Shooting a nIght football game

Beautiful Colors! Beautiful Girl! I love that touch of blurred gold in the background too!

If I get any good ones, I'll post them! LOL

D.
My daughter is a dancer on the field at 1/2 time, so I plan to be
right there too. Camcorder in one hand and camera in the other!
hehe

D.
Now that's going to be a trick!

Don't have any nighttime shots handy, but here's one from a daytime
band competition. D30, Sigma 70-200 f/2.8



-- Lew
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
 
I shoot in raw mode with a 70-300 sigma 4.5-5.6 with a 550ex flash with some success. Action close by turns out decent. I push flash compensation up 2 stops. With the raw I can get 2 stops when converting and can usually get another 1-2 in PS. Granted they aren't magazine quality but not bad, have sold some:-) I too want a 2.8 lens but limited funds. I would like to see some of your results.
 
You should get great results with this. I don't use the D60 but I do shoot night football, etc...

I always shoot 1600 ASA, 1/250 shutter, F2.8 and no flash. On the rare ocasion I use flash I usually set it to -1.5 ev because I just want enough light to get under the helmet to the player's face.

Good luck and be sure to post some pics of the next game.

Tommy
Rudy
Without reading the rest of the posts......

The first comment I'd make is that the lens you have is too slow,
unfortunately you will probably need something in the f2.8 range
which could get expensive if my second guess is correct.

I would also guess that this is not under TV lighting so again the
slowness of your lens will not help you.

A monopod would help if you were using a heavy lens but won't
compensate for not being able to have a fast enough shutter speed
to freeze the action.

Sorry

Kevin
 
Thanks to everyone who responded to my post. I ended up using a step by step checklist from Carlos Salcedo, and it worked! I would like to post a couple but again, I'm new to this and I don't know how nor do I have a web site to post them on. Help please.

Rudy
I always shoot 1600 ASA, 1/250 shutter, F2.8 and no flash. On the
rare ocasion I use flash I usually set it to -1.5 ev because I just
want enough light to get under the helmet to the player's face.

Good luck and be sure to post some pics of the next game.

Tommy
Rudy
Without reading the rest of the posts......

The first comment I'd make is that the lens you have is too slow,
unfortunately you will probably need something in the f2.8 range
which could get expensive if my second guess is correct.

I would also guess that this is not under TV lighting so again the
slowness of your lens will not help you.

A monopod would help if you were using a heavy lens but won't
compensate for not being able to have a fast enough shutter speed
to freeze the action.

Sorry

Kevin
 
up a account at pbase.com or somewhere like it. Upload your photo there, then incert the link in a message.
Rudy
I always shoot 1600 ASA, 1/250 shutter, F2.8 and no flash. On the
rare ocasion I use flash I usually set it to -1.5 ev because I just
want enough light to get under the helmet to the player's face.

Good luck and be sure to post some pics of the next game.

Tommy
Rudy
Without reading the rest of the posts......

The first comment I'd make is that the lens you have is too slow,
unfortunately you will probably need something in the f2.8 range
which could get expensive if my second guess is correct.

I would also guess that this is not under TV lighting so again the
slowness of your lens will not help you.

A monopod would help if you were using a heavy lens but won't
compensate for not being able to have a fast enough shutter speed
to freeze the action.

Sorry

Kevin
 
Jim, I shoot the 70-200L 2.8 lens on my 1D and while I am not successful all the time, I do get some decent and useable shots out of it. Many have suggested if you are going to use a prime, that the Canon 300 2.8 is the way to go. I have thought about renting this lens just to see how it would work out. What I am really waiting on is the pricing of the Sigma 120-300 2.8 While I am not a Sigma fan, I do think that this lens will probably be my answer for shooting High School football and other sports. I was hoping Canon would pay attention here and produce something similar. Night shooting High School football is a very tough gig. There are several of us on this forum who are working very hard to find the right combination to do this successfully.

Jasoon
Unfortunately, the 100-400L IS is going to be too slow for night
football. If that was the main purpose for buying that lens, you
might want to return it and get something faster. F/2.8 is an
absolute minimum for shooting under the lights. I use a 70-200
F/2.8 with some success. I also use a 100-400 for daytime games.

I would love to try a Canon 200mm F/1.8 lens for nightime football,
but at $3500-$4000, I'll shoot at F/2.8. ;)

Another option is flash photography. First, check to see if flash
is allowed, them look into a "Project-A-Flash".

http://www.leppphoto.com/Project-A-Flash/index.html

Good luck.

JimD
--
Jason Stoller [email protected]

We are just Beta Testers who pay the Camera Companies to test their new products!
 
Pretty tough even at 1600 with HS stadium lights. My shutters were hovering around 1/160-1/250. 200mm is not enough zoom either. The 1D had no focus problems, though.
Jasoon
Unfortunately, the 100-400L IS is going to be too slow for night
football. If that was the main purpose for buying that lens, you
might want to return it and get something faster. F/2.8 is an
absolute minimum for shooting under the lights. I use a 70-200
F/2.8 with some success. I also use a 100-400 for daytime games.

I would love to try a Canon 200mm F/1.8 lens for nightime football,
but at $3500-$4000, I'll shoot at F/2.8. ;)

Another option is flash photography. First, check to see if flash
is allowed, them look into a "Project-A-Flash".

http://www.leppphoto.com/Project-A-Flash/index.html

Good luck.

JimD
--
Jason Stoller [email protected]
We are just Beta Testers who pay the Camera Companies to test their
new products!
--
Photos, tips and tests at:
http://www.geocities.com/glowluzid
 
Remember, I'm very new to all this and although I'm learning more everyday, (mostly from this forum) I am at this point just following instructions from the good people on this forum. So, if some of this doesn't sound right, My appologies to Carlos. I'm sure I just translated it incorrectly.

Here's what he told me:
1. Set your camera to AV mode.

2. Set the lens to 2.8 and point the lens to a nice clean grass portion of the field.

3. If you reading is 1/125th @ 2.8 @ ISO 800 then you are going to be shooting one stop over that which is about 1/250th.
4. Set your camera to M mode (manual)
5. Set your shutter to 1/200th
6. Set your flash at +1 exposure level.

That's how I got the shots from last night. I hope it helps.

Rudy
 
Well, ok please don't laugh me out of here with my Sony DSC F707 + B-300 Teleconverter. =( I know this is a Canon SLR Talk forum.

I have a Canon SLR too with the big lenses but I wanted to try digital. I think my next purchase is going to be a Canon Digital. =/

I had an expernal flash mounted on the Sony. It appears as though I am the only one that got the "red eye" syndrome here.

I shot at ISO 200 (guess was too low) Shutter speed 125 (too low?) and used a flash. My pictures are way too dark (I guess due to the above).

I do have Adobe Photoshop 7.0 and used it to make these a bit better (believe it or not) without doing the red eye correction.





So I guess next time I need to do ISO 400 (that's the highest this camera does) and Shutter speed of 200.

Any other helpful comments are welcomed. (No pot shots please) hehe.

DeeDee G.
Thank you to everyone. I'll try it at the Homecoming game this
Friday night.

DeeDee G.
Rudy
Without reading the rest of the posts......

The first comment I'd make is that the lens you have is too slow,
unfortunately you will probably need something in the f2.8 range
which could get expensive if my second guess is correct.

I would also guess that this is not under TV lighting so again the
slowness of your lens will not help you.

A monopod would help if you were using a heavy lens but won't
compensate for not being able to have a fast enough shutter speed
to freeze the action.

Sorry

Kevin
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
 

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