Mithandir
Senior Member
On a whim, my wife and I decided to drive to Switzerland for the long holiday weekend (national day in Belgium to celebrate how about 180 years ago we tossed the Dutch out. If you know a better reason to celebrate, I'd like to hear it). So we threw the tent in the car and set out to a photographer's paradise .. a very tricky paradise.
During this trip I learned a lot so I figured I'd share some of my observations with people here. Feel free to amend or contradict me in replies. I am, if anything, just a newbie.
Of course Switzerland is a great country to test the strengths of the E-system: long hikes with a light system, yeah! Unfortunately, being me I brought all my gear, including the sigma 135-400mm (which I used) and the ZD50+EX25 (which I didn't) and even my flash, monopod and gorillapod. Total weight: over 6 kg. Ah well, I'm young
These observations are probably also valid for any other lush, mountainous, castle-and-lake-studded region. Check your backyard for your own!
1. Exposure
1.1 ISO and shutter speed
Switzerland in summer is bright. Very bright. Here in Belgium I don't often go much lower than ISO 400, but in Switzerland even ISO 100 was too sensitive giving me small apertures and very fast shutter speeds and a rather large error margin (your shutter isn't 100% accurate. An error of 0.0001s is a lot more significant at 1/1000 than at 1/100).
A good ND filter is your friend here, but sadly I didn't have one. Normally I'd use my polariser to compensate, but I noticed a disturbing blue colour cast with it which I hadn't noticed before. It's a pretty new filter so maybe that's why, or it could be the light here is simply different.
1.2 Exposure Bias
I'm lazy so I go for program mode most of the time. Whether you use P, A or S (but not M, obviously) on your E-510, you'll want to underexpose here. Yes, even if you don't much do that normally. Switzerland is a very contrast-rich land and you have snow-tipped mountains competing with blue skies and bright grass. Your E-510 takes one look at that and decides the sky should be as white as the snow.
I've generally used -0.3 and -0.7 eV but have gone down to 1.0 and -1.3 where needed. You risk getting quite dark pictures like this, but the E-510 clips highlights (snow, sky) faster than shadows so this problem is easier to fix later.
This gets worse as it gets duskier:
- - - Picture 1: Exp. Bias: -1.0
1.2 Alternate Metering Options
Tricky lighting is a good place to start thinking out of the box, how about:
1.3 Know your lens
That bit about -0.3 to -1.3 eV? Yeah, that was for the 14-54mm II. I've found that with my 9-18mm I could get away with 0.0 to -0.3 eV most of the time. I think it may be due to this lens giving slightly less contrast. Keep in mind that a setting that works for one lens may not work for the next one.
1.4 the problem with fill-in flash
The need to underexpose to save your background may well leave your foreground too dark. You may think to solve this by using a fill-in flash, but that won't work because the max flash sync-speed is 1/180 and there's simply too much light for that (especially at negative exposure comp). Take the following image, taken at ISO 100, F/9.0, -0.7 and 1/320. To get down to 1/180 and, say, -1.0 or 1.3 I'd have to use an aperture of around F/20 and we all know four thirds doesn't like that. Instead I opted to have the sky wash out a bit and save the flowers.
--
Mithandir,
Eternal Amateur
http://www.wizardtrails.com/
During this trip I learned a lot so I figured I'd share some of my observations with people here. Feel free to amend or contradict me in replies. I am, if anything, just a newbie.
Of course Switzerland is a great country to test the strengths of the E-system: long hikes with a light system, yeah! Unfortunately, being me I brought all my gear, including the sigma 135-400mm (which I used) and the ZD50+EX25 (which I didn't) and even my flash, monopod and gorillapod. Total weight: over 6 kg. Ah well, I'm young
These observations are probably also valid for any other lush, mountainous, castle-and-lake-studded region. Check your backyard for your own!
1. Exposure
1.1 ISO and shutter speed
Switzerland in summer is bright. Very bright. Here in Belgium I don't often go much lower than ISO 400, but in Switzerland even ISO 100 was too sensitive giving me small apertures and very fast shutter speeds and a rather large error margin (your shutter isn't 100% accurate. An error of 0.0001s is a lot more significant at 1/1000 than at 1/100).
A good ND filter is your friend here, but sadly I didn't have one. Normally I'd use my polariser to compensate, but I noticed a disturbing blue colour cast with it which I hadn't noticed before. It's a pretty new filter so maybe that's why, or it could be the light here is simply different.
1.2 Exposure Bias
I'm lazy so I go for program mode most of the time. Whether you use P, A or S (but not M, obviously) on your E-510, you'll want to underexpose here. Yes, even if you don't much do that normally. Switzerland is a very contrast-rich land and you have snow-tipped mountains competing with blue skies and bright grass. Your E-510 takes one look at that and decides the sky should be as white as the snow.
I've generally used -0.3 and -0.7 eV but have gone down to 1.0 and -1.3 where needed. You risk getting quite dark pictures like this, but the E-510 clips highlights (snow, sky) faster than shadows so this problem is easier to fix later.
This gets worse as it gets duskier:
- - - Picture 1: Exp. Bias: -1.0
1.2 Alternate Metering Options
Tricky lighting is a good place to start thinking out of the box, how about:
- Spot-Highlight metering on the snow and -0.3 eV
- Spot midtone metering on the blue sky/gray rock
- Spot shadow metering on the foreground and +0.3 eV
1.3 Know your lens
That bit about -0.3 to -1.3 eV? Yeah, that was for the 14-54mm II. I've found that with my 9-18mm I could get away with 0.0 to -0.3 eV most of the time. I think it may be due to this lens giving slightly less contrast. Keep in mind that a setting that works for one lens may not work for the next one.
1.4 the problem with fill-in flash
The need to underexpose to save your background may well leave your foreground too dark. You may think to solve this by using a fill-in flash, but that won't work because the max flash sync-speed is 1/180 and there's simply too much light for that (especially at negative exposure comp). Take the following image, taken at ISO 100, F/9.0, -0.7 and 1/320. To get down to 1/180 and, say, -1.0 or 1.3 I'd have to use an aperture of around F/20 and we all know four thirds doesn't like that. Instead I opted to have the sky wash out a bit and save the flowers.
--
Mithandir,
Eternal Amateur
http://www.wizardtrails.com/