Getting my prints to look like my screen

David Martin · Aug 6, 2002

Gordon Chau said:
Dave

I use a similar set-up but on the A4 Epson 895 (890 in North
America) priting via PS7, same engine as your 1290.

If you think getting the D7's colour right is difficult, this very
subject on matching monitor and print is doubly difficult.

I have tried most of the methods discussed in this thread; there
are really two basic types of routine usually taught in the
standard tytorials which we all get referred to. One route is to
use downloaded Epson paper-specific profiles as print profiles to
go with 'no colour management' in the printer section. Another is
to choose 'printer colour management' to go with advance/ICM in the
printer section. But I have to admit that after spending lots and
lots and lots of money on buying ink and paper, following the
recommended tutorials to the last details, I get darker images than
I like.

Try one print with this work flow:

I would think getting a Spyder to calibrate makes sense but I never
got to buy one just fearing the results would be similar even if I
had bought one. I still just do monitor calibration with the
AdobeGamma program which comes loaded with Photoshop to my best
ability. But you should at least do this if you are skipping
hardward calibration tools like me.

Load your D7 camera JPEG into PS7 and assign it the new direct
profile, namely the Minolta Dimage 7 profile. (Did you see my
response to your post re the JPEG/TIFF profile in Bryan's site?) Do
your level/curve adjustment, resolution to 300 or 360dpi (under
image/image size, uncheck the resample image box and change
resulution from 72dpi to 300 or 360dpi). Do the desired USM
(Image/mode/LABcolor, select 'lightness' under channels in the
right hand side pallette pane, then filter/sharpen/unsharpmask ,try
170%, 1.2, threshold2; under image/mode, change back to RGB colour,
your space will be now in the working space (I use AdobeRGB)
instead of the assigned space because LAB/RGB conversion had taken
place......now ready to print...

Under file/page-setup, printer property, check 'print review' box,
select 'custom/advance', uncheck 'high-speed', select paper, say,
premium glossy photopaper, select 1440dpi. Now, the following
deviates from clasical teaching but give it a try anyhow. Under
colour management, select 'Photoenhance 4', tone/normal,
effect/none, check 'digital camera correction' box. OK the lot.
Choose your paper size and orientation.

Go back to file/print with preview, adjust print size, check 'show
more options' box, and 'colour management', you will see your
working space adopted as document source space, under
print-space/profile, select printer colour management. THEN print.

If the above does not work, I owe you one metre strip of PGPP, ink
on you. I only recently got this working well. May be it only works
on my particular set-up.

Gordon Chau

Gordon,
You are not only my friend, but also my God.

I, like you am also reluctant to buy a spyder. All the technical bit has so far been no help whatsoever, so I don't want to spend £250 and stilll have pants from my printer.

Tomorrow, (or the day after) when I am sober, I am going to follow your advice.(which I am sure no right thinking man would do)
icc profiles are nearly as strange as device drivers.

God willing, I will get something from my printer which at least bears some relationship to the info I have painstakingly recorded from my camera and matched on my monitor.
Inshallah,

--
DaveMart

Gordon Chau65853 · Aug 6, 2002

Member said:
You are not only my friend, but also my God.

Dave

God just shouted aloud in the depth of my heart that HE IS THE ONLY ONE. Please say sorry to Him. God also made me the D7 and the Epson 895 to teach me patience.

My recommendation above just happens to work for my set-up; I just thought yours is similar and may work for you too. Otherwise, I agree this sounds illogical that it should work better the the prescribed methods. Not as if I had not tried hard enough. May be I really should have got a Spyder, like I said months ago......

Gordon Chau

Art Rosch · Aug 7, 2002

Gordon Chau said:
Gordon Chau65853 said:

You are not only my friend, but also my God.

Click to expand...

Dave

God just shouted aloud in the depth of my heart that HE IS THE ONLY
ONE. Please say sorry to Him. God also made me the D7 and the Epson
895 to teach me patience.

My recommendation above just happens to work for my set-up; I just
thought yours is similar and may work for you too. Otherwise, I
agree this sounds illogical that it should work better the the
prescribed methods. Not as if I had not tried hard enough. May be I
really should have got a Spyder, like I said months ago......

