How to Handling Nef's?

Alcineia

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I realize the advantages of using NEF but i am not using it because I don't not know how to use the processing steps.Like how to save,which format?What is better to process in Capture and what in PS,etc....

Where I can find a tutorial or tips how to save,print,correct these files (NEF).Example :

I correct something in capture but when I open it in PS 6 i can not use most of PS fuctions anymore (crop,layers)?What's wrong with that?

Another question is for example if I want take a nef to a 100kb JPG file to post in a photo forum how do i do that?

--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
.
I realize the advantages of using NEF but i am not using it because
I don't not know how to use the processing steps.Like how to
save,which format?What is better to process in Capture and what in
PS,etc....
Where I can find a tutorial or tips how to save,print,correct these
files (NEF).Example :
I correct something in capture but when I open it in PS 6 i can
not use most of PS fuctions anymore (crop,layers)?What's wrong with
that?
Another question is for example if I want take a nef to a 100kb JPG
file to post in a photo forum how do i do that?

--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
When you go from NC to PS with a NEF, it open up in PS as a extrapolated 16-bit image with the limitations of which you speak. Go to 'Image', 'Mode' and select 8-bit for the full controls.

You can do most everything you need in NC, including print if you wish. Applying USM should be the last step before you actually print. Some folks go to PS because they are more familiar/comfortable using PS.

You can try a search on "work flow" to see what others are doing, but the actual steps will depend on the photo and what steps need to be made to enhance it before printing.

Regards,
Trent
I realize the advantages of using NEF but i am not using it because
I don't not know how to use the processing steps.Like how to
save,which format?What is better to process in Capture and what in
PS,etc....
Where I can find a tutorial or tips how to save,print,correct these
files (NEF).Example :
I correct something in capture but when I open it in PS 6 i can
not use most of PS fuctions anymore (crop,layers)?What's wrong with
that?
Another question is for example if I want take a nef to a 100kb JPG
file to post in a photo forum how do i do that?

--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
Hi Trent,

But if I change to (8 bit),Let's say in a case that this was a very nice picture and I want a bigger print possible do I lose quality doing this?
thanks
You can do most everything you need in NC, including print if you
wish. Applying USM should be the last step before you actually
print. Some folks go to PS because they are more
familiar/comfortable using PS.

You can try a search on "work flow" to see what others are doing,
but the actual steps will depend on the photo and what steps need
to be made to enhance it before printing.

Regards,
Trent
I realize the advantages of using NEF but i am not using it because
I don't not know how to use the processing steps.Like how to
save,which format?What is better to process in Capture and what in
PS,etc....
Where I can find a tutorial or tips how to save,print,correct these
files (NEF).Example :
I correct something in capture but when I open it in PS 6 i can
not use most of PS fuctions anymore (crop,layers)?What's wrong with
that?
Another question is for example if I want take a nef to a 100kb JPG
file to post in a photo forum how do i do that?

--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
Hi Trent,
But if I change to (8 bit),Let's say in a case that this was a
very nice picture and I want a bigger print possible do I lose
quality doing this?
thanks
If I may step in

the difference between 8 bit and 16 bit makes little difference, if any, when enlarging the print.

It makes a difference when you're adjusting the image heavily, it's here that the 16 bit image will "hold the image together better". So they recommend that when you need to do a lot of adjustments (e.g. levels, curves, colour correction etc) try and keep the image in 16 bit for as long as possible then you can simply adjust down to 8 bit for printing, as 16 bit makes the image too large and unnecessarily complex for printers (in fact some printers won't accept 16 bit images)
 
Clive,

to stay with 16 bit I should upgrade from my ps6 to 7?Does 7 handle this 16 bit file ? it is worth make this upgrade just for this matter?

I want to edit Wb,EV in capture and touch-up,color balance,cropping and sharpning in PS. what do you think?How do I get best quality?
Thanks Trent for the word "workflow" I am finding some threads now.
Hi Trent,
But if I change to (8 bit),Let's say in a case that this was a
very nice picture and I want a bigger print possible do I lose
quality doing this?
thanks
If I may step in
the difference between 8 bit and 16 bit makes little difference, if
any, when enlarging the print.

