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I can't decide...Color Mode I, II, III?

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Debbie

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I've been switching back and forth between Color Mode II and III for my sports. In the summer I do softball/baseball which has a lot of green grass in the picture. I also shoot swimming which has a lot of blue water. I can't make up my mind if I like II or III the best. The main difference I see is that one has the grass really green and the other has more yellow in the green shade. What does everyone use?
 
I'm going to give it a try on Thurs' swim meet. The ones I got tonight had the skin tones too reddish. I set it on I and then but saturation to enhanced.
 
You should be able to judge by yourself, it's a matter of taste. No one would know better than you, what color balance you like the best.
 
I think you're hopping about trying anything without analyzing what you're actually doing... hoping for a good result.

I suspect that you are actually confusing color mode I, II, and III with actually having a correct WB. First things first. Determine whether or not you are setting your WB correctly.

As for I, II, and III color modes... there may be many disagreements here but I would say that it depends on how you process and "print" your photos. If you use Photoshop at all then there is no excuse (in my mind) for not shooting in color mode II.

This is my opinion but shooting in modes I and III are for jpeg snapshooters looking to get quick output with minimal post processing. There's nothing wrong with that. If this is your style then shoot mode I for skin tones and mode III for enhanced color saturation.
--
Mike Dawson
 
In the month of June and July I mostly shoot JPEG and want the fastest post processing. I tkae photos and make DVDs for our swim team (has 100 swimmers) and both softball and baseball DVDs. It means that I take thousands of photos over the 2 months trying to get at least a couple good ones of each kid doing a great stroke and also some social photos. So for these 2 months I need speed.

Now as soon as these 2 months are over I go to wanting the exact best photo I can get using Photoshop.

So I think for these 2 months I will use Color Mode I with enhanced saturation. Afterward I will use Color Mode and cut back on the saturation.

Thanks for the hints/info. I can also depend on this board.
 
Now I'm confused, I have been shooting Mode III, in Raw for the better part of 3 years with great results.

It was my understanding that I is for just shoot & print, but if you want to use programs like CS2 the mode III is the one to use.
Did I have everything wrong?
 
Do you burn those DVDs with images straight out of the camera, no PP at all, not even resizing? If so, then you're on the right track figuring what to shoot in originally.

But if you do something to them, then you can shoot Mode II and convert to I or III at the end. With that many shots, you must have an action somewhere along the way, and the conversion can be automated. Even if you're not doing any kind of mass action, you can make an action that converts and then saves - so it's no more keystrokes per image than saving.

I shoot Mode II for the customary reasons (widest gamut, etc.). The action I use to resize for web use includes conversion to I.

Ken Plotkin
 
I've also been using mode III for a couple of years and PP in Photoshop with excellent results either posting or printing.
--
Rob Lazarus
Golden, Colorado
 
I = Portrait work usually. Gives good skin tones and a great starting point...this is an sRGB color space and can reduce colors that were origonally in the scene.

II = aRGB color space and best used if your going to PP the shot. The color space is considerably larger so colors are more faithfully retained...but looks horrable for web sharing.....so always remember to convert to sRGB before posting on the web or it will look VERY flat and lifeless....but the value of colors retained is worth the conversion step (which takes only a few seconds)

III = Boosted reds and greens usually for landscape work you dont (again) plan much editing in. Skin tones will usually look horrable.

I shoot mostly landscape work so I shoot RAW+jpg in Mode III so my small .jpg files will come out showing what I want....but my RAW converter converts to ProPhotoRGB (an even larger color space so my colors stay intact till I convert my finished product to sRGB for web sharing...or whatever the lab needs for printing).

Color space managment seems like voodo till you get what is happening.

If you have any other questions....ask away.

Roman
--
Schrodinger's cat is alive...no...dead...no...alive.....no, wait....
http://www.pbase.com/romansphotos/
 
I use an iMAC and PS Elements 4. I have not ventured into actions. I started to look into it but ended up not having the time to really figure them out.

I do post processing - mostly crop, maybe a little color, and if I was shooting toward evening a little Noise Ninja.

I would love info/hints/information on actions for iMacs.
 
Then shoot RAW and set the color mode to whatever you want. In post processing, vary the color mode to check which one suits your needs. I tend to shoot everything in color mode I and then for some of the pictures that demand extremely saturated colors, toy with color mode III at the time of post processing.

--
Speed is significant and interesting but accuracy is downright fascinating
http://www.pbase.com/pradipta
 
RomanJohnston said:
I = Portrait work usually. Gives good skin tones and a great
starting point...this is an sRGB color space and can reduce colors
that were origonally in the scene.
Click to expand...
This is a misunderstanding I had for a long time, I now know that the modes are not colour spaces and can be applied in any colour space. You can do that in Nikon Capture when processing RAW by adjusting the Default RGB Colour Space in tools/options/color management and then selecting a colour mode in advanced RAW. As you change mode you will see the effect on the screen and in the curves histogram. (This is different than changing colour space where you will not see any very noticable effect as long as you have colour management set up properly - you only see the effect of different colour spaces when you view in a non colour space aware application like Internet Explorer)
RomanJohnston said:
II = aRGB color space and best used if your going to PP the shot.
The color space is considerably larger so colors are more
faithfully retained...but looks horrable for web sharing.....so
always remember to convert to sRGB before posting on the web or it
will look VERY flat and lifeless....but the value of colors
retained is worth the conversion step (which takes only a few
seconds)

III = Boosted reds and greens usually for landscape work you dont
(again) plan much editing in. Skin tones will usually look horrable.

I shoot mostly landscape work so I shoot RAW+jpg in Mode III so my
small .jpg files will come out showing what I want....but my RAW
converter converts to ProPhotoRGB (an even larger color space so my
colors stay intact till I convert my finished product to sRGB for
web sharing...or whatever the lab needs for printing).

Color space managment seems like voodo till you get what is happening.

If you have any other questions....ask away.

Roman
--
Schrodinger's cat is alive...no...dead...no...alive.....no, wait....
http://www.pbase.com/romansphotos/
Click to expand...
--
Dave
http://www.rosser.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
http://www.pbase.com/dgrosser
 
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