Full Zoom ...

Lloydy

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... I was reading another thread which got into a silly debate about how sharp, or otherwise, Fuji 'superzooms' are at full zoom, particularly about the HS10.

Without getting into all the in's, and out's, of the argument - I have owned the HS10 EXR, S100 fs and have played around with the HS20 EXR.

I have found all were sharp at the 'pointy end of the stick'. I also have the F200 EXR and the same is true of that.

Sometime back I posted about the HS10 EXR at full zoom :

http://eyemindsoul.blogspot.com/2011/01/hs-10-hs-20-exr-lens-at-full-zoom.html

The reason I am posting this is that if you are considering a Fuji 'superzoom' (XS-1, HS30 EXR, etc) then I would be quite confident that it will be sharp (crisp) through the range.

The usual few who debate this never show examples.

As an aside, here a few very recent S100 fs images at full zoom :

















--
Regards, Dave

http://www.eyemindsoul.com
 
Read your blog entry for this post. You wrote:

"On one forum I participate in, there a couple of folk who continually say the HS-10 lens is 'soft' at full zoom. If I use the camera correctly, I have never found this.

I should also point out that those folk don't actually use the camera. "

Is it your position that one cannot evaluate an image without actually using the camera in question?

Example, I found the last rope shot in your post to be soft and devoid of a lot of significant detail (as compared to the others).

Is my opinion not valid because I never used the camera?

--

http://fujifilmimages.aminus3.com/
 
Since you've started this thread...

Let's continue the discussion here shall we?

They are saying that there is a huge difference if you get closer to the subject and use shorter focal length than shooting farther and using longest focal length.

These are my closest shots for comparison....

















Difference in distance between the shots is like 1-2 meters IIRC.

I don't have the HS10 anymore so I cannot replicate my results anymore. =D

Cheers,

-=[ Joms ]=-
 
Read your blog entry for this post. You wrote:

"On one forum I participate in, there a couple of folk who continually say the HS-10 lens is 'soft' at full zoom. If I use the camera correctly, I have never found this.

I should also point out that those folk don't actually use the camera. "

Is it your position that one cannot evaluate an image without actually using the camera in question?
This is a typical Lloydy lie. He's referring to the just maxxed out Snow Owls thread where I mentioned getting murky images when shooting distant photos at 720mm with the HS10. Too much the coward to poke his nose in there, he starts this thread showing once again his ability to mangle the truth. I not only use the HS10, I've posted the results of the tests that showed the poor results from the HS10 over a year ago and the photos also displayed photos showing how it did using Sony's 1758 1.7x teleconverter. I said then and I'll repeat now that its resolution was fairly decent, but its images didn't have the clarity of the other cameras that I shot, and the color was far less vibrant than the other camera, producing comparatively murky images.

He's the same guy that frequently lies with insults ("you've never posted photos") even though anyone could check the forum archives and see plenty of them. For Lloydy, the truth is often twisted when he feels the need to try to create a flame war with another contentious thread, hoping that the moderators that he frequently shows contempt for will do his bidding and hand out a few bans. l guess that the kindling that he fanned on his blog didn't reach the flames he hoped for so he thought that they might catch fire a little easier in this forum. BTW, the discussion in the other thread as noted several times was about shooting the XS-1 and HS10 and other cameras at their maximum focal lengths at great distances. His "Full Zoom" photos were all shot at very close distances, ignoring that I had said that the HS10 did much better at closer distances.

Example, I found the last rope shot in your post to be soft and devoid of a lot of significant detail (as compared to the others).

Is my opinion not valid because I never used the camera?
It's more valid than someone that has the camera and tries to prove one thing by showing something else. This is similar to one of his HS10 vs Nikon DSLR comparison that showed the HS10 having much greater resolution. When I pointed out that the DSLR didn't do well with the object of the test (foreground flowers) because the DSLR was focused on the building behind the flowers, Lloydy never replied. He simply packed up his bag and fled the thread. Just another of his bogus, misleading camera comparisons, and he's still at it.
 
nice shots Dave BTW..and looked through your HS10 long zoom shots ..Looks like you got good clarity with the HS10 if the subject was close or farther out as with the egrets..or white herons ..at least for the sizes posted. You always managed to get more out of that camera than most .I know I struggled with it and swore you had an exceptional copy- my way of feeling good about my inability ??LOL

thanks for posting these shots ..
g
--
http://skylightvistas.weebly.com/index.html
 
... I was reading another thread which got into a silly debate about how sharp, or otherwise, Fuji 'superzooms' are at full zoom, particularly about the HS10.

Without getting into all the in's, and out's, of the argument - I have owned the HS10 EXR, S100 fs and have played around with the HS20 EXR.

I have found all were sharp at the 'pointy end of the stick'. I also have the F200 EXR and the same is true of that.

Sometime back I posted about the HS10 EXR at full zoom :

http://eyemindsoul.blogspot.com/2011/01/hs-10-hs-20-exr-lens-at-full-zoom.html

The reason I am posting this is that if you are considering a Fuji 'superzoom' (XS-1, HS30 EXR, etc) then I would be quite confident that it will be sharp (crisp) through the range.

The usual few who debate this never show examples.

As an aside, here a few very recent S100 fs images at full zoom :
I feel years younger already realising that there is potential for an all in S100 / S200 / HS10 / HS20 / XS1 Battle Royal with the winner getting the first prize of ...... a S6500 :-)
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S100, S6500, S5, F300, F200, F70, F11, F31 (deceased), Z5, V10, D40, EX1
 
you proved that multiples of times .. with a zillion examples...most of which put what I came up (with with the same cam) to shame .. You took the time to figure out how to get the best from the HS10 and did the forum a great service in sharing what you learned..I returned the cam before really getting the hang of it I guess..as I did the HS20.

http://skylightvistas.weebly.com/index.html
 
... I was reading another thread which got into a silly debate about how sharp, or otherwise, Fuji 'superzooms' are at full zoom, particularly about the HS10.

