--
Well, if you already have all that equipment, it shouldn't be too difficult to choose. Think of it as a choice between a 1V and an EOS-30.
It's digital. The price will drop dramatically no matter what you buy.
--
...mainly due to the fact that the 1D has a 1.3x FLM and the 10D
has a 1.6x FLM. That will give you fields of view closer to what
you are used to with film. If you go straight to the 10D, you may
find the narrower FOV to be (a) a shock and (b) suddnely not have a
wide enough FOV for some shots even though you have a WA zoom.
Additionally, the 1D imager has physically larger pixels than the
imager in the 10D. The signal-to-noise ratio is better with the 1D
than the 10D as a result. That might be important to you.
Additionally, there is more support for the 1D raw image files than
for the 10D. You can opt for using the Phase One program or Adobe's
raw conversion plug-in for PS7. Right now, neither tool supports
the 10D. You do want to shoot in raw mode regardless of camera for
maximum image quality.
Additionally (I'm on a roll here with this word!), there is the
point already made, which I'll second, where the 1D is a 1V and a
10D is an EOS3. Guess which one is better than the other in this
respect.
Additionally, the 1D sports a spot meter, which may or may not be a
very important point for your work. I know it is for mine. I use
the spot meter even in manual mode to measure various parts of a
subject and then decide on the settings I wish to use.
The bottom line is that the 1Ds is probably the best match for you,
but if you can't go for that right now (I'm in the same boat
myself), then the 1D is probably the correct second choice.
If you do wind up with a 1Ds later on, the 1D will make for a
better second camera than the 10D would. The controls are
identical, for one thing. Plus, the 1D is a lot faster than the 1Ds
or 10D, and you might find yourself needing that speed at some
point. Add to that the higher ISO range and you'd have a great
combination for maximum flexability.
No, the technology is not outdated in the 1D. Yes, it uses a
Bipolar CCD over CMOS but you can't clock CMOS as fast as Bipolar.
The CCD in the 1D is the fastest still camera CCD out there, and
the 30 fps CCDs used in the top video cameras don't approach the
resolution of that used in the 1D.
I don't think you'll be seeing any technological updates, as far as
the imagers go, in the 1Ds or 1D in the next 12 months. I think I
can say the same for the 10D, since it's new on the market.
Prices tend to fluctuate all the time, so you can't even think
about that. Buy what you need, when you need it, and forget about
the constant price changes.
Heck, the Kodak DCS 560 (EOS 1N) and 660 (Nikon F5), which were the
second generation 6 MP DSLRs, were $25,000 just 4 years ago. Now
they fetch less than $2,000 on the used market. There were a lot of
professionals that bought those and made good money with them over
the past 4 years. It may sound terrible that they can get only $2k
for one now, but that money is really just a bonus. They'd have
done fine financially if they simply tossed them in the trash at
this point.
BTW, if any of y'all feel the need to toss out any of the old Kodak
DSLR units (Canon or Nikon based), please drop me an email. I'll
gladly pay shipping costs on them to keep them from polluting out
landfills!
Stan
--
Warning! Engage Brain before using Shutter Button!
Amateur Photographer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
More info and list of gear is in my Posters' Profile.
Raymond,--...mainly due to the fact that the 1D has a 1.3x FLM and the 10D
has a 1.6x FLM. That will give you fields of view closer to what
you are used to with film. If you go straight to the 10D, you may
find the narrower FOV to be (a) a shock and (b) suddnely not have a
wide enough FOV for some shots even though you have a WA zoom.
Additionally, the 1D imager has physically larger pixels than the
imager in the 10D. The signal-to-noise ratio is better with the 1D
than the 10D as a result. That might be important to you.
Additionally, there is more support for the 1D raw image files than
for the 10D. You can opt for using the Phase One program or Adobe's
raw conversion plug-in for PS7. Right now, neither tool supports
the 10D. You do want to shoot in raw mode regardless of camera for
maximum image quality.
Additionally (I'm on a roll here with this word!), there is the
point already made, which I'll second, where the 1D is a 1V and a
10D is an EOS3. Guess which one is better than the other in this
respect.
Additionally, the 1D sports a spot meter, which may or may not be a
very important point for your work. I know it is for mine. I use
the spot meter even in manual mode to measure various parts of a
subject and then decide on the settings I wish to use.
The bottom line is that the 1Ds is probably the best match for you,
but if you can't go for that right now (I'm in the same boat
myself), then the 1D is probably the correct second choice.
If you do wind up with a 1Ds later on, the 1D will make for a
better second camera than the 10D would. The controls are
identical, for one thing. Plus, the 1D is a lot faster than the 1Ds
or 10D, and you might find yourself needing that speed at some
point. Add to that the higher ISO range and you'd have a great
combination for maximum flexability.
