Red

bluekite · Feb 10, 2011

The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.

Chunsum J Choi · Feb 10, 2011

Just don't ove expose and your reds will be fine.

bluekite said:
The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.

--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)

Laurence Matson · Feb 10, 2011

What a novel concept! You mean that exposure is important when using a Sigma camera? Does this apply to photography in general?

Chunsum J Choi said:
bluekite said:

The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.

Click to expand...

--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)

--
Laurence
laurence at appledore-farm dot com

La chance ne sourit qu'aux esprits bien préparés.
Chance favors the prepared mind.
Louis Pasteur

http://www.pbase.com/lmatson/root
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/root
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/dp1
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd14
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd10
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd9

Chunsum J Choi · Feb 10, 2011

in my house. yes. as for the outside world, we'll have to ask Gene.

Laurence Matson said:
What a novel concept! You mean that exposure is important when using a Sigma camera? Does this apply to photography in general?

Chunsum J Choi said:

bluekite said:

The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.

Click to expand...

--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)

Click to expand...

--
Laurence
laurence at appledore-farm dot com

La chance ne sourit qu'aux esprits bien préparés.
Chance favors the prepared mind.
Louis Pasteur

http://www.pbase.com/lmatson/root
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/root
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/dp1
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd14
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd10
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd9

--
http://www.chunsum.com (Website/Blog)
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chunsum (Gallery)
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr (Sigma Users Gallery)

Len5742 · Feb 10, 2011

Let's just stipulate up front that I'm reeeally stoopid.

See the following picture. This happens to me all the time.

Now, what should I do w/r/t exposure so that the reds (and yellows and oranges for that matter) come out looking as they should and not like this? Use -n EV on every picture that contains red/yellow/orange flowers? If so, how do I solve for n? Everything else looks just fine to me, if I underexpose the rest won't that lead to other problems?

Thanks for any charity you might bestow on the severely intellectually challenged.

Len

Laurence Matson said:
What a novel concept! You mean that exposure is important when using a Sigma camera? Does this apply to photography in general?

Chunsum J Choi said:

bluekite said:

The Sigma SD1 site is plastered with a red theme and a model in a flowing red dress.

http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD1/message.html

I hope they have conquered the blown red problems.

I get this a lot with red roses.

N.
--
There is more happiness in giving than receiving.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

KM Legacy · Feb 10, 2011

That's a JPG, which means that all kinds of user-controllable variables went into making it look the way it does. I could take an image with any digital camera and process it so it looks like that. I could also take your image and reduce the saturation, esp. of red, and make it look less extreme.

stanislaw stitchanow · Feb 10, 2011

are they solved also?

Kendall Helmstetter Gelner · Feb 10, 2011

Len5742 said:
Let's just stipulate up front that I'm reeeally stoopid.

See the following picture. This happens to me all the time.

Now, what should I do w/r/t exposure so that the reds (and yellows and oranges for that matter) come out looking as they should and not like this? Use -n EV on every picture that contains red/yellow/orange flowers? If so, how do I solve for n?

The solution is pretty much always -0.7 (2/3 stop) unless the red is vibrant and in direct sunlight surrounded by shadowed areas, then possibly up to -1.3.

If you turn on warnings you'll see highlights go, that can also help (I agree it looks ugly; I generally just eyeball it).

I'm a bit surprised reds blew out in that particular image though, what RAW converter did you use? Do you have the X3F file you could share?

Len5742 said:
Everything else looks just fine to me, if I underexpose the rest won't that lead to other problems?

You can recover more shadow detail than you might think and -0.7 is not really that far to recover from.

--
---> Kendall
http://InsideAperture.com
http://www.pbase.com/kgelner
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/user_home

KM Legacy · Feb 10, 2011

With my Bayer sensor camera I often find that an image can be correctly exposed overall, yet a strong primary color like red or yellow will be completely blown out. So it's not just a Sigma problem

DavidMillier · Feb 10, 2011

I'm not convinced about this with my DP1 at least. I've done some tests where I have induced flourescent dayglo reds or magenta reds even with 3 stops underexposure.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

DavidMillier · Feb 10, 2011

With my DP1 that is what generally happens (in raw) sometimes even with a couple of stops less exposure so that the rest of the image is very dark.

