horizontal lines across image ??? using FLASH

[Chris Dera]

HI ALL

so i was shooting some portraits yesterday for the first time.

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

Why is That?

Please Help

 

[briantii]

HI ALL

so i was shooting some portraits yesterday for the first time.

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

Why is That?

Please Help

Wonder if you were going too fast since the flash pulses in hss. Does it happen if you just shoot at shutter sync speed? Usually with flash you don’t need high shutter speeds to keep an image sharp.

 

[lehill]

HI ALL

so i was shooting some portraits yesterday for the first time.

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

Why is That?

Please Help

HSS is a logical prime suspect. Can you shoot the same ambient scene just using regular flash?

Some more details sure would help. Camera & flash model? Settings? Any weird or special ambient conditions?

--
Lance H

 

[Gerry Winterbourne]

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/ Note the phrase I've underlined.

"High-Speed Sync

... It’s not perfect, but it does work. It’s called High-Speed Sync, also known as Focal Plane Sync. High-Speed Sync (HSS) works in a unique way. Instead of firing the flash at the start of the shot, HSS pulses the flash throughout the whole exposure, trying to simulate the effects of a continuous light."

For short exposures the two curtains of the shutter are very close behind each other, with only a narrow slit open as the shutter crosses the sensor. What you are seeing is the series of light pulses as the shutter slit moves across the sensor.

--
---
Gerry
___________________________________________
First camera 1953, first Pentax 1985, first DSLR 2006

Galleries by Gerry Winterbourne

www.pbase.com

[email protected]

 

[Snowfella]

Guessing with an A7 series camera being listed that it was shot with that, if so EFCS and HSS flash can cause banding.
Turn off EFCS and it should all be gone.

 

[PhotoTeach2]

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/ Note the phrase I've underlined.

"High-Speed Sync

... It’s not perfect, but it does work. It’s called High-Speed Sync, also known as Focal Plane Sync. High-Speed Sync (HSS) works in a unique way. Instead of firing the flash at the start of the shot, HSS pulses the flash throughout the whole exposure, trying to simulate the effects of a continuous light."

For short exposures the two curtains of the shutter are very close behind each other, with only a narrow slit open as the shutter crosses the sensor. What you are seeing is the series of light pulses as the shutter slit moves across the sensor.

--
---
Gerry
___________________________________________
First camera 1953, first Pentax 1985, first DSLR 2006
http://www.pbase.com/gerrywinterbourne
[email protected]

A somewhat MISLEADING article link because he never mentions the GN "halves" with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS.

Notice his best images are VERY close, and one of his images with (2-stop robbing) soft-modifier shows almost no-flash effect at all. The only distance shot was under overcast so he could shoot @ 1/1000, (instead of 1/4000s).

Only a "LEAF" shutter can allow 1/4000s higher GN, (albeit it still is limited by HIGH-power strobes that may have flash-durations in the 1/1000s range).

I have found I can use the built-in (GN-48) strobe on FZ-1000 & 2000/2500 to a SUN-light effective range 15+'.

HSS cannot do this, (except maybe a GN-200' @ f/2.8).

 

[tedolf]

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/ Note the phrase I've underlined.

"High-Speed Sync

... It’s not perfect, but it does work. It’s called High-Speed Sync, also known as Focal Plane Sync. High-Speed Sync (HSS) works in a unique way. Instead of firing the flash at the start of the shot, HSS pulses the flash throughout the whole exposure, trying to simulate the effects of a continuous light."

For short exposures the two curtains of the shutter are very close behind each other, with only a narrow slit open as the shutter crosses the sensor. What you are seeing is the series of light pulses as the shutter slit moves across the sensor.

--
---
Gerry
___________________________________________
First camera 1953, first Pentax 1985, first DSLR 2006
http://www.pbase.com/gerrywinterbourne
[email protected]

A somewhat MISLEADING article link because he never mentions the GN "halves" with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS.

Notice his best images are VERY close, and one of his images with (2-stop robbing) soft-modifier shows almost no-flash effect at all. The only distance shot was under overcast so he could shoot @ 1/1000, (instead of 1/4000s).

Only a "LEAF" shutter can allow 1/4000s higher GN,

Please stop. Using a leaf shutter does NOT increase the Guide Number of a flash. Using HSS decreases the effective GN of a flash, but using a camera with a leaf shutter does not magically increase the GN of a flash!

