jcmarfilph
Veteran Member
Shoot in RAW to maximize detail. HS with its longer zoom can easily catch up on detail even if you use higher ISO.
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Got an X-S1 coming
- Thread starter Adam-T
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PAUL TILL
Veteran Member
Open your eyes man...
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The 10% Rule:
You Must Be 10% Smarter Than The Equipment You're Operating
PAUL TILL
Veteran Member
Adam likes the HS30 so is being kind. The HS30 is in my book like a £25 toy it's just plain awful to hold and use.
Jostian
Senior Member
Dude, your logic is just ridiculous, Paul please help this guy.. "HS with its longer zoom can easily catch up on detail even if you use higher ISO." since when does extra zoom equal better detail...? geez is this guy for real? higher iso and longer zoom = LESS DETAIL, especially for the pinhead HS50's sensor... since when does longer zoom and higher iso allow one to gain (catch up) on detail??? I'm speechless at the ludicrousness of the logic.jcmarfilph wrote:
Shoot in RAW to maximize detail. HS with its longer zoom can easily catch up on detail even if you use higher ISO.
-=[ Joms ]=-
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Jostian
Adam-T
Forum Pro
I said DIRECT access, pressing a button every time you want to use it isn`t DIRECT, it`s Indirect ........ even a canon S90 has its front dial which can be set to Exposure comp (and Exp Comp is essential with Fujis) .......
as I said, they need a setting to allow the focus ring to act as a second (IE more useful) command dial and always have since the S9500 came out , what , 7 years ago ..
the XS1 has a beautiful wide rubberized damped ring behind the zoom ring which will spend its life doing Zilch on probably 90% of the cameras made , what a Waste, it`d make a superb command dial .
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** Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist **
as I said, they need a setting to allow the focus ring to act as a second (IE more useful) command dial and always have since the S9500 came out , what , 7 years ago ..
the XS1 has a beautiful wide rubberized damped ring behind the zoom ring which will spend its life doing Zilch on probably 90% of the cameras made , what a Waste, it`d make a superb command dial .
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** Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist **
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jcmarfilph
Veteran Member
Adam-T
Forum Pro
I`ve only got RAWtherapee which works with the XS1. all the ISOs preview perfectly except ISO100 which previews White - you need to adjust the Exposure comp down 2 stops or more making me think this is a Pulled (Faked) ISO .. has anyone else found this with other converters or are they merely smart enough to work around automatically .. BTW RT does wonders with EXR balance just by using the highlight control
The sensor is amazingly clean in RT with no NR whatsoever (which really IS no NR not what Silkypix or LR calls no NR) . appears to be a good 2 stops cleaner than the HS30 . also appears to have no AA filter , the detail is phenomenal - RT always develops at 6Mp so you get full control of the DR - it ignores any size settings .
This is ISO800 out of RT - no NR . full size 6Mp - this blows the doors of anything I`ve seen from the X20`s X-Trans sensor at ISO800 for clean-nes OR sheer sharpness
XS1 ISO800 Raw Therapee
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** Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist **
The sensor is amazingly clean in RT with no NR whatsoever (which really IS no NR not what Silkypix or LR calls no NR) . appears to be a good 2 stops cleaner than the HS30 . also appears to have no AA filter , the detail is phenomenal - RT always develops at 6Mp so you get full control of the DR - it ignores any size settings .
This is ISO800 out of RT - no NR . full size 6Mp - this blows the doors of anything I`ve seen from the X20`s X-Trans sensor at ISO800 for clean-nes OR sheer sharpness
XS1 ISO800 Raw Therapee
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** Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist **
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wymjym
Veteran Member
yeh except it does handle manual focus pretty well.
the exposure compensation control button isn't as bad as you might think.....my finger memory knows where it is and with camera placed to face I can press the button and using my thumb roll the upper wheel to set the compensation.
wj
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nikonfujipentaxandricoh
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PAUL TILL
Veteran Member
I don't see a problem, press with your finger and turn with your thumb. Can't you cope with using 2 digits at once?
Having the dial as direct EV would mess up having it to adjust the aperture, especially when all Fuji's need to be shot in A Mode as P doesn't work with Fuji's, either giving a slow shutter speed or to small an aperture, something they've never mastered.
PAUL TILL
Veteran Member
Adam-T
Forum Pro
Shouldn`t have to when there`s a lovely smooth fat dial around the lens going to waste :-x .......I don't see a problem, press with your finger and turn with your thumb. Can't you cope with using 2 digits at once?
All the more reason to get the Focus ring usable for other duties ..
regarrding apertures, at least with a 2/3" sensor the thing isn`t into diffraction at the long end wideopen (which the HS cams and stuff like the SX50, HX200 etc are) . I never understood why P mode doesn`t work in Fujis . they`ve not managed to get shutter speeds much above 1000th at F2.8 either I see ,
L
Lightpath48
Guest
That's a very good shot!
Adam-T
Forum Pro
Thanks ! .. I`m not a birder and it wasn`t on a feeder, the XS1 didn`t seem to "get in the way" AF wise , the IS worked well as you can see, the movement was in the bird (hence why it could have been sharper)
I haven't had the issues that are mentioned here regarding "P" mode in Fujifilm cameras. I probably shot in "P" mode more than any even on my trusty old S602Z, and still use it often on the X-S1. Can you explain in a bit more detail why you think it fails? I do, of course, sometimes shoot in the other modes, A, S or M, or even occasionally in EXR when needed, and I do like the advanced modes for a few special circumstances.
I've spent considerable time in the Canon DSLR forums and never noticed any posts about drooping zooms. Not even one. I've seen literally dozens of such threads about that on the XS1 though.
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PAUL TILL
Veteran Member
You don't need to read about it on the net. I've had the type of lenses Adams talking about, cheap Sigmas and Tamrons, Nikons 18-200 VR, they all droop and move, in fact more than the XS-1.
Adam-T
Forum Pro
that`s because they`re CHEAP and no one cares , a basic Sigma or Tamron 70-300 is little over £100 new , the Cheapo canon and Nikon 70-300 (non IS) are usually bought used for under £100 so no one bothers about such things, the OEM ones wobble more than the Sigmas and Tamrons .......
The XS1 cost £600 and drooped - what highlighted and why it was screamed about was that the "cheap" HS series, the Prior S100/200 and even the old S9000/6000 series didn`t droop at all .
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** Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist **
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Jostian
Senior Member
Adam-T
Forum Pro
What Joms is on about is what`s called "Pixels Per Duck" .. with 1000mm he can put far more soft smeary (JPG) or noisy (RAW) HS50 Pixels on a bird than you can put sharp clean XS1 ones from the same distance resulting in possibly as much detail (Maybe more if its a long way off and you really have to crop a helll of a lot) ..
what he doesn`t take into account is the actual image quality of the photo, as you could see by his Robin example , pinhead sensors and compromised megazoom lenses result in horrible distracting halation loaded backgrounds and in RAW more noise grit than real detail as well (or in JPG a smeary mess) ..
what he doesn`t take into account is the actual image quality of the photo, as you could see by his Robin example , pinhead sensors and compromised megazoom lenses result in horrible distracting halation loaded backgrounds and in RAW more noise grit than real detail as well (or in JPG a smeary mess) ..
jcmarfilph
Veteran Member
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