Which is best teleconverter

I have the Canon 1.4 and 2x, the 100-400 and the 500 f4. Someone said
that you must use L glass with converters for best results. You will
get better results using a TC with better glass but the degradation
will still be there.

I use the 1.4 quite a lot but there is a noticeable loss in quality.
I'm sure Brian Schneider will confirm that even with the best lenses,
feather detail is degraded with any TC. Brian?

I rarely use the 2x because the loss in quality is very evident, but
the compromise may be worth it if the bird (subject) is very distant.

--
Phil Wallace
http://www.birdmad.co.uk
--i use the canon 400mm f5.6 & I have the canon TC. It is very sharp but of course no af without taping the pins. I also have the cheap tamron non-reporting 1.4 & it focusses well in btight light & seems just about as sharp. I have no experience with a 2X This picture was taken with 400mm + Tamron 1.4X



Brian Schneider

 
It shows a 270mm focal length while you could go 300mm w/o the converter. I'm guessing that it can only read how far the lens extended w/o the converter but could be wrong.

Was that your combined actual focal length for that shot, if you know? Great photo, surprised at going full manual and 1/640 sec and using f10. I never learned how to figure out exposure based on aperture other than by trial and error/guesstimating and looking at the green data in the vf.
 
270*1.4 =378
378 * 1.6 crop factor = 604.8 effective focal length.
Thanks! Learned something new there. I saw those Kenko tc comparisons and one other one that look pretty decent. When I spring for one, I'll compare the prices with Canon.
I always use manual. Time to bone up on your skills.
I have a long way to go, but when I look at where I once was, I done good for me. And thanks to people here and those little flashes of "aha, that's what they were talking about" you get now and then.

You've got that right. I progress so far then get stuck in a rut. What do I need to work on next? I need to read my Understanding Exposure and keep putting it off, work really hard for awhile then want to coast.

Last night before I fell asleep, I found myself thinking the craziest thing. I guess I'm allowed that at my age. We were working on lenses in physics lab years ago. I wasn't real enthused, and was the only female in the lab, felt like a drag on the guys because they seemed to know what they were doing there, so just quit showing up for class and flunked the course. One of my many regrets in life because later I could have used some of that info that didn't interest me then. I could have come through it if I'd have struggled harder.
 
I have a Tamron 1.4x (the cheap version) and a Sigma 2x APO teleconverter. Both of these work good with my Sigma 70-200 F2.8. I use the 70-200 and 2x combo for full-field soccer and the action images up to 8x10 inch are very good. I also use both of these with my Canon 100-300L on my 40D. Autofocus doesn’t work but manual focus using live view at 10x works great.
 
The Tamron 1.4x is also made by Kenko. It has 4 elements. The Kenko
Pro 1.4x is also available as a Tamron SP 1.4x. The Kenko Pro and
Tamron SP both have 5 elements, which is one reason why they
outperform the regular 1.4x teleconverter.
Interesting. I knew that the Kenko Pro and more expensive Tamron are
the same, but I didn't know that the cheaper Tamron is made by Kenko.
Does one company own the other?
The Kenko Pros were upgraded a few years ago: I don't know what happened with the Tamrons. I have two late-model Kenko Pro 300 1.4xes, and one older Tamron SP; the two Kenkos stacked are much better than the Tamron alone, which has a bit of haloing and exaggerates CA a little.

Unfortunately, my 100-400 stopped working properly with the two Kenkos when I upgraded to the 50D. I get occasional series of images where the frame jumps rapidly during exposure, causing a blur of anywhere up to 50 or even 100 pixels at a slight angle to the vertical as the IS goes crazy. No other IS lens behaves this way with the 50D and the Kenkos, so something must be marginally wrong with the 100-400's IS.

--
John

 
I have both the Kenko Pro 1.4X and the cheaper Tamron 1.4X. Both give
great results with my 70-200 F2.8 L IS (and the 70-200 F4 that I had
before). The cheaper Tamron doesn't report the aperture to the
camera, so it can be used with an F5.6 lens to maintain autofocus.
The Kenko Pro has slightly higher quality than the Tamron, but not by
much. I've even used the two stacked with the 70-200, and the results
are usable, but a significant reduction in quality from using just
one.
Quality of what ?

Subject, or 100% pixel view? Those are two completely different things. I use TCs for the subject, not for the pixels.

