Glassware

Jarrell, You're a creative person, I'd be interested to see what you could do with your 990 around the housework to make it fun! Maybe a vacuum cleaner's eye view of the room? Ultra wide angle? Hmmmmm.....
I do use a number of other El Cheapo bit and peices, does this
qualify me to become a member??? :-)

The setup I was using tonight to photograph a cactus flower looked
pretty good (and cheap!)...

LOL

Michael Offe,
South Australia.
iso, the lighting you achieved is top notch! What is printers
vellum (sp?)? Its feathering the hard shadows out very well.
Doesn't the El Cheapo Dim Bulb Camera Club bulb/refector work great
for still lifes!
Thanks! These kind words coming from you have MADE MY DAY!!

Vellum is a printer paper (typically used in Computer Aided
Drafting, and ole time drafting) which is more transparent than
typical Bond paper. It's advantages are that it's more durable for
archival purposes and also reproduces w/ blueline equipment. I've
got a few rolls of 36" wide that I'll be putting to good use! My
next step is to roll a bunch of it out as a seamless backdrop for
underneath/behind subject.

And yes.....I'm a committed El Cheapo Dim Bulb member now. With
digital cameras, nice white balance control and immediate feedback
the possibilities are endless!

Thanks again for your kind words, helpful advice and inspiration!
--
CP5000, OM-2n
 
I just had a Lexar 128Mb 12x go bad after only one use. It read fine in the reader, then I put it in the camera (990) and nothing, it said card could not be read to. It took about 2 weeks, but Lexar did send me a new one, which looks more "modern" even though the one that failed was only a month old. First and only problem to date!
Michael Offe.
YIKES! I wish you the best of luck Michael, as I'm looking forward
to seeing your work as well!

Do you regularly swap your CF cards in/out (using a alternate CF
reader). I wonder how sensitive these guys are to static
electricity. On this side of the world it's cold, dry and the ESD
demons are out in full force! It takes around 3,000 volts to feel a
static shock, I think around 10,000 volts to see it! I regularly
get zapped here this time of year!

Any thots from long time CF card users bout their sensitivity to
Electro Static Discharge?
--
CP5000, OM-2n
 
Oh yes. Ellery what is the material under and behind the glass?
It looks like it has a texture. Is that in the material or added
later?
Jarrell
Wow! Very nice Ellery! As Jarrell had mentioned....that is some interesting backdrop you used...almost looks like felt, what is it? I'm in a search for some "poor-man's" backdrop material.--CP5000, OM-2n
 
Pictures were taken on my back patio deck, with only ambient sunlight.

Background is sheet of black construction paper that the mineature vases sit upon, and which is rolled-up, behind, to form a background, as well.

The shades of gray are caused by variations of the light across the black paper surface (controlled by adjusting the table to catch the sun from different angles).
 
Pictures were taken on my back patio deck, with only ambient sunlight.
Background is sheet of black construction paper that the mineature
vases sit upon, and which is rolled-up, behind, to form a
background, as well.
The shades of gray are caused by variations of the light across the
black paper surface (controlled by adjusting the table to catch the
sun from different angles).
Sweet! Initially I thought you meant roofing paper/felt (construction) but I suspect you mean just normal run of the mill black construction paper from an art supply dealer. I guess the roofing paper could be used as well, it's semi rigid, relatively inexpensive, available in wide widths and lengths but can smell a bit nasty and get your hands/subjects marked w/ a little tar if overhandled.--CP5000, OM-2n
 
My younger son is in 3rd-grade. A pack of colored construction paper is always around the house.
Background is sheet of black construction paper
Sweet! Initially I thought you meant roofing paper/felt
(construction) but I suspect you mean just normal run of the mill
black construction paper from an art supply dealer. I guess the
roofing paper could be used as well, it's semi rigid, relatively
inexpensive, available in wide widths and lengths but can smell a
bit nasty and get your hands/subjects marked w/ a little tar if
overhandled.
--
CP5000, OM-2n
 
Well darn. The patio. Ellery you're going to walk off with the Dim Bulb Camera Club Award for the cheapest lighting system if you're not careful. Come to think of it, I've seen this done when using the subtractive instead of the additive lighting method. That is, you'll place a black card on one side or more of the subject like this,



to take light away when you can't or don't for some reason want to Add light.

Note the little diagram at the bottom. It's essentially the same light setup I use and also Dave.

Note, this is NOT my picture, but rather a Kodak ad for pro film, shot with Nikon 35mm. In this picture the photographer replaced the two white reflectors on either side of the table with black ones. One flash in front is fired into a 42 inch umbrella and two flashes are fired into umbrellas to overexpose the white background for a "hi key" effect. A silver reflector is lying on the table in front of the model.

For your information, this particular photographer will only hire models that have perfectly flawless complexions. I didn't want to be a model anyway!
 
I had a 48MB Lexar CF card go bad once after 6 months of use. One day it just started acting funny-first I could read/write to it in my camera, but not in my FotoShow, then after more experimenting it just stopped working completely. Lexar replaced it without too much hassle. They didn't speculate on what went wrong.

I have a SmartMedia card from a few years ago that I would love to rescue (we were at Disney with the kids during Christmas). I'm going to have to give that utility a try.

