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Hello!

I want to thank you for the info on formating the smartmedia card with panorama features. It worked great for me and now i have a 39$ 128mg card with panorama feature!

Is there any risk that this would somehow damage the camera?
Maxven said:
Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to
include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/

Which card reader should I get?
Zio seems to be the preference of most. Approx. $25-30
Newest Sandisk readers can't be hacked.

Which sharpening level should I use?
Use soft level for more detail. Sharpening is easily done later in
software, if one's preference is for sharper pictures. You cannot
do it the other way around, i.e. more in-camera sharpening give
less detail that's not as easily extracted with software (unsharpen
mask).

I also have an E-100rs. Can I use this list of advice?
Yes, E-100rs and C-2100UZ share the same lens, so what applies to
the C-2100 most often also applies to the E-100rs.

When should I disable IS?
When your camera is not handheld or when tracking a moving object
that's not coming directly towards you.

That's all folks! I hope more tips will follow from others. I could
use a few myself. ;-)

Regards, Maxven
Click to expand...
 
It's been done many times and haven't heard of any problems.

Don
Daniella3d said:
I want to thank you for the info on formating the smartmedia card
with panorama features. It worked great for me and now i have a 39$
128mg card with panorama feature!

Is there any risk that this would somehow damage the camera?
Daniella68313 said:
Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to
include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/

Which card reader should I get?
Zio seems to be the preference of most. Approx. $25-30
Newest Sandisk readers can't be hacked.

Which sharpening level should I use?
Use soft level for more detail. Sharpening is easily done later in
software, if one's preference is for sharper pictures. You cannot
do it the other way around, i.e. more in-camera sharpening give
less detail that's not as easily extracted with software (unsharpen
mask).

I also have an E-100rs. Can I use this list of advice?
Yes, E-100rs and C-2100UZ share the same lens, so what applies to
the C-2100 most often also applies to the E-100rs.

When should I disable IS?
When your camera is not handheld or when tracking a moving object
that's not coming directly towards you.

That's all folks! I hope more tips will follow from others. I could
use a few myself. ;-)

Regards, Maxven
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Don:

I only have Olympus cards. What causes the pan function to be erased? If I have re-formatted or erased the card on my MAC, how can I tell if the pan function is still there? Wont the camera re-format process put it back in?
doyle
Don Olson said:
Don
Daniella3d said:
I want to thank you for the info on formating the smartmedia card
with panorama features. It worked great for me and now i have a 39$
128mg card with panorama feature!

Is there any risk that this would somehow damage the camera?
LuckyDon said:
Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to
include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I've been watching and reading this thread since maxven put it together (thanks Max) and I must agree it is filled with sage advice. I have had my UZI for 4 months now and I am ready to add my sage advice to this honorable list.

So what is the single most important accessory to buy when you get an UZI?

A TRUCK!

preferrably an old truck. it must be reliable, full of gas, and oil (keep a few extra cans of that stuff in the bed of the truck...add one can every time you get gas). it should have minimum paint on it...you certainly don't want to worry about getting the paint job scratched. it should have a radio, but you should not turn it on, you will not be listening anyway. it should not have a cell phone, you will not want to be disturbed. newby would insist (and I certainly agree) that it should have an Igloo cooler that will hold one case of beer (you can always stop and get more). it should smell funny.

Seriously,

I've never really needed a truck. I'm more the luxury sedan type, city slicker is what they call us here in Gawga. Since I got my UZI, I have been taking more and more trips down every nook and cranny, every dirt road, every path that I can find. Lured to the countryside with my UZI at my side, I just know the next great photo opp is around the next bend in the road.

When you get this camera, it is certain that things are going to change. You will never look at a sunrise the same way, or a sunset. You will crane your neck to see the view over that bridge that you have crossed a hundred times and never bothered to look. And you may find that you take this guy with you everywhere you go. Because when you don't, you miss that shot you've been waiting for. You will get up early or stay up late. You will go into cemetaries and curb markets with new purpose. And you will need a truck.

Jim
 
hello ... how about one of those fishing towers set up in the back for those long shots... sounds like old times sandman...-jf-
Sandman said:
I've been watching and reading this thread since maxven put it
together (thanks Max) and I must agree it is filled with sage
advice. I have had my UZI for 4 months now and I am ready to add
my sage advice to this honorable list.

So what is the single most important accessory to buy when you get
an UZI?

A TRUCK!

preferrably an old truck. it must be reliable, full of gas, and
oil (keep a few extra cans of that stuff in the bed of the
truck...add one can every time you get gas). it should have
minimum paint on it...you certainly don't want to worry about
getting the paint job scratched. it should have a radio, but you
should not turn it on, you will not be listening anyway. it should
not have a cell phone, you will not want to be disturbed. newby
would insist (and I certainly agree) that it should have an Igloo
cooler that will hold one case of beer (you can always stop and get
more). it should smell funny.

