C2100 vs C700

Yes, but to a small fraction of the extent that you get with the C700. I've had both and the C700 didn't last 2 days in my house.
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
 
Search this forum for "chromatic aberration" and you should get some background. Of the two UZI's I've owned, one was more pronounced than the other, so it varies from camera to camera as well.
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
It does indeed. The E100 displays some as well, though I think in
fewer situations.
 
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
Yes, as do all digicams with long zoom ranges. The Canon Pro-90, C2100UZ, C700UZ, C720, etc., all have a degree of red/green fringe (chromatic aberrateion) as well as some blue (blooming). This is quite normal for about any consumer camera. My CP990 Nikon has it, my DSC-F707 Sony has it, my E-100RS has it, as do my DSC-S70 Sony, Canon S100, Nikon CP950 and several others.

The easiest way to deal with this is to purchase Picture Window Pro 3.1 for $89 and it's about a 2 second correction. You can also try the quick fix with QimagePro and in stubborn cases you can use PhotoShop or other tools to mask and desaturate the troublesome areas.

It's just a fact of life with consumer grade digital cameras and longer lenses.

Lin
http://204.42.233.244
 
One would almost suspect that you are a photographer by profession with all those cameras and knowledge of them;-)
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
Yes, as do all digicams with long zoom ranges. The Canon Pro-90,
C2100UZ, C700UZ, C720, etc., all have a degree of red/green fringe
(chromatic aberrateion) as well as some blue (blooming). This is
quite normal for about any consumer camera. My CP990 Nikon has it,
my DSC-F707 Sony has it, my E-100RS has it, as do my DSC-S70 Sony,
Canon S100, Nikon CP950 and several others.

The easiest way to deal with this is to purchase Picture Window Pro
3.1 for $89 and it's about a 2 second correction. You can also try
the quick fix with QimagePro and in stubborn cases you can use
PhotoShop or other tools to mask and desaturate the troublesome
areas.

It's just a fact of life with consumer grade digital cameras and
longer lenses.

Lin
http://204.42.233.244
 
I've noticed from a respone here that "purple fringe" (chromatic aberration)
is a result of the 10x zoom. I thought it was probably a firmware problem.

My brief experience with this camera indicates that "purple fringe" is more pronounced at full opitcal zoom....it also has more of a tendency to raise it's ugly head in bright light. Heck, I live in a simi-tropical climate where there is losts of sun. I don't know if I can live with this even thought I got the camera at a good Sears Internet Price match.
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
 
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
My data says the 700 and 720 are worse than the 2100. the E-100RS is better than either (totally different focal plane design).

For some data, check the reviews at dpreview. Phil A. is death on purple fringing and looks for it very carefully.

Phil
 
Yes, as do all digicams with long zoom ranges. The Canon Pro-90,
C2100UZ, C700UZ, C720, etc., all have a degree of red/green fringe
(chromatic aberrateion) as well as some blue (blooming). This is
quite normal for about any consumer camera. My CP990 Nikon has it,
my DSC-F707 Sony has it, my E-100RS has it, as do my DSC-S70 Sony,
Canon S100, Nikon CP950 and several others.
This thread seems to be talking about two very different faults as if they were related:

CHROMATIC ABBERATION



This is a fault of lenses that goes back way before cameras. It has to do with the fact that different colors of light refract differently as they passthrough a lens. The worst case is a prism, which converts a beam of white light into a rainbow. In Camera lenses multiple elements and special coatings are used to try to get the red and the green to focus on the same point. The failure to do this shows up as a red fringe on one side of an object and a green fringe on the other side. It usually shows up at the outer edge of the picture and is hardest for the manufacturer to correct in a zoom lens at full extension.

BLOOM



This is a failure particular to digital camera sensors. It doesn't really have anything to do with the lens or the amount of zoom. When a high contrast edge is focused on the sensor (white and black) the brightness (or charge) from the white sensor bleeds into the black sensor, usually in a purple color. This shows up as purple fringes in pictures such as a bright sky seen through leaves. It is often accentuated by the sharpening algorithm in the camera. It is possible the further development of sensors (Foveon? Super-CCD?) will reduce this effect, but until then, we simply select the area and de-saturate the magenta color.