John
I just had a Lexar 128Mb 12x go bad after only one use. It read
fine in the reader, then I put it in the camera (990) and nothing,
it said card could not be read to. It took about 2 weeks, but
Lexar did send me a new one, which looks more "modern" even though
the one that failed was only a month old. First and only problem
to date!
 
I hope you can rescue it, John. The only time I've had this problem, (knock on wood) was on a trip to Callaway Gardens one night to do the Christmas lights thing. We rode in an open, trolley type car and it's was cool and misting rain. I had my first digital camera with me, a little Fuji. For some reason, after that night I never could get the card to work. I kept getting the message that the card needed formatting, even though it was full of pictures. I guess they're not fool proof.
Jarrell
I have a SmartMedia card from a few years ago that I would love to
rescue (we were at Disney with the kids during Christmas). I'm
going to have to give that utility a try.

John
I just had a Lexar 128Mb 12x go bad after only one use. It read
fine in the reader, then I put it in the camera (990) and nothing,
it said card could not be read to. It took about 2 weeks, but
Lexar did send me a new one, which looks more "modern" even though
the one that failed was only a month old. First and only problem
to date!
 
Jarrell, You're a creative person, I'd be interested to see what
you could do with your 990 around the housework to make it fun!
Maybe a vacuum cleaner's eye view of the room? Ultra wide angle?
Hmmmmm.....
Were you thinking of a Macro of a dirty carpet? :-)

LOL

Michael Offe,
South Australia.
 
I just posted a similar reply on to another thread. I have found that if I insert a card in my Sandisk reader 'BEFORE' turning the PC (Pentium4/WinXP) on, it sometimes doesn't want to work right. And on one occasion, it corrupted the file headers to a point they were unreadable. I was in a product shoot and could simply retake them so I didn't work very hard at recovery. However, I do try to always turn the PC on before inserting a card in the reader. HTH. PatiO. (The member, not the 'fun' place in the back garden. : )
 
Thanks for the tip, Patio. That could be whats happening.
I just posted a similar reply on to another thread. I have found
that if I insert a card in my Sandisk reader 'BEFORE' turning the
PC (Pentium4/WinXP) on, it sometimes doesn't want to work right.
And on one occasion, it corrupted the file headers to a point they
were unreadable. I was in a product shoot and could simply retake
them so I didn't work very hard at recovery. However, I do try to
always turn the PC on before inserting a card in the reader. HTH.
PatiO. (The member, not the 'fun' place in the back garden. : )
 
You turn your PC off?? :-)

= Ed =
I just posted a similar reply on to another thread. I have found
that if I insert a card in my Sandisk reader 'BEFORE' turning the
PC (Pentium4/WinXP) on, it sometimes doesn't want to work right.
And on one occasion, it corrupted the file headers to a point they
were unreadable. I was in a product shoot and could simply retake
them so I didn't work very hard at recovery. However, I do try to
always turn the PC on before inserting a card in the reader. HTH.
PatiO. (The member, not the 'fun' place in the back garden. : )
-- = Ed Rotberg ='A waist is a terrible thing to mind'
 
If this was told -sorry for repeating but how are you doing the frame around the photos?
char
 
Hi Char,

I do it in Photoshop. I do it so much, I've gotten quick with it. If the image is 8x10 and a bit on the dark in tone, I make a "new" image and leave it white in color and 8.25x10.25 inches at the same resolution the photo is. I then move the picture over on that white background and adjust it til it's centered. I then make another "new" file, this time 11x14 inches, same resolution but I color sample somewhere in the photo on a pleasing dark tone and I use the paintbucket to tone the 11x14 file. I then move the photo with its white border (you have to flatten before moving) onto the larger file and that's it. You wind up with something like this.



It's a little extra trouble, but usually it's worth it. I do it by hand, but there are actions around for Photoshop that automate the process or you can record your own.
If this was told -sorry for repeating but how are you doing the
frame around the photos?
char
 
Hi Char,
I do it in Photoshop. I do it so much, I've gotten quick with it.
If the image is 8x10 and a bit on the dark in tone, I make a "new"
image and leave it white in color and 8.25x10.25 inches at the same
resolution the photo is. I then move the picture over on that
white background and adjust it til it's centered. I then make
another "new" file, this time 11x14 inches, same resolution but I
color sample somewhere in the photo on a pleasing dark tone and I
use the paintbucket to tone the 11x14 file. I then move the photo
with its white border (you have to flatten before moving) onto the
larger file and that's it. You wind up with something like this.
Lol, I can't believe I'm even considering offering suggestions to one of the masters of craft but here goes...

Jarrell, have you tried your technique for frames by using the "Canvas Size" feature instead. You don't have to create new images and do any flatten work, also the original image is perfectly centered within the new image dimensions (if you increase the width and height by the same amount).

Here are my steps.

lets say image is 500x375pixels (for email, and posts here for instance).

Duplicate layer and discard old background layer.
Create a new empty layer and place it underneath the image layer.

Go to Image/Canvas size and increase canvas size to 520x395 lets say. (20 pixel frame)
The image layer wil now have transparency on the extra canvas dimensions.

Paint bucket fill the newly created empty layer underneath and voila! a perfectly centered frame border around your image.
--CP5000, OM-2n
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top