It makes a difference when you're adjusting the image heavily, it's
here that the 16 bit image will "hold the image together better".
So they recommend that when you need to do a lot of adjustments
(e.g. levels, curves, colour correction etc) try and keep the image
in 16 bit for as long as possible then you can simply adjust down
to 8 bit for printing, as 16 bit makes the image too large and
unnecessarily complex for printers (in fact some printers won't
accept 16 bit images)
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first, but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly. After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
 
Hi Craig,
What would be this forum without you,hum?
Thanks so much for making this clear to me.

I just instaled capture and shot my first raw,so it is everything new.I also saw that there is a guy that make a e-booklet for d100 raw workflow,that would be nice too.

About if I can use PS to edit 16 bit files???who knows?...I have no clue.I just went there, open this raw file and could do anything because most of the things I usualy do was grey out,was not working(layers,crop etc..).

Wow!! you sharp at 65 in capture?I usually do more in PS.Problably the software works not the same way.

I tryed to post a pic and this image could not get less than 500 kb without losing quality.Now after reading here I think it is because I left it in 16 bit.In a little bit I am going to bite this bits! :) just kidding
Thanks
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first,
but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You
seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly.
After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance
if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by
setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change
the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image
while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need
to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar
with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the
image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with
in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO
Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require
different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the
image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the
resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance
and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do
that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or
whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure
you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at
whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the
full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
Hi Craig,
What would be this forum without you,hum?
How kind of you. All I'm here for is to learn and more importantly help whenever I can.
About if I can use PS to edit 16 bit files???who knows?...I have no
clue.I just went there, open this raw file and could do anything
because most of the things I usualy do was grey out,was not
working(layers,crop etc..).
If you change the mode to 8 bit(ie; Image> Mode> 8 bits/Channel) you can use many of the layer functions, can't you? You should be able to crop a 16 bit image.
Wow!! you sharp at 65 in capture?I usually do more in PS.Problably
the software works not the same way.
Right. Here's the difference between the two.
Nikon Capture, Photoshop™
Intensity/Amount 0-100%, 0-500%
Halo Width / Radius 0-100%, 0-20 pixels
Threshold/Threshold 0-255, 0-255

I used to do all of my sharpening in PS too, but I found that for original NEF's Capture does a better job than PS. I use PS USM for resized photos, though.
I tryed to post a pic and this image could not get less than 500 kb
without losing quality.Now after reading here I think it is because
I left it in 16 bit.
PS 7 won't allow me to "save as" a 16 bit image in JPG format. I don't use the "Save for Web" function. I just convert to 8 bit and "save as" a JPG. I shoot all images in Mode II(Adobe RGB) and I convert them to sRGB when posting them on the web. A quality setting of 9 usually holds the file size down and still preserves the details in the image.

Glad to help get you started with NEF's, Alcineia. If it's your style, they are the only way to go.

Craig
 
Since PS 7 doesn't save in 16 bit and to print I need 8 bit anyway.I think that i will keep ps6 for a while.
Hi Craig,
What would be this forum without you,hum?
How kind of you. All I'm here for is to learn and more importantly
help whenever I can.
About if I can use PS to edit 16 bit files???who knows?...I have no
clue.I just went there, open this raw file and could do anything
because most of the things I usualy do was grey out,was not
working(layers,crop etc..).
If you change the mode to 8 bit(ie; Image> Mode> 8 bits/Channel) you
can use many of the layer functions, can't you? You should be able
to crop a 16 bit image.
Wow!! you sharp at 65 in capture?I usually do more in PS.Problably
the software works not the same way.
Right. Here's the difference between the two.
Nikon Capture, Photoshop™
Intensity/Amount 0-100%, 0-500%
Halo Width / Radius 0-100%, 0-20 pixels
Threshold/Threshold 0-255, 0-255

