Tips for manual focusing?

I have a Panasonic G3 with a Nikon lens adapter to use some of my dad's old lenses. I like that it forces me to do everything manually. I've been somewhat "afraid" of manual focus for sometime now but I want to get over it.

Does anybody have any tips on how to get "good" at manual focusing? I second guess myself a lot on whether it's in focus or not. On a tripod it's not too bad, but hand-held I get very nervous, especially with a narrow depth of field. Also, my camera has a function where it zooms in a little while manual focusing, any advice on how to best use that?

Thanks!

45matai said:

Does anybody have any tips on how to get "good" at manual focusing?

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And a lot of practice helps, as well.

Real world though, most digital cameras are really bad tools for manual focus, due to screen resolution or viewfinder issues - they're just not set up for the 'roll your own focus' addict. Don't let that discourage you - if you want it, you can learn it.

Have fun.

--

Rob.

The internet... allowing me to laugh at people without having to actually meet them.

I'm not familiar with your camera but I have some MF prime lenses that I use on my Pentax K7 DSLR. There are two tricks I use for manual focussing.

1. This is where live-view really comes into its own: I can expand the live-view image up to 12x which makes precise manual focus very easy even with wide apertures and a narrow depth of field.

2. With wider angle lenses: use hyperfocal focussing. With a 28mm lens on my camera, the hyperfocal distance is 16 feet (I looked it up on a depth-of-field table). So I set the lens to f/8 and focus to 16 feet (using the scale on the front of the lens), and everything from 8 feet to infinity will be in focus - great for street shooting.

Best wishes
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Mike

Try picking point of focus and get the maximum sharpness. With shallow DOF this may be tricky (especially in macro) so you may have to hit the shutter just a fraction of a sec once you're done focusing. The longer that time gap is (handheld shots), the chances are you'll be out of focus. Sometimes you can breathe and you manage to be out of focus already. So, practice, as one of the posters mentioned, is essential. Just try it on stable or predictable subject....and progress at your speed...and go on from there. After 40 yrs, I prefer manual focus, since I know what I'm focusing on vs what the camera decides. Yes, many more keepers this way.

Leswick

If you have a G3 it is much easier handheld than a DSLR because you can magnify the image in the EVF. Use the EVF rather than the LCD if you want to keep the camera as steady as possible.
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Chris R

It's nearly impossible on most DSLRs through the viewfinder. If you look through a flilm SLR, the viewfinder is considerably dimmer than DSLRs. That dimness means that in focus images are much more easily differentiated (they "pop" into focus) even outside the microprism/split prism.

If you want to get better, I'd highly reccomend starting with a katzeye or similar split prism screen, they'll make it easier to see focus. Even with that it will still require a decent amount of practice.

Live view works well too. The other way is with a mirrorless camera, because it already uses live view, so you can zoom in to nail focus or with some (Sony Nex line at least) use focus peaking which highlights the highest contrast areas on the screen). That's probably the fastest easiest method to focus with a digital camera.

Leswick said:

Try picking point of focus and get the maximum sharpness. With shallow DOF this may be tricky (especially in macro) so you may have to hit the shutter just a fraction of a sec once you're done focusing. The longer that time gap is (handheld shots), the chances are you'll be out of focus. Sometimes you can breathe and you manage to be out of focus already. So, practice, as one of the posters mentioned, is essential. Just try it on stable or predictable subject....and progress at your speed...and go on from there. After 40 yrs, I prefer manual focus, since I know what I'm focusing on vs what the camera decides. Yes, many more keepers this way.

Leswick

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Wow! Great! Another manual focuser. Thought I was the last one standing. I agree with you, why let the camera decide? Anyway I do it better.

To the OP; One tip. If you have difficulty, go focusing slowly, focus gets better, continue, focus gets worse, reverse, focus gets better, continue, focus gets worse. Well focus is in the middle more or less.

Anyway don't get nervous. It's only digital. No film wasted. And practice a lot. It becomes second nature.

I also have a G3 and my 2 favorite lenses are from my old Minolta SRT 101. Therefore, just like you I'm forced to deal with manual focusing.

I agree with 'practice' but also recommend using the EVF to be able to enlarge the subject to allow finer focusing. That's been a struggle when I try to capture some grandkids sports action, but keep at it. I've been able to use it successfully more often than not. During soccer games, even if the focus is somewhat off, using burst mode gets at least some in focus.

Biggest problem though is fading eyesight which doesn't work so well with MF.

