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Best D300 Settings for Sports Photography?

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Michael Jardine

Michael Jardine

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I'm new to sports photography. I went out the other day to shoot a Lacrosse game (fast-moving, lots of passing so you have to jump from one player to the next; also must have zoom because of shots on goal from distance)

Anyhow, I had a problem getting critical focus on some of the moving players. Part of it was because there were multiple players in the picture, which means you would have to use spot focus, rather than adaptive 3D. But Once I've "locked on" or identified the player I want to keep focus on, is there a way to keep the focus on that person, as I either pan the camera, or zoom, or both?

FWIW, my 'settings' for Sports photography are:
NEF12
Adobe RGB
ISO sensitivity ON, 400
Min Shutter 1/125 sec
Dynamic AF 9 points
Focus Tracking with Lock On: Normal
AF Point Selection: 51

Any help from you 'action photography' maestro's would be greatly appreciated. Also, any comments on the two events I've taken so far, also welcome - but please understand I'm new to this!

http://qamera.smugmug.com/Sports/472435

--
Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

 
IMHO the biggest thing you can do is to use AF-ON for focus lock and the shutter only for release.

You acquire the target, hit AF-ON and keep it depressed. W/ AF-C, you can track the subject and the camera will continuously update its focus.

I would also turn off the Focus Lock On.

Give Single Focus Area another try, too. I haven't been a big fan of the Dynamic modes for sports w/ lots of bodies like basketball, LAX, etc. For a big object like a racecar, it probably does very well.

Also, what focus sensors are you using? I'd try to stay w/ the center one, or one off center in order to use one of the 15 cross-hatch sensors.

I think you're going to need shutter speeds in the 1/400-500 range as a min.

--
Chris
 
Thank for the reply. A couple of questions...
Wrateman said:
IMHO the biggest thing you can do is to use AF-ON for focus lock and
the shutter only for release.

You acquire the target, hit AF-ON and keep it depressed. W/ AF-C,
you can track the subject and the camera will continuously update its
focus.

I would also turn off the Focus Lock On.

Give Single Focus Area another try, too. I haven't been a big fan of
the Dynamic modes for sports w/ lots of bodies like basketball, LAX,
etc. For a big object like a racecar, it probably does very well.

Also, what focus sensors are you using? I'd try to stay w/ the
center one, or one off center in order to use one of the 15
cross-hatch sensors.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by the 15 cross-hatch sensors? I intuitively like to place the subect off-center, partly for aesthetic reasons and partly because he is usually either being chased by other people, or he's shooting on goal.
Wrateman said:
I think you're going to need shutter speeds in the 1/400-500 range as
a min.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's ideal. But I've got VR on my 70-200 and also use a monopod.
Wrateman said:
--
Chris
Click to expand...
--
Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

 
Michael Jardine said:
Wrateman said:
Also, what focus sensors are you using? I'd try to stay w/ the
center one, or one off center in order to use one of the 15
cross-hatch sensors.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by the 15 cross-hatch sensors? I intuitively like
to place the subect off-center, partly for aesthetic reasons and
partly because he is usually either being chased by other people, or
he's shooting on goal.
Click to expand...
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
You have 15 cross-hatch sensors...clustered around the center one. I think the DPR preview has a pic...these are more accurate as they can determine contrast both vertically & horizontally. Like you, I like to move the subject off center a bit, especially shooting portrait mode I like to go one off center for their face.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
I think you're going to need shutter speeds in the 1/400-500 range as
a min.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's ideal. But I've got VR on my 70-200 and also use a monopod.
Click to expand...
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
I would turn VR off...at these shutter speeds it's not necessary. By the time you wait for VR to 'freeze' you'll miss the shot. I bought a mono w/ my 70-200 as well, but honestly, unless you have physical limitations, I think you'll be OK using the 70-200 w/out, it gives you much more flexibility. I'm 5' 8" 150 lbs, so not a huge hulk and I was able to shoot entire games w/ it w/ no problem. I am using it w/ my 120-300 tho'... :-)
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
--
Chris
Click to expand...
--
Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

Click to expand...
--
Chris
 
Michael Jardine said:
I'm new to sports photography. I went out the other day to shoot a
Lacrosse game (fast-moving, lots of passing so you have to jump from
one player to the next; also must have zoom because of shots on goal
from distance)

Anyhow, I had a problem getting critical focus on some of the moving
players. Part of it was because there were multiple players in the
picture, which means you would have to use spot focus, rather than
adaptive 3D. But Once I've "locked on" or identified the player I
want to keep focus on, is there a way to keep the focus on that
person, as I either pan the camera, or zoom, or both?

FWIW, my 'settings' for Sports photography are:
NEF12
Adobe RGB
ISO sensitivity ON, 400
Min Shutter 1/125 sec
Dynamic AF 9 points
Focus Tracking with Lock On: Normal
AF Point Selection: 51

Any help from you 'action photography' maestro's would be greatly
appreciated. Also, any comments on the two events I've taken so far,
also welcome - but please understand I'm new to this!
Click to expand...
Were you always shooting at 1/125? I would like to keep the shutter higher. I would normally shoot Aperture Priority(f4 or 3.2) and let my shutter fall where it may. But I would raise the ISO if it went down towards 1/125.

I also might try Dynamic 21 points, as the players seem to be moving erratically sometimes(up & down).

Mike
 
Well, I like to show the motion, not stop it. It's a bit hit-or-miss, but here are some examples of a few that have turned out nice, at least to my eye.

1/50 at 255mm (35mm-equiv)



1/30 Sec at 67mm



1/25 sec at 67mm



1/30 sec at 57mm



--
Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

 
There was a thread about this subject not to long ago. Maybe that person will repost/link that same thread?
 
