Magnesium alloy Vs plastic ..... I guarantee it's a Canon & Nikon killerand how is it with things that move, - planes, trains, birds, bikes and sports? can it lock on and stay locked on to the target? It is touted as a canon killer after all.
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Of cause tell a Canon user his cameras has smoking AF and it all goes horribly wrong
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Nope I'm rightmmm maybe I never let it time out.
I'll retest, da* 300 it is![]()
I believe it is called a bug and not a feature. Olympus DSLRs had the same issue. don't know why Olympus and Pentax can't overcome this while Canon and Nikon has. BTW, I have all four brands of DSLRs.Hi Barry,I have only tested this about the house - single centre spot, holding my finger half-down and panning around. (DA* 60-250mm f/4 and DA* 300mm f/4). It quickly (but not instantly, of course) focused on what was at the centre. I suspect it is lens-limited, and this is hardly a realistic test.Seriously, how is the AFC of the K3? I am getting a little concerned as everyone seems to avoid answering this.
I did notice one thing that was bit disconcerting with both of these lenses. Occasionally it would fail to focus on something, for example featureless curtains or wall. (OK). The focus indicator hexagram in the viewfinder would blink. (As it should). But continuing the pan to something it should then focus on didn't cause the camera to start trying again. It would then be pointing at something with adequate light and detail for focusing, but the focus indicator would continue flashing and the image would remain blurred.
Only lifting my finger on the shutter button then re-applying it would start it focusing again. I haven't tested my K-5IIs yet to see if that works the same way. Nor do I know whether there is a setting which would improve this.
The K-5, K-5 II, and K-5 IIs works the same way. Lifting of the finger from the button seems to be the normal way to start the process over again. It seems to me to have something to do with time. If you don't get focus lock within a certian time then you have to start the process over again. It's like when you use the DA*300/4 with a 1.4X teleconverter. If you are near focus to begin with then it will focus and lock on. However, if you are way out of focus to begin with then it won't lock on and you have to lift and press again to get the process started again. Sometimes as many as four times before it will lock on.
Ron
--
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I have many BIF shots from one afternoon of testing.and how is it with things that move, - planes, trains, birds, bikes and sports? can it lock on and stay locked on to the target? It is touted as a canon killer after all.
Should point out that the only folks who can really answer this are either 1) K-5x users who really used af-c/tracking before, and/or 2) folks who have used tracking from different manufacturers (Canon/Nikon mostly.)Seriously, how is the AFC of the K3? I am getting a little concerned as everyone seems to avoid answering this.
Awaldram,Nope I'm rightmmm maybe I never let it time out.
I'll retest, da* 300 it is![]()
In AF-c the camera will always attempt to achieve focus irrelevant of AF time out.
The reason you don't see this with the 300 is due to the tracking algorithm that makes small corrections in the direction of mis-focus .
Flicking a 300mm lens between two different distance target creates a phase variance to large to see which way to turn so it doesn't move.
You can prove this two ways
1 use a short focal length lens (16-50 etc)
2 use the 300 but on closer distance targets so the image isn't 100% blurred.
In eother situation AF will continue even if first frame hasn't been established yet.
I've used my K-5IIs a lot with AF-C at 7fps, for airshows and motor sports, etc.Should point out that the only folks who can really answer this are either 1) K-5x users who really used af-c/tracking before, and/or 2) folks who have used tracking from different manufacturers (Canon/Nikon mostly.)Seriously, how is the AFC of the K3? I am getting a little concerned as everyone seems to avoid answering this.
If someone has never really used tracking before, they have no point of reference for comparison and can't really answer it definitively.
Should point out that the only folks who can really answer this are either 1) K-5x users who really used af-c/tracking before, and/or 2) folks who have used tracking from different manufacturers (Canon/Nikon mostly.)Seriously, how is the AFC of the K3? I am getting a little concerned as everyone seems to avoid answering this.
If someone has never really used tracking before, they have no point of reference for comparison and can't really answer it definitively.
My guess is that's it's going to be faster/better than the K-5 due to the newer ASICs and more cross points, maybe as good as the 70D/D7000, but probably not up to the 7D or D300.
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There linked from free commons licenced sites so not my property.That's funny as hell. Where on earth did you find those pics? Can I pass those along with your permission?
Thanks