Chris R-UK said:

If you have a G3 it is much easier handheld than a DSLR because you can magnify the image in the EVF. Use the EVF rather than the LCD if you want to keep the camera as steady as possible.

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If you want to use the LCD, you can put the strap around your neck, let the camera hang down and hold it at waist level (pressed against your gut if you like), and hold your elbows to your sides. You can look down at the LCD and manually focus using the larger LCD screen. Many folks find this keeps the camera even more stable than if they are holding it up against their face.

--
Tom

45matai said:

I have a Panasonic G3 with a Nikon lens adapter to use some of my dad's old lenses. I like that it forces me to do everything manually. I've been somewhat "afraid" of manual focus for sometime now but I want to get over it.

Does anybody have any tips on how to get "good" at manual focusing? I second guess myself a lot on whether it's in focus or not. On a tripod it's not too bad, but hand-held I get very nervous, especially with a narrow depth of field. Also, my camera has a function where it zooms in a little while manual focusing, any advice on how to best use that?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

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Ananda
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/6861540877/a-compilation-of-tips-for-beginners
http://anandasim.blogspot.com/
http://gplus.to/anandasim

'Enjoy Diversity - Live a Little or a Lot'

This might not apply to your G3 situation, but a breakthrough for me was realizing that the autofocus system in my Canon gives me focus feedback even in manual mode. As I twisted the focus ring, the red LED would light up if the subject under the focus point was in focus. And it took depth of field into account, since other focus points in the viewfinder would also light up if within focus during manual focusing.

This may not apply to a body used with a lens adapter, which can't use the focusing system, but I'm hoping it'll help someone who does want to manual focus with a system lens. To me this was what I needed to replace the old split screen/microprism aids.

mike703 said:

I'm not familiar with your camera but I have some MF prime lenses that I use on my Pentax K7 DSLR. There are two tricks I use for manual focussing.

1. This is where live-view really comes into its own: I can expand the live-view image up to 12x which makes precise manual focus very easy even with wide apertures and a narrow depth of field.

Click to expand...

Wow, that's a great tip about live view, thanks! I too have old manual focus lenses and have been unable to use them much because of focus issues. In the old days I could focus on a dime... now my failing eyesight is a real hinderance, even with glasses on. Although it occurs to me that it might still be a problem on very sunny days (which is why I wanted the viewfinder of a DSLR).

--

"Above all, we are coming to understand that the arts incarnate the creativity of a free people. When the creative impulse cannot flourish, when it cannot freely select its methods and objects, when it is deprived of spontaneity, then society severs the root of art."
— John F. Kennedy

nelsonal said:

It's nearly impossible on most DSLRs through the viewfinder.

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I hope you meant to say 'for me'.

If this is some blanket statement meant to speak for all photographers - I beg to differ.

I use manual focus lenses 95% of the time on my DX Dslr's. No Katz, no live view - but I do have really good eye sight. I know other photographers don't. That may be your problem. Your eye sight may be horrible compared to mine.

'Nearly impossible' - so funny and so wrong. Or maybe I (and the millions of photographers that use manual focus every day) am just REALLY lucky 95% of the time... yeah that's it - it pure luck!

LeeStar said:

mike703 said:

I'm not familiar with your camera but I have some MF prime lenses that I use on my Pentax K7 DSLR. There are two tricks I use for manual focussing.

1. This is where live-view really comes into its own: I can expand the live-view image up to 12x which makes precise manual focus very easy even with wide apertures and a narrow depth of field.

Click to expand...

Wow, that's a great tip about live view, thanks! I too have old manual focus lenses and have been unable to use them much because of focus issues. In the old days I could focus on a dime... now my failing eyesight is a real hinderance, even with glasses on. Although it occurs to me that it might still be a problem on very sunny days (which is why I wanted the viewfinder of a DSLR).

Click to expand...

I believe the live-view magnification focus aid button came from pro video cameras, and was added to SLRs in part when video was added to them. And some insist adding video has done nothing but hurt cameras for still photographers!

Wow, I'm impressed. I consider it a successful day if I get better than 50% in focus with a split prism. Your eyesight must be very, very good.

I used nearly to indicate that if you have amazing eyesight it's probably possible but I hadn't met or seen anyone who could nail focus on a crop body at f/2 faster without some sort of aid. I'll try to make that more clear going forward.

