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Olympus EP1 with Lumix 20mm Pancake - thoughts, experience?

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crashwins

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I'm looking at getting the EP1. I see the bonuses with the EP2, but there seem to be some good used bodies for sale of the EP1. I understand the AF is a bit slower than the GF1 (the other camera I was considering). I was wondering if anyone had any experience (or images! with an EP1/Lumix Pancake kit). I'm seeing a few around forums and the secondary market. Thanks for reading! Also, is the white EP1 available in the states? Wow, do I love the way that looks...
 
I just received my 20/1.7 today and mounted it on my E-PL1...I'm thinking Rollei 35 here in terms of camera/focal length combination, with a faster lens, more accurate finder and better handling with the VF2 also mounted.

The first files I am seeing at f1.7 are not disappointing...
 
Its a great combination if you don't care about the evf. I care about the evf a lot for shooting in really bright sun or with a long lens. But I go street shooting with the 17 or 20 quite often on my ep2 without the evf, even in bright sun. With that lens, you'd probably be fine without it. And you could always add the optical viewfinder designed for the 17 with it - it would show you a bit more than the camera would actually shoot, but it would work. Its a great lens too, btw. If you're thinking of adding other lenses later, particularly longer ones, I'd pretty strongly recommend spending a bit more for the epl1 or a few bits more for the ep2, though, because the evf is incredibly useful.

And the AF with that lens is not slower than the gf1 with that lens. Its pretty much identical IIRC. There's a bit more blackout time between shots so its not as good for really rapid fire shooting (not a concern for some, a concern for others), but to lock focus on something you're about to shoot is equally good.

-Ray
 
Apart from lens testing, the 20mm hasn't come off my EP1 since the lens was launched nearly a year ago ..... I DO have DSLRs as well whcih may influence matters but to say the EP1/20mm is an excellent rig is an understatment - the 20mm was MADE for a compact stabilized body

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A Problem is only the pessimistic way of looking at a challenge

 
I love this forum..People are so helpful! So, to reiterate a few points - the AF of the Pancake with the EP1 is about the same with the GF1? I assume the EP2 would be about the same bc I understand it's the same camera without a few bells n whistles. Is there any point in buying the EP2 since I'd want to just replace the lens anyway and there's no body-only option yet? Anyone know a reliable place to find a white EP1? Really like the looks of that one...Thanks!
 
With the E-P1's ibis and the 20mm's 1.7 f, it makes a great low light combo. If you have money to spend, the 17mm is also a nice lens, you can get it for under $200 used I believe.
Richard



 
It is a great combo. Focus is as fast on this combo. I couldn't stand the jpeg color and whitebalance of GF1, especially skin tone, and in darker setting. EPL1 strengths far outweight its weaknesses: LCD flickers/plastic feel/af assist light.
 
I got the E-P1 and the 20/1.7 as early as when they were available here in Germany, and to second what others already stated: It's a great combo! I have other lenses for the E-P1, but the 20/1.7 is attached to it most of the time, for several reasons.
  • It's small, and makes the camera somewhat pocketable.
  • It's fast - I can shoot it in difficult lighting situations and get great results.
  • The focal length is the ideal compromise: not too wide, not too narrow. Good for group shots, landscapes, portraits - just about anything. Not so much architecture, though, and not for macros either.
  • It's got lovely bokeh, and at f/1.7, subject seperation is possible at closer distances (e. g. with portraits). It's also got great colours and great contrast, and is incredibly sharp at any aperture setting.
  • Combined with the E-P1's in-body stabilization, it's the ideal low-light lens. Go down to 1/20th of a second, and you get sharp pictures as long as your subject doesn't move.
  • It looks great on the E-P1! :-)
What has also been said already is that it pairs nicely with the VF-1 that was made for the 17mm pancake, as its framelines are quite a bit narrower than the 17mm actual field-of-view. Use the inside of the framelines for your composition, and you're spot on. I love this for when the sun's too bright to see the display, for saving power or just for the fun and retro-ness of it.

Samples galore: http://www.efixmedia.de/photography/tag/201-7/

Anything else? Just ask!
 
Here's an example of the great subject seperation and beautiful bokeh you can get at f/1.7:

 
crashwins said:
I'm looking at getting the EP1. I see the bonuses with the EP2, but there seem to be some good used bodies for sale of the EP1. I understand the AF is a bit slower than the GF1
Click to expand...
Having an EVF is critical for me, so the EP1 would limit me if it were my only m4/3 body. It's hard to know until you try, but I have a very hard time seeing the screen well enough outdoors, both to frame/shoot and to chimp. I'm also Old School (and just plain old...) and like to shoot mostly with the camera at my eye.