Gordon Chau

for those of you who are in the SF Bay Area, i am willing to come to your
place with my spyder/calibration gear. Depending on distance traveled,
i charge only to offset my expenses and for a bit of my time.
I consider this a community, and my stuff is, in a sense, a community
asset. But I strongly urge you to go in the direction of buying
a good profiling rig. The Monaco EZ Color system WORKS! i have
not experienced other systems. If you want Monitor/print matchup,
you need to have a good monitor. Not great, just good enough.
Then you profile your favorite papers and your favorite inks.
i have settled on Weink's CIS system. A consistent ink makes
consistent profiles. I use mostly epson papers. I have the occasional
problems, i have prints that don't look right but the number of times
that i can reproduce a print and use the monitor as my soft proof
has jumped exponentially. i sell these prints professionally. I blew at least
five hundred bucks on ink and paper tweaking my system endlessly
and agonziing over profiles. there's a point at which you realize
the waste of energy is also costly. A profiling system is a great tool.

Color management is one of the major issues in the digital darkroom.
I'm not a pro lab with a fifteen thousand dollar gretag-macbeth calibrator
and an epson 5500. I'm a semi-pro home-based photog with a D30
and some lenses, and my girlfriend's D7i. I only use the Spyder once
a month, the scanner/profiling software every time
I try a new paper, every time I get a new load of ink, evey time I even
suspect a batch of paper is slightly different than the one i bought
last week.

Makes things a lot simpler.

Art

Gordon Chau65853 · Aug 7, 2002

Art

I am sure you are right. I have spent a lot of time and money on cameras (D7, D100, lenses) and there is no reason to skip this fundemental step. I should get myself one. I am thinking hard if I should buy an Epson 2100 or just let the labs do the work as they are getting better. Either way, I must have a correctly calibrated monitor as a starting point. Just like there is no point wasting money on the ultimate speaker if one has a less than ideal turn-table.

Thanks.

Gordon Chau

vladi · Aug 7, 2002

I am just wondering if someone gives his photos to be printed in a shop. Will be the photos printed with their real colors or not? If not, then the calibrating of the monitor would not make big advantage.

I also would like to have well calibrated screen, but would be the expenses reasonable (for a calibration sistem) in the situation I described above?

Gordon Chau said:
Art

I am sure you are right. I have spent a lot of time and money on
cameras (D7, D100, lenses) and there is no reason to skip this
fundemental step. I should get myself one. I am thinking hard if I
should buy an Epson 2100 or just let the labs do the work as they
are getting better. Either way, I must have a correctly calibrated
monitor as a starting point. Just like there is no point wasting
money on the ultimate speaker if one has a less than ideal
turn-table.

Thanks.

Gordon Chau

David Martin · Aug 7, 2002

Art Rosch said:
for those of you who are in the SF Bay Area, i am willing to come
to your
place with my spyder/calibration gear. Depending on distance
traveled,
i charge only to offset my expenses and for a bit of my time.

Art Rosch said:
Art

Art,

So if you travel from SF to Bristol, England, plus a reasonable fee for time.....Uh, the spyders starting to sound cheaper!

Thanks, everyone for the help you've all been I'm going to get down to it this weekend and start experimenting with some of the suggestions everyone has made. At the end of the weekend I should either have the monitor and printer calibrated or have become irrevocably insane.

Seriouly, though, I'll see if I can adjust to get in anyway acceptable results and if not it's spyder time.

I'm a little reluctant to spend too much time fiddline this weekend as there's a baloon festival on in Bristol this weekend.Photo-op or what?
BTW,

In the original post for this thread I stated the adjustments that I had made to the brightness, colour balance etc of my monitor.

Anyone know how these affect the print? Presumably the printer is assuming that the monitor is at default settings.

I had tried to balance by printing out a colour chart (Dave's colour box at Imaging Resources) and arriving at the screen levels by adjusting until they matched.
Thanks Everyone,
Regards,
--
DaveMart

Jean Montambeault · Aug 7, 2002

David Martin said:
In the original post for this thread I stated the adjustments that
I had made to the brightness, colour balance etc of my monitor.
Anyone know how these affect the print?