Seriously,

I've never really needed a truck. I'm more the luxury sedan type,
city slicker is what they call us here in Gawga. Since I got my
UZI, I have been taking more and more trips down every nook and
cranny, every dirt road, every path that I can find. Lured to the
countryside with my UZI at my side, I just know the next great
photo opp is around the next bend in the road.

When you get this camera, it is certain that things are going to
change. You will never look at a sunrise the same way, or a
sunset. You will crane your neck to see the view over that bridge
that you have crossed a hundred times and never bothered to look.
And you may find that you take this guy with you everywhere you go.
Because when you don't, you miss that shot you've been waiting for.
You will get up early or stay up late. You will go into cemetaries
and curb markets with new purpose. And you will need a truck.

Jim
Click to expand...
 
Here's my 2 cents added to the answer in the original thread.
Maxven said:
Q. I read that the EVF is not very good in dark situations, how do
I overcome this shortcomming?

A. I find that as long as the autofocus light (A bright Orange/Red
beam when seen in dark rooms), falls on the subject, you can get
great pictures. This does however preclude the use of any of the
manual focus modes. I find that trial and error will allow for many
successful night shots even in manual modes. Besides, what else is
bracketing and the ability to delete unsuccessful images for!
Click to expand...
The autofocus light will make sure the focus is accurate but will not help you compose your shot.

Increase the brightness of the EVF until you can make out your subject in the dark. The EVF and LCD brightness can be set independantly of each other. Compose your shot using the EVF at high or maximum brightness, take the shot, then check it in the LCD at normal brightness.

This technique will normally work in any very low light environment where you can make out the subject with the naked eye. It will not work in a pitch black room. I also do not think it will help with manual focusing, but then again, I never tried it.

Word of warning. If you are using this technique, avoid pointing the camera at any lights while you are looking through the EVF. At maximum brightness the light in the EVF will be blinding. Believe me it hurts! :-(

Pat
 
I don't have Olympus card except the 8mg that came with it..i bought a cheap efilm 128mg card and formatted as an Olympus card with panorama header. You need a special software to do this.

If you reformat your original genuine Olympus card from your camera it will retain the panorama feature. I have not tried to reformat the efil card once it had the Olympus header, but without it the camera will not even allow you to go into panorama mode that it will not be available.

If you can go to panorama mode, then your card is properly formatted.

If you eve loose the panorama feature in one of your Olympus card, then you will need to fallow the procedure explained in this earlier message that started this topic. You will need a USB reader, i use Efilm and it worked fine for me.
Doyle L. said:
Don Olson said:
Don
Daniella3d said:
I want to thank you for the info on formating the smartmedia card
with panorama features. It worked great for me and now i have a 39$
128mg card with panorama feature!

Is there any risk that this would somehow damage the camera?
Doyle L. said:
Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to
include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Maxven said:
Is the IS alone worth the extra money vs. the 700? Yes, that plus
the AF assist lamp, the included batteries and the included charger
Click to expand...
Ummm, is this a little outdated perhaps? I just bought a 2100 yesterday and from looking around local retailers like CompUSA & BestBuy the C700 seems to be going for $599 and the 2100 is going for $499?
Maxven said:
Isn't the 2100 too big and heavy? No, it'll feel great in your
hands...like you're using a "real" camera and not just some "point
Click to expand...
I found the 2100 size & weight to be greatly overrated. It feels a little bigger than my old 2000 and a lot easier to lug around than my Nikon 990 (esp when using the Nikon telephoto adapter). Finding a nice bag that would fit it was a challenge since the 2100 is more of a cube shape and not the normal camera proportion.
 
Update: I found that with a Tiffen 49-55mm step up ring glued to the front end of the C-210 the lens shade will still snap into place.

Maxven
Maxven said:
The below information is compiled from a line of posts by MR and JD.