I used to do all of my sharpening in PS too, but I found that for
original NEF's Capture does a better job than PS. I use PS USM for
resized photos, though.
I tryed to post a pic and this image could not get less than 500 kb
without losing quality.Now after reading here I think it is because
I left it in 16 bit.
PS 7 won't allow me to "save as" a 16 bit image in JPG format. I
don't use the "Save for Web" function. I just convert to 8 bit and
"save as" a JPG. I shoot all images in Mode II(Adobe RGB) and I
convert them to sRGB when posting them on the web. A quality
setting of 9 usually holds the file size down and still preserves
the details in the image.

Glad to help get you started with NEF's, Alcineia. If it's your
style, they are the only way to go.

Craig
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
While you're in Capture, you should consider doing Levels/Curves adjustments there for color balancing, gamma adjustments, shadow adjustments (and their associated gamma adjustments to maintain luminosity), as the Capture Levels/Curves dialog is tremendously more powerful than PS.

Ron
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first,
but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You
seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly.
After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance
if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by
setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change
the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image
while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need
to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar
with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the
image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with
in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO
Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require
different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the
image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the
resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance
and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do
that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or
whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure
you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at
whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the
full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
--
Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com
 
So i will try to stay more inside capture and at the end go to pS.But I need to start learn fast capture workflow is a little different different but doesn't look complicated like photoshop.

My pics is not getting as sharp as I want.Changed now to raw let's see if will get better. :(((
Ron
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first,
but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You
seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly.
After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance
if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by
setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change
the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image
while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need
to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar
with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the
image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with
in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO
Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require
different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the
image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the
resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance
and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do
that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or
whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure
you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at
whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the
full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
--
Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
See vtie's recent postings, as to why PS in LAB mode is superior -- for Curves processing, in particular.

I don't believe that Nikon Capture does curve calculations in LAB colorspace, so you get color shift with significant curve changes, don't you?
Ron
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first,
but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You
seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly.
After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance
if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by
setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change
the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image
while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need
to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar
with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the
image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with
in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO
Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require
different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the
image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the
resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance
and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do
that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or
whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure
you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at
whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the
full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
--
Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com
 
Alcineia Hello,

first! you photos are all great and full of light and love! anything you used until now gave you a very nice result! congratulations.....

I shoht my photos all in RAW, then in NC3 changing WB, lightlevels, sharpness, If I want to show the photos in the net, I save them directly from NC3 in 800x531 to JPG, if its necesary I change color saturation and kontrast in PH....... thats all....

regrads Stefan

http://www2.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=90399
http://www.pbase.com/magus
 
At least for USM, capture 3.5 does correct this in "lab" mode. The following is a quote from Capture help:

'Unsharp Mask sharpens edges without affecting color balance by making adjustments only to luminosity (brightness). The effect is the same as performing Unsharp Mask with the Luminosity channel selected in the Adobe Photoshop Lab color model.'
Ron
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first,
but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You
seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly.
After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance
if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by
setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change
the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image
while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need
to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar
with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the
image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with
in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO
Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require
different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the
image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the
resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance
and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do
that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or
whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure
you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at
whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the
full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
--
Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com
 
You can adjust shadows and gamma simultaneously while working based on a histogram. No, it does not operate in LAB mode, but the ability to rapidly adjust each channel and the global RGB, with exceptional results, keeps me doing that sort of thing in Capture. I suppose my results should speak for themselves... the fact that I can adjust nearly any image in 10 to 30 sec. depending on how much work it needs in the Levels dialog. When you are working with hundreds and hundreds of images, handling curves and levels efficiently and simultaneously at high speed is rather useful IMO.

Ron
Ron
Alcineia, I know that Capture looks maybe intimidating at first,
but it's quite straight-forward once you process a few files. You
seem to have much experience with PS, so you'll adapt quickly.
After you open the NEF in Capture, first adjust the white balance
if needed. You can either adjust by setting the Color Temp. or by
setting the gray point on one or more neutral points.

