D800 shadow pushing

John, do you have any handle on the apparent thermal noise that we're seeing from this camera at ISO6400 and up? Even at 1/80th, I'm getting slight blue-magenta casts localized a bit.

Makes me think that LENR should be a right, not a privilege.
 
John, do you have any handle on the apparent thermal noise that we're seeing from this camera at ISO6400 and up? Even at 1/80th, I'm getting slight blue-magenta casts localized a bit.

Makes me think that LENR should be a right, not a privilege.
this is the first I'm hearing of this, but if the color casts are the same in every shot with the same WB, then certainly, it could be calibrated out with a smoothed stack of black frames (a simple single-frame black frame subtraction would increase random read noise by 41%). I have noticed something like this in ISO 200K D4 shots, but I don't know if repeated in every frame.

--
John

 
ACR has a shadow tint adjustment in the calibration tab, which often needs to be used.
I never even noticed that ACR adjustment before since this is the first time I'm trying ISOless on a serious basis. A +2 adjustment took away the green cast I was seeing in the shadows and with acceptable side effects to other aspects of the image. Thanks John.
 
John, do you have any handle on the apparent thermal noise that we're seeing from this camera at ISO6400 and up? Even at 1/80th, I'm getting slight blue-magenta casts localized a bit.

Makes me think that LENR should be a right, not a privilege.
this is the first I'm hearing of this, but if the color casts are the same in every shot with the same WB, then certainly, it could be calibrated out with a smoothed stack of black frames (a simple single-frame black frame subtraction would increase random read noise by 41%). I have noticed something like this in ISO 200K D4 shots, but I don't know if repeated in every frame.
I haven't been looking for it in my images but it does show up on the blackframe: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=41036302 . I don't see nearly the same effect on the D7000's black frames.
 
John, do you have any handle on the apparent thermal noise that we're seeing from this camera at ISO6400 and up? Even at 1/80th, I'm getting slight blue-magenta casts localized a bit.

Makes me think that LENR should be a right, not a privilege.
this is the first I'm hearing of this, but if the color casts are the same in every shot with the same WB, then certainly, it could be calibrated out with a smoothed stack of black frames (a simple single-frame black frame subtraction would increase random read noise by 41%). I have noticed something like this in ISO 200K D4 shots, but I don't know if repeated in every frame.
Would this involve something like averaging, say, four frames...more? Would you apply gaussian blur to smooth in addition?

It's a bit of a fly in the ointment. I have a feeling the thermal noise is all on chip.
 
I'm seeing small amounts of banding in High ISO, a bit below D3/D3s levels;
OH NO! I just absolutely f*cking hate banding.. it destroys almost every image that needs a "shadow-lift".. all shots taken in strong sunlight that is.. F*ck! I had almost decided on the D800.. But shadow banding is a NO NO for me after over 4 years with the D3-banding.. its horrible.. And the worst thing is, I got the D5000 as a small backup, and it has absolutely ZERO banding, gives me better image-quality for pro-retouching then my D3.. and thats really a scam..
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http://blogg.hogbergphotography.com
 
Would this involve something like averaging, say, four frames...more? Would you apply gaussian blur to smooth in addition?
4 is not a lot. 4 has 1/2 as much random noise as 1. Starting at about 16 of them, where random noise is 1/4, will take away fixed noise with little additional random noise. The softening thing could work better with 4, so long as all the patterns that you want to remove are low-frequency. Sometimes, cameras have fixed differences in offsets of odd and even lines, which blurring a blackframe would not help; you'd have to blur lines or color channels independently.
It's a bit of a fly in the ointment. I have a feeling the thermal noise is all on chip.
Manufacturers seem to be more concerned with speed than accuracy, and of course, the converters have not stepped up to take care of that, in cases where they could help. Astrophotographers do this stuff all the time, but the software they use does not give the full, glossy product that commercial converters give with full color space conversions.

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John

 
Your case is even better, because you have shot at analog ISO100, which has the full dynamic range (as opposed to analog ISO1600 with lower dynamic range), so pushing analog ISO100 brings better quality than pushing analog ISO16000.
No. Pushing 1600 would have been better, provided that you didn't need the extra 4 stops of highlights that 100 would afford. The camera is not perfectly "ISO-less"; it has noise independent of amplification which is fairly low, but visible because of its character and because photosite noise is so low at base ISO.

You can certainly set the D800 to "sunny f/16" in manual mode with RAW at ISO 100 and walk around on a sunny day, snapping away, walking into alleys or into stores with big windows, without visible penalty beyond what you might get at a higher ISO, but if you're going to shoot under the moon, or by candle-light, 1600 would be a better base to "under-expose" from.

--
John

 
I'm seeing small amounts of banding in High ISO, a bit below D3/D3s levels;
OH NO! I just absolutely f*cking hate banding.. it destroys almost every image that needs a "shadow-lift".. all shots taken in strong sunlight that is.. F*ck! I had almost decided on the D800.. But shadow banding is a NO NO for me after over 4 years with the D3-banding.. its horrible.. And the worst thing is, I got the D5000 as a small backup, and it has absolutely ZERO banding, gives me better image-quality for pro-retouching then my D3.. and thats really a scam..
That's a shame because the D800 banding is very simple; it runs consistently along the horizontal. Simply adding 100 to 200 columns of masked pixels on the left or right edge of the sensor would allow this banding to be mostly subtracted. Someone posted a conversion of a D800 ISO 100 blackframe the other day, and even after the conversion, which is not the optimal point at which to remove banding, I eliminated it using 200 columns of pixels, ignoring the 20 biggest outlier pixels in each horizontal strip. I used the left edge of the image for the sample pixels, and it cleared up the banding on the right edge of the image.