Not in the least, I believe : your printer shouldn't be aware of your monitor. If he (or she, I haven't blown in the feathers of my printer yet) is... maybe they'll breed and all your problems will be solved if you raise the pups.

Ok now... I havent said a word until now because I'm so lame at knowing how stuff works but : I am a lucky b.....d so my monitor let me anticipate pretty much what I'll get in print. Indeed, if I'm shooting raw, the likeliness is uncanny. So...

First (in fact it was my last setting but I can say whatever I want to make a totally empirical approach look good no ?) I did set my monitor to 7500 °K, because I find it's enough yellow like that. Adjusted the gamma with AdobeGamma (I did not have much to change). I used ProDimage to embed a ICC profile to all of my unprocessed Dimage photos. Opened them in PhotoShop Elements which is ICC aware (can't justify the Big Sister, PS7 : I guess that I'll have to learn to shoot good right away

). Do whatever adjustement, cropping I feel like and save (the embeded ICC profile stays) and I print using PS Elements, with ProDimage.icm as an output. I don't think that the next step is important but I did set ProDimage.icm as the default printing profile for my printer, a HP932c.
--
Jean

David Martin · Aug 7, 2002

Jean Montambeault said:
David Martin said:

In the original post for this thread I stated the adjustments that
I had made to the brightness, colour balance etc of my monitor.
Anyone know how these affect the print?

Click to expand...

Not in the least, I believe : your printer shouldn't be aware of
your monitor. If he (or she, I haven't blown in the feathers of my
printer yet) is... maybe they'll breed and all your problems will
be solved if you raise the pups.

Ok now... I havent said a word until now because I'm so lame at
knowing how stuff works but : I am a lucky b.....d so my monitor
let me anticipate pretty much what I'll get in print. Indeed, if
I'm shooting raw, the likeliness is uncanny. So...

First (in fact it was my last setting but I can say whatever I want
to make a totally empirical approach look good no ?) I did set my
monitor to 7500 °K, because I find it's enough yellow like that.
Adjusted the gamma with AdobeGamma (I did not have much to change).
I used ProDimage to embed a ICC profile to all of my unprocessed
Dimage photos. Opened them in PhotoShop Elements which is ICC aware
(can't justify the Big Sister, PS7 : I guess that I'll have to
learn to shoot good right away ). Do whatever adjustement,
cropping I feel like and save (the embeded ICC profile stays) and I
print using PS Elements, with ProDimage.icm as an output. I don't
think that the next step is important but I did set ProDimage.icm
as the default printing profile for my printer, a HP932c.
--
Jean

What's ProDimage?
Thanks
--
DaveMart

vladi · Aug 7, 2002

Member said:
What's ProDimage?
Thanks
--
DaveMart

The long answer read here: http://clientes.netvisao.pt/mapril/prodimage/
The short answer is:

ProDimage is a Image Color Management (ICM) profile for Minoltas Dimage 5/7/S304, and a software that can embeds the profile in the image files from these cameras

Jean Montambeault · Aug 7, 2002

David Martin said:
What's ProDimage?

Yes, just as I was printing the Orchid Of The Day it came to me that I failed to copy the URL

This :
http://clientes.netvisao.pt/mapril/prodimage/

It embeds the ICC in the photo file, making in only 1Kb bigger (says he). The process is less than a minute for 62 files on my hard disk (the content of a 128 Mb CF at fine and 2560).

One doesn't have to use the ProDimage profile though and can embed another one if desired : I like this one though.

P.S. The orchid printed perfect. The light under which one looks at a print is very improtant. My printing match in light at 7500 unavoidably.

Member said:
Thanks
--
DaveMart

--
Jean

J A K · Aug 7, 2002

David Martin said:
I then chose the same option for the printer.

David - what exactly do you mean by this statement?

David - before I can help, please check the questions below.

Are you, or are you not using 1270/80 Epson profiles - provided by Epson?

Are you using Epson paper (e.g. I always use Epson HW Mate paper)?

Are you using Epson inks?

Please list the Epson settings you have set up.

