2100 Everything you need to know (clean thread)

Maxven

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Following up on mikej.'s brilliant idea of Q&A thread, I'm starting a new one to get a clean thread. Please don't post anything but advice, so as not to get a messy thread.

From mikej. :

Can the 2100 use a 128MB card? Yes.

What are the "must have" accessories from Day 1? UV filter (to protect the lens if for no other reason), extra rechargeable batteries (many recommend 1600mha NIMH) and greenbatteries.com seems to be a popular place to get them.

Update (Maxven): greenbatteries "Best Value" is currently POWERhaus with 4 GP 1800 mAh NiMh.

Where should I buy the 2100? ANYWHERE YOU CAN GET IT! Seriously, find a price or dealer you're comfortable with and then check out resellerratings.com and do a "search' through the forum for that particular reseller. B&H and dBuys seem pretty popular lately.

Should I buy the 2100 or the 700? Again, do a search for more information, but anybody that has a 2100 will tell you they love theirs, have a lot of fun with theirs, and would tell you to go buy it ASAP.

Is the IS alone worth the extra money vs. the 700? Yes, that plus the AF assist lamp, the included batteries and the included charger and remote control.

Will my 2100 have "SDS"? Who knows...and that's what warranties and return/exchange programs are for. Odds are it won't have SDS.

Isn't the 2100 too big and heavy? No, it'll feel great in your hands...like you're using a "real" camera and not just some "point and shoot".

But, it looks complicated. Can I just "point and shoot' with it? Sure! In "P" program mode, just zoom, focus and click. You can start there and work your way into more advanced features.

I also bought a B300, do I need an adaptor? Yes, you'll need a 49-55mm step-up ring. Just a few dollars at any camera store or online.

Do I need to buy an extended warranty (i.e. Mack)? If it makes you feel better.

Should I wait for the 4040? You should if you don't want the 10X zoom and all the other features that make the 2100 great.

What camera bag should I buy? Do a search for "camera bags" and start from there. It all depends on what you intend to put in it.

It "only" has 2.1 megapixels, shouldn't I wait for a C3100 or C4100? No, you're already missing out on all the fun, and Olympus hasn't announced any plans for such a camera.

Haven't I read about a "hot pixel test"? You can find it here:
http://www.starzen.com/digicam

Mike Diamond's contribution:

Q. Can the C2100 record sound?

A. Yes, but it has no speaker, so you can't listen to what has been recorded until you download the sound file.

Q. How is the sound file stored?

A. The sound file is stored with the same name as the picture, but with a ".WAV" extension

Q. Can I take action photo's with the C2100?

A. Yes, many of us are avid sports fans and have taken Baseball, and Soccer action pictures with our C2100.

Q. I read that the EVF is not very good in dark situations, how do I overcome this shortcomming?

A. I find that as long as the autofocus light (A bright Orange/Red beam when seen in dark rooms), falls on the subject, you can get great pictures. This does however preclude the use of any of the manual focus modes. I find that trial and error will allow for many successful night shots even in manual modes. Besides, what else is bracketing and the ability to delete unsuccessful images for!

Q. How necessary is the 10X lens?

A. Extremely! (IMHO). It's nice to be able to take a picture of a ladies eyelashes at 50 feet and be able to count each lash! Seriously, it enables you to capture pictures and events that would otherwise lose all meaning. It also allows you to crop, in camera.

Some from David (df):

Are 2.1 MP enough to make good prints? Yes, certainly up to 8x10 size.

What about good software for printing? Many use Qimage Pro.

Tips from pius:

The C2100 works well with the Oly B-Macro lens for sharp macro shots as close as one inch.

Auto white balance seems to work best on the C2100 the vast majority of times.

The C2100's spot focus seems to be much more reliable than its ESP focus.

The C2100 takes very good pictures at 1600x1200 HQ. Many people have been hard pressed to tell the difference in terms of image quality between HQ and SHQ (SHQ files are about 3 times larger) at 1600x1200. Obviously SHQ files will give better enlargements for cropping and printing, and yield better post-processing results, but the significant advantage of being able to take 3 times as many HQ pictures on the same memory card cannot be ignored when image quality is so close.

