ALL C7000s focus poorly in low light??

Bernard

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I am looking for a small all-around camera that is well made and takes great pictures. I wanted to buy the Canon A620 but, well frankly, it felt a little cheap- even though it appears that it is an excellent camera. The C-7000 appears to fit the bill- inspite of some negatives (for me) such as poor battery life, XD cards (I want a 2 gigs card), and no IS for its fairly long zoom.

However, I know that no camera is perfect and I can accept those faults for such a gem. However, I have seen many posts about how bad the camera is when focusing in doors. Though I probably take around 2:1 more pictures outdoors than in, I still take a substantial number of pics in low light (such as the inside of buildings as a tourist), parties, etc.

Will I find focusing problems unbearable indoors, even at wide angle? I don't need to use the telephoto indoors. Can some of you with C-7000s share your experience? I really had hoped that Olympus would update this model with a few fixes, but it looks like it will never happen this year.

Thanks for any help.
 
I am found the C-7000 focus an little longer in low light.
indoor as long there is one light focus is not an problem.
Also iso 400 is verry usable,and have no halo's.
the panasonics are not usable abouse iso 80
noise noise noise.
the only thing is this camera is not good for action foto's.
whriting speed is to slow.
on the other hand macro and night pictures are verry good.
I have no examples inside but here are some outside.



this one is an 100% crop of the furst one.



good luck

I am looking for a small all-around camera that is well made and takes great pictures. I wanted to buy the Canon A620 but, well frankly, it felt a little cheap- even though it appears that it is an excellent camera. The C-7000 appears to fit the bill- inspite of some negatives (for me) such as poor battery life, XD cards (I want a 2 gigs card), and no IS for its fairly long zoom.

However, I know that no camera is perfect and I can accept those faults for such a gem. However, I have seen many posts about how bad the camera is when focusing in doors. Though I probably take around 2:1 more pictures outdoors than in, I still take a substantial number of pics in low light (such as the inside of buildings as a tourist), parties, etc.

Will I find focusing problems unbearable indoors, even at wide angle? I don't need to use the telephoto indoors. Can some of you with C-7000s share your experience? I really had hoped that Olympus would update this model with a few fixes, but it looks like it will never happen this year.

Thanks for any help.

--
Demarren
Using Olympus E-10 E-300 And FZ5
Website http://demarren.zoto.com/
 
there is an update on the website 1.0
the new one is 1.1
you need to install camedia master,then camera update
you camera must be conected with the usb cable to the computer.
and the software will install automatic.
ps it take an 4 to 5 minut to install it.
if you have problems.
then you can mail me klik on my name abouve.
its an good camera you wil see,and the build qailitie is exelent.

--
Demarren
Using Olympus E-10 E-300 And FZ5 C7000
Website http://demarren.zoto.com/
 
Thank you for responding, Demarren. I am afraid of not being able to focus at all if, for example, I take an indoor picture of a dimly lit church or at a childrens' birthday party. How do you best ensure that you are able to get focus?

Also, I heard that focus and shutter lag are actually very short. Would a faster xd card (or are there no slower and faster ones) speed the write speed up?
 
It depent focus at wide angle will work just fine
but focus at 190 MM will have problems.

I have found even when the peaple ar far away you need to set it in macro to get an lock at max zoom.the problem is not low light.
I think its the end of the lens thad give the problem.
I have tested the C-7000 and i have an lock in almost compleet darkness.

The writing time so far I know make no diference if you use an fast or slow card.

I think you will better of with the fuji F10
usable iso to 800 can go up to iso 1600
or wait an little for the F11 coming soon.
If you plan to use it almost indoor.

good luck,with ever your choise may be :)

Thank you for responding, Demarren. I am afraid of not being able to focus at all if, for example, I take an indoor picture of a dimly lit church or at a childrens' birthday party. How do you best ensure that you are able to get focus?

Also, I heard that focus and shutter lag are actually very short. Would a faster xd card (or are there no slower and faster ones) speed the write speed up?

--
Demarren
Using Olympus E-10 E-300 And FZ5 C7000
Website http://demarren.zoto.com/
 
Hello Bernard,
I am looking for a small all-around camera that is well made and
takes great pictures. I wanted to buy the Canon A620 but, well
frankly, it felt a little cheap- even though it appears that it is
an excellent camera. The C-7000 appears to fit the bill- inspite
of some negatives (for me) such as poor battery life, XD cards (I
want a 2 gigs card), and no IS for its fairly long zoom.
I actually find the battery life of the C7000 to be quite good, relative to some other cameras I've owned.
However, I know that no camera is perfect and I can accept those
faults for such a gem. However, I have seen many posts about how
bad the camera is when focusing in doors. Though I probably take
around 2:1 more pictures outdoors than in, I still take a
substantial number of pics in low light (such as the inside of
buildings as a tourist), parties, etc.