This is not a user error situation, it's inherent in the camera.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

DavidMillier · Feb 10, 2011

Kendall

-3 stops is often not enough. This is not a simple matter of exposure.
--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

Zone8 · Feb 11, 2011

I don't get all these reported problems with colours - but then, if colour is important (I mostly work for B+W) I always use CWB.

Using AUTO in SPP for processing has always caused colour problems. I expose correctly and use the basic X3F file for making a JPEG for working. I have posted numerous examples over the years from the SD9 and SD14.

Not flowers but perhaps flowering?

Zone8

The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 using black ink only:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1003&message=33148491&q=zone8+1400+b+w+plain&qf=m

Usee · Feb 11, 2011

Hi Dave,

DMillier said:
I'm not convinced about this with my DP1 at least. I've done some tests where I have induced flourescent dayglo reds or magenta reds even with 3 stops underexposure.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

another possibility is to replace the DP1 filter, with the DP1s filter:

...or just buy a DP1s!

-

P.S.:

Because of the far better (N)IR suppression, the DP1s is less suited for IR photography than the DP1, if shorter exposure times are wanted.

If one like, one can make a test with a DP1 and DP1s, both additional equipped with a filter for (N)IR photography.

A 665 nm or even a 715 nm filter shows huge differences in exposure time between the DP1 and DP1s.

--
If I´m writing in bold letters, I do not shout , like one mentioned to me -
I´m just trying to improve the readability!

Uli

D Cox · Feb 11, 2011

Those solid red flowers remind me of Kodachrome. ;-)

DavidMillier · Feb 11, 2011

Does this mean the original DP1 might benefit from the use of an external Hot mirror IR filter?

I remember this was one of the solutions put forward for solving noise problems with the ill-fated Nikon D2h and of course Leica M8.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

DavidMillier · Feb 11, 2011

The reds there aren't blown or mis-coloured but they are right on the edge, aren't they. That may be a faithful rendition but it doesn't look like one ;-) Personally, I'd prefer more restrained red.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

Usee · Feb 11, 2011

Hello Dave,

DMillier said:
Does this mean the original DP1 might benefit from the use of an external Hot mirror IR filter?

I remember this was one of the solutions put forward for solving noise problems with the ill-fated Nikon D2h and of course Leica M8.

--
Galleries and website: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/default.shtml

theoretical yes,

but a external Hot mirror IR filter can cause more problems than it would solve, if attached outside in front of the DP1 lens.

--
If I´m writing in bold letters, I do not shout , like one mentioned to me -
I´m just trying to improve the readability!

Uli

Zone8 · Feb 11, 2011

DMillier said:
The reds there aren't blown or mis-coloured but they are right on the edge, aren't they. That may be a faithful rendition but it doesn't look like one ;-) Personally, I'd prefer more restrained red.

Somehow, Dave, I don't think the señoritas would agree with you.

Zone8

The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 using black ink only:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1003&message=33148491&q=zone8+1400+b+w+plain&qf=m

Len5742 · Feb 11, 2011

Thanks for the suggestions.

The photo is from SPP 4.2, all settings auto, saturation at .4 or so. The excessive red saturation is there at 0.

I have to run, maybe I can upload the RAW later.

Len

Kendall Helmstetter Gelner said:
Len5742 said:

Let's just stipulate up front that I'm reeeally stoopid.

See the following picture. This happens to me all the time.

Now, what should I do w/r/t exposure so that the reds (and yellows and oranges for that matter) come out looking as they should and not like this? Use -n EV on every picture that contains red/yellow/orange flowers? If so, how do I solve for n?

Click to expand...

The solution is pretty much always -0.7 (2/3 stop) unless the red is vibrant and in direct sunlight surrounded by shadowed areas, then possibly up to -1.3.

If you turn on warnings you'll see highlights go, that can also help (I agree it looks ugly; I generally just eyeball it).

I'm a bit surprised reds blew out in that particular image though, what RAW converter did you use? Do you have the X3F file you could share?

Kendall Helmstetter Gelner said:

Everything else looks just fine to me, if I underexpose the rest won't that lead to other problems?

Click to expand...

You can recover more shadow detail than you might think and -0.7 is not really that far to recover from.

--
---> Kendall
http://InsideAperture.com
http://www.pbase.com/kgelner
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/user_home

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