(albeit it still is limited by HIGH-power strobes that may have flash-durations in the 1/1000s range).

I have found I can use the built-in (GN-48) strobe on FZ-1000 & 2000/2500 to a SUN-light effective range 15+'.

And you can also use GN 48 stobes on a focal plane shutter camera in sun at 15' if you stay within the sync. range of the shutter.

HSS cannot do this, (except maybe a GN-200' @ f/2.8).

Tedolph

 

[PhotoTeach2]

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/ Note the phrase I've underlined.

"High-Speed Sync

... It’s not perfect, but it does work. It’s called High-Speed Sync, also known as Focal Plane Sync. High-Speed Sync (HSS) works in a unique way. Instead of firing the flash at the start of the shot, HSS pulses the flash throughout the whole exposure, trying to simulate the effects of a continuous light."

For short exposures the two curtains of the shutter are very close behind each other, with only a narrow slit open as the shutter crosses the sensor. What you are seeing is the series of light pulses as the shutter slit moves across the sensor.

--
---
Gerry
___________________________________________
First camera 1953, first Pentax 1985, first DSLR 2006
http://www.pbase.com/gerrywinterbourne
[email protected]

A somewhat MISLEADING article link because he never mentions the GN "halves" with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS.

Notice his best images are VERY close, and one of his images with (2-stop robbing) soft-modifier shows almost no-flash effect at all. The only distance shot was under overcast so he could shoot @ 1/1000, (instead of 1/4000s).

Only a "LEAF" shutter can allow 1/4000s higher GN,

Please stop. Using a leaf shutter does NOT increase the Guide Number of a flash. Using HSS decreases the effective GN of a flash, but using a camera with a leaf shutter does not magically increase the GN of a flash!

First of all I typed this on a cell-phone and admit I could not clearify it after it was entered.

BUT ... you also are (deliberately) not absorbing the intended CONTEXT.

I CLEARLY first stated that "GN halves with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS".

But I agree I should not have stated "higher" GN ... BUT INSTEAD ... and YOU KNOW I meant a higher "EFFECTIVE/REMAINING" GN, (which is not "halved w/ each subsequent SS-stop increase as HSS does").

And while I will allow that you stated: HSS decreases the effective GN of a flash, you don't indicate HOW DRASTIC that decrease can be, (halved w/ each subsequent SS-stop increase).

(albeit it still is limited by HIGH-power strobes that may have flash-durations in the 1/1000s range).

And notice that I was also being completely fair & honest by not stating 1/4000s always allows the "highest" GN -- because indeed the highest-power strobes will indeed still lose "some" effective GN beyond 1/1000s.

I have found I can use the built-in (GN-48) strobe on FZ-1000 & 2000/2500 to a SUN-light effective range 15+'.

And you can also use GN 48 stobes on a focal plane shutter camera in sun at 15' if you stay within the sync. range of the shutter.

NO YOU CANNOT @ 15' ... (at least not "effective") ... as the article does mention, Sunny-16 Rule limits SUN-light to f/11 @ 1/250, (actually he states an even more limiting f/stops of f/16 & 22).

GN-48' / f/11 = 4.36' (or GN-48' / f/22 = 2')

So you are mathematically wrong to say you would "see" any usable effect @ 15', (almost 4-stops under-exposed).

Note that I have posted images proving GN-48 SUN-light effects @ 15', (and even 30' -- albeit not "full" effect because it was indeed then 1-stop under).

HSS cannot do this, (except maybe a GN-200' @ f/2.8).

I am simply saying that the link/article "glamorizes" HSS, and while he admits it is not "perfect", I suggest it is worse and more limiting than he indicates, and anyone considering HSS SHOULD KNOW THAT.

Remember this is a "BEGINNERS" forum and they should understand the inherent limitations of HSS compared to the huge advantage of "LEAF" shutters, (which indeed was often the main reason PROFESSIONALS used cameras w/ LEAF shutters).

So yes ... ILC cameras have advantages ... but "LEAF" shutters also have advantages, (especially if in a wide "continuously"-zoomable lens that covers the entire FL range someone may need in an ILC).

The bottom line is that HSS has NO ADVANTAGE over LEAF shutter because while HSS does allow f/2.8 in SUN-light, (albeit ONLY at very short-range), LEAF shutters can ALSO DO THAT ... (and at either short-range OR @ longer-range out to 15+').