J A K · Aug 7, 2002

David Martin said:
A Gateway branded Mitsubishi 2020 monitor
Which I have set on 6500Kelvin contrast +100%Brightness +15% colour
3 on the RGBR-gain +77%Ggain +68% B gain +57

Does your monitor actually display all this information when you "select" 6500 °K? Normally, you pick a temperature, or manually adjust each gun to either suit your personal taste or "accurately" set up the color temperature.

The $64,000 question. When you go to a variety of sites (e.g. Fuji, Canon, Nikon, etc.) and view their examples of "how good our camera is", do you see good pleasing color and an acceptable tonal range? These folks (especially Fuji) have spent big bucks making sure the pictures are not just good, but very good. Technology aside, if in your opinion, your monitor displays promotional pictures very well, it is save to assume the monitor is okay and we should focus our efforts on your printer.

BTW - regardless of the outcome of the questions above, you will need to contact the manufacturer of your monitor and get ICC profile data for your model and serial number.

Joe Kurkjian

Eugene Frank · Aug 7, 2002

David Martin said:
Guys and Girls,
I've been battling matching output for the past year now.At one
stage I got a fairly close match by eye, printing off and adjusting
the monitor etc.
I've tried to go the route of icc and have read up a little about
them.
I am using the following:
A Gateway branded Mitsubishi 2020 monitor
Which I have set on 6500Kelvin contrast +100%Brightness +15% colour
3 on the RGBR-gain +77%Ggain +68% B gain +57%
I have a G-force 2 graphics card and an Epson 1290 printer
I have tried setting graphics/monitor to Adobe RGB1998 or
DP202065(the 6500K setting) downloaded from the Mitsubishi site.
I then chose the same option for the printer.
I normally print from PS7.I now use the latest colour space as a
working profile.
The output looks fine onscreen in print preview.
Purple flowers end up as pink when it comes out of the printer.
I haven't got a spyder nor do I have any access to one.
Anyone got any ideas?
Yours despairingly,
--
DaveMart

I had the the above color matching problem with my old computer and printer. I'm printing using a Lexmark now so what do I know. I do know that with the old computer and printer I couldn't get the color right no matter what I did. I also know that now all the colors are matched perfectly and the pictures look sharp and lovely. The Lexmark just takes ten minutes to print 1 8 x 10 print on Max Photo.

When I first got this setup I went into the XP Operating System to match the monitor to the program to the printer. All the profiles were there. I read the directions for 30 minutes. I did all the work. Before I did this, at the last step, a little window popped up and informed me that Microsoft XP adjusts all color automatically and that what I was doing would not give me as good a result than the automatic setting. This has proved to be true for me. Maybe I just got lucky with the match. Will it work with an Epson printer? I don't know. Is Windows XP doing all the matching or have I just gotten lucky? I don't know.

David Martin · Aug 8, 2002

J A K said:
David Martin said:

I then chose the same option for the printer.

Click to expand...

David - what exactly do you mean by this statement?

JAK, I meant htat I also chose the iccDP202065 for the printer

J A K said:
David - before I can help, please check the questions below.

Are you, or are you not using 1270/80 Epson profiles - provided by
Epson?

Doesn't look like it, checking the profiles I have available for the printer.

The only profiles I have tried are the profiles downloaded fom Mitsubishi such as the DP202065 and Adobe RGB .
Presumably the ones you mean are the SP1290 profiles?
I haven't tried them.

J A K said:
Are you using Epson paper (e.g. I always use Epson HW Mate paper)?

I am using Epson Premium Glossy Photo Paper as the primary paper to test on.
I also have W.H. Sith Premium coated Inkjet Paper in a Mat finish

J A K said:
Are you using Epson inks?

Yes.

J A K said:
Please list the Epson settings you have set up.

Don't know what other details you mean.

I always check paper types etc and select premium glossy photo if that is what I am using.

What do you think, Doctor?

--
DaveMart

David Martin · Aug 8, 2002

J A K said:
David Martin said:

A Gateway branded Mitsubishi 2020 monitor
Which I have set on 6500Kelvin contrast +100%Brightness +15% colour
3 on the RGBR-gain +77%Ggain +68% B gain +57

Click to expand...