My GF1 focuses everything just a little faster than my EP1. The difference is seldom significant, but it's always noticeable. Both bodies have current firmware. The Oly spends a little more time hunting, has to rack in/out further to read subject contrast.

Plenty of folks are very happy with the EP1, it's a great camera. If you want the capability to use an EVF, you'll have to look at the EP2 or EPL1. If you want the fastest possible focusing, you may need to look at Pany.

Best scenario is to try before you buy, or buy from someone with a good return policy. That said, none of this stuff is losing its value quickly these days, and you could probably flip what you bought for about the same price you paid within a couple weeks of purchase.
 
Great picture, silly question but was this handheld or tripod?

I have been looking at a ND filter for my 20mm as have heard it helps in strong sunlight and to slow down water etc and to be able to get it wide open.
toon12 said:
With the E-P1's ibis and the 20mm's 1.7 f, it makes a great low light combo. If you have money to spend, the 17mm is also a nice lens, you can get it for under $200 used I believe.
Richard



Click to expand...
 
handheld!!
kokopopsdave said:
I have been looking at a ND filter for my 20mm as have heard it helps in strong sunlight and to slow down water etc and to be able to get it wide open.
toon12 said:
With the E-P1's ibis and the 20mm's 1.7 f, it makes a great low light combo. If you have money to spend, the 17mm is also a nice lens, you can get it for under $200 used I believe.
Richard



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Richard
 
One small comment, I think with the IBIS it you can go slower on the shutter, the shot I posted was 1/6, not a fluke as I have shot a lot around that speed.
efix said:
I got the E-P1 and the 20/1.7 as early as when they were available here in Germany, and to second what others already stated: It's a great combo! I have other lenses for the E-P1, but the 20/1.7 is attached to it most of the time, for several reasons.
  • It's small, and makes the camera somewhat pocketable.
  • It's fast - I can shoot it in difficult lighting situations and get great results.
  • The focal length is the ideal compromise: not too wide, not too narrow. Good for group shots, landscapes, portraits - just about anything. Not so much architecture, though, and not for macros either.
  • It's got lovely bokeh, and at f/1.7, subject seperation is possible at closer distances (e. g. with portraits). It's also got great colours and great contrast, and is incredibly sharp at any aperture setting.
  • Combined with the E-P1's in-body stabilization, it's the ideal low-light lens. Go down to 1/20th of a second, and you get sharp pictures as long as your subject doesn't move.
  • It looks great on the E-P1! :-)
What has also been said already is that it pairs nicely with the VF-1 that was made for the 17mm pancake, as its framelines are quite a bit narrower than the 17mm actual field-of-view. Use the inside of the framelines for your composition, and you're spot on. I love this for when the sun's too bright to see the display, for saving power or just for the fun and retro-ness of it.

Samples galore: http://www.efixmedia.de/photography/tag/201-7/

Anything else? Just ask!
Click to expand...
--
Richard
 
Just so I'm clear, you're saying the focus of the GF1 and EP1/2 with the Lumix Pancake is the same (I assume because focus speed depends on the lens)? Is that correct? Thanks!
 
From what I've seen of other posts on this forum, any difference in focusing speed between the E-P1 and GF1 is negligible.

I have the E-P1 and think it's great, but be warned that the AF area of the E-P1 is quite large compared to the GF1. As a result, the focusing can hunt around more and be less precise. There is no way to decrease the AF area, although owners of the E-P2 and E-PL1 seem to have found a way to reduce it in a particular mode on their cameras.
 
I've posted photos in another thread if you want to look, but I've taken sharp pictures down to 0.6 second and a usable one at 1 full second. It's easy to get sharp pictures at 1/8 of a second if you're careful. IBIS with the 20mm is wonderful.
 
Wow! Thats awesome. I have had the e-pl1 and 20mm for about 3 days now and I love it, so great for playing around and having fun, thats what I am enjoying the most. I have mostly been shooting wide open and getting some really sharp pics, does it get better when you stop down a bit, whats its sweet spot?

I have the kit lens too but have only took one or two shots with it, I think it may stay that way :D
toon12 said:
kokopopsdave said:
I have been looking at a ND filter for my 20mm as have heard it helps in strong sunlight and to slow down water etc and to be able to get it wide open.
toon12 said:
With the E-P1's ibis and the 20mm's 1.7 f, it makes a great low light combo. If you have money to spend, the 17mm is also a nice lens, you can get it for under $200 used I believe.
Richard



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Richard
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