Note that another UNIQUE advantage of LEAF shutters is the ability to darken "backgrounds" with closer subjects. I suggest this can be used to creative advantage. (example below)

Maybe this will all be eventually settled w/ "global" electronic-shutters that will allow higher sync speeds, (similar to Nikons older electronic-shutters in the D70 - D1x line of cameras several years ago).




in SUN-light @ 1/4000s @ f/8

 

[briantii]

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/ Note the phrase I've underlined.

"High-Speed Sync

... It’s not perfect, but it does work. It’s called High-Speed Sync, also known as Focal Plane Sync. High-Speed Sync (HSS) works in a unique way. Instead of firing the flash at the start of the shot, HSS pulses the flash throughout the whole exposure, trying to simulate the effects of a continuous light."

For short exposures the two curtains of the shutter are very close behind each other, with only a narrow slit open as the shutter crosses the sensor. What you are seeing is the series of light pulses as the shutter slit moves across the sensor.

--
---
Gerry
___________________________________________
First camera 1953, first Pentax 1985, first DSLR 2006
http://www.pbase.com/gerrywinterbourne
[email protected]

A somewhat MISLEADING article link because he never mentions the GN "halves" with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS.

Notice his best images are VERY close, and one of his images with (2-stop robbing) soft-modifier shows almost no-flash effect at all. The only distance shot was under overcast so he could shoot @ 1/1000, (instead of 1/4000s).

Only a "LEAF" shutter can allow 1/4000s higher GN,

Please stop. Using a leaf shutter does NOT increase the Guide Number of a flash. Using HSS decreases the effective GN of a flash, but using a camera with a leaf shutter does not magically increase the GN of a flash!

First of all I typed this on a cell-phone and admit I could not clearify it after it was entered.

BUT ... you also are (deliberately) not absorbing the intended CONTEXT.

I CLEARLY first stated that "GN halves with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS".

But I agree I should not have stated "higher" GN ... BUT INSTEAD ... and YOU KNOW I meant a higher "EFFECTIVE/REMAINING" GN, (which is not "halved w/ each subsequent SS-stop increase as HSS does").

And while I will allow that you stated: HSS decreases the effective GN of a flash, you don't indicate HOW DRASTIC that decrease can be, (halved w/ each subsequent SS-stop increase).

(albeit it still is limited by HIGH-power strobes that may have flash-durations in the 1/1000s range).

And notice that I was also being completely fair & honest by not stating 1/4000s always allows the "highest" GN -- because indeed the highest-power strobes will indeed still lose "some" effective GN beyond 1/1000s.

I have found I can use the built-in (GN-48) strobe on FZ-1000 & 2000/2500 to a SUN-light effective range 15+'.

And you can also use GN 48 stobes on a focal plane shutter camera in sun at 15' if you stay within the sync. range of the shutter.

NO YOU CANNOT @ 15' ... (at least not "effective") ... as the article does mention, Sunny-16 Rule limits SUN-light to f/11 @ 1/250, (actually he states an even more limiting f/stops of f/16 & 22).

GN-48' / f/11 = 4.36' (or GN-48' / f/22 = 2')

So you are mathematically wrong to say you would "see" any usable effect @ 15', (almost 4-stops under-exposed).

Note that I have posted images proving GN-48 SUN-light effects @ 15', (and even 30' -- albeit not "full" effect because it was indeed then 1-stop under).

HSS cannot do this, (except maybe a GN-200' @ f/2.8).

I am simply saying that the link/article "glamorizes" HSS, and while he admits it is not "perfect", I suggest it is worse and more limiting than he indicates, and anyone considering HSS SHOULD KNOW THAT.

Remember this is a "BEGINNERS" forum and they should understand the inherent limitations of HSS compared to the huge advantage of "LEAF" shutters, (which indeed was often the main reason PROFESSIONALS used cameras w/ LEAF shutters).

So yes ... ILC cameras have advantages ... but "LEAF" shutters also have advantages, (especially if in a wide "continuously"-zoomable lens that covers the entire FL range someone may need in an ILC).

The bottom line is that HSS has NO ADVANTAGE over LEAF shutter because while HSS does allow f/2.8 in SUN-light, (albeit ONLY at very short-range), LEAF shutters can ALSO DO THAT ... (and at either short-range OR @ longer-range out to 15+').