Without getting into all the in's, and out's, of the argument - I have owned the HS10 EXR, S100 fs and have played around with the HS20 EXR.

I have found all were sharp at the 'pointy end of the stick'. I also have the F200 EXR and the same is true of that.
Absolutely true, they are more than "usable" too and quite acceptable for telephoto work.

No doubt the usual belligerents will mention that there are sharper DSLR lenses in existence for several gazzilion dollars, just in case we forget of course.
Bless their souls.



















 
Read your blog entry for this post. You wrote:

"On one forum I participate in, there a couple of folk who continually say the HS-10 lens is 'soft' at full zoom. If I use the camera correctly, I have never found this.

I should also point out that those folk don't actually use the camera. "

Is it your position that one cannot evaluate an image without actually using the camera in question?

Example, I found the last rope shot in your post to be soft and devoid of a lot of significant detail (as compared to the others).

Is my opinion not valid because I never used the camera?
Or is it?
 
Is my opinion not valid because I never used the camera?
Or is it?
It's not valid if you go by the well known Lloydy Conjecture, which he has posted many times over the years, which is that to have a valid opinion about a camera one must shoot using the camera and then post the pictures shot with the camera.
con·jec·ture (kn-jkchr)
  1. Inference or judgment based on inconclusive or incomplete evidence; guesswork.
  2. A statement, opinion, or conclusion based on guesswork: The commentators made various conjectures about the outcome of the next election.
 
... I am presenting evidence of my experience. You are presenting opinion.

Of course, you are entitled to give your opinion, I am entitled to show my results.
--
Regards, Dave

http://www.eyemindsoul.com
 
... I am presenting evidence of my experience. You are presenting opinion.
No, I presented a question . Not an opinion.
Of course, you are entitled to give your opinion, I am entitled to show my results.
--
Yes, that's great but has nothing to do with my question. Does one need to handle a camera in order to make an accurate judgment on images produced from said camera?

Your blog indicates that this is true. I cannot reconcile this fact. Does one even have to know what camera produced an image in order to judge its quality?

Please elaborate.
 
Is my opinion not valid because I never used the camera?
Or is it?
It's not valid if you go by the well known Lloydy Conjecture, which he has posted many times over the years, which is that to have a valid opinion about a camera one must shoot using the camera and then post the pictures shot with the camera.
con·jec·ture (kn-jkchr)
  1. Inference or judgment based on inconclusive or incomplete evidence; guesswork.
  2. A statement, opinion, or conclusion based on guesswork: The commentators made various conjectures about the outcome of the next election.
What if you arent told what camera made the image?

--

http://fujifilmimages.aminus3.com/
 
"On one forum I participate in, there a couple of folk who continually say the HS-10 lens is 'soft' at full zoom. If I use the camera correctly, I have never found this.
Not suprising, you're never having to hang off the lame body IS, the shutter speeds in Thailand must be very fast indeed .. most of my soft long end HS20 shots (all of them in fact) were down to the inability to get the shutter speed high enough to hold the thing at full zoom in the dull rainy UK even wideopen let alone the needed F6.3 (we didn't even get a May sunny patch last year) .... S100FS and the Canon SX10, 20, 30 (and I assume 40) no problem, their excellent optical IS allowed a very UK friendly 40th sec upto about 400mm and the canons not a lot more at their full zooms ! .
I should also point out that those folk don't actually use the camera. "
probably because they (with the HS10) didn't find it good enough ? - Who'd buy and use a camera which doesn't do the job . the issue with the HS10 isn't the lens, it's a combination of that Crappy 10Mp Backlit CMOS and vastly overzealous NR - Sony's HX100 is even worse (if that's possible), looks like an LG mobile phone
uprezzed to 16Mp

--
A Problem is only the pessimistic way of looking at a challenge

 
... I was reading another thread which got into a silly debate about how sharp, or otherwise, Fuji 'superzooms' are at full zoom, particularly about the HS10.
I think it was me who started that 'silly' debate - which I don't think was silly at all, when put into the context of the problems with the snow owl shots taken in very grey cold weather and poor atmospheric conditions - over distance and preposterously long focal lengths.

I completely stand by the comments I made in that thread. You live in a sunny bright climate, so no doubt manage to ascertain much faster shutter speeds routinely than I do here in the damp grey north west of England. You may suffer from heat haze, but if you already have a faster shutter speed, that might not prove to be as detrimental.

I didn't say it wasn't capable of sharp shots, but that you need a lot of factors to be in your favour to get the best from it. I'm not sure how that basic premise of photography and geometry can really be disputed.

Presumably, if you thought the HS10 were the better camera, you would have kept that and sold the S100?
You can even get decent results with the HS20 - when handled properly and the conditions are right.
Granted, the owl shot is from quite close, but the goldfinch was from the full 720mm equivalent. What I have noticed is that to get sharp shots at full zoom, the light needs to be really good and the shutter speed fast - in fact this one was slightly slower than I'd remembered, at 1/450. And that was with full crisp sunshine on the subject on a cold morning.
I have this idea that with a slow shutter speed, regardless of the ability to hand hold or the stillness of the subject, a slower speed just allows more atmospheric movement/interference to be caught if at real distance. With my HS20 I've just decided that it really does need a fast shutter speed at full zoom and really good clean light to get crisp results
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So many photos, so little time . . .
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Please do not amend and re-post my images unless specifically requested or given permission to do so.
 

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