Soft focus on S2 - image included

Hi everyone,

I sincerely hope someone can help me cause this soft focus problem is driving me out of my MIND!!

The camera is an S2 pro. The lense is a Tamron 28-105 f2.8 lense. I turned off the close subject priority and the camera was in focus mode. The center is the focus area. This was shot at f2.8, ISO 400. The camera was sent in about 6 months ago for the black screen of death and ever since then, I've had this problem. I didn't notice it before... so not sure what could have happened but as I say, it is driving me mad.. I want CRISP action images and I am not getting them. Anyways, here is the image:

http://notredanesandre.com/Gallery/Herman/2006_1104AD_640

Thoughts, recommendations would be MUCH appreciated!!

Thanks,

Patti

Can you tell us the shutter speed?

EXIF data shows 1/750"
--
My friends call me Mark
z7590: I have a lot to learn...
Fuji s2 Pro: I have EVERYTHING to learn...
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/cyclefreak6_photos/

Oh right - it's not that then.

Anyone???

Can you post a larger sample, it's pretty hard to tell with that image. Also, are you sharpening in photoshop?

Tim

For a moving subject, I would use continuous focus and not single focus. Also, I'm sure that you know that 2.8 isnt going to allow the entire image to be in focus.

Tim

pattir7 said:

Hi everyone,

I sincerely hope someone can help me cause this soft focus problem
is driving me out of my MIND!!

The camera is an S2 pro. The lense is a Tamron 28-105 f2.8 lense.
I turned off the close subject priority and the camera was in
focus mode. The center is the focus area. This was shot at f2.8,
ISO 400. The camera was sent in about 6 months ago for the black
screen of death and ever since then, I've had this problem. I
didn't notice it before... so not sure what could have happened but
as I say, it is driving me mad.. I want CRISP action images and I
am not getting them. Anyways, here is the image:

http://notredanesandre.com/Gallery/Herman/2006_1104AD_640

Thoughts, recommendations would be MUCH appreciated!!

Thanks,

Patti

Click to expand...

I shot that same lens for a while but stopped using it due to softness. Edge to edge I found the lens had issues. Center was okay at f8 to about F16 I had never noticed it until I switched to digital. The lens is a little light on color saturation as well. I have switched to the 24-70 F2.8 Nikon Lens. The 2.8 is faster the colors are bette,r images are sharper/crisper. I think it may be more of a lens issue than a camera issue. Do you have any images with better outdoor lighting? I'm not seeing alot of shape/texture or contrast. I hope this is helping? Have you tried any other lenses?

Broncox said:

I shot that same lens for a while but stopped using it due to
softness. Edge to edge I found the lens had issues. Center was okay
at f8 to about F16 I had never noticed it until I switched to
digital. The lens is a little light on color saturation as well. I
have switched to the 24-70 F2.8 Nikon Lens. The 2.8 is faster the
colors are bette,r images are sharper/crisper. I think it may be
more of a lens issue than a camera issue. Do you have any images
with better outdoor lighting? I'm not seeing alot of shape/texture
or contrast. I hope this is helping? Have you tried any other
lenses?

Click to expand...

I might have thought it was a lense issue except I didn't have this problem before I sent the camera in for repair (black screen of death). I do have another lense, but it isn't as fast. I purposely shot this in not the best of light to 'challenge' the auto focus and it does fail my standards. I have since changed the sharpness from normal to hard and turned the [+] on. Photographing a black, moving target in not the best of light would probably challenge any camera I suppose...but I had hoped for better.

Well I wish I could have been more help. Good luck

1) The lens at f/2.8 will not perform at its best. Some of the softness is from shooting at f/2.8

2) Focusing on the center is a mistake. You want the head/eyes in focus. If you have focus on the horse's body, the shot will look out of focus.

3) You might check out the other thread here in the Fujifilm forum related to adjusting your own focus. It's possible that during your CCD fix, the cameras focus was changed slightly.

4) Wet cleaning the sensor will also remove any film on the sensor itself; I know my images got a lot sharper after my first wet cleaning. I theorize that condensation will put a film on the sensor over time.

Anthony

pattir7 said:

Hi everyone,

I sincerely hope someone can help me cause this soft focus problem
is driving me out of my MIND!!

The camera is an S2 pro. The lense is a Tamron 28-105 f2.8 lense.
I turned off the close subject priority and the camera was in
focus mode. The center is the focus area. This was shot at f2.8,
ISO 400. The camera was sent in about 6 months ago for the black
screen of death and ever since then, I've had this problem. I
didn't notice it before... so not sure what could have happened but
as I say, it is driving me mad.. I want CRISP action images and I
am not getting them. Anyways, here is the image:

http://notredanesandre.com/Gallery/Herman/2006_1104AD_640

Thoughts, recommendations would be MUCH appreciated!!

Thanks,

Patti

Click to expand...

--
check out my blog at http://anthonyonphotography.blogspot.com

To focus, I always focus on what I want to be perfectly in focus (in this case, the head...specifically the edge of the head) and while holding the button half down (to hold the focus), recompose and shoot. Sounds like a lot to do for an action photo, but I can do it pretty quickly.

