Hot Pixels Test

I download the Dead/Hot Pixel Test and run the test according to the instruction. At 1/60 no dead and no hot pixels. At 1/30 4 hot pixels and up to 33 hot pixels and no dead pixel at 2 second exposure time. The first 4 hot pixels are bright pink in the middle of the screen. My camera is still under warranty. Should I take it in for repair or maybe all CCD is like this?
Also what is a firmware upgrade?

Desmond said:

I download the Dead/Hot Pixel Test and run the test according to
the instruction. At 1/60 no dead and no hot pixels. At 1/30 4 hot
pixels and up to 33 hot pixels and no dead pixel at 2 second
exposure time. The first 4 hot pixels are bright pink in the
middle of the screen. My camera is still under warranty. Should I
take it in for repair or maybe all CCD is like this?
Also what is a firmware upgrade?

Click to expand...

All CCDs are subject to some degree of hot pixels and/or dead pixels. As long as you do not have any dead pixels you will probably be OK. If the few hot pixels that show up at 1/30 do not bother you, keep it and send it in near the end of your warranty period for repair. A lot of people seem to do the same thing.

As far as a firmware upgrade is concerned, that is done by Olympus, there is no way to update the firmware yourself. Most people find that Olympus updates the firmware when the camera is sent in for repair or service.

On my 2100, hot pixels do not seem to show up until well past the 2sec exposure.

Thanks but what did firmware upgrade do?

Sneezer said:

Desmond said:

I download the Dead/Hot Pixel Test and run the test according to
the instruction. At 1/60 no dead and no hot pixels. At 1/30 4 hot
pixels and up to 33 hot pixels and no dead pixel at 2 second
exposure time. The first 4 hot pixels are bright pink in the
middle of the screen. My camera is still under warranty. Should I
take it in for repair or maybe all CCD is like this?
Also what is a firmware upgrade?

Click to expand...

All CCDs are subject to some degree of hot pixels and/or dead
pixels. As long as you do not have any dead pixels you will
probably be OK. If the few hot pixels that show up at 1/30 do not
bother you, keep it and send it in near the end of your warranty
period for repair. A lot of people seem to do the same thing.

As far as a firmware upgrade is concerned, that is done by Olympus,
there is no way to update the firmware yourself. Most people find
that Olympus updates the firmware when the camera is sent in for
repair or service.

On my 2100, hot pixels do not seem to show up until well past the
2sec exposure.

Click to expand...

I just tried a dead pixel test with Olympus C-2100. Is this about normal?

I tried it as ISO100 at 2, 4, 8, and 16 secs.
I got no dead/hot pixels until I did 16 secs and then got 4 hot pixels:

976,820 luminance 71
977,820 luminance 71
976,821 luminance 69
977,821 luminance 71

This is with Michael Salzlechner's program with default settings.
The thresholds are 60 and 250.

I'm no wizard at this, but from other posts I've read that sounds excellent! Have you been keeping your UZI in the freezer to keep the CCD cold? I just did mine at 16 seconds, and get 22 hots, 1 of them with luminance 232. No, I'm not sending it in until the warranty is nearly up. Just to make sure I did mine right - it's in TIFF mode, right?

Mike Carson said:

I just tried a dead pixel test with Olympus C-2100. Is this about
normal?

I tried it as ISO100 at 2, 4, 8, and 16 secs.
I got no dead/hot pixels until I did 16 secs and then got 4 hot
pixels:

976,820 luminance 71
977,820 luminance 71
976,821 luminance 69
977,821 luminance 71

This is with Michael Salzlechner's program with default settings.
The thresholds are 60 and 250.

Click to expand...

Yep. It was in Tiff mode at about 78 degrees. Those things seemed to take forever to save compared to my normal SHQ photos.

Mike Carson

erin.rounds said:

I'm no wizard at this, but from other posts I've read that sounds
excellent! Have you been keeping your UZI in the freezer to keep
the CCD cold? I just did mine at 16 seconds, and get 22 hots, 1 of
them with luminance 232. No, I'm not sending it in until the
warranty is nearly up. Just to make sure I did mine right - it's
in TIFF mode, right?

Click to expand...

I must have a real bad CCD since I got 33 hot ones at only 2 seconds.

Mike Carson said:

Mike Carson

erin.rounds said:

I'm no wizard at this, but from other posts I've read that sounds
excellent! Have you been keeping your UZI in the freezer to keep
the CCD cold? I just did mine at 16 seconds, and get 22 hots, 1 of
them with luminance 232. No, I'm not sending it in until the
warranty is nearly up. Just to make sure I did mine right - it's
in TIFF mode, right?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Desmond said:

I must have a real bad CCD since I got 33 hot ones at only 2 seconds.

Click to expand...

Not necessarily. This was my original test:

Desmond105646 said:

Desmond105646 said:

erin.rounds said:

I just did mine at 16 seconds, and get 22 hots, 1 of
them with luminance 232. No, I'm not sending it in until the
warranty is nearly up.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

But this is 1/4 of the screen on the same camera on a 13 second shot.



The difference was this was after more than an hour of shooting long exposures in an at least 95 degree third floor room under a slate roof.

If you had taken other pictures before you started testing, done other exposures at other speeds prior to this one, or were in a warm room, they may test "hotter" than they normally would. So even though I have a field of hot pixels there, I'm not going to be doing 13 second exposures in that environment regularly, so its not going in for service until closer to the end of the warranty.

erin. said:

But this is 1/4 of the screen on the same camera on a 13 second shot.

Click to expand...

That looks even worse than my E100RS did at 16 secs though you don't seem to have the clusters of HOT pixels which were visible all the time

erin. said:

The difference was this was after more than an hour of shooting
long exposures in an at least 95 degree third floor room under a
slate roof.

Click to expand...

OK.. mine was stone cold at about 65Deg, but even so, I suggest Oly either limit the times to 4 or so secs or put a warning in the manual.. That shot looked like it had been printed out on a 1st generation Hp Colour deskjet LOL..

--
Olympus E10 / WCON, E100RS, Nikon E950, E900.

Adam-T said:

. . . I suggest Oly
either limit the times to 4 or so secs or put a warning in the
manual.. That shot looked like it had been printed out on a 1st
generation Hp Colour deskjet LOL..

Click to expand...

Well, you've discovered that I apparently have no shame, and will do anything to make a point, and now you will torment me with it until I run away like "poor" Fled. Maybe I shouldn't write that - he might come back.

I don't know when the last time I've had 3 good belly laughs in 3 hours just from READING something . . .you are a trip . . .
Erin