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Ultimate G1 IQ...

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Brian Mosley

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Location
Sheffield, South Yorkshire, England, UK
Panasonic G1 + 4/3rds Adapter + ZD 14-35mm f2 SWD



Tripod mounted this morning (-6dec C) on the way home from school run...

9 images bracketed, converted to DNG using free Adobe converter...
Dragged 9 DNG's into PhotoAcute - output 8000 x 6000 resolution HDR image.

Converted this to TIFF using Qimage Studio, imported to Lightzone for conversion to B&W, levels adjustment and scaling to 1280 x 958 web resolution. Zero sharpening.

Kind Regards

Brian
--
Preview Exhibition Book One here :
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/522280

Join our free worldwide support network here :
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Hi Brian-

There is something about a lonesome tree that always gets me. Well done.

Since you have an adapter I assume you have an Oly "E" camera. Do you have a 40-150mm f4-5.6? If so, could you share a shot or two? I have a E-510 and a G1 due this afternoon and would like a little more reach than the kit lens and was thinking about the adapter rather than the 45-200mm OIS.

Regards - John W
 
I do have the ZD kit lens you mention - it's a great little performer... I think it will also CDAF with the G1 (with the firmware update) - will try to get you some samples, but it should be fine really. The big problem with anything long on the G1 is it needs to be stabilised imho, or fast.

I chose the fast legacy lens route (Hex 135mm f2.5) - I have the E-3 + 50-200mm SWD + 1.4x TC for the long stuff.

Kind Regards

Brian
--
Preview Exhibition Book One here :
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/522280

Join our free worldwide support network here :
http://www.ukphotosafari.org/join-the-ukpsg/
 
Hi Brian,

It was some time ago I tried PhotoAcute with G1 files. Then I had a 90mm mounted and just picked a profile for a 5D... I got sharpening halos also when ticking the option for preventing them.

What profile did you use for this image?

regards,

--
Jonas
 
Beautiful shot, Brian. The detail is incredible. Sure makes that G1 tempting.

Glad to see you back in Pannyland! I hope you and the family are all well. My little girl is going off to college this year to study, of all things, photography. How fast it all goes. Good to see you now have a camera with a really fast lens to capture all those great moments.
Regards,
Daniel
--
http://danielsonkin.smugmug.com/
FX01 & FZ50
 
It's good to be back, the Oly forum gets a bit serious sometimes ;)

I just took a quick look at your Norway Gallery - hoping to get out there this year :

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=106478543555192071681.000451a5a3d65746758d7&ll=58.950008,5.798035&spn=0.61483,2.114868&z=10

Kind Regards

Brian
--
Preview Exhibition Book One here :
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/522280

Join our free worldwide support network here :
http://www.ukphotosafari.org/join-the-ukpsg/
 
Brian Mosley said:
I used the E-3 + 14-35mm f2 profile.
Click to expand...
Hmm. Your image look mighty fine. It seems as the PhotoAcute processing worked out. You don't have any halos around fine details when viewing the image in 100% size?

I got some halos, as mentioned, when using an unsupported lens. Maybe a supported lens also if the sensor is different is a better choice. Lol - what lens should I then use?
Brian Mosley said:
I may do a profile for the G1 + lumix 14-45, if I can make the time.
Click to expand...
Maybe it is better talk to them first about what raw converter to use. They may or may not like the Panasonic idea about the correction carried out in SilkyPix and ACR?

Making a profile is a good way to get a license. Now you already have one so maybe let somebody else go through the steps? I contributed with material for three profiles when I had the E-510 and I recall it as somewhat tedious.

I may contact the Photoacute support asking them if they are willing to do profiles also for legacy lenses and the G1...

regards,

--
Jonas
 
nice job, looks great!

How's that 14-35 for CDAF? I saw someone posted a video of it, and it seemed pretty snappy!
--
Cloverdale, B.C., Canada
Olympus e-510 L1
http://joesiv.smugmug.com
 
Just curious. Would it not been more practical to to use the mono option of the G1, knowing that the final product would be mono, and then go through the process of image manipulation for the sake of processing speed and file size manipulation, or you must have a very powerful machine that this is not a consideration. The result, however, is fantastic.

Richard
 
DSLR's use Phase Detect Auto Focus... which requires specific sensors on the focal plane (i.e. in place of sensor, which requires mirror down) but has been relatively fast.

The really exciting thing about the G1 is that the Sensor image is being processed to detect greatest contrast (i.e. sharp focus) faster than ever before... and as processing power increases I'm convinced this intelligent focusing will become the favoured method. You only have to see how well the G1 tracks movement and does face detection - no more focus/recompose necessary.

Kind Regards

Brian
--
Preview Exhibition Book One here :
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/522280

Join our free worldwide support network here :
http://www.ukphotosafari.org/join-the-ukpsg/
 
Acually I was thinking of the B/W smooth setting in the Scene option. But I will agree that colour converted to mono is possibily a better option. I used to do mono oil paintings using cyan, magenta, yellow to give me a neutral gray and use white to determine the intensity of the gray. I use the same principle to convert some of my colour images to mono, where a small colour shift can provide cooler or warmer grey tones, to give more effect to the final image.

Thank you for all the work you put into the 4/3rds community.

Richard
 
Lamprecht said:
Acually I was thinking of the B/W smooth setting in the Scene option.
But I will agree that colour converted to mono is possibily a better
option. I used to do mono oil paintings using cyan, magenta, yellow
to give me a neutral gray and use white to determine the intensity of
the gray. I use the same principle to convert some of my colour
images to mono, where a small colour shift can provide cooler or
warmer grey tones, to give more effect to the final image.
Click to expand...
more than just small color shifts, large color shifts can make huge differences in post. You could in effect go from "using" a red filter to green or blue, or anything in between.

But not only color shift by using color channels, with RAW you can change the white balance one way or another, which in conjunction with the color "filter" can give you much better gradiations, or even completely different tonality of areas.

those are my thoughts.

But yeah once you're use to a work flow you typically stick to it anyways
--
Cloverdale, B.C., Canada
Olympus e-510 L1
http://joesiv.smugmug.com
 
I am glad you are using a Panny camera again so you can contribute to this forum. You were always on the cutting edge so glad to have you around.

Very sharp pic. Was it the lens? I have seen references to the legacy olympus lenses and their fine quality.
 
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