Does your monitor actually display all this information when you
"select" 6500 °K? Normally, you pick a temperature, or manually
adjust each gun to either suit your personal taste or "accurately"
set up the color temperature.

That's correct. I printed Dave's colour box from Imaging Resources and used the gain buttons until they matched as nearly as I could.

Some shots printed out not looking too bad, but if you try something like flowers it suffers a major colour transposition.

You can get away with it with buildings and so forth but it's way too bad for critical use.

J A K said:
The $64,000 question. When you go to a variety of sites (e.g.
Fuji, Canon, Nikon, etc.) and view their examples of "how good our
camera is", do you see good pleasing color and an acceptable tonal
range? These folks (especially Fuji) have spent big bucks making
sure the pictures are not just good, but very good. Technology
aside, if in your opinion, your monitor displays promotional
pictures very well, it is save to assume the monitor is okay and we
should focus our efforts on your printer.

No, I will try this and report back.

My feeling at the moment is that I'm unlikely to see any problems with the monitor.
Some of the better shots I download look simply superb.

When I downloaded the new icc for the D7 and put some test shots from imaging resources through them the difference was immediately apparent.

J A K said:
BTW - regardless of the outcome of the questions above, you will
need to contact the manufacturer of your monitor and get ICC
profile data for your model and serial number.

Those are the one's I have mentioned above.I have different profiles for different temperatures.

The only thing which looks a little odd is that one of the profiles is labelled Diamond Compatible 9300k G2.2.icm but I also have a profile DP202093.ICM. The other profiles are called DP202050.ICM and DP2065.ICM. They have no equivalent to the profile Diamond Compatible 9300K G2.2icm
I will check out Mitsubishi's web site again to try tto see what is going on.

When I originally installed them I knew even less, if possible, than now and was getting completely lost under a sea of iccs which I did not have the slightest idea of what the differences or uses were.
Thanks for all your help.

I rather suspect that I'm making some incredibly simple mistake, like perhaps I should use the monitor profile in Photoshop but specify one of the SP1290 profiles on the printer.

J A K said:
Joe Kurkjian

--
DaveMart

J A K · Aug 8, 2002

David Martin said:
J A K said:

David Martin said:

I then chose the same option for the printer.

Click to expand...

David - what exactly do you mean by this statement?

Click to expand...

JAK, I meant htat I also chose the iccDP202065 for the printer

Member said:

David - before I can help, please check the questions below.

Click to expand...

David - you cannot use your printer profile as your monitor profile and/or substitute it for your work space.

When using PS7 (or 6), the Monitor RGB has to be representative of your monitor. If you run Adobe gamma, load your monitor profile, you will see the phosphor chromaticity coordinates are specific to your monitor. How to do it - load your monitor profile, shoot for a gamma of 2.2 and use the wizard and do all three guns (be sure to really squint on RED and GRN). Double check your blue gamma adjustment by looking at netural desktop color. Note - Adobe gamma is used to set the Monitor RGB.

Then, choose your workspace (I would recommend sRGB for your camera's output - the Epson printer's gamut, at least for the 1270 I own, is pretty close to sRGB). I don't know what the gamut is for your specific printer.

OBTW - I don't use Adobe gamma to set brightness and contrast. I just skip (hit NEXT) the brightness and contrast adjustments and go directly to the gamma sliders. A suggestion - depending on how much life you have left in your monitor, start out by setting Contrast to 85 or 90 percent of maximum. Then put all the icons you can into one folder, and move all remaining icons and your one folder to the bottom of your screen; you should have left one folder and a couple of icons that can't be moved from your desktop. Adjust your monitor's vertical size to about 1/2 inch less than the maximum. Set the background of your desktop to a color of 0,0,0 (this is black). Then, adjust your brightness control until your desktop background just matches the the "black" of the 1/2 inch (on top of the display) you just exposed. Do this with very dim ambient illumination, and be sure to RECORD your brightness and contrast settings when finished. After I'm finished with the brightness setting, I set my desktop color to 75,75,75 (and it had better look gray when I finish adjusting the blue gamma slider).