Chris,
Thanks again for the comments. A couple of questions:
Wrateman said:
IMHO the biggest thing you can do is to use AF-ON for focus lock and
the shutter only for release.

You acquire the target, hit AF-ON and keep it depressed. W/ AF-C,
you can track the subject and the camera will continuously update its
focus.
Click to expand...
What is the advantage of using AF-ON, as opposed to keeping the shutter release depressed half-way?
Wrateman said:
I would also turn off the Focus Lock On.
Click to expand...
I don't understand what you mean by this. It seems that if you have it set to Focus Lock, then you are defeating the purpose of Predictive Focus Tracking?
Wrateman said:
Give Single Focus Area another try, too. I haven't been a big fan of
the Dynamic modes for sports w/ lots of bodies like basketball, LAX,
etc. For a big object like a racecar, it probably does very well.
Click to expand...
Will both Single Focus Area, and Dynamic Focus mode, work the same under AF-C, once I've "acquired" the target?
Wrateman said:
Also, what focus sensors are you using? I'd try to stay w/ the
center one, or one off center in order to use one of the 15
cross-hatch sensors.
Click to expand...
I can't find any mention of the cross-hair sensors. But it does seem easier to move the AF point selection to 11 rather than 51 (custom settings a8)
Wrateman said:
I think you're going to need shutter speeds in the 1/400-500 range as
a min.

--
Chris
Click to expand...
--
Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

 
It depends on the effect that you are looking for. If you want to freeze the action hten you will need higher shutter speeds (at least 1/500). Most of those shots look a little soft if you look at them at a larger size. You do not need VR but could keep it on - your option. I like to shoot with it on. Try to isolate and track one player rather than going all over the field.
--
Laslo
http://www.digitalexpressionsphotography.com
 
I am referring the the ones you linked up in SmugMug where the shutter speeds were 1/125 - 1/350. It does not seem to me you were going after a blurred effect there and if you did not, you need to get your shutter speed higher. With the D300 you can increase your ISO and get higher shutter speeds. Also try to shoot some at F2.8. The VR is sharp wide open. You will probably get less keepers due to DOF but nice isolation.
--
Laslo
http://www.digitalexpressionsphotography.com
 
Got a few tonight. Higher shutter speeds, higher ISO, wider aperture. Saturation was set to 2; I think it's too strong due to harsh lighting. Also probably could have used the lens hood. Just shot in JPG. No PP except for cropping. Shooting mostly AF-C to get predictive focus tracking; mostly single-point but some Dynamic AF.

However, my personal favorite is the last one - which shows the unique cradling motion of the lacrosse stick
:-)

1/250, ISO 1250, f/2.8



1/320, ISO 2000, f/2.8



1/250, ISO 2200, f/2.8



1/250, ISO 1800, f/2.8



1/80, ISO 500, f/2.8



--
Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

 
Michael Jardine said:
Wrateman said:
I think you're going to need shutter speeds in the 1/400-500 range as
a min.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's ideal. But I've got VR on my 70-200 and also use a monopod.
Click to expand...
I believe you need the faster shutter speed to freeze the subject's motion, not to avoid camera blur. VR will not slow down your subject...

--
Regards,

Rafael

http://www.pbase.com/aviles
-----------------------------------------

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.” M. Proust
 
Michael Jardine said:
What is the advantage of using AF-ON, as opposed to keeping the
shutter release depressed half-way?
Click to expand...
Here's a relevant article found over at Nikonians ( http://www.nikonians.org/nikon/d200_multi-cam_af/ ) describing the D200's autofocus system. Page 2, 4th paragraph says:

"But... photographers do not let the shutter release button start the autofocus either, since the focus would change every time the shutter button is pressed. They set Custom Setting a6 so the autofocus does not even activate until the AF-ON button is pressed. They then use the AF-ON button for their autofocus, and the shutter button to take the picture. They separate the two functions instead of using the shutter button for both."

So the idea is to keep your thumb (or where ever that button is on your D300) pressed to track your target, and release shutter when ready. You separate the focus and shutter release.

The article is specific to D200, but the basics should also apply to D300.
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
I would also turn off the Focus Lock On.
Click to expand...
I don't understand what you mean by this. It seems that if you have
it set to Focus Lock, then you are defeating the purpose of
Predictive Focus Tracking?
Click to expand...
It may be that you don't want your camera to erroneously track the wrong target. You can try both ways and see what works best.
Michael Jardine said:
Michael Jardine said:
Give Single Focus Area another try, too. I haven't been a big fan of
the Dynamic modes for sports w/ lots of bodies like basketball, LAX,
etc. For a big object like a racecar, it probably does very well.
Click to expand...
Will both Single Focus Area, and Dynamic Focus mode, work the same
under AF-C, once I've "acquired" the target?
Click to expand...
With single focus, you'll need to keep your target on that single focal point. With dynamic, your subject can be anywhere in that group. I may be mistaken since I don't have a D300, and it being a more advanced camera (in every way, it seems), it might work differently than a D200. And these settings work best in AF-C.
 
Use shutter priority and set it at 250 or higher and just play with what you think looks good. memory cards erase.
--
Gary (aka eggburt)

 
RafaelD7 said:
Michael Jardine said:
Wrateman said:
I think you're going to need shutter speeds in the 1/400-500 range as
a min.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's ideal. But I've got VR on my 70-200 and also use a monopod.
Click to expand...
I believe you need the faster shutter speed to freeze the subject's
motion, not to avoid camera blur. VR will not slow down your
subject...
Click to expand...
That might be the case if I was not panning. With panning, the subject is essentially stationary, at least relative to camera shake at 200mm.

Michael
http://www.Qamera.com
http://www.Qamera.smugmug.com

 
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