Sekonic vs Minolta IV F meter

nfll · Oct 1, 2002

TO those in the know

Am NuB to digital/Photography and have decided after much reading here and photo attempts that a light meter is in order. Have narrowed my choice(s) to the Sekonic L358 vs Minolta IV F. Which meter IYO is the superior meter re: features, usability, etc. I am an amatuer but want/need to improve my output, something that as I grow? I can still use long term without the need to upgrade the meter.

YHS

Paul Ferrara · Oct 1, 2002

The Sekonic has more features, while the Minolta is probably more popular. I bought a IVf and it's a top notch meter but I later bought a Sekonic so I could use their PocketWizard module. Both are accurate and consistent.

Paul
http://www.paulsportraits.com

Norman LaPearle 1 said:
TO those in the know

Am NuB to digital/Photography and have decided after much reading
here and photo attempts that a light meter is in order. Have
narrowed my choice(s) to the Sekonic L358 vs Minolta IV F. Which
meter IYO is the superior meter re: features, usability, etc. I am
an amatuer but want/need to improve my output, something that as I
grow? I can still use long term without the need to upgrade the
meter.

YHS

Swamp Duck · Oct 4, 2002

I also opted to go with the Sekonic 358 because of the ability to talk to the Poket Wizrds for remote functionality. Also it was on sale, and they had a promo where you could buy the Pocket Wizard transmitter for $25

Paul Ferrara said:
Paul
http://www.paulsportraits.com

Norman LaPearle 1 said:

TO those in the know

Am NuB to digital/Photography and have decided after much reading
here and photo attempts that a light meter is in order. Have
narrowed my choice(s) to the Sekonic L358 vs Minolta IV F. Which
meter IYO is the superior meter re: features, usability, etc. I am
an amatuer but want/need to improve my output, something that as I
grow? I can still use long term without the need to upgrade the
meter.

YHS

Click to expand...

--

ron mcmillan · Oct 4, 2002

Even as an enthusiastic amateur, you simply don't need to go as high-end as the Minolta IV or similar.

To do so would be like an enthusiastic amateur thinking he had to have the latest $9000 digital slr and a slew of top-dollar lenses.

Minolta, Sekonic, and other makers produce excellent meters that are nowhere near so expensive as their professional models -- and all of them provide the functions that are crucial to decent photography: accurate readings of (1) ambient, and (2) flash lighting

I have done professional commercial photography lighting for a long time, and the 'features' other than the above are basically useless -- as they are made for people who don't understand what's happening in their picture. If you learn to understand light, all you need to know is how strong the light is in each situation.

And to do that, all you need is something as simple and dependable as the Sekonic L-308. See the following user reviews:

http://www.photographyreview.com/Light,Meters/Sekonic,L-718,Digi,Master,Light,Meter/PRD_84285_3115crx.aspx

ron

Paul Ferrara · Oct 4, 2002

The difference in price between the 308 and 358 is a whopping $60. The difference between a D60 and a $9000 DSLR is...$7000.

Paul
http://www.paulsportraits.com

ron mcmillan said:
Even as an enthusiastic amateur, you simply don't need to go as
high-end as the Minolta IV or similar.

To do so would be like an enthusiastic amateur thinking he had to
have the latest $9000 digital slr and a slew of top-dollar lenses.

Minolta, Sekonic, and other makers produce excellent meters that
are nowhere near so expensive as their professional models -- and
all of them provide the functions that are crucial to decent
photography: accurate readings of (1) ambient, and (2) flash
lighting

I have done professional commercial photography lighting for a long
time, and the 'features' other than the above are basically useless
-- as they are made for people who don't understand what's
happening in their picture. If you learn to understand light, all
you need to know is how strong the light is in each situation.

And to do that, all you need is something as simple and dependable
as the Sekonic L-308. See the following user reviews:

http://www.photographyreview.com/Light,Meters/Sekonic,L-718,Digi,Master,Light,Meter/PRD_84285_3115crx.aspx

ron

ron mcmillan · Oct 5, 2002

Oops, you got me there, Paul.

But I still stand by the argument that the vast majority of the bells and whistles on the high-end meters are just there for show, and not worth any extra money.

ron

Paul Ferrara said:
The difference in price between the 308 and 358 is a whopping $60.
The difference between a D60 and a $9000 DSLR is...$7000.

richard wong80938 · Oct 5, 2002

I find myself using my light meter less and less when shooting digital. The histogram tells a lot. The only time I still use my Minolta is when I have to shoot film. Ron has a point. No fancy light meter is going to help you unless you understand light.