David - the series of instructions above will set your workspace (sRGB), Monitor RGB profile based strictly on your specific monitor, brightness, and contrast. At this point, any good representative picture from Canon and/or Fuji's must look excellent to you; this means color and tonal range will look very good to you. If not, you messed up a step and need to repeat the procedure.

Your printer is another story (just about one half of one story). I'll check your reply to my other thread and try to get back to you tomorrow regarding the printer.

Hope this gets you started on the right path.

BTW - do you use QImage Pro for printer management?

Good night and good luck!

Sincerely,

Joe Kurkjian

Member said:
Member said:

Are you, or are you not using 1270/80 Epson profiles - provided by
Epson?

Click to expand...

Doesn't look like it, checking the profiles I have available for
the printer.
The only profiles I have tried are the profiles downloaded fom
Mitsubishi such as the DP202065 and Adobe RGB .
Presumably the ones you mean are the SP1290 profiles?
I haven't tried them.

Member said:

Are you using Epson paper (e.g. I always use Epson HW Mate paper)?

Click to expand...

I am using Epson Premium Glossy Photo Paper as the primary paper to
test on.
I also have W.H. Sith Premium coated Inkjet Paper in a Mat finish

Member said:

Are you using Epson inks?

Click to expand...

Yes.

Member said:

Please list the Epson settings you have set up.

Click to expand...

Don't know what other details you mean.
I always check paper types etc and select premium glossy photo if
that is what I am using.

What do you think, Doctor?

--
DaveMart

Mapril Oliveira · Aug 9, 2002

I use PhotoShop 7 and a Epson Photo 870 for printing, and assign the new D7 ICC profile (Minolta Dimage 7) to the files.

This is how I do for printing:

In PS, in the "Print with preview" window, select "Show more options", "Color Management". In "Source Space", select "Document" - PS show the document space, Minolta Dimage 7 in my case. In "Print Space", select "Printer color management" - this instructs PS to send the image data to the printer driver in the actual color space, without making any space conversion (the printer driver will do it). Open the "Printer Properties" and, in the printer driver, select the correct paper, then "Custom" and then "Color Management".

In theory, using this approach, the print colors should be very close to the colors in screen. In practice, it's not always the case. Happily, the Epson driver let us fine tune things - see this URL for a good explanation how to do it: http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html#Printer_settings

An alternative that you can use if you have a ICC profile for your specific paper (Epson provide profiles for several of their paper for download): in Photoshop, select the icc profile for the paper you are using in "Printer Space" (this instructs PS to make the conversion between the document space and the paper space profile). In the printer driver, select the correct paper, but select "No color management", instead of "Color Management" (if you select "Color Management", the conversion would take place twice).

One last warning: in PS, don't select the printer profile as the print space (for Epson printers, at least) - select "Printer color management" or one specific profile for the paper you are using)

Hope this helps,

Mapril

David Martin said:
Guys and Girls,
I've been battling matching output for the past year now.At one
stage I got a fairly close match by eye, printing off and adjusting
the monitor etc.
I've tried to go the route of icc and have read up a little about
them.
I am using the following:
A Gateway branded Mitsubishi 2020 monitor
Which I have set on 6500Kelvin contrast +100%Brightness +15% colour
3 on the RGBR-gain +77%Ggain +68% B gain +57%
I have a G-force 2 graphics card and an Epson 1290 printer
I have tried setting graphics/monitor to Adobe RGB1998 or
DP202065(the 6500K setting) downloaded from the Mitsubishi site.
I then chose the same option for the printer.
I normally print from PS7.I now use the latest colour space as a
working profile.
The output looks fine onscreen in print preview.
Purple flowers end up as pink when it comes out of the printer.
I haven't got a spyder nor do I have any access to one.
Anyone got any ideas?
Yours despairingly,
--
DaveMart

David Martin · Aug 10, 2002

J A K said:
David Martin said:

A Gateway branded Mitsubishi 2020 monitor
Which I have set on 6500Kelvin contrast +100%Brightness +15% colour
3 on the RGBR-gain +77%Ggain +68% B gain +57

Click to expand...