No, the technology is not outdated in the 1D. Yes, it uses a
Bipolar CCD over CMOS but you can't clock CMOS as fast as Bipolar.
The CCD in the 1D is the fastest still camera CCD out there, and
the 30 fps CCDs used in the top video cameras don't approach the
resolution of that used in the 1D.
I don't think you'll be seeing any technological updates, as far as
the imagers go, in the 1Ds or 1D in the next 12 months. I think I
can say the same for the 10D, since it's new on the market.
Prices tend to fluctuate all the time, so you can't even think
about that. Buy what you need, when you need it, and forget about
the constant price changes.
Heck, the Kodak DCS 560 (EOS 1N) and 660 (Nikon F5), which were the
second generation 6 MP DSLRs, were $25,000 just 4 years ago. Now
they fetch less than $2,000 on the used market. There were a lot of
professionals that bought those and made good money with them over
the past 4 years. It may sound terrible that they can get only $2k
for one now, but that money is really just a bonus. They'd have
done fine financially if they simply tossed them in the trash at
this point.
BTW, if any of y'all feel the need to toss out any of the old Kodak
DSLR units (Canon or Nikon based), please drop me an email. I'll
gladly pay shipping costs on them to keep them from polluting out
landfills!
Stan
--
Warning! Engage Brain before using Shutter Button!
Amateur Photographer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
More info and list of gear is in my Posters' Profile.
--...mainly due to the fact that the 1D has a 1.3x FLM and the 10D
has a 1.6x FLM. That will give you fields of view closer to what
you are used to with film. If you go straight to the 10D, you may
find the narrower FOV to be (a) a shock and (b) suddnely not have a
wide enough FOV for some shots even though you have a WA zoom.
Additionally, the 1D imager has physically larger pixels than the
imager in the 10D. The signal-to-noise ratio is better with the 1D
than the 10D as a result. That might be important to you.
Additionally, there is more support for the 1D raw image files than
for the 10D. You can opt for using the Phase One program or Adobe's
raw conversion plug-in for PS7. Right now, neither tool supports
the 10D. You do want to shoot in raw mode regardless of camera for
maximum image quality.
Additionally (I'm on a roll here with this word!), there is the
point already made, which I'll second, where the 1D is a 1V and a
10D is an EOS3. Guess which one is better than the other in this
respect.
Additionally, the 1D sports a spot meter, which may or may not be a
very important point for your work. I know it is for mine. I use
the spot meter even in manual mode to measure various parts of a
subject and then decide on the settings I wish to use.
The bottom line is that the 1Ds is probably the best match for you,
but if you can't go for that right now (I'm in the same boat
myself), then the 1D is probably the correct second choice.
If you do wind up with a 1Ds later on, the 1D will make for a
better second camera than the 10D would. The controls are
identical, for one thing. Plus, the 1D is a lot faster than the 1Ds
or 10D, and you might find yourself needing that speed at some
point. Add to that the higher ISO range and you'd have a great
combination for maximum flexability.
No, the technology is not outdated in the 1D. Yes, it uses a
Bipolar CCD over CMOS but you can't clock CMOS as fast as Bipolar.
The CCD in the 1D is the fastest still camera CCD out there, and
the 30 fps CCDs used in the top video cameras don't approach the
resolution of that used in the 1D.
I don't think you'll be seeing any technological updates, as far as
the imagers go, in the 1Ds or 1D in the next 12 months. I think I
can say the same for the 10D, since it's new on the market.
Prices tend to fluctuate all the time, so you can't even think
about that. Buy what you need, when you need it, and forget about
the constant price changes.
Heck, the Kodak DCS 560 (EOS 1N) and 660 (Nikon F5), which were the
second generation 6 MP DSLRs, were $25,000 just 4 years ago. Now
they fetch less than $2,000 on the used market. There were a lot of
professionals that bought those and made good money with them over
the past 4 years. It may sound terrible that they can get only $2k
for one now, but that money is really just a bonus. They'd have
done fine financially if they simply tossed them in the trash at
this point.
BTW, if any of y'all feel the need to toss out any of the old Kodak
DSLR units (Canon or Nikon based), please drop me an email. I'll
gladly pay shipping costs on them to keep them from polluting out
landfills!
Stan
--
Warning! Engage Brain before using Shutter Button!
Amateur Photographer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
More info and list of gear is in my Posters' Profile.
--
--
) The D60 is noticable better than the D30 (
). Then you compare the 10D to the D60 (
)
Add it all up and you'll find the 10D has less noise than the 1D.
Seth