--
John

 
I have a Tamron 1.4x (the cheap version) and a Sigma 2x APO
teleconverter. Both of these work good with my Sigma 70-200 F2.8. I
use the 70-200 and 2x combo for full-field soccer and the action
images up to 8x10 inch are very good. I also use both of these with
my Canon 100-300L on my 40D. Autofocus doesn’t work but manual focus
using live view at 10x works great.
I'd rather stick with Canon, but could change my mind. Your situation is a little different than mine as I mainly need it for my 100-400. I'm going to forget the 2X for now and get the 1.4X but not right away, just got my car window mount, can't find where I was talking about that, so will stick it in here and if I don't get any feedback may start a new thread after I've had a chance to actually use it, been frantically taking photos (in lieu of scanning) and building an addition on a freebie web site, don't know if it is worth the trouble to me or them.

My first impression of this Giottos is WOW, that is so neat, well-built and didn't have to grab the instructions. I also got an adapter so I can take my Bogen 3030 tripod along in case I do need to get out of the car. So I got that all assembled and see that it's going to work.

I read far enough to see that you only have your window up a couple inches to mount it, makes sense. The only downside is that it is already a little heavy with the adapter, so I don't know how much weight it will bear. I will try it with my 100-400 and see, but if it doesn't I can use other lenses that won't make it so heavy.

But I seriously doubt it will hold the mount, the adapter, and the 100-400 especially with the tc which I don't have yet. It might be better to take the adapter off in that case and just try it with the quick release that came with it.

When I get some actual photos, I'll post a couple, now people have taken down their Christmas lights, there may still be some around somewhere. I'll try it out ASAP. Between shovelling snow and that web stuff, I've been on overload.

People might want to look into that, young and healthy can trek almost anywhere, but I can't manage the controls for very long getting out of the car plus, as I said someplace B4, getting out of my car when I'm by myself at night is dangerous. I've done it, but this will give me a little extra protection that I can keep my car locked and running, don't take my purse out any more but still risk getting robbed 'cuz I carry my checkbook and a two cards. Doubt anybody would want to hijack my old car because it's stick shift, 4-speed, but you never know.
 
rather than start a new thread. I'd pretty much decided to go with the 1.4x, then read something positive again about the 2x, then see c. hammet's response I missed about a 1.7x, think she knows her stuff.

The bottom line is that I really only want it for my 100-400 which I think starts at f4, NOT 2.8. So what if I lose 2 stops? I usually start at f5.6 w/that so far anyway, get more duds than I like but some stunning ones in between.

Now here are two 2x's, quite a difference in price, and I'm confused about the difference (shouldn't even be thinking about an extender when I know as little as I do, but that's sometimes how I force myself to forge ahead).

I hope the link works:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw_7_8?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=canon+2x+ii+extender&sprefix=Canon+2x

If not, put canon 2x in the search window and choose the canon 2x ii extender and hope amazon doesn't direct you to a different page.

Then on the more expensive extender, I read this (excerpted):

"With the EF 2x II, AF is possible with any EOS body if the lens has an f/2.8 or faster maximum aperture, and compatible Image Stabilization lenses maintain the IS feature when used with any current EOS camera."

Are they saying it cannot be used with the 100-400 which does have IS but not f2.8? I don't want it for my 70-200 2.8L because I already have 400mm. Even though I don't see so well, I can MF when I have to, don't always hit it but do often enough. Is that what it means? Don't count on AF? Or don't even try it on 100-400?

Then I see a couple new dslr-like zooms that go pretty high . . .tried that once B4 trying to go the cheaper route w/Canon S2 IS w/12x zoom, and I didn't like it at all wide open and took too long to find my target. My 100-400 is much better quality even if I lose a little focal length.

That's enough; I'm still thinking about it and may for some time yet.
 
rather than start a new thread. I'd pretty much decided to go with
the 1.4x, then read something positive again about the 2x, then see
c. hammet's response I missed about a 1.7x, think she knows her stuff.

The bottom line is that I really only want it for my 100-400 which I
think starts at f4, NOT 2.8. So what if I lose 2 stops? I usually
start at f5.6 w/that so far anyway, get more duds than I like but
some stunning ones in between.

Now here are two 2x's, quite a difference in price, and I'm confused
about the difference (shouldn't even be thinking about an extender
when I know as little as I do, but that's sometimes how I force
myself to forge ahead).