--
Fritz (3 x C-21OO, B-3OO, FL-4O)
 
Every Digicam I've owned suffers to some extent regardless of Zoom range, even the ancient CCD VGA Apple Quicktake-100 of the early 90s - the Nikon 900 & 950 are pretty bad, the 600 only slightly better, the E10 far better.

believe it or not, the least amount I've seen is in the Fuji 2400Z , barely detectable, it also has the least amount of barrel distortion at least equal to the E10..

--
Olympus E10, Nikon E950, E900.
 
Before getting this C700, I had the Canon PowerShot A40. I returned two of those due to bad autofocus and slanting problems. I understand that Canon is finally admiting to the bug in the camera and are working on a firmware upgrade to correct it.

However, when the autofocus problem on the A40 did not occur, that little camera took some GREAT pictures. I didn't notice any chromatic aberration with either of the two A40's I had. If I decide to return this C700, heck I'll just wait until Canon fixes that problem. I really did like that little A40. The color on that camera was more vivid then I've seen so far on this C700....even though the A40 has a neutral and vivid color setting. I didn't even need the vivid setting.

FWIW...the autofocus problem on the A40 would occur on pics shot at the 13.4 focal length. You can read about it here:
http://powershot.inxtec.net/mb/viewtopic.php?t=1310
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
 
Yes, as do all digicams with long zoom ranges. The Canon Pro-90,
C2100UZ, C700UZ, C720, etc., all have a degree of red/green fringe
(chromatic aberrateion) as well as some blue (blooming). This is
quite normal for about any consumer camera. My CP990 Nikon has it,
my DSC-F707 Sony has it, my E-100RS has it, as do my DSC-S70 Sony,
Canon S100, Nikon CP950 and several others.
This thread seems to be talking about two very different faults as
if they were related:
No Fritz,

That's a mis-interpretation of the thread. No one said anything about them being related. Chromatic aberration is found in all long zoom consumer quality digicam lenses. Blooming is caused by adjacent sensor voltage leakage (there are no black sensors and white sensors - only luminance). Blooming is most common in consumer grade CCD's because of the close proximity of the sensors. As the race to higher pixel density has continued, more sensor points have been crammed into chips which have not grown greatly in area. Professional level sensor are much less prone to blooming problems. It occurs sometimes in high contrast areas with wide aperture on my EOS-D30 (CMOS sensor) but I've never experienced it with my EOS-1D which has a considerably larger sensor with larger individual sensor points.

Lin
 
However, when the autofocus problem on the A40 did not occur, that
little camera took some GREAT pictures. I didn't notice any
chromatic aberration with either of the two A40's I had. If I
decide to return this C700, heck I'll just wait until Canon fixes
that problem. I really did like that little A40. The color on that
camera was more vivid then I've seen so far on this C700....even
though the A40 has a neutral and vivid color setting. I didn't
even need the vivid setting.

FWIW...the autofocus problem on the A40 would occur on pics shot at
the 13.4 focal length. You can read about it here:
http://powershot.inxtec.net/mb/viewtopic.php?t=1310
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
Ace H, hi.. Go here ur in luck!

http://www.photo-forums.com/[email protected] ^[email protected]

Post 144
 
The C700 is probably not as saturated in color as the Canon A40, but it has a load of manual features that the A40 does not have. If all you want to do is point and shoot, then its fine.

The c2100 have even less color saturation than the C700. You might consider the Sony 707, as you will be really happy with the color saturation that it has, the decent zoom and resolution.
However, when the autofocus problem on the A40 did not occur, that
little camera took some GREAT pictures. I didn't notice any
chromatic aberration with either of the two A40's I had. If I
decide to return this C700, heck I'll just wait until Canon fixes
that problem. I really did like that little A40. The color on that
camera was more vivid then I've seen so far on this C700....even
though the A40 has a neutral and vivid color setting. I didn't
even need the vivid setting.