I have found with the C2100/E-100rs you can stack a C210 and B300
teleconverter for a 3.2x. The quality is good and maintains all the
automatic functions of the camera, there is some very slight
vignetting and about 1 F-stop loss of light. This gives you a 35mm
equivalent of 1227MM lens.
The Set-up requires you to buy a C210 (about $59 at Adorama), you
will need a 49 to 52mm step up ring for C2100 to C210
teleconverter. then you will need a 49 to 55mm Step-up ring that is
epoxied to front of C210 to add needed threads (epoxied used was
Simpson Epoxy tie, about $7 at home depot, and is extremely
strong). Care must be exercised not to drip epoxy on front element
of C210. This can be accomplished by putting a bead of epoxy on the
flange of the 49 to 55mm step-up ring, and placing the front on the
C210 down into. Allow 24 hrs. for set, then B300 will screw into
the 55mm thread.
When handholding it is easy to support the lens combo. I usually
set my UZI on Shutter priority to 1/800 to minimize camera shake.
You need a strong tripod to hold it. It is a long lens with some
weight to it. It would be preferable if added support could be
added. I am going to see if the lens support for my Eagle eye will
fit around the base of the C210, to centre balance the Combo more.
The C-210 is really small, the outer lens is not much larger than
the B300 inner lens (about 1/2") The inner glass is tiny at 3/4" in
diameter. Not a problem though. It is about 2 -1/2" long, very very
light weight. Doesn't appear to be quite as well made as the B300.
"Made in Taiwan". Again , not a problem considering that the lens
is only $59.00 and provides 1.9X tele.
I don't believe I am getting any more vignetting, than if I shot
with the C210 without the 49-55 step-up in front of the lens. The
reason I like the 49 to 55 mm step-up is to give me some surface
area for the epoxy, to bond to. But a thinner Step-up ring may work
It should be noted that the lens hood that snaps into place now
when you pull it out all the way. Will pull out, but wont snap into
place after 49-55 step-up is epoxied on. But I think you be happy
with results of this combo compared to any manufactured conversion
lens available.
The C-210 appears to be pretty close to the B300 in clarity and
sharpness when plenty of light is available, but due to the smaller
glass it doesn't perform nearly as good unless there is plenty of
light. I did compare them in darker and lighter situations. The
B300 was exceptional as usual but the C-210 needs more light to be
able to capture a sharp image . Of course this was not on a tripod.
It might be OK when used with slower tripod speeds. I handheld and
used a monopod (love that monopod). The difference of image
magnification between the B300 at 1.7X and the c-210 at 1.9X is
noticeable. Image size is substantially larger with the C-210, but
NOT one tiny bit of zoom range (without vignetting appearing ) is
possible
I could not get the C-210/B-300 set-up to vignette . I don't
understand but after approx 30 images I could barely detect
vignetting in only a couple. No vignetting when used at full tele
alone with the C2100 either..
Pictures of the set-up and a few samples can be found at

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1767819&a=13650334

Regards, Maxven
Click to expand...
 
I'm trying to set my UZI so that it always uses ISO 100. I've set up the reset options so it doesn't reset the ISO setting. Unfortunately the camera is set to Auto as soon as I power down and back up again.

After a bit of research I've come to the conclusion that this is a firmware bug that got introduced to the NEW versions of UZIs. My camera version is v352u-74. As a final test, I set my ISO to 200 and did a power cycle. The camera REMEMBERED ISO 200. Set it to 100 and Il get auto. [sigh]

Is there any fix for this problem short of sending the camera back to Olympus? (Wouldn't it be nice if there was a firmware update utility that worked through the USB!)
--Cameras: UZ Twenty-one-hundredC Twenty-Forty-Z(Take THAT, search engine.)
 
I set my ISO in the custom menu to reset on. It starts up in A/S/M mode at ISO 100. When I put it in P mode it goes to auto. Hmmm. I don't mind cause my camera lives in aperture priority or manual mode and most of my shooting is outdoors so I'm sure to have ISO 100 outdoors. The only time I use P mode is for indoor flash shots. So I just have to remember to set it to 100 for indoor P mode flash shots...Bob
Voripteth said:
I'm trying to set my UZI so that it always uses ISO 100. I've set
up the reset options so it doesn't reset the ISO setting.
Unfortunately the camera is set to Auto as soon as I power down and
back up again.

After a bit of research I've come to the conclusion that this is a
firmware bug that got introduced to the NEW versions of UZIs. My
camera version is v352u-74. As a final test, I set my ISO to 200
and did a power cycle. The camera REMEMBERED ISO 200. Set it to
100 and Il get auto. [sigh]

Is there any fix for this problem short of sending the camera back
to Olympus? (Wouldn't it be nice if there was a firmware update
utility that worked through the USB!)

--
Cameras:
UZ Twenty-one-hundred
C Twenty-Forty-Z

(Take THAT, search engine.)
Click to expand...
--'Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away, and you have their shoes too.'
 
Wow! Sure enough mine does the same thing. It remembers ASA 100 as long as I don't shut it off in P mode. Another odd bit is that after I turn it on again, if I do set it in P mode it again switches to Auto ISO.

Sure is an obscure bug!
Bob S said:
I set my ISO in the custom menu to reset on. It starts up in A/S/M

mode at ISO 100. When I put it in P mode it goes to auto. --Cameras: UZ Twenty-one-hundredC Twenty-Forty-Z(Take THAT, search engine.)
Click to expand...
 
BUMP
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Maxven said:
Just bringing the thread to the top again. There are a number of
topics which haven't been covered yet, that I think others can
cover better than I can. External flashes for one.

Regards, Maxven
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