I hope the link works:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw_7_8?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=canon+2x+ii+extender&sprefix=Canon+2x

If not, put canon 2x in the search window and choose the canon 2x ii
extender and hope amazon doesn't direct you to a different page.

Then on the more expensive extender, I read this (excerpted):

"With the EF 2x II, AF is possible with any EOS body if the lens has
an f/2.8 or faster maximum aperture, and compatible Image
Stabilization lenses maintain the IS feature when used with any
current EOS camera."

Are they saying it cannot be used with the 100-400 which does have IS
but not f2.8? I don't want it for my 70-200 2.8L because I already
have 400mm. Even though I don't see so well, I can MF when I have
to, don't always hit it but do often enough. Is that what it means?
Don't count on AF? Or don't even try it on 100-400?

Then I see a couple new dslr-like zooms that go pretty high . .
.tried that once B4 trying to go the cheaper route w/Canon S2 IS
w/12x zoom, and I didn't like it at all wide open and took too long
to find my target. My 100-400 is much better quality even if I lose
a little focal length.

That's enough; I'm still thinking about it and may for some time yet.
--no AF on 100-400. with 2X or 1.4X unless you have 1 series body.
Brian Schneider

 
--no AF on 100-400. with 2X or 1.4X unless you have 1 series body.
Brian Schneider
Pretty much rules out anything airborne, can't very well MF on that and would miss too many shots. Add that to the fact that anything beyond 400mm probably requires a tripod and panning/tracking, it is almost too much for my level of expertise.

Back to the drawing board on that one, because it pretty much narrows it all down to relatively stationary subjects. Could set the focus on infinity, but would hate to find out the hard way it won't work plus probably ruin any bokeh.

Thanks, you really hit the bottom line here.
 
You just attach the two converters to each other,
and then to the lens, and then to the body.
Or, you can do it in whichever order you please.
???????? Surely the only order is lens, 1.4x, 1.4x, camera? Am I
missing something?
--
I just saw this reply. On the assumption that you're not joking, what I was referring to was the order in which you attach the lens, converters, and cameras to each other. I was talking about temporal order. For example, you can first attach one converter to the lens, then the other, then the whole array of lens and two converters to the camera. Or, you can attach one converter to the camera, then the other, then the lens. Or you can attach one converter to the other, then the two converters to the lens, then the lens/converters combination to the camera. Etc.
--
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

 
I have both the Kenko Pro 1.4X and the cheaper Tamron 1.4X. Both give
great results with my 70-200 F2.8 L IS (and the 70-200 F4 that I had
before). The cheaper Tamron doesn't report the aperture to the
camera, so it can be used with an F5.6 lens to maintain autofocus.
The Kenko Pro has slightly higher quality than the Tamron, but not by
much. I've even used the two stacked with the 70-200, and the results
are usable, but a significant reduction in quality from using just
one.
Quality of what ?

Subject, or 100% pixel view? Those are two completely different
things. I use TCs for the subject, not for the pixels.

--
Good point. What I meant was that the quality of the image that results from using the 70-200 and two converters is significantly worse than the quality of the image that would have resulted had I used the 70-200 with one converter and been close enough to the subject for it to occupy the same amount of the frame. Perhaps I overstated it with "significant". But my experience is that the difference in quality (using the same understanding of difference in quality) between the 70-200 alone and using it with one converter is negligible. I have no qualms about using two converters, and prefer to do that rather than upres the results from one converter.

--
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

 
--no AF on 100-400. with 2X or 1.4X unless you have 1 series body.
Brian Schneider
Pretty much rules out anything airborne, can't very well MF on that
and would miss too many shots. Add that to the fact that anything
beyond 400mm probably requires a tripod and panning/tracking, it is
almost too much for my level of expertise.

Back to the drawing board on that one, because it pretty much narrows
it all down to relatively stationary subjects. Could set the focus
on infinity, but would hate to find out the hard way it won't work
plus probably ruin any bokeh.

Thanks, you really hit the bottom line here.
--Actually if you tape the pins on the 1.4x tc it will af on a xxD body but only in bright light & may hunt focus. A non-reporting tc such as the Tamron will af.
Brian Schneider

 
--Actually if you tape the pins on the 1.4x tc it will af on a xxD
body but only in bright light & may hunt focus. A non-reporting tc
such as the Tamron will af.
So in your opinion, which one is better, the 1.4x tc taped (I usually do birds in good light but in the trees or shade, maybe it's not good enough), the Tamron (it's probably been discussed and I just can't remember), or the 1.7x mentioned by c. hammett (maybe you're not familiar with that one).

