Red

Just don't ove expose and your reds will be fine.
The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.
--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)
 
What a novel concept! You mean that exposure is important when using a Sigma camera? Does this apply to photography in general?
The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.
--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)
--
Laurence
laurence at appledore-farm dot com

La chance ne sourit qu'aux esprits bien préparés.
Chance favors the prepared mind.
Louis Pasteur

http://www.pbase.com/lmatson/root
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/root
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/dp1
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd14
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd10
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd9
 
in my house. yes. as for the outside world, we'll have to ask Gene.
What a novel concept! You mean that exposure is important when using a Sigma camera? Does this apply to photography in general?
The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.
--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)
--
Laurence
laurence at appledore-farm dot com

La chance ne sourit qu'aux esprits bien préparés.
Chance favors the prepared mind.
Louis Pasteur

http://www.pbase.com/lmatson/root
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/root
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/dp1
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd14
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd10
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd9
--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)
 
Let's just stipulate up front that I'm reeeally stoopid.

See the following picture. This happens to me all the time.

Now, what should I do w/r/t exposure so that the reds (and yellows and oranges for that matter) come out looking as they should and not like this? Use -n EV on every picture that contains red/yellow/orange flowers? If so, how do I solve for n? Everything else looks just fine to me, if I underexpose the rest won't that lead to other problems?



Thanks for any charity you might bestow on the severely intellectually challenged.

Len
What a novel concept! You mean that exposure is important when using a Sigma camera? Does this apply to photography in general?
The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.
 
That's a JPG, which means that all kinds of user-controllable variables went into making it look the way it does. I could take an image with any digital camera and process it so it looks like that. I could also take your image and reduce the saturation, esp. of red, and make it look less extreme.
 
Let's just stipulate up front that I'm reeeally stoopid.

See the following picture. This happens to me all the time.

Now, what should I do w/r/t exposure so that the reds (and yellows and oranges for that matter) come out looking as they should and not like this? Use -n EV on every picture that contains red/yellow/orange flowers? If so, how do I solve for n?
The solution is pretty much always -0.7 (2/3 stop) unless the red is vibrant and in direct sunlight surrounded by shadowed areas, then possibly up to -1.3.

If you turn on warnings you'll see highlights go, that can also help (I agree it looks ugly; I generally just eyeball it).

I'm a bit surprised reds blew out in that particular image though, what RAW converter did you use? Do you have the X3F file you could share?
Everything else looks just fine to me, if I underexpose the rest won't that lead to other problems?
You can recover more shadow detail than you might think and -0.7 is not really that far to recover from.

--
---> Kendall
http://InsideAperture.com
http://www.pbase.com/kgelner
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/user_home
 
With my Bayer sensor camera I often find that an image can be correctly exposed overall, yet a strong primary color like red or yellow will be completely blown out. So it's not just a Sigma problem
 
I don't get all these reported problems with colours - but then, if colour is important (I mostly work for B+W) I always use CWB.

Using AUTO in SPP for processing has always caused colour problems. I expose correctly and use the basic X3F file for making a JPEG for working. I have posted numerous examples over the years from the SD9 and SD14.

Not flowers but perhaps flowering? :-P



Zone8

The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 using black ink only:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1003&message=33148491&q=zone8+1400+b+w+plain&qf=m
 
Hi Dave,
I'm not convinced about this with my DP1 at least. I've done some tests where I have induced flourescent dayglo reds or magenta reds even with 3 stops underexposure.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml
another possibility is to replace the DP1 filter, with the DP1s filter:





...or just buy a DP1s! ;)

-

P.S.:

Because of the far better (N)IR suppression, the DP1s is less suited for IR photography than the DP1, if shorter exposure times are wanted.

If one like, one can make a test with a DP1 and DP1s, both additional equipped with a filter for (N)IR photography.

A 665 nm or even a 715 nm filter shows huge differences in exposure time between the DP1 and DP1s.

--
If I´m writing in bold letters, I do not shout , like one mentioned to me -
I´m just trying to improve the readability!

Uli
 
Hello Dave,
Does this mean the original DP1 might benefit from the use of an external Hot mirror IR filter?

I remember this was one of the solutions put forward for solving noise problems with the ill-fated Nikon D2h and of course Leica M8.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml
theoretical yes,

but a external Hot mirror IR filter can cause more problems than it would solve, if attached outside in front of the DP1 lens.

--
If I´m writing in bold letters, I do not shout , like one mentioned to me -
I´m just trying to improve the readability!

Uli
 
The reds there aren't blown or mis-coloured but they are right on the edge, aren't they. That may be a faithful rendition but it doesn't look like one ;-) Personally, I'd prefer more restrained red.
Somehow, Dave, I don't think the señoritas would agree with you. :-P

Zone8

The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 using black ink only:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1003&message=33148491&q=zone8+1400+b+w+plain&qf=m
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

The photo is from SPP 4.2, all settings auto, saturation at .4 or so. The excessive red saturation is there at 0.

I have to run, maybe I can upload the RAW later.

Len
Let's just stipulate up front that I'm reeeally stoopid.

See the following picture. This happens to me all the time.

Now, what should I do w/r/t exposure so that the reds (and yellows and oranges for that matter) come out looking as they should and not like this? Use -n EV on every picture that contains red/yellow/orange flowers? If so, how do I solve for n?
The solution is pretty much always -0.7 (2/3 stop) unless the red is vibrant and in direct sunlight surrounded by shadowed areas, then possibly up to -1.3.

If you turn on warnings you'll see highlights go, that can also help (I agree it looks ugly; I generally just eyeball it).

I'm a bit surprised reds blew out in that particular image though, what RAW converter did you use? Do you have the X3F file you could share?
Everything else looks just fine to me, if I underexpose the rest won't that lead to other problems?
You can recover more shadow detail than you might think and -0.7 is not really that far to recover from.

--
---> Kendall
http://InsideAperture.com
http://www.pbase.com/kgelner
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/user_home
 

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