E-10 -why I won't replace with a D100, D60, D1x, 1d etc.

Jono Slack said:

I don't think that it's such a tough decision.

I owned both cameras for about 6 months,

It seemed to me

1. that although there were quality differences, they were hard to
pin down, and not very significant.

2. the extra features on the E10 were very nice, but apart from the
faster review time I never really took advantage of them

3. the write times on the E20 (about half as fast) don't sound that
bad, but turned into a really big issue:

Basically, the way that I work (Jaco has the same problem) - is
rather like Peter the girly photographer below - i.e. take a shot,
reframe, take another, change exposure, take another. Usually,
after taking 3 or 4 shots, I'd like to see them. If you assume a 5
second wait between each of a group of 4 shots, then at the end of
the sequence:

E10 wait - about 7 seconds
E20 wait - about 35 seconds

this is a BIG difference, and if you feel that you shoot like this
then I would thoroughly recommend the E10. Clearly the faster
review on the E20 is nice, but I never really found that too much
of a problem with the E10.

I recently traded in my E20, keeping the E10 (with 30,000 shots on
it).

Dunno if this helps, but fwiw.

kind regards
jono slack
http://www.slack.co.uk

--
Jono Slack
http://www.slack.co.uk

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Frank B said:

Jono,

Just curious; how much faster is the E-20 review? I just tested my
E-10 in Tiff and had the review image in about 1 second. Thanks.

Frank B

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Frank B said:

Terry,

For what it is worth I set my e-10 white balance at 6500 (or 5500)
and leave it there when I outside. This gives me consistent
results and I can correct in my image software when I need to.
Also, it does not "correct" for sunsets.

With respect to pixel mapping I believe the E-20 stores the mapping
in hard memory while the E-10 has to have battery power to store
it. The E-10 retains the mapping for about three minutes so you
can change batteries.

Frank B

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Terry Thorn said:

Frank B said:

Jono,

Just curious; how much faster is the E-20 review? I just tested my
E-10 in Tiff and had the review image in about 1 second. Thanks.

Frank B

Click to expand...

One second? Is that from record review right after the shot is
taken or is that from reviewing the shot by double-pushing the LCD
button? From handling both cameras, the E-20 does bring the image
up on the LCD faster but I didn't time them. I believe both of them
took longer than 1 second though. Also, the E-20 zooms the image up
faster and doesn't use .5 increments like the E-10 does. The E-20
also scrolls the image much more quickly too. When you want to move
to the next view, the E-20 goes back to normal size in one turn of
the control knob whereas the E-10 makes you go all the way back
through the entire zoom range 1x at a time.

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Frank B said:

Terry,

It is from having Rec View on the menu turned on to Automatic. It
takes about 1 second (maybe 2) in tiff to show the picture I just
took while the processing continues (forever ). I don't know
how it does this, but I assume it has processed the image and just
not yet saved it to the card. I can't do anything with the image
such as zoom or look at the histogram. For that I have to wait
until the photo is saved and double click to get into record mode.

Frank B

Click to expand...

Terry Thorn said:

Frank B said:

Terry,

For what it is worth I set my e-10 white balance at 6500 (or 5500)
and leave it there when I outside. This gives me consistent
results and I can correct in my image software when I need to.
Also, it does not "correct" for sunsets.

With respect to pixel mapping I believe the E-20 stores the mapping
in hard memory while the E-10 has to have battery power to store
it. The E-10 retains the mapping for about three minutes so you
can change batteries.

Frank B

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Terry Thorn said:

Frank B said:

Terry,

It is from having Rec View on the menu turned on to Automatic. It
takes about 1 second (maybe 2) in tiff to show the picture I just
took while the processing continues (forever ). I don't know
how it does this, but I assume it has processed the image and just
not yet saved it to the card. I can't do anything with the image
such as zoom or look at the histogram. For that I have to wait
until the photo is saved and double click to get into record mode.

Frank B

Click to expand...

OK, both cameras work exactly the same in this regard but if you
want to really examine your images and zoom in on the details, the
E-20 is much better at it.

Click to expand...

Peter v.d. Bijl said:

I only reached the "mighty stratospheric level of photographic
excellence and professionalism" AFTER I had bought my E-10 and as a
direct result of using it. I have simply outgrown my equipment, and
need better frame to frame speed & focusing, and better DOF.

