has anyone used these telephotos?

Hi Tom!
So i woould go either Sigma or f you can afford it pentax 12-24 ...
these are FF btw
The Sigma 10-20 DC and Pentax DA 12-24 are designed for APS-C sensors.
The Sigma 12-24 DG is full-frame.

But the Pentax DA 12-24 can be used on film/FF from around 17 to 24 mm. Even wider if you are okay with cropping.

Cheers
Jens

--

'Well, 'Zooming with your feet' is usually a stupid thing as zoom rings are designed for hands.' (Me, 2006)
My Homepage: http://www.JensRoesner.de
 
As others have
mentioned, don't leave yourself without a fast lens like the 50mm.
You definitely will need it, especially in museums.
I'm not so sure. What would I use a fast 50 for in a museum?

Cheers
Jens
Exhibits that are dimly lit and behind glass. Zoos are even worse, because the exhibits move. : )

The 50mm is great for indoor shots of people, especially babies, animals and other living things, which as a rule don't like a horresndous big flash of light in their eyes. Besides, ambient light is prettier.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
Exhibits that are dimly lit and behind glass.
And these give good images at 50/1.4?
Zoos are even worse, because the exhibits move. : )
And you get good images of moving animals in dimly lit rooms with 50/1.4?
The 50mm is great for indoor shots of people, especially babies,
animals and other living things, which as a rule don't like a
horresndous big flash of light in their eyes.
Oh, I am not debating that a 50/1.4 can be useful. I'm just sceptical about its necessity for taking snapshoots of museum exhibits.
Besides, ambient light is prettier.
Depends on the lights in question ;)

Cheers
Jens

--

'Well, 'Zooming with your feet' is usually a stupid thing as zoom rings are designed for hands.' (Me, 2006)
My Homepage: http://www.JensRoesner.de
 
My Tamron
70-300mm Di is equivalent to the Quantaray you're considering, and it
does not stand up well at all to the 55-300mm.
Correction, it appears the Quantaray is the predecessor of my Tamron AF70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro. It has different coatings and a bigger problem with purple fringing. If you want a dirt-cheap 70-300, the Tamron Di is available for $130, very close to the Quantaray price. If you don't get the Pentax 55-300mm, go for the Tamron.

--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
The 50mm is one of the sharpest lenses made - by anyone - and it is a
great optic for portraits and low-light shots that have to be really
sharp. The sweet spot on the lens is f/5.6, which is what you would
choose for portraits.
Hi Norm.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "sweet spot", but according to the Photozone test, the 50mm F1.4 reaches maximum sharpness at F/4.

http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/Pentax%20Lens%20Tests/126-pentax-smc-fa-50mm-f14-review--lab-test-report?start=1
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
Exhibits that are dimly lit and behind glass.
And these give good images at 50/1.4?
If you need F/1.4, it's there. Obviously 2.0 and 2.8 are easier to work with.
Zoos are even worse, because the exhibits move. : )
And you get good images of moving animals in dimly lit rooms with
50/1.4?
See above. Wide aperture is tricky and you get lots of misses, but then what's the alternative?
Besides, ambient light is prettier.
Depends on the lights in question ;)
OK, I agree. But a couple of my favourite photos I made in dim room lighting at F/1.4. Alllow me to rephrase me earlier statement... I would consider the 50mm a necessity on a trip to Europe, and it would be on my camera on museum day.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
The 50mm is one of the sharpest lenses made - by anyone - and it is a
great optic for portraits and low-light shots that have to be really
sharp. The sweet spot on the lens is f/5.6, which is what you would
choose for portraits.
Hi Norm.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "sweet spot", but according to
the Photozone test, the 50mm F1.4 reaches maximum sharpness at F/4.

http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/Pentax%20Lens%20Tests/126-pentax-smc-fa-50mm-f14-review--lab-test-report?start=1
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
The 50mm has the best combination of centre and border resolution at f/5.6, as well as the best specs for chromatic aberrations at this f-stop. At f/4 the centre is sharper, but the border is less sharp, and the chromatic aberrations are slightly more evident. That's why I referred to f/5.6 as the "sweet spot" for the lens - but it exceeds all of the other 50mm lenses throughout the aperture range - truly a classic lens with incredible image quality.

You shoot portraits at f/5.6 in order to have the best depth of focus for the subject's facial features - focus on the eyes, and the ears, nose, and throat will be in focus as well... but the background will be gently out of focus, resulting in the very pleasing "pro" look for the portrait.

