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There's no NR LOW in the JPG engine, all the detail captured by that sensor and the CZ lens is smeared away even at base ISO and as the ISO rises, it gets exponentially worse (800 looks like a peanut sensor P&S whereas in RAW, it's very usable indeed) , if Ron is happy with the JPGs that's great but even in 2006 I immedietly switched to RAW as fast as I could find the menu option, I'd honestly not give the JPGs another glance unless you're happy with about 5Mp's worth of resolution (I'm sure the 5Mp even older E1 outresolves it in JPG) ..............That's interesting. Can you post a sample with your settings?
Yeah same here - I've not had to alter white balance and the output is about the same sharpness as a Canon 40D + 17-55 F2.8 - not as sharp as a D2X by quite a way (AA filter) but very good - the lens is excellent for CA. Distortion and Vignetting (better than the various FF 24-xx DSLR lenses) but the long end is a bit soft especially at infinity (as were the others I've used previously in 2006 & the one I owned then)Took it out today to get some landscapes, reviewing the images now. Nice getting to know it's fine points once again.
Highlight recovery isn't bad at all (same as the D2X suprise suprise) , I find selecting the smallest focus point and aiming for the deepest part of a scene and shooting at F5.6 does the trick with landscapes - the AF is more consistent than any 10Mp Nikon or Canon body (D80, 200, 40X, 60 - 40D, 400D etc) , that's contrast detect for yaGetting the best out of the R1 can be a bit finicky at times, need to really nail the exposure just right- but when you do, stop the press!![]()
I find the lens sharp right from F2.8 across the frame at 24mm - the 120 end needs F5.6 and preferably F8 if you're shooting stuff further away to get there - same with all the R1s I've used - I'd rather have the tack sharpness at the wide end with no edge or CA issues than like the Nikon 24-120VR which is awful at 24mm even at F5.6 (FF) and sharp at 120I'd use f5.6 for the long end but prefer f/8 for more even corner sharpness and a bit more DOF.
Dunno, haven't used a 16-80 past the one dud one I tried in 2008 - the R1 doesn't "suck" at 120mm but it ain't sharp past 30 feet wideopen - sharp at close range though .It certainly doesn't suck wide open, much better performance than the SZ 16-80 on Alphas.
The R1 actually is about Fuji level with bugs - very un-Sony like . the X100's foibles are less damning really if annoying to some (doesn't stop me using it for indoor silent shoots for work which I bought it for) -The R1 is excellent in it's execution in this regard, albeit a bit dated looking menu wise and just slightly lacking some extra functionality that would have really nailed the coffin shut
Hmm not sure I agree with "bugs" in that way.The R1 actually is about Fuji level with bugs - very un-Sony like . the X100's foibles are less damning really if annoying to some (doesn't stop me using it for indoor silent shoots for work which I bought it for) -The R1 is excellent in it's execution in this regard, albeit a bit dated looking menu wise and just slightly lacking some extra functionality that would have really nailed the coffin shut
I'll take your word for it, never use flash for my work, bounce flash occasionally for interior family shots.Unlike every other EVF cam the R1 won't give a constant view when shooting external non-TTL flash or strobes, it's always in preview mode (even if you select monitor) and with no OVF you can't see what you're shooting, The cam's amazing flash Sync capability is totally lost..
Hmmm, I did a test using a Sandisk Extreme III card vs the Pro HG Duo card and found very little difference in speed. CF card was about a second or two longer. With faster cards the R1 doesn't really lag like it did back when it first came to the market.It writes twice as fast to MS as to CF cards which is a total pain as you have to use MS to get usable shot to shot speeds in RAW
I don't consider that a design bug.It uses full length MS sticks so you have to use DUOs in an adapter although it was made long after DUO sticks) --
I have no issue with that.the command dials can't be configured (reversed in operation etc) --
I've seen worse Jpeg engines honestly. Even from Sony's DSLRS. But I shoot raw so... its mootthe JPG engine is horrific at high ISOs even by Sony standards, modern P&Ss like the S90 beat it at ISO800/1600 !! in JPG (it's very very usable in RAW at 800/1600 though and leaves P&Ss for dead) --
Not for me. I just keep it out and away if I have it on Auto, got quite used to it. And if I intend on using the LCD on top, I just make a quick switch. But thats me, not you. All personal opines here.you have to tell it when there's a non TTL flash fitted (though it doesn't matter as you can't see what you're aiming at half the time)
The eye detector for the Auto EVF switch is totally useless as it stops you using the cam at waist level - it's way way too sensitive
Not sure if you've used the X100 or not, but there's no way the R1 is on that same level, at least to me. Everything seems to be fluid for me using the R1- makes sense in other words.Saying all that - I love the weird Quirky R1 and always did (I could do a longer post on POSITIVE points ! , my point is that it's NOT really the cam to use to compare Bug-free-ness with the X100 or anything else - it's even more half baked in more serious ways IMO (EVF view with Ext flash etc)
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