A few of my own:

What teleconverters work with the 2100?
B-300 - hard to come by, expensive, heavy but excellent quality
Still available at

http://www.dpreview.com/misc/rdr.asp?url=http://www.scandinavianphoto.se/products/item.asp !ItemId=810&seekBack=true&SectionID=485 goto bottom of page
A-200 - same as above but light weight
C-210 - a good alternative with only slight vignetting and 1.9x
C-180 - go for the C-210
C-160 - go for the C-210
All but A-200 available at
http://www.adorama.com "Cameras & Lenses", "35MM Point and Shoot", Accessories
Canon TL-46 - good price+quality, light weight, 1.4x
Also available at Adorama ($80 incl step up ring)

Which wideangle lens is good for the 2100?

Raynox 6600 .66x, $110 at bugseyedigital.com, many recommend the 49mm version for less vignetting (still open for discussion).
Tiffen Megaplus WA

Which filters should I get?
Multicoated UV for protection

Linear polarizer - enhances skies, clouds, etc. Eliminates reflections from metal, glass, water, etc.
Infrared - good for digital art and general fun
Closeup - if you like shooting macro shots

Center spot - for portraits, blurres the background (can be done with picture processing, not a "must have" filter)

Does it matter which brand filter I get?

You more or less get what you pay for. The three best brands that are easy to come by are (listed by my personal quality perception):
B+W, Hoya, and Tiffen

Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/

Which card reader should I get?
Zio seems to be the preference of most. Approx. $25-30
Newest Sandisk readers can't be hacked.

Which sharpening level should I use?

Use soft level for more detail. Sharpening is easily done later in software, if one's preference is for sharper pictures. You cannot do it the other way around, i.e. more in-camera sharpening give less detail that's not as easily extracted with software (unsharpen mask).

I also have an E-100rs. Can I use this list of advice?

Yes, E-100rs and C-2100UZ share the same lens, so what applies to the C-2100 most often also applies to the E-100rs.

When should I disable IS?

When your camera is not handheld or when tracking a moving object that's not coming directly towards you.

That's all folks! I hope more tips will follow from others. I could use a few myself. ;-)

Regards, Maxven
 
Following up on mikej.'s brilliant idea of Q&A thread, I'm starting
a new one to get a clean thread. Please don't post anything but
advice, so as not to get a messy thread.

From mikej. :

Can the 2100 use a 128MB card? Yes.

What are the "must have" accessories from Day 1? UV filter (to
protect the lens if for no other reason), extra rechargeable
batteries (many recommend 1600mha NIMH) and greenbatteries.com
seems to be a popular place to get them.
Update (Maxven): greenbatteries "Best Value" is currently POWERhaus
with 4 GP 1800 mAh NiMh.

Where should I buy the 2100? ANYWHERE YOU CAN GET IT! Seriously,
find a price or dealer you're comfortable with and then check out
resellerratings.com and do a "search' through the forum for that
particular reseller. B&H and dBuys seem pretty popular lately.

Should I buy the 2100 or the 700? Again, do a search for more
information, but anybody that has a 2100 will tell you they love
theirs, have a lot of fun with theirs, and would tell you to go buy
it ASAP.

Is the IS alone worth the extra money vs. the 700? Yes, that plus
the AF assist lamp, the included batteries and the included charger
and remote control.

Will my 2100 have "SDS"? Who knows...and that's what warranties and
return/exchange programs are for. Odds are it won't have SDS.

Isn't the 2100 too big and heavy? No, it'll feel great in your
hands...like you're using a "real" camera and not just some "point
and shoot".

But, it looks complicated. Can I just "point and shoot' with it?
Sure! In "P" program mode, just zoom, focus and click. You can
start there and work your way into more advanced features.

I also bought a B300, do I need an adaptor? Yes, you'll need a
49-55mm step-up ring. Just a few dollars at any camera store or
online.

Do I need to buy an extended warranty (i.e. Mack)? If it makes you
feel better.

Should I wait for the 4040? You should if you don't want the 10X
zoom and all the other features that make the 2100 great.

What camera bag should I buy? Do a search for "camera bags" and
start from there. It all depends on what you intend to put in it.

It "only" has 2.1 megapixels, shouldn't I wait for a C3100 or
C4100? No, you're already missing out on all the fun, and Olympus
hasn't announced any plans for such a camera.