Does your monitor actually display all this information when you
"select" 6500 °K? Normally, you pick a temperature, or manually
adjust each gun to either suit your personal taste or "accurately"
set up the color temperature.

The $64,000 question. When you go to a variety of sites (e.g.
Fuji, Canon, Nikon, etc.) and view their examples of "how good our
camera is", do you see good pleasing color and an acceptable tonal
range? These folks (especially Fuji) have spent big bucks making
sure the pictures are not just good, but very good. Technology
aside, if in your opinion, your monitor displays promotional
pictures very well, it is save to assume the monitor is okay and we
should focus our efforts on your printer.

BTW - regardless of the outcome of the questions above, you will
need to contact the manufacturer of your monitor and get ICC
profile data for your model and serial number.

Joe Kurkjian

I've now checked out the sites and can confirm that they look good,very good.

My bank manager may become upset with you as you have made me lust after a Fuji S2.
I intend to explain that it is your fault entirely.

I have also printed off the many kind replies I received and am going to work my way through them. This looks as though it will take some time.

my guess is that the problem is probably a simple one, something like my specifying the wrong profile for my monitor.
Thanks again for all the help from everyone.
I'll keep you posted.
Regards,
--
DaveMart

David Martin · Aug 10, 2002

David Martin said:
Guys and Girls,
I've been battling matching output for the past year now.At one
stage I got a fairly close match by eye, printing off and adjusting
the monitor etc.
I've tried to go the route of icc and have read up a little about
them.
I am using the following:
A Gateway branded Mitsubishi 2020 monitor
Which I have set on 6500Kelvin contrast +100%Brightness +15% colour
3 on the RGBR-gain +77%Ggain +68% B gain +57%
I have a G-force 2 graphics card and an Epson 1290 printer
I have tried setting graphics/monitor to Adobe RGB1998 or
DP202065(the 6500K setting) downloaded from the Mitsubishi site.
I then chose the same option for the printer.
I normally print from PS7.I now use the latest colour space as a
working profile.
The output looks fine onscreen in print preview.
Purple flowers end up as pink when it comes out of the printer.
I haven't got a spyder nor do I have any access to one.
Anyone got any ideas?
Yours despairingly,
--
DaveMart

Thanks to all.
Looks like that with your help it's cracked.
My mistake was that I had a monitor profile associated with my printer.
I specified the correct Epson Premium photo quality profile for my printer,

Opened the shot in the new icc and assigned the profile, converted to Epson Premium Glossy photo in PS and printed.

Went back and adjusted the brightness etc on my monitor until it matched the print , adjusted the shot until it was how I wanted it then re-printed.

It's not perfect, and I intend to work through the many suggestions I have received, but it's basically outputting the correct colours.
I'm going to start writing Idiot's guides, as I feel I have the qualifications.

My only remaining problem is that shots don't look quite se nice before adjustment as they did.
Anyone any thoughts?
Thanks to all,
--
DaveMart

J A K · Aug 10, 2002

David Martin said:
I've now checked out the sites and can confirm that they look
good,very good.
My bank manager may become upset with you as you have made me lust
after a Fuji S2.

"Lust" is an interesting word. Are you sure the "lust" is directed at the camera, and not the attractive models?

Member said:
I intend to explain that it is your fault entirely.

It is okay with me - I have big shoulders - but I cry easily.

Member said:
I have also printed off the many kind replies I received and am
going to work my way through them. This looks as though it will
take some time.
my guess is that the problem is probably a simple one

I hope you are correct about the "simple" description. Usually, this stuff is not simple at all. In fact, it is pretty darn difficult.

Below is a link to a reply I made (a tongue-in-cheek type of reply) regarding having problems with color management. My reply is absolute fact (with ultra dry humor and total disgust for the entire color management process). This will give you an idea of the kind of cr?p I went through to get everything perfect (perfect?, well at least until I have to buy Epson's newly reformulated inks for my 1270 printer).

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1014&message=3128010

Well, now that I know your display is set up okay, I will read your original post again to see if I can figure what might be going wrong for you.

Good luck to all of us, and "Happy Color Managemant, One and All".

Sincerely,

Joe Kurkjian

Getting my prints to look like my screen

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