Perhaps Nikon has been resting on its "less banding than Canon" laurels too comfortably, and provides no correction in-camera. Now, with the 5D3, Canon has less horizontal banding than the FF Nikons (but much higher random read noise at base ISO). Canon started correcting horizontal banding in-camera to some degree a few years back, but their banding was too complex for a simple sampling of masked pixels to correct very well. Now, Canon has simple banding and in-camera correction in the horizontal. They have not solved the vertical banding issue at all, though.

If Nikon were to correct the horizontal banding (or maybe Sony would have to add more pixels), the ISO-less-ness of the D800 would increase rather dramatically, I would think.

Obviously, these are not major concerns to the manufacturers, because they certainly would be easy to fix, especially when the offsets are consistent across entire lines.

--
John

 
If you learn how to expose properly there wouldn't be a need to pull shadows =P
On the contrary; it is the people who have a better grasp of what exposure really is on a digital camera that understand the value of having a system in which analog gain is pointless, and exposure is absolute, rather than relative to a default JPEG.

Have you ever noticed the glaring fact that the people who have the most experience working directly with RAW data (doing their own conversion directly from the RAW data) almost unanimously see a use for ISO-less-ness, and/or full-functioning auto-ISO? While, at the same time, the people who laugh at these things are full of bravado, but see through a glass, darkly, as far as RAW data is concerned?

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John

 
Who needs Metering?
Well, there are still uses for some kind of meter, even after we have cameras with only one gain (or pure photon counters).

One might want some kind of feedback on how their manual exposure parameters affect light quantities, like a RAW histogram that has twinkling pixels in very low exposure ranges, so that one can realize, perhaps, that their shutter speed selection might be unnecessary for the shot. There is also the issue of flash; flash needs to be balanced to ambient exposure, and requires some offset from actual exposure. You also need to know when you are going to blow out, so some indication in the viewfinder or LCD should warn you of this.

The motivation for this new paradigm is not "exposure be damned"; it is based on a more realistic notion of what exposure really is, with a full understanding of the difference between absolute exposure, and the semi-illusory relative exposure of a JPEG at a certain ISO.

--
John

 
I like how they do their test. Testing both highilght and shadow retention in RAW files at base ISO. Seems the D800 has the edge on both ends.

I'm very surprised at how well the 4 stop pushed ISO100 shot looks compared to the ISO1600, nearly identical! Whereas the 5D you really need to use the camera ISO settings to get the most out of your files.
--
Cloverdale, B.C., Canada
Currently shooting: Nikon D3S, D700
http://www.joesiv.com
 
Would this involve something like averaging, say, four frames...more? Would you apply gaussian blur to smooth in addition?
4 is not a lot. 4 has 1/2 as much random noise as 1. Starting at about 16 of them, where random noise is 1/4, will take away fixed noise with little additional random noise. The softening thing could work better with 4, so long as all the patterns that you want to remove are low-frequency. Sometimes, cameras have fixed differences in offsets of odd and even lines, which blurring a blackframe would not help; you'd have to blur lines or color channels independently.
I'm going to have to start a small collection of black frames, if for no other reason than to try to get a handle on the shape of it. This kind of noise is the only thing in my view that holds the D800 back above ISO6400.

I get the feeling though that it is a fairly even background noise, but there is also some localized noise concentrated horizontally across the bottom of the frame. None of it is so well defined as banding.
It's a bit of a fly in the ointment. I have a feeling the thermal noise is all on chip.
Manufacturers seem to be more concerned with speed than accuracy, and of course, the converters have not stepped up to take care of that, in cases where they could help. Astrophotographers do this stuff all the time, but the software they use does not give the full, glossy product that commercial converters give with full color space conversions.
This generation of Exmor has more pixels, and I suspect more active circuitry on chip to support extended features such as video frame subsampling. This seems bound to create more heat problems. As you say, things have to move faster -- more pixels multiplied out at video-frame rates. I think the next milestone is 30 full frame captures per second.

Nothing a little liquid nitrogen couldn't solve.
 
The motivation for this new paradigm is not "exposure be damned"; it is based on a more realistic notion of what exposure really is, with a full understanding of the difference between absolute exposure, and the semi-illusory relative exposure of a JPEG at a certain ISO.
Still, I think "exposure be dammed" is one of the benefits ISOless shooting. It means you don't have to fiddle with ISO in changing light conditions, provided the aperture/shutter you've selected is at/below the clipping level for the highest LV you'll see. That means never clipping a highlight, whereas you run that risk w/Auto ISO if the camera meters a given scene too hot.
 
I'm seeing small amounts of banding in High ISO, a bit below D3/D3s levels;
OH NO! I just absolutely f*cking hate banding.. it destroys almost every image that needs a "shadow-lift".. all shots taken in strong sunlight that is.. F*ck! I had almost decided on the D800.. But shadow banding is a NO NO for me after over 4 years with the D3-banding.. its horrible.. And the worst thing is, I got the D5000 as a small backup, and it has absolutely ZERO banding, gives me better image-quality for pro-retouching then my D3.. and thats really a scam..
The intensity is pretty light and could probably be removed with Dfine without too much trouble. The only three cameras/sensors I've personally used that have zero banding are the D5000, A900, and the S90.
 

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