I certainly didn't intend in any way to ridicule amateur
photography as you seem to think, I just wanted to point out that
those of us who earn money with photography (professionals)
sometimes have different needs than somebody who's in photography
for the fun of it (amateurs). Please note that I use the terms
"professionals" and "amateurs" in the original meaning, where
somebody is deemed a professional when they get paid for what they
do. It doesn't necessarily make them better photographers than
amateurs.

--
---------------------------------
Peter

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George Law said:

Frank,

I concur whole-heartedly.

Also, the image quality that I get my E-10 is very good to say the
least. I get consistantly wonderful 10 x 15 prints from my local
lab, so I know the that 11 x 14 would be great (if their machine
would only go 11" wide) and I believe that 16 x 20 is not out of
the rhelm of the E-10.

It will be some time before I consider up grading my digital
hardware as my E-10 affords me all the capability that my business
requires at this time and the foreseeable future.

George

George and Frank, I agree as well. As an E-20 owner, I continue to be amazed at the build quality, superb lens, and excellent ergonomics of the E-series Olympus cameras! I was a Nikon 35mm man for decades, but was too impressed by the quality of the E10/20 to pass it up. BTW, I did make a 16x20 using the E-10, and the sharpness, detail, and overall quality of the print was exceptional.

Click to expand...

Frank B said:

I own an E-10 and take mostly scenic and still photos in relatively
decent light.. Therefore, the somewhat slow write times and low
light focusing issues are simply not a problem for me. After,
considering the purchase of an interchangeable lens digital SLR
(IDSLR) I’m pretty sure I will keep my E-10 and not buy a Canon 1D,
Canon D60, Fuji S2, Nikon D1x, Sigma or Nikon D100. Following are
my reasons which apply to the E-20 as well :

DUST - I have had my E-10 for more than a year and there is no sign
of dust on the CCD. I do not want a camera where I have to worry
each time I clean the dust that I might damage the CCD or color
filter. Despite protestations to the contrary by some owners of
IDSLRs there are numerous posts on each IDSLR forum citing
problems with dust. Maybe, Sigma has licked this problem, we will
see.

LEAF SHUTTER - The leaf shutter allows a flash synch speed of up
to 1/640 of a second with the built in flash. This means you can
use fill in flash at higher shutter speeds with the built in flash.
Also, it contributes to the dust free nature of the E-10, as high
speed focal plane shutters create dust.

DEPTH OF FIELD - The depth of field of the E-10 is about 2.6 times
that of a IDSLR. This means that at the same 35mm focal length
equivalent and the same aperture you always will get considerably
more depth of field with the E-10. Thus for a given depth of field
you can use a larger aperture with the E-10 and therefore a faster
shutter speed to avoid blurring due to camera shake. F5.6 on the
E-10 has approximately the same depth of field as a 35mm at f22. A
typical IDSLR at f5.6 would have approximately the same depth of
field as a 35mm at f10. Even at f2 the E-10 has approximately the
same depth of field as a 35mm at f8. Depth of field is not
something you can manufacture with image software. You can use
image software to blur portions of a photo when that result is
desired.

VIBRATION FREE - There is no mirror slap to create vibration.
Also, a leaf shutter vibrates less than a focal plane shutter. The
result is that you can take a photo at slow shutter speeds with
less blurring then with IDSLRs.

QUIET - The E-10 is quieter than IDSLRS as it does not have a
mirror slapping when you take a photo. This is a real advantage
when taking photos where there is a desire for quiet (e.g.
theaters, ceremonies, etc).

MULTI ANGLE LCD PREVIEW - This makes it much easier to take candid
photos of people. You can hold the E-10 at waist level and appear
to be fiddling with it and take a picture without the subject
knowing. The quietness of the E-10 is also a help. The LCD can
make it much easier to take photos from a low position or holding
the camera over your head. To have a multi angle LCD with preview
on an SLR is a real bonus. It can also help in composing your
photo as you see a miniature of your photo with two eyes.

PORTABLE QUALITY - The E-10 is a beautifully built camera with
superb ergonomics. Although, it is no lightweight when you
consider its wonderful build quality, fast F2:2.4 zoom lens and
built in flash it is quite light. I pack mine on my belt in a
holster camera bag. I can’t compare the ergonomics to the IDSLRs
as I have not used them. However, I have owned numerous 35mm SLRs
(including a Canon EOS1) and medium format cameras (Hasselblad,
Pentax 645) and the E-10 has the best ergonomics of any camera I
have owned.