FWIW...the autofocus problem on the A40 would occur on pics shot at
the 13.4 focal length. You can read about it here:
http://powershot.inxtec.net/mb/viewtopic.php?t=1310
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
--
Daniella
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C700 FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com
 
yes they both do, but the chromatic aberation is not much though.
It does not appear in every photos and when it does appear, it is
easy to remove.
Removing CA isn't quite as easy as adjusting color saturation though.
 
Actually I got the C700 by a "fluke". I knew I had to go pick up something at the mall, so before I left I found a cheap price from the Internet, printed it out but didn't really expect Sears to actually match it. They did so I bought it.
The c2100 have even less color saturation than the C700. You might
consider the Sony 707, as you will be really happy with the color
saturation that it has, the decent zoom and resolution.
However, when the autofocus problem on the A40 did not occur, that
little camera took some GREAT pictures. I didn't notice any
chromatic aberration with either of the two A40's I had. If I
decide to return this C700, heck I'll just wait until Canon fixes
that problem. I really did like that little A40. The color on that
camera was more vivid then I've seen so far on this C700....even
though the A40 has a neutral and vivid color setting. I didn't
even need the vivid setting.

FWIW...the autofocus problem on the A40 would occur on pics shot at
the 13.4 focal length. You can read about it here:
http://powershot.inxtec.net/mb/viewtopic.php?t=1310
Does the C2100 suffer form "purple fringe" as the C700 does?
--
Daniella
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C700 FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com
 
yes they both do, but the chromatic aberation is not much though.
It does not appear in every photos and when it does appear, it is
easy to remove.
Removing CA isn't quite as easy as adjusting color saturation though.
Hi Terry,

Actually, it is. It depends on what tools you have to remove it, the extent and location and somewhat on individual circumstances, but there are one-click approaches which work miracles in many cases - such as QimagePro's approach. Then there is the more sophisticated approach of Picture Window Pro 3.1 which has two simple sliders. One for red/green and one for blue. Total time to correct an image once you understand the procedure is about 2 to 5 seconds per image.

Best regards,

Lin
http://204.42.233.244
 
Hi Terry,
Actually, it is. It depends on what tools you have to remove it,
the extent and location and somewhat on individual circumstances,
but there are one-click approaches which work miracles in many
cases - such as QimagePro's approach. Then there is the more
sophisticated approach of Picture Window Pro 3.1 which has two
simple sliders. One for red/green and one for blue. Total time to
correct an image once you understand the procedure is about 2 to 5
seconds per image.

Best regards,

Lin
http://204.42.233.244
But you don't need any special tools to increase overall color saturation and the extent and location are irrelevent. I guess my point is that, like the CA that is "easily" fixed, the color saturation level can also be "easily" adjusted... even more so and even with the most basic of editing utilities.
 
Hi Terry,
Actually, it is. It depends on what tools you have to remove it,
the extent and location and somewhat on individual circumstances,
but there are one-click approaches which work miracles in many
cases - such as QimagePro's approach. Then there is the more
sophisticated approach of Picture Window Pro 3.1 which has two
simple sliders. One for red/green and one for blue. Total time to
correct an image once you understand the procedure is about 2 to 5
seconds per image.

Best regards,

Lin
http://204.42.233.244
But you don't need any special tools to increase overall color
saturation and the extent and location are irrelevent. I guess my
point is that, like the CA that is "easily" fixed, the color
saturation level can also be "easily" adjusted... even more so and
even with the most basic of editing utilities.
Yes, there are more utilities which have chroma saturation adjustment as a standard utility than have chromatic aberration correction. But I think the relevant point is that all the 10X zoom cameras, and most of the 8x and even 5x need chromatic aberration correction for the best possible images. Some also "may" need saturation adjustment, but that's more a personal preference choice than a necessity. On the other hand, chromatic aberration would need to be delt with or it would be quite apparent to most who examined a reasonably large print.

Oversaturation seems to be preferred by many to get that "snap" in the image, but most images which are highly saturated are not truly representative of the original subject. I suppose it all depends on the audience for the image. In my business (gallery fine art photography) the client is looking for an image which approximates reality as close as possible in a photograph, so the extreme saturations which are popular become counter productive. Of course none of the cameras under discussion would be appropriate for this type work, so it is, I suppose, a moot point...

Best regards,

Lin
http://204.42.233.244
 

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