Paul, if you are already shooting with the D60, it has a built in light meter and I'd rather spend the money on lenses.

Paul Ferrara · Oct 5, 2002

The 358 isn't a "high-end" meter. But it does have some important features that the 308 doesn't have. The dome retracts so you can use it normally or as a "flat disk." The head swivels. It has a much larger dome. It will measure flash-only, or flash+ambient. It will do averaging and can record multiple pops. It will also accept a PocketWizard module so you can trigger your lights from the meter. That's a lot of extras for $60.

Paul
http://www.paulsportraits.com

ron mcmillan said:
But I still stand by the argument that the vast majority of the
bells and whistles on the high-end meters are just there for show,
and not worth any extra money.

ron

Paul Ferrara said:

The difference in price between the 308 and 358 is a whopping $60.
The difference between a D60 and a $9000 DSLR is...$7000.

Click to expand...

padeye99656 · Oct 5, 2002

We've had this discussion before. A historgram is useful and a stopgap but not a substitute for a meter. The only reason I haven't already gotten a Sekonic L358 is that I already have a flash meter but it's still on my "to get" list.

richard wong said:
I find myself using my light meter less and less when shooting
digital. The histogram tells a lot. The only time I still use my
Minolta is when I have to shoot film. Ron has a point. No fancy
light meter is going to help you unless you understand light.
Paul, if you are already shooting with the D60, it has a built in
light meter and I'd rather spend the money on lenses.

Paul Ferrara · Oct 5, 2002

If you understood light, you wouldn't be relying on a histogram for exposure. The discussion is about INCIDENT meters. The D60 has a built-in REFLECTED meter. And the histogram tells you only about the overall scene and is only meaningful if it's an average scene at that. It tells you nothing about the SUBJECT's exposure. Where's the scale to tell you that your SUBJECT is underexposed by a third of a stop?

Finally, if you've ever seen the histogram for a subject that was recorded against a very dark or very light background, you wouldn't have made such a silly statement in the first place.

Paul
http://www.paulsportraits.com

richard wong said:
I find myself using my light meter less and less when shooting
digital. The histogram tells a lot. The only time I still use my
Minolta is when I have to shoot film. Ron has a point. No fancy
light meter is going to help you unless you understand light.
Paul, if you are already shooting with the D60, it has a built in
light meter and I'd rather spend the money on lenses.

Simon-Ph · Oct 5, 2002

I think it is the best value for the price. I've heard many people debate that digital camera with histogram is enough. I don't agree because there are situations when time is demanding. You or the client just don't have time for you to test lighting 10 times before take a photo. Sometimes, it will put your professionalism at risk.

--
Simon-Ph

Steven Lott · Oct 5, 2002

I disagree with Mr Wong and agree more with Rich Mc

First people starting out need to know what amount of light each light is adding to the scene, a histogram is a great tool. But it will not tell you how much power is falling into the face of your subject from your Main light
and how much power your Fill lights are providing.

Starting out THESE measurements are more important than anything else

seasoned pro's learn to see the light and can even since when the fill is too hot as compared to the Main light and Can rely on a Histogram as the Safety check.

The reason I say I agree more with Rich is those Bells and Whistles while only costing another $60
Cost a lot as far as needing to figure out how to use the darn thing

Beginner's are more apt to grasp use of a meter that does not have all the extra bells and whistles that just confuse them.

Students need a firm understanding of what Main and Fill light is
before being told just use the Histogram.

http://www.lottsphoto.com/Exposure&LightingTechnique.htm

--
Steven Lott
http://www.LottsPhoto.com/ProTips.htm

Rinus Borgsteede · Oct 5, 2002

I use the Minolta Autometer IVf and am very happy with it but it does not measure multiple exposure bursts. It is for that reason that I keep the Flashmeter III around. I would rather have a Sekonic L-600 if I had to upgrade because the spot meter is what I do not have. It is also lit and too many times I cannot see the readings while standing in darker areas. Most of my friends have the Sekonics but purely because of price. They all seem to be much the same. The remote module may come in handy but it is a novelty for most people.
Rinus of Calgary

TonyK_in_Texas · Oct 6, 2002

I have to second this. I just recently purchased this light meter and for my flash work, it has made life so much easier and has improved my photography.