Note that another UNIQUE advantage of LEAF shutters is the ability to darken "backgrounds" with closer subjects. I suggest this can be used to creative advantage. (example below)

Maybe this will all be eventually settled w/ "global" electronic-shutters that will allow higher sync speeds, (similar to Nikons older electronic-shutters in the D70 - D1x line of cameras several years ago).


in SUN-light @ 1/4000s @ f/8

Stop bringing up leaf shutters or Panasonic bridge cameras. The op can't retrofit leaf shutter on a Sony A7 so your post is a pointless distraction.

The same op showed another flash shot with hss in another thread with 1/2500. We all know that is probably not ideal. The efcs option is another good place to start. This persin isn't asking what camera to buy, just how to get good results from what they own, which will be easy with the right settings.

Give Panasonic a rest man. You make them look bad.

 

[PhotoTeach2]

This is a "beginners" forum.

There was a link to a "misleading" promotion of HSS that could errorously lead "beginners" to think HSS was an equivalent to a native high-sync speed.

I originally ONLY stated, (to "beginners"), that HSS has (very) limited use because the effective GN is halved with every SS-stop increase, (and thus provides even "less" effective distance in SUN-light).

Because of a minor error, (which I could not later correct), I implied that a "leaf" shutter "increased" the GN, (which it does not EXCEPT in comparison to a HSS "reduced" usable GN).

Because I was challenged over a minor error, (which I submit most people probably understood the total context anyway), I felt the need to more FULLY explain.

*********************

But I repeat that this is a "BEGINNERS" forum and I submit that 99% of "beginners" here are not even aware of leaf shutters and their advantages.

I apologize to the OP if he was indeed aware of the differences between FP & LEAF shutters, and I insulted his intelligence. That was NOT the intent.

But the link/article WAS misleading, and "beginners" should know it.

 

[Gerry Winterbourne]

This is a "beginners" forum.

There was a link to a "misleading" promotion of HSS that could errorously lead "beginners" to think HSS was an equivalent to a native high-sync speed.

No it doesn't. The whole article is about dealing with cameras whose sync speed is about 1/200s. A beginner with that type of camera can't be misled because the article describes his situation. A beginner with a camera with native high speed sync won't suffer the problem so won't go looking for a solution.

 

[Gerry Winterbourne]

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/

A somewhat MISLEADING article link because he never mentions the GN "halves" with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS.

What do you mean by "misleading"? Its normal meaning is that it leads someone to believe something that's untrue, but there's nothing in the article to lead anyone to any conclusion about Guide Number (this is a beginners forum so just using initials without explanation isn't much use).

Notice his best images are VERY close, and one of his images with (2-stop robbing) soft-modifier shows almost no-flash effect at all. The only distance shot was under overcast so he could shoot @ 1/1000, (instead of 1/4000s).

The article is about a particular type of picture and the illustrations are that type of picture. Nothing misleading there.

The technique, of course, like every other technique is limited in its application. But including a list of every possible limitation is more likely to confuse than illuminate ...

I have found I can use the built-in (GN-48) strobe on FZ-1000 & 2000/2500 to a SUN-light effective range 15+'.

... for example, small-sensor cameras have limitations that include restricted ability to give shallow depth of field and restricted ability to capture low light; but you fail to mention those. Either the article isn't misleading or your comment is even more misleading.

 

[Michael Fryd]

HI ALL

so i was shooting some portraits yesterday for the first time.

I used a flash on wireless mode and HSS so i can get a fast shutter speed.

And what i notice are those horizontal lines on all of my images?

Why is That?

Please Help

As others have mentioned, HSS seems like an obvious cause. In this mode the flash pulsates rapidly as the shutter slit moves across the sensor.

What brand of flash are you using? If it is a third party flash, it may not have a good implementation of HSS.



Why do you want a fast shutter speed? If you are trying to stop motion, you are usually better off using a slower speed and turning off HSS.

 

[tedolf]

This is a "beginners" forum.

There was a link to a "misleading" promotion of HSS that could errorously lead "beginners" to think HSS was an equivalent to a native high-sync speed.

I originally ONLY stated, (to "beginners"), that HSS has (very) limited use because the effective GN is halved with every SS-stop increase, (and thus provides even "less" effective distance in SUN-light).

Because of a minor error, (which I could not later correct), I implied that a "leaf" shutter "increased" the GN, (which it does not EXCEPT in comparison to a HSS "reduced" usable GN).

