7D swans in flight, exposure and noise issues

Chris R-UK

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I would like some advice on how to photograph birds such as swans with white plumage. I am having problems getting the right exposure and controlling noise.

I have been trying to improve my BIF shots for about two years now, firstly with a 20D and since September with a 7D. I have adopted the practice of using manual exposure, taking an exposure reading from a patch of grass, adjusting it to get the correct exposure for the birds and checking against the grass at frequent intervals. I find that this gives good results when the birds are sometimes against the sky and sometimes against the ground.

One of my favourite locations is a wetlands sanctuary at Slimbridge in the UK near where I live. Of particular interest are the 200-300 Bewick Swans that spend the winter there before migrating back to northern Russia. In two recent visits the Bewick swans were flying around in small flocks 150-300 yards away giving opportunities for shots such as this one (uncropped):





(All shots processed in Lightroom 2.6 with no adjustments except cropping. This shot and one other were taken as JPEGs with standard NR. All the others were raw.)

This was taken in quite good light and I had previously set the exposure for the many ducks and geese that were also flying around. The result was that the white plumage was overexposed with almost all of the detail lost. Here is a 100% crop:





I then started adjusting the exposure for the swans. Taking spot readings from the plumage of the ducks and swans close by on the ground, I found that I needed to underexpose by 1 stop in overcast conditions and 1.5-2 stops in sunlight. Here are two 100% crops of swans on a subsequent visit exposed in this way to show plumage and shot as raw (so no NR):









As you can see, there is now some detail in the plumage but a lot of visible noise. Brightening up the backgrounds to a more accetable level only makes the noise worse.

Finally here is a shot of a mute swan taken on the same day but much closer to the camera and at a lower ISO in slightly better light (uncropped):
This has what I consider to be acceptable plumage detail.





I would like any advice on how to handle these kind of shots, especially on cloudy days when I need ISO 400. Do I accept less plumage details in return for less noise, do I shoot for the plumage detail and use noise reduction software or do I only shoot on bright days - not easy in a British winter!

Thanks for any feedback.
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Chris R
 
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Chris R
 
Keep track of the "Exposure for BIF" thread running right now too for some good info. I'd suggest experimenting with some different metering modes.

I have a tendency to use Av mode most of the time and use Partial metering. I get fairly good success with this. I check the exposure compensation fairly often between shots to make sure I'm not over or under compensating. You will probably get mostly soft images at ranges over 150 meters with that lens and the more you blow it up, the more noise you will see.
 
I'm close to Slimbridge too and having recently bought a 100-400 for my 7D I'm looking forward to trying my eye at similar shots. So I'm marking your post so I can come back. :)

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|\ http://www.rosher.net |\
 
The intesity of the sun is lower, and the contrast between the swans and bg will be less, allowing for more balanced exposure.

Michael Gehrisch
http://www.pbase.com/kingfisher
Thanks Michael.

I will invest in some cold weather clothing for early mornings next winter - but you probably have plenty of that for winter photography in Sweden!
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Chris R
 
Keep track of the "Exposure for BIF" thread running right now too for some good info. I'd suggest experimenting with some different metering modes.
I have already read that thread and contributed to it.
I have a tendency to use Av mode most of the time and use Partial metering. I get fairly good success with this. I check the exposure compensation fairly often between shots to make sure I'm not over or under compensating.
I will re-read the other thread and will experiment with different methods next time. How do you handle things if the bird flies across different backgrounds, or does the 7D's exposure lock during continuous shooting in AI Servo mode?
You will probably get mostly soft images at ranges over 150 meters with that lens and the more you blow it up, the more noise you will see.
I am aware of the limitation of the lens, but I do not quite understand the noise problem. I have another shot of ducks taken at the same location several months earlier and at ISO 800 and it has almost no visible noise at all when viewed on the screen at full resolution. I think that the noise in my swan shots has to be related to the deliberate underexposure.
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Chris R
 
Mark, send me an e-mail if you want to discuss anything.

I expect that the Bewick swans have all gone by now. I went in late February and again at the beginning of March and most of the migratory birds had gone by the second visit. The first visit was great, though - lots of bird action.

The captive birds section of Slimbridge is a bit of a mess at the moment because they are changing the water flow and drainage.
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Chris R
 
Great feather detail.

How did you know how much to adjust the exposure?
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Chris R
 
If the light is consistent (full sun, veiled sun or full overcast) you might find it easier to shoot in manual especially for white birds. If the sun is full I don't shoot unless the sun angle is low and I can get between the sun and subject to shoot it in full light. When using manual just set the exposure for the white bird because you don't care about the background. A little trial and error will get you in the right range with your histogram mostly piled up to the right without clipping but in full early or late sun ISO 200 at f5.6 and 1/2000th is in the ball park with a 1/3rd stop EC either way. I try to stay with ISO 200 and use HTP to aid in preserving highlight detail especially for white birds. If I need to shoot higher I'll skip 250 and 320 and use 400. I read a pretty interesting in depth analysis of the 7D where it demonstrated how ISO 400 has better DR than 320 due to the way the camera devises the intermediate ISO's.

Bob
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http://www.pbase.com/rwbaron
 
Getting swans in flight at this time of the year in the UK is a real pain for the reasons you describe Chris.

I've been experimenting with using spot exposure to get the swan details right then using the luminance contols in LR2.6 to bring up the background

What I do is to set the colour to "Daylight" the use the blue channel control to boost the luminance. From what I am seeing so far this seems to minimise the noise levels quite a bit.

If I want to go further I will put it into PSP12 and select the sky, then apply selective Noiseware noise reduction (you can do this in PSP CS too)

Have a play and see if this helps you at all

(Roll on Summer with some good light! :) )
 
If the light is consistent (full sun, veiled sun or full overcast) you might find it easier to shoot in manual especially for white birds.

When using manual just set the exposure for the white bird because you don't care about the background. >
Bob
Exactly. Manual exposure mode eliminates the variable of a changing background.

It's also better if you happen to be tracking the bird and your focus point slips off the bird and onto either a darker or lighter background, which would throw off the exposure in Av or Tv mode. In manual mode, if you need to change the exposure, just turn the back dial with your thumb without taking your eye off the target.
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I'm close to Slimbridge too and having recently bought a 100-400 for my 7D I'm looking forward to trying my eye at similar shots. So I'm marking your post so I can come back. :)
I went to Slimbridge last week (it's not near where I live but I was in Bristol visting friends and had never been before) and used my 7D and 100-400. I've got some great shots with the 100-400, especially now that I've done the micro-adjustment on it (needed +7). It's a great combination.
 
Yes. I shoot in Adobe RGB and process in LR in Adobe RGB.

Do you think that I shouldn't be?
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Chris R
 
Getting swans in flight at this time of the year in the UK is a real pain for the reasons you describe Chris.

I've been experimenting with using spot exposure to get the swan details right then using the luminance contols in LR2.6 to bring up the background

What I do is to set the colour to "Daylight" the use the blue channel control to boost the luminance. From what I am seeing so far this seems to minimise the noise levels quite a bit.
Thanks, Brian. That works well.

I am also waiting to see how much better the NR is in LR3 - I have tried out the Beta version.
If I want to go further I will put it into PSP12 and select the sky, then apply selective Noiseware noise reduction (you can do this in PSP CS too)

Have a play and see if this helps you at all

(Roll on Summer with some good light! :) )
Unfortunately the Bewick swans will have disappeared by then!
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Chris R
 
Remember that if you use spot metering and expose on something white, the camera will under expose. When you under expose you get a lot more noise.
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