LENSES - Where else can you get a sharp f2-2.4 35 to 140 zoom lens.
Where else can you buy extra lenses for about $1000 which will give
you a range from 28mm to 600mm at f2 to f2.8 .

PIXEL MAPPING - If you get a stuck pixel you don’t have to send it
in for repair. Just run pixel mapping.

Frank B

Click to expand...

T.Trent said:

Frank B said:

I own an E-10 and take mostly scenic and still photos in relatively
decent light.. Therefore, the somewhat slow write times and low
light focusing issues are simply not a problem for me. After,
considering the purchase of an interchangeable lens digital SLR
(IDSLR) I’m pretty sure I will keep my E-10 and not buy a Canon 1D,
Canon D60, Fuji S2, Nikon D1x, Sigma or Nikon D100. Following are
my reasons which apply to the E-20 as well :

DUST - I have had my E-10 for more than a year and there is no sign
of dust on the CCD. I do not want a camera where I have to worry
each time I clean the dust that I might damage the CCD or color
filter. Despite protestations to the contrary by some owners of
IDSLRs there are numerous posts on each IDSLR forum citing
problems with dust. Maybe, Sigma has licked this problem, we will
see.

LEAF SHUTTER - The leaf shutter allows a flash synch speed of up
to 1/640 of a second with the built in flash. This means you can
use fill in flash at higher shutter speeds with the built in flash.
Also, it contributes to the dust free nature of the E-10, as high
speed focal plane shutters create dust.

DEPTH OF FIELD - The depth of field of the E-10 is about 2.6 times
that of a IDSLR. This means that at the same 35mm focal length
equivalent and the same aperture you always will get considerably
more depth of field with the E-10. Thus for a given depth of field
you can use a larger aperture with the E-10 and therefore a faster
shutter speed to avoid blurring due to camera shake. F5.6 on the
E-10 has approximately the same depth of field as a 35mm at f22. A
typical IDSLR at f5.6 would have approximately the same depth of
field as a 35mm at f10. Even at f2 the E-10 has approximately the
same depth of field as a 35mm at f8. Depth of field is not
something you can manufacture with image software. You can use
image software to blur portions of a photo when that result is
desired.

VIBRATION FREE - There is no mirror slap to create vibration.
Also, a leaf shutter vibrates less than a focal plane shutter. The
result is that you can take a photo at slow shutter speeds with
less blurring then with IDSLRs.

QUIET - The E-10 is quieter than IDSLRS as it does not have a
mirror slapping when you take a photo. This is a real advantage
when taking photos where there is a desire for quiet (e.g.
theaters, ceremonies, etc).

MULTI ANGLE LCD PREVIEW - This makes it much easier to take candid
photos of people. You can hold the E-10 at waist level and appear
to be fiddling with it and take a picture without the subject
knowing. The quietness of the E-10 is also a help. The LCD can
make it much easier to take photos from a low position or holding
the camera over your head. To have a multi angle LCD with preview
on an SLR is a real bonus. It can also help in composing your
photo as you see a miniature of your photo with two eyes.

PORTABLE QUALITY - The E-10 is a beautifully built camera with
superb ergonomics. Although, it is no lightweight when you
consider its wonderful build quality, fast F2:2.4 zoom lens and
built in flash it is quite light. I pack mine on my belt in a
holster camera bag. I can’t compare the ergonomics to the IDSLRs
as I have not used them. However, I have owned numerous 35mm SLRs
(including a Canon EOS1) and medium format cameras (Hasselblad,
Pentax 645) and the E-10 has the best ergonomics of any camera I
have owned.

LENSES - Where else can you get a sharp f2-2.4 35 to 140 zoom lens.
Where else can you buy extra lenses for about $1000 which will give
you a range from 28mm to 600mm at f2 to f2.8 .

PIXEL MAPPING - If you get a stuck pixel you don’t have to send it
in for repair. Just run pixel mapping.

Frank B

Click to expand...

Bravo........ Frank for what you wrote about the Olympus E-10, you
could have not wrote this any better this is the best camera that I
own and the best camera that Olympus has ever made not even Canon.
Thank You

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T.Trent said:

T.Trent said:

Frank B

Click to expand...

Bravo........ Frank for what you wrote about the Olympus E-10

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