Will I find focusing problems unbearable indoors, even at wide
angle? I don't need to use the telephoto indoors. Can some of you
with C-7000s share your experience? I really had hoped that
Olympus would update this model with a few fixes, but it looks like
it will never happen this year.
The C-7000 focuses fine at the wide-angle end in pretty much all lighting situations I've encountered. You mentioned church interiors in one of your posts in this thread. I've been able to take sharp handheld shots of church interiors, for example, at 1/30th, f/2.8 ISO400 that came out very nice.
Thanks for any help.
Best of luck whatever you decide. I think that for the price nowadays, it would be hard to find a better value.

Kind Regards,
--
Brian



Digital Image Gallery:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/spiritmist/Brian_G_Digital_Image_Gallery/index.htm
 
I had the Oly for a while but returned the C7000 because of its slow indoor focus.

I took it to a reasonably lit room and people complained about the red light in their faces.

I tried a lot of macros and without flash had a lot of problems.

It is a brilliant camera in terms of image quality, but to me, best with flash.

I recently bought the F10 but will be selling it privately or on Ebay at a great loss. Much better in low light.

I have it under 2 weeks but will wait for the F11 now of the new
SP models or Sony compact release.

The F10 does as advertised, and there are settings for nearly automatic usage. I does best manually, tho. Full manual is not available, I mean setting ISO by yourself.

I will likely be paying more for a camera now since selling my F10 and assessories will be a real loss for me-but I can e-mail photos to you from both cameras.I am sure my 'replacement' camera will be more like $500.

Or, visit my website and look in the Just Testing Gallery.

Best of luck!

Linda

http://www.quirky.smugmug.com
 
Regardless of what camera you get - from the highly acclaimed Canon 1Ds Mk II on one end - to the lowliest digicam on the other, it is the operator that determines the final image output to a large degree. The key here is to learn the camera - developing a feel, if you will, for all aspects of the camera. Learn to understand how the focusing reacts...how the meter will read various lighting levels...and the strengths and weaknesses of the unit and how they affect image quality.

Having said that, I tend to look for the strengths in each camera that I own (or have owned...which numbers close to 32 at this stage of the game). Now enter the C7000 - a visual and balanced work of art, IMO, and yes like all other cameras, it has some weaknesses (as Gomer Pyle would say, "surprise, surprise...")

What I've found about the C7000 (and why I am putting it among my collection of keepers) are the following:

1. In my hands at least I've found that the C7000 is capable of images that can give many a DSLR a run for its money - it's that good. And I shoot RAW with the C7000. The shots have a wonderful tonality and clarity that I find refreshing - again, a tremendous keeper of a camera.

2. Build quality - a tough champagne aluminum build quality - unique for its genre, balances well and just feels...well, very good.

3. Optionset - many options to choose from to include RAW.

4. Focusing - like the majority of other digicams on the market, the C7000 performs superbly in regular light and even assorted low light scenarios (provided enough contrast is available for focusing). If the light is extremely low and the sensors cannot lock on to an object(s) with enough contrast, then (like others) it will hunt. I just recompose and I wind up getting the shot. I find it better IMO than the C8080 and that's saying something because the C8080 has become a classic for superb image quality (but very slow focusing).

5. ISO scenarios - From the lowest to the highest ISO on this camera (400), you will be quite delighted. Yes, there's some noise at 400, but compared to just about every other digicam out there (save the Fuji F10 and a few others - with one Canon included), the C7000 holds its own.

Tips to ensure you get near DSLR-like image quality:

a. Stability, stability, stability - achieved with the likes of either a good tripod or a good monopod. I tend to enjoy the Manfrotto line of monopods and use a Manfrotto compact quick release plate swivel head. I find that by using a good monopod (get a sturdy compact one) it ensures that the images will be as sharp as can be. I do not trust hand-held scenarios at all, unless I am braced against something, or laying down, or leaning my arms against something vertical. This is perhaps one of the most essential elements of shooting with any camera - stability - yet, so many folks seem to overlook this. Then they go off pouting about poor image quality and how they can't seem to get things sharp enough...go figure!

b. Know the subject material that complements the digicam - and fast moving kids indoors just "ain't" one of them, trust me. The C7000 will pleasantly shock you with the quality of its images for scenic, people (not running), special events, or just about everything else out there. In the military we used to use the term "using the equipment within its design envelope," and so it is with cameras.

c. Know the weather conditions. Shooting on bright overcast days with haze will guarantee (usually) underexposed images, noise, an unattractive flatness in the images, etc. This will happen with virtually any camera out there, trust me.