Norm.
 
Exhibits that are dimly lit and behind glass.
And these give good images at 50/1.4?
If you need F/1.4, it's there. Obviously 2.0 and 2.8 are easier to
work with.
No. I meant: Are museum exhibits good subjects? I rarely go to museums (unless you count industrial museums, too)



and even more rarely feel the need to take a shot in them that isn't of architectural features. And when I feel the need to take a shot of an exhibit, it's a snapshot and I don't need a 50/1.4 lens for this.
Zoos are even worse, because the exhibits move. : )
And you get good images of moving animals in dimly lit rooms with
50/1.4?
See above. Wide aperture is tricky and you get lots of misses, but
then what's the alternative?
Apart from not taking the shot: Higher ISO, shorter focal length.



Okay, he's not moving ;)
OK, I agree. But a couple of my favourite photos I made in dim room
lighting at F/1.4.
Of museum exibits? I know this sounds sarcastical, but I'd really like to see them, if you have them online.
Alllow me to rephrase me earlier statement... I
would consider the 50mm a necessity on a trip to Europe, and it would
be on my camera on museum day.
Isn't it refreshing how different people are :)

Cheers
Jens

--

'Well, 'Zooming with your feet' is usually a stupid thing as zoom rings are designed for hands.' (Me, 2006)
My Homepage: http://www.JensRoesner.de
 
If you can afford it, I would get the Pentax DA 55-300 over any other
budget 300mm zoom -- it's appreciably better than the Tamron/Quantary
or Sigma 300s.

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jl_smith
I have never used the 55-300, but I have to say that from what I have
seen posted, I haven't seen much to support this claim. I have the
Tamron 70-300 and I have been VERY impressed with what I have gotten
from it.
I have to agree, by my experience the 55-300 is without doubt the best consumer tele now available.. I've owned bothe the Tamron 70-300 DI LD & the Sigma 70-300 APO, neither of which I was completely happy with - I'm 100% happy with the 55-300 however

simon

--
http://www.landscapephotographyuk.com/

North Wales photographs - Snowdonia & Anglesey
 
No. I meant: Are museum exhibits good subjects? I rarely go to
museums (unless you count industrial museums, too)
To me, yes, certainly they are. The American Museum of Natural History being a prime example. They have everything.
http://www.amnh.org/
Apart from not taking the shot: Higher ISO, shorter focal length.
Yes, higher ISO is good, I use 800-1600 a lot, but sometimes you need high ISO and wide aperture. How would shorter focal length help?
OK, I agree. But a couple of my favourite photos I made in dim room
lighting at F/1.4.
Of museum exibits? I know this sounds sarcastical, but I'd really
like to see them, if you have them online.
No, not of museum exhibits. The last time I visited museums was last year in New York, and I didn't have a DSLR. You can bet I'll be carrying one next time. I do have lots of zoo shots and general photography shots at wide aperture and high ISO, but not online.

Your industrial shots are great. I worked in industrial plants for years, and I like that topic. I don't have any of those either. ; )
Isn't it refreshing how different people are :)
Got that right! If we all thought the same, how many lens choices would there be?

--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
The 50mm has the best combination of centre and border resolution at
f/5.6, as well as the best specs for chromatic aberrations at this
f-stop. At f/4 the centre is sharper, but the border is less sharp,
and the chromatic aberrations are slightly more evident. That's why I
referred to f/5.6 as the "sweet spot" for the lens
Good to know, thanks Norm.
You shoot portraits at f/5.6 in order to have the best depth of focus
for the subject's facial features - focus on the eyes, and the ears,
nose, and throat will be in focus as well... but the background will
be gently out of focus, resulting in the very pleasing "pro" look for
the portrait.
That surprises me because often I've heard people suggest F/2.8 for photos.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
I'm not so sure. What would I use a fast 50 for in a museum?
To add to the exhibit ;-)

OK, so they are good lenses, but the design is older than dirt. I'd much rather have the 35 f/2.



F/2 ISO 800 1/6th sec

Through the window in the wall
Come streaming in on sunlight wings
A million bright ambassadors of morning
 
Hi Dan!
No. I meant: Are museum exhibits good subjects? I rarely go to
museums (unless you count industrial museums, too)
To me, yes, certainly they are. The American Museum of Natural
History being a prime example. They have everything.
http://www.amnh.org/
Tried to find my way to some exhibits, but to no avail :(
I'll take your word for it, though.
Apart from not taking the shot: Higher ISO, shorter focal length.
Yes, higher ISO is good, I use 800-1600 a lot, but sometimes you need
high ISO and wide aperture. How would shorter focal length help?
Camera shake is less visible with a wide angle lens.



