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Poll - how many people here use Manual exposure on a fairly frequent basis??

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most of the time instead. If my camera had two command wheels where I could use one for the shutter and one for the aperture, I would probably use M most of the time.
 
Barry - in my instances I'm using the FL-50 in manual also. A lot of my outdoor shots are fill flash and I find I can do them in manual better than using EB's method which in my case seems to lead to a lot of yes this shot used flash. I like the flash to be there but not be apparent.

I have learned this after purchasing the FL50 so the extra dollars were already spent. For indoor the FL50 is wonderful almost always in just about any use!

I may revisit covering up the ttl post so I can sync a little higher. I really do like to underexpose for the sky and then just a touch of fill flash. Syncing fast would save some battery life and let my have the aperture more open to more readily blur the background.

Dan
 
hard? I find it amazingly easy since it has perhaps the most dedicated amount of manual controls out of most cams in it's class imo or at least out of all the cam's i've handled in it's range. Once you get it down to where you know how to control the settings by having the lcd off and using the viewfinder then you've got swing of things ;)

I forced myself to only use manual when I first got it. I use manual like many others have said about 90-95% of the time. Shutter priority would probably come a close second when I do a lot of action photography.
 
Theresa K said:
When exposure is tricky and the light meter on the 300 is being its
quirky self. Most of the time, I shoot in aperture priority and
adjust the EV.
Click to expand...
That's what I do as well, usually -0.3EV and Natural

--
E-500, 14-45, 40-150
 
Only if I have to use my FL-40 on my E-1.

Aside from that I use P-mode with ESP most of the time-but I tend to shift the P-suggestion or/and dial in a different EV-or I do lock AEL with the thumb buttnj and work from that....
 
thanks for the link!

Dan
 
I do in full manual. All of my studio work, all of my location portrit sessions, and all of my weddings, and most of my scenic work.

Sometimes when just traveling around, looking for subject matter, I'll shoot in program or aperature.

George Law
Images123.com
 
The Problem is that the cams with only One Wheel like the Exxx, D50 etc only have the WRONG Wheel! - the front one is the most ergonomic to use and they only put one on the back !!

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
E-1 personal process YMMV:
  • set ISO first.
  • 100% Manual mode (if shutter is too slow for fast moving subject, change the ISO)
  • 100% Auto WB using card, disc, or reference point (example: snow, remember that thread ?).
  • chimp to manually bracket exposure.
I admit to some OOF landscapes, am beginning to learn A mode.

Angular Mo.
 
I use manual focusing for occasional macro and difficult night shots. Very often it is not that simple with dark viewfinder and very often I find "missed" focus only when I get home and see the image on the monitor. I almost always use aperture priority and constantly watch the shutter. I shoot in RAW and I never touch WB.
  • Sergey
 
Adam-T said:
The Problem is that the cams with only One Wheel like the Exxx, D50
etc only have the WRONG Wheel! - the front one is the most
ergonomic to use and they only put one on the back !!

--
Click to expand...
I find the back wheel nicer than the front one - so my finger remains on the shutter buton while the other is cycling the settings.
  • Sergey
 
No, I'm following exposure from the spot meter. If I use a flash, very rare, its the onboard on the E500. I preffer ambient light.

Why? I dunno, I find you get more flexibility while underwater shooting in manual mode. I learned photography underwater, in manual, before I ever thought about shooting on dry land - bass ackwards learning curve eh? ;)
SteveM7i said:
If not, why and under what circumstances do you choose to use
manual exposure controls as opposed to program, aperture priority,
or shutter priority modes combined with exposure compensation
and/or bracketing? Also, if not using an external light meter, are
you judging your exposure settings using spot metering? If you're
not, you should be.

Of course, for those of using non-TTL flashes (e.g., manual or auto
flashes), manual control of exposure settings is a part of our
normal routine.

Just curious.

Steve
Click to expand...
--

 
--
Jeff
 
Big Ga said:
vlatko said:
I've got tons of photos shot at Auto ISO and
E-300 definitely varies the ISO.
Click to expand...
That's because you are confusing the 'Auto ISO' ISO setting with
the E300's ability to alter the ISO in certain scene modes.
Click to expand...
What scene modes? Are you trying to tell me that E-300 switches to modes when on Program? I've never used the Scene settings or switched to any of the modes.

And wouldn't it be a bit stupid of Olympus to include a setting that doesn't do anything?
 
PS.

From the manual:

"The ISO sensitivity when it is set to auto is usually ISO 100."

With the keyword being "usually."
 
I see we have a 'selective quoter' amongst us.
vlatko said:
PS.

From the manual:

"The ISO sensitivity when it is set to auto is usually ISO 100."

With the keyword being "usually."
Click to expand...
What you really should have quoted was the whole paragraph.

"The ISO sensitivity when it is set to auto is usually ISO 100. If the subject is too far away for the flash illumination, the sensitivity is automatically increased."

With the keyword being "flash"
 
Big Ga said:
What you really should have quoted was the whole paragraph.
"The ISO sensitivity when it is set to auto is usually ISO 100. If
the subject is too far away for the flash illumination, the
sensitivity is automatically increased."

With the keyword being "flash"
Click to expand...
Right...

So you know better than me what and how I've shot and what ISO setting came up in EXIF.

That's cool. Keep up the good work.
 
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