It has all of the basic features needed. Can be used with flash or available light (ambient) and can even fire strobes/flash units.

Again, this link shows how much it can help.

My primary source read f4. My fill read f2.8 (less than a 2 to 1 ratio).

If I were using the scale on the flash, I would have set my system to f5.6. As it was, I was on the money for the exposure. And as long as I did not change my lighting around, it stayd the same.

I am very pleased with my $200 USD purchase and can highly recommend the 308B.

Take care,

ron mcmillan said:
...
And to do that, all you need is something as simple and dependable
as the Sekonic L-308. See the following user reviews:
...

ron

--
TonyK

Bimthecat · Oct 6, 2002

The most important feature for an flash meter is the "analyze" feature.

This allows, with one reading, to determine:

1st: The correct exposure (obviously)
2nd: What is the contribution of the flash, AND what is the contribution
of the ambient light. (to the total correct exposure)

Rememeber: Flash is F stop only, and ambient is BOTH Fstop and shutter speed.
Photography is painting with light.
Adjusting these parameters is a required tool for top results.
Understanding, and utilizing, this "analyze" feature is a GIANT advantage.
With studio strobes outdoors (catalog shoots/portraits) it is fantastic.

The Minotla 4 F does not analyze, avoid it.
The Minolta 4 does analyze (no longer made, a great meter)
The Minolta 5 does analyze.
If a Seknoic model does not analyze, don't buy it.

Trust me, it's worth repeating.....
Understanding, and using, this "analyze" feature is a GIANT advantage.

Rinus Borgsteede · Oct 6, 2002

Yes, the analize function is a good tool but I have no problems analizing with two (or more) separate readings. One for available light and one for the flash power. The meter would make it a lot faster and easier to see on the exposure display. It does not make the meter better, simply more functional. In my 40 years of photography, I have never seen the need but I never saw the need for auto focus either. A great invention too.
Rinus of Calgary

Paul Ferrara · Oct 6, 2002

Good point. A handy feature for mixing flash and ambient outdoors. The 358 does have it.

Paul
http://www.paulsportraits.com

Bimthecat said:
The most important feature for an flash meter is the "analyze"
feature.

This allows, with one reading, to determine:

1st: The correct exposure (obviously)
2nd: What is the contribution of the flash, AND what is the
contribution
of the ambient light. (to the total correct exposure)

Rememeber: Flash is F stop only, and ambient is BOTH Fstop and
shutter speed.
Photography is painting with light.
Adjusting these parameters is a required tool for top results.
Understanding, and utilizing, this "analyze" feature is a GIANT
advantage.
With studio strobes outdoors (catalog shoots/portraits) it is
fantastic.

The Minotla 4 F does not analyze, avoid it.
The Minolta 4 does analyze (no longer made, a great meter)
The Minolta 5 does analyze.
If a Seknoic model does not analyze, don't buy it.

Trust me, it's worth repeating.....
Understanding, and using, this "analyze" feature is a GIANT advantage.

Bimthecat · Oct 6, 2002

Hello Rinus of Calgary,
You missed my point.
Having 2 meters, one for ambient and one for flash is
NOT the same.

With a flash meter, which "analyzes", you take just ONE reading.
Then, on the meter, you can vary the shutter speed (up or down)
and you observe:
the "marker" for Flash part of the total exposure, and the
the "marker" for Ambient part of the total exposure,
slide up and down a linear scale.
Depicting their relationship to each other.
Is the Flash dominant ?...Is the Ambient dominant?...and by how much.
Are they contributing the same ?....And so forth.

This allows you to taylor 'the look' you desire in a fast and repeatable way.
2 seperate meters Kannot do this.
Certainally not as well, nor as fast, or as repeatable.

Rinus Borgsteede · Oct 6, 2002

No, I did not miss the point, I do not need it but like the possibilities all the same. My education and experience does what your meter does. Your meter was made because people like me thought it would help not having to do polaroids or calculations all the time to see what you are going to get. I have been eying those meters but see no real advantage in my kind of shooting. The editorial nature of some of my photography is the only real place where I see the advantage but now that I shoot digital as well, I have a real good ratio preview on the back of my camera.
Either way I see your point.
Rinus of Calgary

Jack A. Zucker · Oct 6, 2002

Ron,

The 308B is not listed in their latest catalog. I believe they may have discontined it.

Sekonic vs Minolta IV F meter

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