P10 Unit Stuff

  • Thread starter Thread starter cgarrard
  • Start date Start date
Unless I've missed something in the manual somewhere I've come to the same conclusion as well.

The aperture goes up to f/15.6 in 300mm, which to me is rather pointless other than the fact that it helps in bright light circumstances, but the images get a bit soft as a result of diffraction.

Keep this in mind though (and I promise too as well), with such a small sensor, having a greater aperture range doesn't really give you much control over DOF. This is important to remember here.

The DOF is already great at the minimum aperture of f/3.5 at wide angle. If you want to control your dof more, you'll need not to think about using a compact in this regard.

Even the S10 module doesn't give you much control over DOF even with the additional aperture steps.

I find that if I want more oof backgrounds, I just use a longer focal length and focus closer to the subject.

You can still control your DOF a bit in this way, you just have to be willing to compromise a bit and try different things.

Otherwise, it's a crack little unit for such a small sensor. I did some comparisons to the S10 (which I happen to like quite a bit) unit and there's not too much difference in the way noise is handled overall. The S10 unit does have an advantage, but it's not as great as I thought it might be.

C
--
http://www.CarlGarrardPhotography.com
http://www.AlphaMountWorld.com
 
Thanks for posting this Carl, it all seems very encouraging. My initial observation of the images was that there was noticeable softness and CA towards the corners at 28mm fully open. Then I slapped myself and remembered its a $300 compact unit. In reality it looks like it punches above its weight.

Do you know if the sharpness and CA are better when stopped down?

Regards,
-Najinsky
 
Glad too.

No, I don't believe that sharpness increases past bast aperture, and the aperture double in value of adjustment each step too.

At 28mm you have f/3.5 and f/7 to choose from only, and at 300mm you have f/5.6, f/7.7, f/15.4.

F7 is too high for an aperture setting for a sensor this small i.e. sharpness anyways. Good to have it to bring down incoming light though.

C
--
http://www.CarlGarrardPhotography.com
http://www.AlphaMountWorld.com
 
Glad too.

No, I don't believe that sharpness increases past bast aperture, and the aperture double in value of adjustment each step too.

At 28mm you have f/3.5 and f/7 to choose from only, and at 300mm you have f/5.6, f/7.7, f/15.4.

F7 is too high for an aperture setting for a sensor this small i.e. sharpness anyways. Good to have it to bring down incoming light though.

C
--
http://www.CarlGarrardPhotography.com
http://www.AlphaMountWorld.com
I guess I don't understand or maybe this is just the P10 as my S10 when using AP I have many F stops to choose from.....
 
Thanks for sharing, Carl. This is an interesting review of a hugely appealing camera/module. I don't think there's anything else that offers similar size/functionality/build combination - at any price. I think it's a steal for the price.

Is there any chance you could upload a RAW and JPEG files of a highly detailed scene shot at base ISO at optimum aperture (probably wide open in this case)? I'm curious to see how well the GXR/P10 could suit the type of photography I'm into.

Prog.
--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/oren_b
 
hi i have 2 questions:

1) the camera was sent to you for review by Ricoh or its a retail definitive product already on the market?

2) what about iso 100-200? can you have clean (no artifact-painted) images at least at 100-200 iso? (for what i see 200 is base iso)

thanx
--
angel
 
Glad too.

No, I don't believe that sharpness increases past bast aperture, and the aperture double in value of adjustment each step too.

At 28mm you have f/3.5 and f/7 to choose from only, and at 300mm you have f/5.6, f/7.7, f/15.4.

F7 is too high for an aperture setting for a sensor this small i.e. sharpness anyways. Good to have it to bring down incoming light though.

C
--
http://www.CarlGarrardPhotography.com
http://www.AlphaMountWorld.com
I guess I don't understand or maybe this is just the P10 as my S10 when using AP I have many F stops to choose from.....
Never mind, now I get it, I read up a bit...sorry
 
length, then doesn't that seriously limit the functionality of shutter priority?

You'd have only two EVs for a correct exposure for each shutter speed you choose.
Am I missing something?
 
Thanks for your effort Carl! I have to say, I'm impressed! JPEGs looks ugly over ISO200. However, with some postprocessing in good RAW editor, one can get very usable results from ISO400, 800 or even 1600! Of course, nothing that will match the A12 or even GRDIII. But definitely good for medium large prints!

The only thing that concerns me is slight softness of your samples. Could it be that they are slightly out of focus? Did you turn the image stabilization OFF while taking them? But it could be that the CX zoom lens is simply incapable to deliver as high resolution as S10 or GRD lens?

If you don't mind, here are two quick examples of P10 DNG processing in Silkypix Pro:









You can get the full resolution files here:
http://forums.dpreview.com/galleries/8866142089/albums/gxr-p10-iso-test

I only reduced the color noise using the SPP "False Color" removal tool and "Fine Color Controller" tunning, which helps with reducing the blotches of color noise at a slight cost of overall reduced colors. But I think it's small price for visibly less color noise? ;)

--
Ricoh Film & Digital Forum
http://www.ricohforum.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7597032@N05/
 
...of converting two of your DNGs in Lightroom 3 (Beta 2). Screenshot of 100% comparison crops below - ISO100 vs ISO800. Same processing parameters for both DNGs except applied slight luminance noise reduction to the ISO800 file.

Some yellow and purple blotching in the high ISO (possibly easy to reduce?), but the detail preserved is astonishing - this ISO800 afterall! My credit card is beginning to sweat...

ISO 100 (left) and ISO 800 (right):




http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_goold/
 
Hehe you beat me about few minutes DKG! I was about to post exactly the same findings. LR3 beta is absolutely wonderful performer when it comes to noise reduction and extracting details from the P10 DNG files! Adobe clearly knows best how to extract best from their own format?

Here are my LR3 conversion attempts. Only touch or luminance noise reduction in ISO400 and above. ISO100-200 are only color noise reduced.

























--
Ricoh Film & Digital Forum
http://www.ricohforum.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7597032@N05/
 
Glad you agree about about LR3. Looks like my credit card is going to take two big hits next month from both Ricoh and Adobe.

Thanks for your more scientific comparisons, Pavel - I just got overexcited when I saw ISO800.

Best
David


http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_goold/
 

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