Haven't I read about a "hot pixel test"? You can find it here:
http://www.starzen.com/digicam

Mike Diamond's contribution:

Q. Can the C2100 record sound?

A. Yes, but it has no speaker, so you can't listen to what has been
recorded until you download the sound file.

Q. How is the sound file stored?

A. The sound file is stored with the same name as the picture, but
with a ".WAV" extension

Q. Can I take action photo's with the C2100?

A. Yes, many of us are avid sports fans and have taken Baseball,
and Soccer action pictures with our C2100.

Q. I read that the EVF is not very good in dark situations, how do
I overcome this shortcomming?

A. I find that as long as the autofocus light (A bright Orange/Red
beam when seen in dark rooms), falls on the subject, you can get
great pictures. This does however preclude the use of any of the
manual focus modes. I find that trial and error will allow for many
successful night shots even in manual modes. Besides, what else is
bracketing and the ability to delete unsuccessful images for!

Q. How necessary is the 10X lens?

A. Extremely! (IMHO). It's nice to be able to take a picture of a
ladies eyelashes at 50 feet and be able to count each lash!
Seriously, it enables you to capture pictures and events that would
otherwise lose all meaning. It also allows you to crop, in camera.

Some from David (df):

Are 2.1 MP enough to make good prints? Yes, certainly up to 8x10 size.

What about good software for printing? Many use Qimage Pro.

Tips from pius:

The C2100 works well with the Oly B-Macro lens for sharp macro
shots as close as one inch.

Auto white balance seems to work best on the C2100 the vast
majority of times.

The C2100's spot focus seems to be much more reliable than its ESP
focus.

The C2100 takes very good pictures at 1600x1200 HQ. Many people
have been hard pressed to tell the difference in terms of image
quality between HQ and SHQ (SHQ files are about 3 times larger) at
1600x1200. Obviously SHQ files will give better enlargements for
cropping and printing, and yield better post-processing results,
but the significant advantage of being able to take 3 times as many
HQ pictures on the same memory card cannot be ignored when image
quality is so close.

A few of my own:

What teleconverters work with the 2100?
B-300 - hard to come by, expensive, heavy but excellent quality
Still available at

http://www.dpreview.com/misc/rdr.asp?url=http://www.scandinavianphoto.se/products/item.asp !ItemId=810&seekBack=true&SectionID=485 goto bottom of page
A-200 - same as above but light weight
C-210 - a good alternative with only slight vignetting and 1.9x
C-180 - go for the C-210
C-160 - go for the C-210
All but A-200 available at
http://www.adorama.com "Cameras & Lenses", "35MM Point and Shoot",
Accessories
Canon TL-46 - good price+quality, light weight, 1.4x
Also available at Adorama ($80 incl step up ring)

Which wideangle lens is good for the 2100?
Raynox 6600 .66x, $110 at bugseyedigital.com, many recommend the
49mm version for less vignetting (still open for discussion).
Tiffen Megaplus WA

Which filters should I get?
Multicoated UV for protection
Linear polarizer - enhances skies, clouds, etc. Eliminates
reflections from metal, glass, water, etc.
Infrared - good for digital art and general fun
Closeup - if you like shooting macro shots
Center spot - for portraits, blurres the background (can be done
with picture processing, not a "must have" filter)

Does it matter which brand filter I get?

You more or less get what you pay for. The three best brands that
are easy to come by are (listed by my personal quality perception):
B+W, Hoya, and Tiffen

Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to
include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/

Which card reader should I get?
Zio seems to be the preference of most. Approx. $25-30
Newest Sandisk readers can't be hacked.

Which sharpening level should I use?
Use soft level for more detail. Sharpening is easily done later in
software, if one's preference is for sharper pictures. You cannot
do it the other way around, i.e. more in-camera sharpening give
less detail that's not as easily extracted with software (unsharpen
mask).

I also have an E-100rs. Can I use this list of advice?
Yes, E-100rs and C-2100UZ share the same lens, so what applies to
the C-2100 most often also applies to the E-100rs.

When should I disable IS?
When your camera is not handheld or when tracking a moving object
that's not coming directly towards you.

That's all folks! I hope more tips will follow from others. I could
use a few myself. ;-)

Regards, Maxven
 
Following up on mikej.'s brilliant idea of Q&A thread, I'm starting
a new one to get a clean thread. Please don't post anything but
advice, so as not to get a messy thread.
Will airport xrays harm smart media cards? No they will not.
-d greene
From mikej. :

Can the 2100 use a 128MB card? Yes.

