E20Man
Active member
Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a 1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
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Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
The first I might - might - accept; the second not. 24"x36" imples
only 60-70odd pixels/printed inch: too low a rate to be worth
looking at in detail. I'd say.
Even 11"x14" implies only 150-160 pixels/printed inch. Else,
you've hit on something important. My own limit for the E-10 is
10"x8", preferably 8"x6", and use a working minimum of 200
pixels/printed inch. Usinfg a Stylus 1290, by the way.
And I find 200 pixels/printed inch not really satisfting to the
thorough eye even with a decently-sharp shot.
Maybe I'm missing something?
John Bunney
Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
The first I might - might - accept; the second not. 24"x36" imples
only 60-70odd pixels/printed inch: too low a rate to be worth
looking at in detail. I'd say.
Even 11"x14" implies only 150-160 pixels/printed inch. Else,
you've hit on something important. My own limit for the E-10 is
10"x8", preferably 8"x6", and use a working minimum of 200
pixels/printed inch. Usinfg a Stylus 1290, by the way.
And I find 200 pixels/printed inch not really satisfting to the
thorough eye even with a decently-sharp shot.
Maybe I'm missing something?
John Bunney
Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
Hi John,JJNNBB wrote:
And I find 200 pixels/printed inch not really satisfting to the
thorough eye even with a decently-sharp shot.
Maybe I'm missing something?
John Bunney
The first I might - might - accept; the second not. 24"x36" imples
only 60-70odd pixels/printed inch: too low a rate to be worth
looking at in detail. I'd say.
Even 11"x14" implies only 150-160 pixels/printed inch. Else,
you've hit on something important. My own limit for the E-10 is
10"x8", preferably 8"x6", and use a working minimum of 200
pixels/printed inch. Usinfg a Stylus 1290, by the way.
And I find 200 pixels/printed inch not really satisfting to the
thorough eye even with a decently-sharp shot.
Maybe I'm missing something?
John Bunney
Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
I should have been more concise with my question. I meant a print
directly from the camera. I can't use GF because I don't have PS.
However, I do have Lanczos as part of my ACDSee editing package.
Will Lanczos work as well as GF?
You should expect very good results. I routinely have larger prints made from my E-10 files and the results are very mpressive. Going to 11x14 and beyond is very possible with results that will be very comparable to 35mm film to my eyes and over 20 years as a studio owner.Has anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
You should expect very good results. I routinely have larger printsHas anyone with an E-20 made any 11x14 prints? I'd like to buy a
1280 and make up to 11x14 prints, but I'm not sure how they'll turn
out. Is their any visible pixelation or faded appearance?
made from my E-10 files and the results are very mpressive. Going
to 11x14 and beyond is very possible with results that will be very
comparable to 35mm film to my eyes and over 20 years as a studio
owner.
You will need to "res up" the file size, however, so that the dpi
is around 250-300 dpi at the final output size. E-10 files stand up
to bicubic interpolation nicely. For even larger sizes, I like
Genuine Fractals. For anything you can print on an Epson 1280,
though, you should be able to get very nice results by just
interpolating with your image editor. If you do not use Photoshop,
why not try Adobe Photoshop Elements which came with your E-20?
Good luck,
TomJ
You can use GF with Paintshop Pro or Corel Photopaint also. I'm just printing out some prints I did at the lower size of SHQ (comparable to 6 x 8 at 200ppi) at 8 x 10 that I resized in GF. I have to admit I'm very very happy. I am using it with PS, but have used GF with the others before I had PS.I should have been more concise with my question. I meant a print
directly from the camera. I can't use GF because I don't have PS.
However, I do have Lanczos as part of my ACDSee editing package.
Will Lanczos work as well as GF?
With all due respect, I must disagree and sum up your finding as, rubbish.Also, everyone will be happy to know that I had the opportunity to
test out a D1x and D30 last week, and neither was much better in
image quality to my E-10. The E-10 was the most color accurate
straight out of camera, the D30 was the least. The D1x was great
all around, handles very well and is very fast, and yes it does
show better image quality over the E-10. But not that much.
With all due respect, I must disagree and sum up your finding as,
rubbish.
So your opportunity to "test out" these cameras are far from
conclusive. I've been testing out these cameras for a long time.
Please don't misunderstand. This is not a flame. I LOVE my E10 and
will sing praises about it till the sun goes down. I like it so
much I use it the most. But lets be realistic and honest. Lest we
be accused of the same propaganda that runs the Minolta Talk Forum
; )
Kindest Regards,
Jim K
PS. The big machine is closer than you think, Les...
With all due respect, I must disagree and sum up your finding as,
rubbish.
So your opportunity to "test out" these cameras are far from
conclusive. I've been testing out these cameras for a long time.