Handheld. No SR. Canon 5D with Flektogon 20/2.8, probably around 1/10s.
carrying one next time. I do have lots of zoo shots and general
photography shots at wide aperture and high ISO, but not online.
Me neither.



Sigma 18-125, f/6.7, ISO 200, 1/180, *ist DS



Pentax DFA 100/2.8, wide open. I think ISO 400/800.
Your industrial shots are great.
Thanks. Best I could find when discussing museums. :-/
Got that right! If we all thought the same, how many lens choices
would there be?
I don't know, but at least I'd get the lens I want, then :D

Cheers
Jens

--

'Well, 'Zooming with your feet' is usually a stupid thing as zoom rings are designed for hands.' (Me, 2006)
My Homepage: http://www.JensRoesner.de
 
Try and find a post where a Pentax/Tamron 18-250 owner is disappointed with it.

Ignore the non-owners who "know" that a zoom greater than 3:1 can't possibly be any good - those days are over.

This way you won't miss a shot, because you are changing (or dropping) a lens, or you didn't bring it along on that outing - or cleaning the sensor.

--
Mike . Sydney, Australia
http://www.pbase.com/mikeaus/galleries
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b356/MikeAus/?
 
My Tamron
70-300mm Di is equivalent to the Quantaray you're considering, and it
does not stand up well at all to the 55-300mm.
Correction, it appears the Quantaray is the predecessor of my Tamron AF70-> 300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro. It has different coatings and a bigger problem with > purple fringing
I have owned the Quantaray then returned it for the Tamron from another camera shop, they are one and the same lens IMO right down to the coatings, the Quantaray is a DI model. Theres lots of confusion even at Ritz the sales person said it was a Sigma, now we all know better than that (Ritz changed it a lot). But my copies of the Quantaray and Tamron did everything the same. Both are great buys and if you buy the Quantaray new you are getting the up to date model. So get which ever you can get at the lowest price. Now I must say I took the Tamron back got a Sigma 70-300mm APO and still was not 100% happy and now have a Pentax 55-300mm its all I can ask for from such a price and consumer lens I am very pleased.

--
jamesm007

http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z77/jamesm700/
 
Some examples. JPEGs with minimal processing in CS3.









Third ones a raw conversion.

You get what you put in with this lens imho. Learn to make it work for you.
--
http://www.flickr.com/mannydee
 
This way you won't miss a shot, because you are changing (or
dropping) a lens, or you didn't bring it along on that outing - or
cleaning the sensor.
Mike, I agree with this.

I have the Pentax 10-17 fisheye, the 18-55, the 50mm/1.4 and the 55-300. They are all good lenses, and cover the whole range. However, I miss too many good opportunities because the real world just doesn't stop to wait for me to change lenses. The 18-50 would be great to use on a travel shoot where you never know what is going to be around the corner. I posted separately a few days ago asking about the 18-50 quality, and if I was going to Europe it would be the first thing I would get. You are rarely going to need the extra length of the 55-300 if you have the 18-250 in the bag, so that one could stay at home. I would probably take the fisheye as well for those extreme wide angle shots. With a 1.5 crop factor, it's more like a very wide angle than a true fisheye anyway.

I love the 50/1.4, but I'm not sure how useful it would be on a travel expedition. But it's small, so I would probably take it anyway. If you don't have it already, I'm not sure I would go out and get one just for this trip.

So, the 10-17 or 12-24 and the 18-250 would get my vote.
 
If you want to take pics in a museum fast glass is a must. Most museums that allow photography do NOT allow flash photography. I would recomend taking at least one piece of fast glass so you can get hose shots that would be impossible otherwise.

Ohh and one tip. If you really want to take a photo in an area where there is no photography allowed, just wait, wait for that group of camera carrying Japanese tourists. When their flashes start firing snap away and you won't be noticed ;)



JJH
 
You get what you put in with this lens imho. Learn to make it work
for you.
--
Apart from the "purple" - I never put that in - you can only work within the limitations your given, my own Tamron 70-300 had quite severe ones !!

My point about the DA 55-300 is that you don't have to "learn to make it work for you", even if you have the choice, Pentax have done the hard work for us & produce the best consumer Tele now available.

simon

--
http://www.landscapephotographyuk.com/

North Wales photographs - Snowdonia & Anglesey
 

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