Hello,

Other than what has already been mentioned by others, I would say to practise 'preparing' the shot. This is particularly useful in faster moving subjects. For example, some sports will have reasonably predictable paths/trajectories (i.e. motor racing). Choose a point where the subject is likely to pass and focus on there so when the subject 'arrives' you have already achieved focus. Some subjects are going to be a little more difficult (where the subject dodges around) but with a greater depth of field you can usually catch the shot.

Regards,

Gary

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http://www.facebook.com/pages/Gary-Muris%D1%BBn-Ph%D1%BBt%D1%BBgraphy/215744688457537

Perhaps you are not aware that auto focus is relatively brand new, when you consider how long cameras have been in use. Since that is the case, how did all those millions and millions of photographers before autofocus manage to get in-focus shots?

Do you think they just blew thru silver plates at a rate of 50% or less keepers? Did all the first generations of 35mm shooters buy 10 rolls of film hoping to get some keepers out 5 of those? (ha - SOME did!)

No, of course not - I bet when Michael Jordan first got a chance as a kid to throw a ball at the hoop, he missed. And probably missed the second one as well. Maybe even the third and forth - but through constant practice AND inherent skill that percentage went up. WAY up!

Here is what my eyesight is like - when driving on the highway, I clearly read the signs a full 20-30 seconds before anyone else I know - and thats traveling at 50-70mph - a good distance before others. I read the street/shop signs small print across the street when others I know can't make out the main fonts.

I spot eagles and rabbits and deer in the woods while people I know can't see anything but trees. i know my eyes sight is great, always has been.

nelsonal said:

Wow, I'm impressed. I consider it a successful day if I get better than 50% in focus with a split prism. Your eyesight must be very, very good.

I used nearly to indicate that if you have amazing eyesight it's probably possible but I hadn't met or seen anyone who could nail focus on a crop body at f/2 faster without some sort of aid. I'll try to make that more clear going forward.

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Faster? What does faster have to do with it? My photography is never a race - I don't shoot action, I don't do 'events', I dictate with an iron hand the pace... why is this concept of successful manual focusing so hard for you to believe? Millions and millions do it every day - even today they are out there doing it. I am doing it today and having great success.

When a wedding photographer friend tells me about their job, how cool, low stress and easy it was - I don't doubt them straight out of hand because I lack the skills or desire to it. I just congratulate them.

I was attempting to congratulate you, I wasn't being sarcastic. I realize that without the non-verbal cues of speech, typed praise can sound sarcastic but none was meant. I really am impressed. I have decent vision (I can see Mizar and Alcor in the big dipper) and was totally unable to manually focus without an aide (I'm cheap, but tried enough to know that my practice wasn't leading to any improvement).

You've hit the genetic lottery which is wonderful, but I'd caution you to consider that advicing people without your gifts that they can achieve the same results you can with practice may be futile. Just because Michael Jordan can dunk from the foul line(another feat I'd describe as nearly impossible) that it would be anything less than difficult to impossible for many others (even with a lifetime of practice it's never going to happen for me either).

I've also used very old cameras (with only a wire frame sports finders) to take sharp photos, but used distance based focusing or a magnifiying loupe to clearly see the ground glass image (usually with very small apertures nearly everything in the frame was "in focus"). When I said faster I meant faster apeture, I apoligize for my lack of linguistic precision. I didn't mean for any reference to the time taken to take a photo (the more methodical pace of manually focusing is something I enjoy).

I said nothing advising others to 'do as I do' - I only spoke of my 'special' condition. Good luck with yours!

nelsonal said:

I was attempting to congratulate you, I wasn't being sarcastic. I realize that without the non-verbal cues of speech, typed praise can sound sarcastic but none was meant. I really am impressed. I have decent vision (I can see Mizar and Alcor in the big dipper) and was totally unable to manually focus without an aide (I'm cheap, but tried enough to know that my practice wasn't leading to any improvement).

You've hit the genetic lottery which is wonderful, but advising all of us who haven't that we can do things you can may not be the best advice. Be cautious advicing people without your gifts that they can achieve the same results you can with practice. Just because Michael Jordan can dunk from the foul line(another feat I'd describe as nearly impossible) that it would be anything less than difficult to impossible for many others (even with a lifetime of practice it's never going to happen for me either).

I've also used very old cameras (with only a wire frame sports finders) to take sharp photos, but used distance based focusing or a magnifiying loupe to clearly see the ground glass image (usually with very small apertures nearly everything in the frame was "in focus"). When I said faster I meant faster apeture, I apoligize for my lack of linguistic precision. I didn't mean for any reference to the time taken to take a photo (the more methodical pace of manually focusing is something I enjoy).

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