I use the center for focus cause it actually is the only 'spot' that has a vertical and horizontal focus sensor. The rest are just vertical which does me no good on a vertical moving subject....

I am really not sure what else to do other than open up the camera and fiddling with it as I've already seen people's results from sending the camera to Fuji (it comes back the same). It is possible, perhaps even likely, that this lense just isn't sharp enough for me at f2.8 which is unfortunate because that is why I got this lense...to be ABLE to shoot at f2.8.

At f4 things clear up quite a bit... as you would expect with any lense...but that is 'cheating' to me...

Patti

I think that for an action photo, with a moving subject like this, by the time you recompose what was in focus will have moved out of focus, especially with the shallow depth of field at f/2.8.

I think that's why I thought you weren't focusing on the head.

You are correct to use the center sensor as the most sensitive.

However, here's what I suggest:

With the object traveling the way it is, you might actually want to use dynamic AF (that's the plus sign) with closest focusing priority active.

This turns on all the focus areas--and with the head closest to you, if it's in one of the focus areas, that's what will be in focus.

If however, you are confident in your ability to focus and recompose quickly enough, then your best bet IMHO is to switch to AF-C on the front of the camera, turn off closest focusing priority, turn off dynamic AF and just use the center sensor, which is the most sensitive.

Anthony

pattir7 said:

To focus, I always focus on what I want to be perfectly in focus
(in this case, the head...specifically the edge of the head) and
while holding the button half down (to hold the focus), recompose
and shoot. Sounds like a lot to do for an action photo, but I can
do it pretty quickly.

I use the center for focus cause it actually is the only 'spot'
that has a vertical and horizontal focus sensor. The rest are just
vertical which does me no good on a vertical moving subject....

I am really not sure what else to do other than open up the camera
and fiddling with it as I've already seen people's results from
sending the camera to Fuji (it comes back the same). It is
possible, perhaps even likely, that this lense just isn't sharp
enough for me at f2.8 which is unfortunate because that is why I
got this lense...to be ABLE to shoot at f2.8.

At f4 things clear up quite a bit... as you would expect with any
lense...but that is 'cheating' to me...

Patti

Click to expand...

--
check out my blog at http://anthonyonphotography.blogspot.com

Anthony said:

I think that for an action photo, with a moving subject like this,
by the time you recompose what was in focus will have moved out of
focus, especially with the shallow depth of field at f/2.8.

I think that's why I thought you weren't focusing on the head.

You are correct to use the center sensor as the most sensitive.

However, here's what I suggest:

With the object traveling the way it is, you might actually want to
use dynamic AF (that's the plus sign) with closest focusing
priority active.

This turns on all the focus areas--and with the head closest to
you, if it's in one of the focus areas, that's what will be in
focus.

If however, you are confident in your ability to focus and
recompose quickly enough, then your best bet IMHO is to switch to
AF-C on the front of the camera, turn off closest focusing
priority, turn off dynamic AF and just use the center sensor, which
is the most sensitive.

Anthony

Click to expand...

Thanks Anthony...you may be right. I may not be fast enough to focus in this manner. But I did have the camera in dynamic AF and closest focusing priority active before and was still not happy with the images I was getting (same moving subject). In fact, I'd say they were the same or worse. I have since turned dynamic AF back on and set the sharpness to hard....and will see if that makes a difference. Thing is, I saw someone else's photos taken of the same subject, at the same time (same lighting) with a D200 and the Nikon 70-200 f2.8 lense and I about fell over at the crispness of the images. So, is it the lense....or the camera... or both at fault here? Well, I suppose it could be the photographer too... but all photos were taken at f2.8 so how much could a photographer really influence the crispness of the subject (assuming we both know how to focus in general)?

This lack of sharpness is really driving me mad. Wish I knew someone with that lense so I could just try it and put an end to this guessing game... or, I suppose, if I knew someone with a D200 to toss this lense on and see if it's the same...that would answer the question too...

Patti

pattir7 said:

pattir7 wrote:
Thanks Anthony...you may be right. I may not be fast enough to
focus in this manner. But I did have the camera in dynamic AF and
closest focusing priority active before and was still not happy
with the images I was getting (same moving subject). In fact, I'd
say they were the same or worse. I have since turned dynamic AF
back on and set the sharpness to hard....and will see if that makes
a difference. Thing is, I saw someone else's photos taken of the
same subject, at the same time (same lighting) with a D200 and the
Nikon 70-200 f2.8 lense and I about fell over at the crispness of
the images. So, is it the lense....or the camera... or both at
fault here? Well, I suppose it could be the photographer too...
but all photos were taken at f2.8 so how much could a photographer
really influence the crispness of the subject (assuming we both
know how to focus in general)?

This lack of sharpness is really driving me mad. Wish I knew
someone with that lense so I could just try it and put an end to
this guessing game... or, I suppose, if I knew someone with a D200
to toss this lense on and see if it's the same...that would answer
the question too...

Patti

Click to expand...