Okay, I'm done - you can see I just had a cup of coffee and the caffeine has taken over - I've become a little too voluble here.

Anyway, good luck...

Regards,

Ben

 
Regardless of what camera you get - from the highly acclaimed Canon
1Ds Mk II on one end - to the lowliest digicam on the other, it is
the operator that determines the final image output to a large
degree. The key here is to learn the camera - developing a feel,
if you will, for all aspects of the camera. Learn to understand
how the focusing reacts...how the meter will read various lighting
levels...and the strengths and weaknesses of the unit and how they
affect image quality.

2. Build quality - a tough champagne aluminum build quality -
unique for its genre, balances well and just feels...well, very
good.
4. Focusing - like the majority of other digicams on the market,
the C7000 performs superbly in regular light and even assorted low
light scenarios (provided enough contrast is available for
focusing). If the light is extremely low and the sensors cannot
lock on to an object(s) with enough contrast, then (like others) it

b. Know the subject material that complements the digicam - and
fast moving kids indoors just "ain't" one of them, trust me. The
C7000 will pleasantly shock you with the quality of its images for
scenic, people (not running), special events, or just about
everything else out there. In the military we used to use the term
"using the equipment within its design envelope," and so it is with
cameras.
Okay, I'm done - you can see I just had a cup of coffee and the
caffeine has taken over - I've become a little too voluble here.

Wow, Ben!! Gotta cut back on that Java! :-) But you made a lot of good points in your hyper state, and I thank you for your reply. I definitely agree with your comments that it is the photographer who makes the picture. However, I am looking at the camera that will make it easiest for me. (I don't mean by that point 'n shoot but a camera that has the fewest quirks possible so that I can concentrate on taking pictures.)

My biggest concern was whether it is very difficult (even at 50mm setting), to get focus indoors. I don't have to run after small kids anymore (just tag-teaming with my wife as a taxi cab driver for two teenagers). But I don't want to get a lot of blurry pictures because the camera can't focus. I am aware of other reasons for blurry pictures such as too slow a shutter speed, including being unaware of the effects that the telescopic end of the camera can have.

I am looking for small, well-built, manual controls, and a greater than 3x zoom. I am more concerned in having a longer tele rather than a wider wide angle. The C-7000 appears to fit the bill, but the jury still seems to be out in regards to focusing ability with people strongly arguing both sides. The other camera I am considering is the Canon A620 but it feels somewhat cheap to me and has a shorter zoom. However, it may be the best compromise for my needs. I just keep going back and forth; back and forth....
Bernard
 
I had the Oly for a while but returned the C7000 because of its
slow indoor focus.

I took it to a reasonably lit room and people complained about the
red light in their faces.

I tried a lot of macros and without flash had a lot of problems.

It is a brilliant camera in terms of image quality, but to me, best
with flash.
Thank you Lynn; You are voicing my biggest fears (sighhh..). I will definitely take a look at your gallery- after I get some sleep first.
Bernard
 
'cause the C7000 is difficult to get a hold of anymore - other than refurbished (which I personally wouldn't recommend). So if the C7000 is considered within the mix, make your decision now (or yesterday) so you can find a copy somewhere. Olympus lists the camera as part of its line, but it is being discontinued shortly.
--
Regards,

Ben

 
I went to the store today.
and tell them the bad focus problem.
the guy at the deck say bad focus lets see.
we tryed some pictures in the store the came out good.
hmm wonder how thad came
I say hi guy wat thid I whron.
well the c-7000 is maked for use with the lcd and not the viewfinder.
indeed on the lcd the picture lock fast,but the red led flashing all the time.
I toucht the red lite was the focus ,it is not the focus but the flash.
Man I say why you tell me thad before.
I thid some test today at max zoom and in low light.
the camera thid fine.
but you need to look true the lcd instead of the viewfinder.
there is no way you can see it otherwize.
I also tryed tele macro.in low light.
it work fine to.
I also used raw,tif,and jpeg.
the raw pictures came verry good out of the camera.
so afteral an good camera.