What are the "must have" accessories from Day 1? UV filter (to
protect the lens if for no other reason), extra rechargeable
batteries (many recommend 1600mha NIMH) and greenbatteries.com
seems to be a popular place to get them.
Update (Maxven): greenbatteries "Best Value" is currently POWERhaus
with 4 GP 1800 mAh NiMh.

Where should I buy the 2100? ANYWHERE YOU CAN GET IT! Seriously,
find a price or dealer you're comfortable with and then check out
resellerratings.com and do a "search' through the forum for that
particular reseller. B&H and dBuys seem pretty popular lately.

Should I buy the 2100 or the 700? Again, do a search for more
information, but anybody that has a 2100 will tell you they love
theirs, have a lot of fun with theirs, and would tell you to go buy
it ASAP.

Is the IS alone worth the extra money vs. the 700? Yes, that plus
the AF assist lamp, the included batteries and the included charger
and remote control.

Will my 2100 have "SDS"? Who knows...and that's what warranties and
return/exchange programs are for. Odds are it won't have SDS.

Isn't the 2100 too big and heavy? No, it'll feel great in your
hands...like you're using a "real" camera and not just some "point
and shoot".

But, it looks complicated. Can I just "point and shoot' with it?
Sure! In "P" program mode, just zoom, focus and click. You can
start there and work your way into more advanced features.

I also bought a B300, do I need an adaptor? Yes, you'll need a
49-55mm step-up ring. Just a few dollars at any camera store or
online.

Do I need to buy an extended warranty (i.e. Mack)? If it makes you
feel better.

Should I wait for the 4040? You should if you don't want the 10X
zoom and all the other features that make the 2100 great.

What camera bag should I buy? Do a search for "camera bags" and
start from there. It all depends on what you intend to put in it.

It "only" has 2.1 megapixels, shouldn't I wait for a C3100 or
C4100? No, you're already missing out on all the fun, and Olympus
hasn't announced any plans for such a camera.

Haven't I read about a "hot pixel test"? You can find it here:
http://www.starzen.com/digicam

Mike Diamond's contribution:

Q. Can the C2100 record sound?

A. Yes, but it has no speaker, so you can't listen to what has been
recorded until you download the sound file.

Q. How is the sound file stored?

A. The sound file is stored with the same name as the picture, but
with a ".WAV" extension

Q. Can I take action photo's with the C2100?

A. Yes, many of us are avid sports fans and have taken Baseball,
and Soccer action pictures with our C2100.

Q. I read that the EVF is not very good in dark situations, how do
I overcome this shortcomming?

A. I find that as long as the autofocus light (A bright Orange/Red
beam when seen in dark rooms), falls on the subject, you can get
great pictures. This does however preclude the use of any of the
manual focus modes. I find that trial and error will allow for many
successful night shots even in manual modes. Besides, what else is
bracketing and the ability to delete unsuccessful images for!

Q. How necessary is the 10X lens?

A. Extremely! (IMHO). It's nice to be able to take a picture of a
ladies eyelashes at 50 feet and be able to count each lash!
Seriously, it enables you to capture pictures and events that would
otherwise lose all meaning. It also allows you to crop, in camera.

Some from David (df):

Are 2.1 MP enough to make good prints? Yes, certainly up to 8x10 size.

What about good software for printing? Many use Qimage Pro.

Tips from pius:

The C2100 works well with the Oly B-Macro lens for sharp macro
shots as close as one inch.

Auto white balance seems to work best on the C2100 the vast
majority of times.

The C2100's spot focus seems to be much more reliable than its ESP
focus.

The C2100 takes very good pictures at 1600x1200 HQ. Many people
have been hard pressed to tell the difference in terms of image
quality between HQ and SHQ (SHQ files are about 3 times larger) at
1600x1200. Obviously SHQ files will give better enlargements for
cropping and printing, and yield better post-processing results,
but the significant advantage of being able to take 3 times as many
HQ pictures on the same memory card cannot be ignored when image
quality is so close.