There are several things going on here:

1. The Tamron 28-105 is not a very quick focusing lens that has to be driven by the camera focus motor (particualy compared with a Nikon 70-200 with AF-S motor).
2. The S3 does not have a very strong focusing motor.
3. The lens is softer at f2.8.

4. The DOF at f2.8 is very small - if you are 20' from the subject the DOF is only 1.23'

5. The subject is moving - if you are using S-AF I'm sure the subject will move more than 1.23' before you fire the shutter.

6. The D200 + 70-200 is light years ahead for this type of subject. A D2H would be even better.

Therefore, I would suggest C-AF with dynamic AF and closest focusing priority active and pan with the subject keeping the focus point on the area to be in focus. Also suggest using f4.
--
John W
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well....!!!

--
John W
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well....!!!

The Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8 lenses are absolutely sharp wide open. Unbeatable lens. Your lens is good, but not in the same league. There's no way your lens can compete with a 70-200 or 80-200 f/2.8 lens, assuming your technique is good with all the lenses.

Anthony

pattir7 said:

Thanks Anthony...you may be right. I may not be fast enough to
focus in this manner. But I did have the camera in dynamic AF and
closest focusing priority active before and was still not happy
with the images I was getting (same moving subject). In fact, I'd
say they were the same or worse. I have since turned dynamic AF
back on and set the sharpness to hard....and will see if that makes
a difference. Thing is, I saw someone else's photos taken of the
same subject, at the same time (same lighting) with a D200 and the
Nikon 70-200 f2.8 lense and I about fell over at the crispness of
the images. So, is it the lense....or the camera... or both at
fault here? Well, I suppose it could be the photographer too...
but all photos were taken at f2.8 so how much could a photographer
really influence the crispness of the subject (assuming we both
know how to focus in general)?

This lack of sharpness is really driving me mad. Wish I knew
someone with that lense so I could just try it and put an end to
this guessing game... or, I suppose, if I knew someone with a D200
to toss this lense on and see if it's the same...that would answer
the question too...

Patti

Click to expand...

--
check out my blog at http://anthonyonphotography.blogspot.com

Member said:

There are several things going on here:
1. The Tamron 28-105 is not a very quick focusing lens that has to
be driven by the camera focus motor (particualy compared with a
Nikon 70-200 with AF-S motor).
2. The S3 does not have a very strong focusing motor.
3. The lens is softer at f2.8.
4. The DOF at f2.8 is very small - if you are 20' from the subject
the DOF is only 1.23'
5. The subject is moving - if you are using S-AF I'm sure the
subject will move more than 1.23' before you fire the shutter.
6. The D200 + 70-200 is light years ahead for this type of subject.
A D2H would be even better.
Therefore, I would suggest C-AF with dynamic AF and closest
focusing priority active and pan with the subject keeping the focus
point on the area to be in focus. Also suggest using f4.
--
John W
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well....!!!

Click to expand...

Thanks so much John. I was afraid someone was going to say that... the lense and the camera are not in the same league...sigh... but I do appreciate the recommendations to achieve (hopefully) better results with what I have. I'm not wanting to drop $3k on a new camera and lense at the moment. I could perhaps see my way towards that lense though if that would help matters at all. Do you think it would? Or would I still have soft images for this type of subject? I had always been happy with this lense/camera until now...but then again, I mostly did portraits before as opposed to action..

I've not had much luck with C-AF though because there is no focus priority and the camera will 'fire' regardless of focus. Is there a technique to actually take images this way and achieve focus?

Hi

I had the same problem with my S2 and two Sigma lenses, 28-80 and 70-300, which I had bought with my Nikon S70.
Only a few times I got nice sparkling images from these lenses.

I sold them and bought the Sigma 18-125 DC. Not the best in the world, but way better then the two lenses I had. I wonder if all old lenses can be used on a DSLR's. Why Sigma makes DC lenses?

Regards

Roeland 't Hart

http://www.pbase.com/mjvrth

I have the same lens and have the same problem. This lens just isn't sharp on the Fuji S2. I also shoot with a Sigma 70-200 2.8 and the images are razor sharp, so I know the Tamron is the problem. I am hoping to replace it with a Tamron 28-75 2.8 which is reputed to be a very sharp lens. You may also have to adjust the focus on your camera. I was able to fix the backfocus on my S2 myself and now have an entirely new camera.

If you take your lens off and look inside the body, behind the mirror on the right side you will see two allen head screws.The front one is for focus point and the back one is for auto focus. If you turn the front screw counter clockwise you move the focus point forward. It only takes a very very slight adjustment to make a big difference.

Find a small object and place it about 5 feet away on a level surface and focus directly on it witha tripod. Photograph it at about 45 degrees and download the photo to find out where the focus point is. Do it a couple times to be sure of the focus point. If the image is sharp at the point you focused on, then nothing is out of whack. If the image is sharp forward or behind your focus point then adjust the screw very slightly and take another picture to see what your results are. It took me about an hour but it made a big difference in the quality of my shots. I also adjusted the autofocus a bit because my camera wouldn't focus at infinity, a 1/8th turn clockwise and it worked great.
I hope this helps. Drop me a line if you need more info
Tim