--
Demarren
Using Olympus E-10 E-300 And FZ5 C7000
Website http://demarren.zoto.com/
 
'cause the C7000 is difficult to get a hold of anymore - other than
refurbished (which I personally wouldn't recommend). So if the
C7000 is considered within the mix, make your decision now (or
yesterday) so you can find a copy somewhere. Olympus lists the
camera as part of its line, but it is being discontinued shortly.
That's interesting, Ben. I wonder if they will have a replacement model that takes care of some of the problems- especially the focusing. :-) I am afraid, however, that they may simply add more pixels and make the camera larger. Maybe there will be no replacement at all since I have some doubts about Olympus announcing anymore new major cameras this year.
 
1stly --- I've always admired the C5500 because of the image quality and zoom range, tried a friends and it's an excellent camera ! .

2ndly --- I picked up a Canon S70 for my mother (legendary G6 image quality) and it even was a good example which didn't blur the edges out too bad at 28mm but being F5.1 at a not too long 100mm meant that in the typical UK weather, it was limited to the wide end or just a bit of zoom.. Sent it back (it was a Demo model classed as used)

3rdly --- I Discounted the C70 (C7000) because it was way expensive in the UK (£300 as opposed to £239 for the new Canon A620) but apart from that, was very impressed with the C5500's older big brother - anyway we've found a mint used one (part-exed for a Canon 5D of all things!) at a dealer I use a lot for used lenses, boxed as new for a price which makes me forget any feelings of paying £239 for an A620 ..

the C70 is F4.8 which is slow again but a far longer 190mm (almost twice that of the S70) and at 140mm isn't likely to be much slower than the A620 and going by the review would appear to handle Noise better (less aggressive NR than the A620 - better at high ISOs than the S70) - even the downer of horrid XD cards is abated by that I found that I have a 256Mb one kicking about from the backup slot of the C8080 after I passed it on to my brother (he hated the G6 and wanted another C8080 so I let him have mine after getting my CP8800) ..

Anyway, we'll give this a go - if it's as sprightly as the C5500 and holdable at 3X zoom then it'll do her fine - if you have any setup tips, we'd be grateful - I guess that it doesn't buffer RAWs like the C8080 doesn't..

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
I have a c70/7000 and nearly returned it for this very reason. Compared it to a number of other 'pocketable' cams, with the Fuji F810 the other top contender (wanted more than std 3x zoom) which definately focused faster in low light. However the picture quality from the Olympus won me over, and the superb spec is a bonus.

The focus is only slow in low light at the telephoto end, but crucially it's accurate, where sme of the others are not quite so good. And the issue of the focus assist light is not a big one as it can be turned off...
 
The focus is only slow in low light at the telephoto end, but
crucially it's accurate
Most cameras fail totally indoors at the telephoto end, my canon S500 does as does the S70 , the C8080 and CP8800 will hunt for a long time and either accurately focus or fail ..

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
I think you'll be impressed just holding it. It has a fine quality feel to it and that champagne colored aluminum body is really, really nice. I haven't done any JPG shooting with mine - just RAW and I was impressed. Of course, with you being a Pro, you have other areas you focus on, so I'll be curious to see what your comments are about the C70 (C7000).

Regards,

Ben

 
I think you'll be impressed just holding it. It has a fine quality
feel to it and that champagne colored aluminum body is really,
really nice.
I'll be thoroughly testing it out before I hand it over to Ma of course, even though it was herself whop deemed the S70 unfit, I guessed she'd be shooting full wide all the time and cropping but as ful wide was 28mm (rather than the 35mm she was used to with the S400), it would have needed a bit too much cropping and she used the zoom resulting in shakey pics (F5.1 at 100mm) - she was OK with the S400 amazingly
other areas you focus on, so I'll be curious to see what your
comments are about the C70 (C7000).
I'll post them, the only thing that amazes me is that it doesn't have the deep grip of the C5500 - I liked that in a small camera and was impressed with it when a friend brought one around - Ma needs the rez and ISO performance of the 7Mp ones though ..

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
What RAW converter do you use with it (RSE?, it worked well with the S70) and how is it for time dumping RAWs to card? - the 8080 and my CP8800 are too slow writing to be bothered with RAW but luckily they have top notch JPG engines.

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
I seem to get my best work (well, best as far as I'm concerned) by using Adobe ACR. Perhaps it's because I'm accustomed to using it. I liked Silky Pix (when it was a Beta), but damn if I'm going to pay another $150 USD just for a RAW converter. Heck, I already have Phase One Capture One LE, Olympus Studio, RSE, and a few others. But I tend to keep coming back to ACR. Studio is nice. I really admire Silky Pix - but again, I've reached a blocking point with software.

Regards,

Ben

 

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