Sigh. I'll have to look up xxD body, am guessing that's what the 20D is, but don't know about 30 and on up.

I can learn to tape pins, and can tolerate some hunting and misfocussing, just not a huge hassle of it.

I googled the 1.7x, as usual, mixed opinions, if you're going to use one, get the Canon.

Thanks again for your input.
Brian Schneider

 
--Actually if you tape the pins on the 1.4x tc it will af on a xxD
body but only in bright light & may hunt focus. A non-reporting tc
such as the Tamron will af.
So in your opinion, which one is better, the 1.4x tc taped (I usually
do birds in good light but in the trees or shade, maybe it's not good
enough), the Tamron (it's probably been discussed and I just can't
remember), or the 1.7x mentioned by c. hammett (maybe you're not
familiar with that one).

Sigh. I'll have to look up xxD body, am guessing that's what the 20D
is, but don't know about 30 and on up.

I can learn to tape pins, and can tolerate some hunting and
misfocussing, just not a huge hassle of it.

I googled the 1.7x, as usual, mixed opinions, if you're going to use
one, get the Canon.

Thanks again for your input.
Brian Schneider

--
--I have both & usually pick up the Tammy (with my 400 5.6L) & the canon with the 70-200 2.8L. I really havnt noticed a big quality diff on the 400. The canon is noticably better on the zoom. I dont know anything about the 1.7.
Have you looked at Fredmiranda, some good user reviews there

http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=118&sort=7&cat=31&page=1
Brian Schneider

 
--I have both & usually pick up the Tammy (with my 400 5.6L) & the
canon with the 70-200 2.8L. I really havnt noticed a big quality diff
on the 400. The canon is noticably better on the zoom. I dont know
anything about the 1.7.
So you're saying you have the Tamron 1.4x you use on your 400 and Canon 1.4x on the 70-200? Most people seem to be putting it on the latter. Your 400 is a prime (better but no zoom). Sounds like you have to tape pins on both, Tamron is cheaper . . .now I'm trying to figure why you'd want to bother with the 70-200 since you have 400 covered, but maybe the former is more versatile in some situations . . .and faster.
Have you looked at Fredmiranda, some good user reviews there
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?
I've got a lot more reading to do there (and snow to deal with in the morning). Of course, I haven't looked at it (not being sarcastic), thanks for the link, so much out there. Saw some nice bird pics, can't remember which combo. Hardly anyone is talking about putting it on the 100-400. I figure unless you calculate differently, I'd max it to 560mm, sure would love 600 :-). Or more. Always want more. Plus I'm not sure you want to go totally wide open.

I should look at your gallery. Later. Tnx again.
Brian Schneider

 
--I have both & usually pick up the Tammy (with my 400 5.6L) & the
canon with the 70-200 2.8L. I really havnt noticed a big quality diff
on the 400. The canon is noticably better on the zoom. I dont know
anything about the 1.7.
So you're saying you have the Tamron 1.4x you use on your 400 and
Canon 1.4x on the 70-200? Most people seem to be putting it on the
latter. Your 400 is a prime (better but no zoom). Sounds like you
have to tape pins on both, Tamron is cheaper . . .now I'm trying to
figure why you'd want to bother with the 70-200 since you have 400
covered, but maybe the former is more versatile in some situations .
. .and faster.
Have you looked at Fredmiranda, some good user reviews there
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?
I've got a lot more reading to do there (and snow to deal with in the
morning). Of course, I haven't looked at it (not being sarcastic),
thanks for the link, so much out there. Saw some nice bird pics,
can't remember which combo. Hardly anyone is talking about putting
it on the 100-400. I figure unless you calculate differently, I'd
max it to 560mm, sure would love 600 :-). Or more. Always want
more. Plus I'm not sure you want to go totally wide open.

I should look at your gallery. Later. Tnx again.
Brian Schneider

--
--The Tamron is non-reporting, the camera doesnt know its there so no need to tape pins. The 1.4 on 70-200 gives me a 98-280 f4 lens with no noticible IQ loss.
Brian Schneider

 

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