A few of my own:

What teleconverters work with the 2100?
B-300 - hard to come by, expensive, heavy but excellent quality
Still available at

http://www.dpreview.com/misc/rdr.asp?url=http://www.scandinavianphoto.se/products/item.asp !ItemId=810&seekBack=true&SectionID=485 goto bottom of page
A-200 - same as above but light weight
C-210 - a good alternative with only slight vignetting and 1.9x
C-180 - go for the C-210
C-160 - go for the C-210
All but A-200 available at
http://www.adorama.com "Cameras & Lenses", "35MM Point and Shoot",
Accessories
Canon TL-46 - good price+quality, light weight, 1.4x
Also available at Adorama ($80 incl step up ring)

Which wideangle lens is good for the 2100?
Raynox 6600 .66x, $110 at bugseyedigital.com, many recommend the
49mm version for less vignetting (still open for discussion).
Tiffen Megaplus WA

Which filters should I get?
Multicoated UV for protection
Linear polarizer - enhances skies, clouds, etc. Eliminates
reflections from metal, glass, water, etc.
Infrared - good for digital art and general fun
Closeup - if you like shooting macro shots
Center spot - for portraits, blurres the background (can be done
with picture processing, not a "must have" filter)

Does it matter which brand filter I get?

You more or less get what you pay for. The three best brands that
are easy to come by are (listed by my personal quality perception):
B+W, Hoya, and Tiffen

Do non Olympus cards work with C2100 if you want the panorama feature?

Yes, if you have a card reader, you can format any brand SM card to
include the panorama feature. See link below:
http://www.geocities.com/roberthaus/pan/

Which card reader should I get?
Zio seems to be the preference of most. Approx. $25-30
Newest Sandisk readers can't be hacked.

Which sharpening level should I use?
Use soft level for more detail. Sharpening is easily done later in
software, if one's preference is for sharper pictures. You cannot
do it the other way around, i.e. more in-camera sharpening give
less detail that's not as easily extracted with software (unsharpen
mask).

I also have an E-100rs. Can I use this list of advice?
Yes, E-100rs and C-2100UZ share the same lens, so what applies to
the C-2100 most often also applies to the E-100rs.

When should I disable IS?
When your camera is not handheld or when tracking a moving object
that's not coming directly towards you.

That's all folks! I hope more tips will follow from others. I could
use a few myself. ;-)

Regards, Maxven
 
Afraid of getting your LCD scratched?

Get the 'da Protector Junior. It's a piece of glass that fit's the 2" LCD display. It's got adhesive strips one one side and can easily be removed again. Price $8 incl. shipping from
http://www.daproducts.com/dpjr.htm

It's already too late, my LCD is full of scrathes, and I don't want a piece of glass on top of my LCD. What do I do?

No probs! Use wax or silicone on the LCD to smoothen out the scratches and get a smooth surface. You can also use clear tape or selfadhesive laminate to cover your LCD. Lots of tips available from other forum members here:
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1008&page=1&message=1539956

Regards, Maxven
 
The below information is compiled from a line of posts by MR and JD.

I have found with the C2100/E-100rs you can stack a C210 and B300 teleconverter for a 3.2x. The quality is good and maintains all the automatic functions of the camera, there is some very slight vignetting and about 1 F-stop loss of light. This gives you a 35mm equivalent of 1227MM lens.

The Set-up requires you to buy a C210 (about $59 at Adorama), you will need a 49 to 52mm step up ring for C2100 to C210 teleconverter. then you will need a 49 to 55mm Step-up ring that is epoxied to front of C210 to add needed threads (epoxied used was Simpson Epoxy tie, about $7 at home depot, and is extremely strong). Care must be exercised not to drip epoxy on front element of C210. This can be accomplished by putting a bead of epoxy on the flange of the 49 to 55mm step-up ring, and placing the front on the C210 down into. Allow 24 hrs. for set, then B300 will screw into the 55mm thread.

When handholding it is easy to support the lens combo. I usually set my UZI on Shutter priority to 1/800 to minimize camera shake. You need a strong tripod to hold it. It is a long lens with some weight to it. It would be preferable if added support could be added. I am going to see if the lens support for my Eagle eye will fit around the base of the C210, to centre balance the Combo more.

The C-210 is really small, the outer lens is not much larger than the B300 inner lens (about 1/2") The inner glass is tiny at 3/4" in diameter. Not a problem though. It is about 2 -1/2" long, very very light weight. Doesn't appear to be quite as well made as the B300. "Made in Taiwan". Again , not a problem considering that the lens is only $59.00 and provides 1.9X tele.