Then use the EV adjustment in the Advanced RAW dialogue to change
the exposure if needed. Watch the histogram(Curves) and your image
while you adjust and you'll quickly see how much or little you need
to alter the image to get the best exposure. If you are familiar
with using Curves in PS, then you already know how to fine tune the
image with the superior curves dialogue in Capture.

After this I finally use Capture USM. For my D100 images(shot with
in-camera sharpening set at LOW, WB set at CLOUDY -3, AUTO
Contrast), I use settings of 65,5,8. Some images might require
different settings, but this usually does the job(just view the
image at 100% when sharpening and tweak to your own taste).

Then I go to Image> Open in Photoshop and finish up with the
resulting TIF file there. You can touch-up, adjust color balance
and crop like you want with the 16 bit file in PS 7. Can't you do
that in PS 6? If you want to size and save a copy for posting or
whatever, resize and then apply the needed USM, then make sure
you've changed the mode to 8 bit before saving and "save as" Jpg at
whatever quality you want.

The NEF is like a negative, so you'll want to save it plus the
full-size TIF in PS after you've made all of your edits.

Hope this helps some,
Craig
--
Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com
--
Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com
 
I want to know how did you get those eyes nice and sharp that way.Please show me step by step because I am not getting anything sharp here.Raw,tripop(a steady one!)and even selftimer,nooo way.This is driving me crazy.I use to get some nice and sharp.Is anything that I am doing wrong with the D100?Please let me know.
Alcineia Hello,
first! you photos are all great and full of light and love!
anything you used until now gave you a very nice result!
congratulations.....

I shoht my photos all in RAW, then in NC3 changing WB, lightlevels,
sharpness, If I want to show the photos in the net, I save them
directly from NC3 in 800x531 to JPG, if its necesary I change color
saturation and kontrast in PH....... thats all....

regrads Stefan

http://www2.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=90399
http://www.pbase.com/magus
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
You misunderstood. No program can save a Jpeg in 16bit format, since a jpeg is 8 bits only. So that's not a reason to not-upgrade.
I tryed to post a pic and this image could not get less than 500 kb
without losing quality.Now after reading here I think it is because
I left it in 16 bit.
PS 7 won't allow me to "save as" a 16 bit image in JPG format. I
don't use the "Save for Web" function. I just convert to 8 bit and
"save as" a JPG. I shoot all images in Mode II(Adobe RGB) and I
convert them to sRGB when posting them on the web. A quality
setting of 9 usually holds the file size down and still preserves
the details in the image.

Glad to help get you started with NEF's, Alcineia. If it's your
style, they are the only way to go.

Craig
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
--
DaveA
 
When doing an "auto levels/curves" adjustment, you can hold the Control key down and click it and it will not factor in color when doing the adjustment. It's nice to have when doing a straight auto levels causes large color shifts.
Alcineia Hello,
first! you photos are all great and full of light and love!
anything you used until now gave you a very nice result!
congratulations.....

I shoht my photos all in RAW, then in NC3 changing WB, lightlevels,
sharpness, If I want to show the photos in the net, I save them
directly from NC3 in 800x531 to JPG, if its necesary I change color
saturation and kontrast in PH....... thats all....

regrads Stefan

http://www2.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=90399
http://www.pbase.com/magus
--
Alcineia Frank
http://www2.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=665
D100 Nikon 28-105 F3.5
Nikon AFS 80-200 F2.8
Olympus C3000Z
 
Alcineia >

I shot my photos all in RAW, then in NC3 changing WB, lightlevels,
sharpness, If I want to show the photos in the net, I save them
directly from NC3 in 800x531 to JPG, if its necesary I change color
saturation and kontrast in PH....... thats all....

on the children fotos sometimes I use "neat-image" to make them soft,
all portraits are done with 50mm 1,4 or 85mm 1,8

more questions.... thats allready all.... :-))

regrads Stefan
 

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