Please don't misunderstand. This is not a flame. I LOVE my E10 and
will sing praises about it till the sun goes down. I like it so
much I use it the most. But lets be realistic and honest. Lest we
be accused of the same propaganda that runs the Minolta Talk Forum
; )
Kindest Regards,
Jim K
You can use GF with Paintshop Pro or Corel Photopaint also. I'mI should have been more concise with my question. I meant a print
directly from the camera. I can't use GF because I don't have PS.
However, I do have Lanczos as part of my ACDSee editing package.
Will Lanczos work as well as GF?
just printing out some prints I did at the lower size of SHQ
(comparable to 6 x 8 at 200ppi) at 8 x 10 that I resized in GF. I
have to admit I'm very very happy. I am using it with PS, but have
used GF with the others before I had PS.
Diane
With all due respect, I must disagree and sum up your finding as,Also, everyone will be happy to know that I had the opportunity to
test out a D1x and D30 last week, and neither was much better in
image quality to my E-10. The E-10 was the most color accurate
straight out of camera, the D30 was the least. The D1x was great
all around, handles very well and is very fast, and yes it does
show better image quality over the E-10. But not that much.
rubbish.
I happen to own all the cameras you mentioned, and then some. I've
printed a lot from each on my epson 1270 up to 11x17. The E10
definetly does a very nice job, but I have to be completely honest.
The D30 blows it away in dynamic range and tones. It almost looks 3
demensional. Its very rich in color and depth. As good as the E10
is, it can not match the D30. The D1x and the D1h both do better
then the d30. In fact the D1x is capable of producing jaw dropping
prints up to 30x30.
So your opportunity to "test out" these cameras are far from
conclusive. I've been testing out these cameras for a long time.
The D1 a year, the d30, almost a year, the e10, a year, the D1X 2
months, the D1H 1 month.
If I might add that the D30 was the first camera to be directly
compared to film. Many have done extensive side by side tests with
the d30. As far as I know, no one has ever claimed that the E10 was
in this league.
Please don't misunderstand. This is not a flame. I LOVE my E10 and
will sing praises about it till the sun goes down. I like it so
much I use it the most. But lets be realistic and honest. Lest we
be accused of the same propaganda that runs the Minolta Talk Forum
; )
Kindest Regards,
Jim K
Well my terminology may not be accurate. But what I mean to say is that if you look at the d30 print it looks verry much like a film print. There is no hint of digital feel to it. The colors are rich, and more of them. Its very deep in appearance almost 3-D. The E10 has more resolution because of the extra 1MP, and delivers a decent image. There may be more shadow detail in the e10, and perhaps this is dynamic range. I personaly find the d30 to be closer to film. You simply must see the prints for yourself, a computer monitor does it no justice.Jim:
When you say that the D30's dynamic range blows away the E10's,
what do you precisely mean?
No chance of that I'm sure. The D30 is Phil's favorite which he uses personally. So I'm sure it must be my superior comand of the english language at work again.The reason I ask you this, is because Phil's review of the E10,
shows a substantially broader dynamic range than the D30, and some
other camera's, except for the Fuji S1 Pro. E10 was scoring 614:1,
while D30 was scoring 488:1. Only the unbelievable FujiS1 was above
660:1 at much higher ISO speeds.
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0011/00111608dynamicrange.asp
Probably (remote chance), there was a mistake on Phil's part.
Anyway, please let me know how did you quantify the diffirences
between both.
With my kindest regards,
Ferenc
With all due respect, I must disagree and sum up your finding as,Also, everyone will be happy to know that I had the opportunity to
test out a D1x and D30 last week, and neither was much better in
image quality to my E-10. The E-10 was the most color accurate
straight out of camera, the D30 was the least. The D1x was great
all around, handles very well and is very fast, and yes it does
show better image quality over the E-10. But not that much.
rubbish.
I happen to own all the cameras you mentioned, and then some. I've
printed a lot from each on my epson 1270 up to 11x17. The E10
definetly does a very nice job, but I have to be completely honest.
The D30 blows it away in dynamic range and tones. It almost looks 3
demensional. Its very rich in color and depth. As good as the E10
is, it can not match the D30. The D1x and the D1h both do better
then the d30. In fact the D1x is capable of producing jaw dropping
prints up to 30x30.
So your opportunity to "test out" these cameras are far from
conclusive. I've been testing out these cameras for a long time.
The D1 a year, the d30, almost a year, the e10, a year, the D1X 2
months, the D1H 1 month.
If I might add that the D30 was the first camera to be directly
compared to film. Many have done extensive side by side tests with
the d30. As far as I know, no one has ever claimed that the E10 was
in this league.
Please don't misunderstand. This is not a flame. I LOVE my E10 and
will sing praises about it till the sun goes down. I like it so
much I use it the most. But lets be realistic and honest. Lest we
be accused of the same propaganda that runs the Minolta Talk Forum
; )
Kindest Regards,
Jim K