I don't believe I am getting any more vignetting, than if I shot with the C210 without the 49-55 step-up in front of the lens. The reason I like the 49 to 55 mm step-up is to give me some surface area for the epoxy, to bond to. But a thinner Step-up ring may work It should be noted that the lens hood that snaps into place now when you pull it out all the way. Will pull out, but wont snap into place after 49-55 step-up is epoxied on. But I think you be happy with results of this combo compared to any manufactured conversion lens available.

The C-210 appears to be pretty close to the B300 in clarity and sharpness when plenty of light is available, but due to the smaller glass it doesn't perform nearly as good unless there is plenty of light. I did compare them in darker and lighter situations. The B300 was exceptional as usual but the C-210 needs more light to be able to capture a sharp image . Of course this was not on a tripod. It might be OK when used with slower tripod speeds. I handheld and used a monopod (love that monopod). The difference of image magnification between the B300 at 1.7X and the c-210 at 1.9X is noticeable. Image size is substantially larger with the C-210, but NOT one tiny bit of zoom range (without vignetting appearing ) is possible

I could not get the C-210/B-300 set-up to vignette . I don't understand but after approx 30 images I could barely detect vignetting in only a couple. No vignetting when used at full tele alone with the C2100 either..
Pictures of the set-up and a few samples can be found at

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1767819&a=13650334

Regards, Maxven
 
Is there a safe & easy way to get dust out of the EVF????
I had the same problem. It's an easy fix. Find a #0 phillips head jewlers screwdriver. I didn't have one so I took my 2100 and a cotton swab to a eyeglass store and the guy let me use his. Remove the screw under the viewfinder and the one on the side of it next to the diopter wheel. the viewfinder comes out as one piece. Gently blow the dust out and use the cotton swab to get it all. Put the viewfider back on and VERY CAREFULLY put the screws back in. DO NOT over tighten. Good as new. Just make sure you use a jewlers type screwdriver (like for eyeglasses) so you don't strip the screws. I don't know how dust get's in there but it does. Mine is due for another cleaning...Bob
 
Thanks Bob!

Maxven----Don't use compressed air on your EVF!!!! I tried that & it made things a lot worse.

Tim
 
I think you are missing Olympus TCon-14 1.45x converter here. I think it fits 2100z well.

-Niko
What teleconverters work with the 2100?
B-300 - hard to come by, expensive, heavy but excellent quality
Still available at

http://www.dpreview.com/misc/rdr.asp?url=http://www.scandinavianphoto.se/products/item.asp !ItemId=810&seekBack=true&SectionID=485 goto bottom of page
A-200 - same as above but light weight
C-210 - a good alternative with only slight vignetting and 1.9x
C-180 - go for the C-210
C-160 - go for the C-210
All but A-200 available at
http://www.adorama.com "Cameras & Lenses", "35MM Point and Shoot",
Accessories
Canon TL-46 - good price+quality, light weight, 1.4x
Also available at Adorama ($80 incl step up ring)
 
There are 2 basic choices for ext. flash:

1)Oly FL-40 flash+required BK01 Bracket+required CB01 cable (about$350 total).

2)Low Voltage 3rd party flash (Vivitar 285HV is most poplular)+required CB04 Cable+generic bracket. About $150 total for 285HV+ cable and basic bracket.

Fl-40 route:

Simplest, best exposure accuracy overall (esp for 10x zoom shots). No fiddling with settings. Turn it on and shoot. Powerful, compact unit with tilt, swivel, auto zoom head. Sounds great... well it is except... Very expensive, in full auto mode uses a preflash that makes taking action shots very difficut and causes some people to blink just when the shutter opens. If you have the money and don't shoot lots of flash action shots (like indoor gyms) this is the best solution.

3rd party flash route:

Less expensive, more flexible choices on bracket, no preflash to slow you down or cause subjects to blink.. ... BUT takes more experience, some settings to set on both camera and flash (not many in auto mode, but still some). Less accurate exposure, especially for 10x zoomed shots. This is the solution for those on a budget or who shoot lots of flash action shots. If you go this route I stongly recommend the Vivitar 285HV, a powerful flash with lots of options, good auto mode and it has been used by me and lots of 2100 owners w/o burning out their camera. If you use a different 3rd party flash you must be sure its voltage is low enough.

Holland
 

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