You have repeatedly stated in this forum that a leaf shutter increases the Guide Number.

That is false.

That has to stop.

Because I was challenged over a minor error, (which I submit most people probably understood the total context anyway), I felt the need to more FULLY explain.

*********************

But I repeat that this is a "BEGINNERS" forum and I submit that 99% of "beginners" here are not even aware of leaf shutters and their advantages.

There is not a lot to explain. Using High Speed Sync. decreases the effective guide number of a flash as the shutter speed increases beyond the sync. range of the shutter, leaf or otherwise (and not all leaf shutters have super fast sync. speeds, some are only 1/500, not much different than the 1/320 sec on my E-p5).

So what? As long as the subject is still within the flash range according to GN=distance * aperture it doesn't matter.

You appear to be purposely obfuscating things.

I apologize to the OP if he was indeed aware of the differences between FP & LEAF shutters, and I insulted his intelligence. That was NOT the intent.

But the link/article WAS misleading, and "beginners" should know it.

TEdolph

 

[PhotoTeach2]

This is a "beginners" forum.

There was a link to a "misleading" promotion of HSS that could errorously lead "beginners" to think HSS was an equivalent to a native high-sync speed.

No it doesn't. The whole article is about dealing with cameras whose sync speed is about 1/200s. A beginner with that type of camera can't be misled because the article describes his situation. A beginner with a camera with native high speed sync won't suffer the problem so won't go looking for a solution.

I suggest it is very misleading to a "beginner" when he NEVER admits the GN (drastically) reduces (1-stop) with every 1-stop SS increase.

His example shots are done with a GN-300' strobe and his max distance for that (high-power) strobe was only about 8', (and that was @ dusk so he could use f/1.4).

I suggest many/most "beginners" either must rely on their built-in strobe or a approximately GN-60' external strobe. (Do YOU have a GN-300 strobe -- or f/1.4 lens -- I suggest most "beginners" DON'T ???)

I personally have Metz-60 but even that is only GN-200 so I would not have been able to duplicate this article. (did have a f/1.2 lens but got stolen)

I repeat again that BEGINNERS should be INFORMED about the advantages of "leaf" shutters for either today or tomorrows purchasing decisions, (indeed one of the main reasons professionals often used MF w/ "leaf" shutters).

Instead of only 8' w/ GN-300 strobe, a "leaf" shutter allows up to 17+' with a more commonly available GN-48 @ f/2.8. (impossible w/ HSS)

AND ... it allows 1/4000s @ f/8-16 to "darken" backgrounds in SUN-light with closer subjects. (also impossible w/ HSS).

So while I am not doubting what he specifically did, I suggest he "glorified" HSS by using strobe powers beyond "beginners" and would also require beyond beginners "skill" to achieve.

He also suggested using ND filters, (w/ flash in SUN-light). But again he used a "close" example w/out fully explaining that indeed it could ONLY be done at close-range becaue the ND also reduces the effective GN.

So while I admit that LEAF shutters do not "increase" GN, it does allow "FULL" GN, (until your SS is shorter than the flash-duration -- (which indeed can be >1/1000 at FULL-power w/ highest-power strobes).

 

[PhotoTeach2]

This is a "beginners" forum.

There was a link to a "misleading" promotion of HSS that could errorously lead "beginners" to think HSS was an equivalent to a native high-sync speed.

I originally ONLY stated, (to "beginners"), that HSS has (very) limited use because the effective GN is halved with every SS-stop increase, (and thus provides even "less" effective distance in SUN-light).

Because of a minor error, (which I could not later correct), I implied that a "leaf" shutter "increased" the GN, (which it does not EXCEPT in comparison to a HSS "reduced" usable GN).

You have repeatedly stated in this forum that a leaf shutter increases the Guide Number.

That is false.

That has to stop.

I admit that I did use "higher" (GN) in my PHONE post, (which I later could not change from "mobile" site).

BUT ... that was in the CONTEXT where I had just prior stated the HSS GN is (drastically) "reduced". (so it was higher than the resulting "reduced" GN)

But I submit I have not "repeatedly" mis-stated GN.

Because I was challenged over a minor error, (which I submit most people probably understood the total context anyway), I felt the need to more FULLY explain.

*********************

But I repeat that this is a "BEGINNERS" forum and I submit that 99% of "beginners" here are not even aware of leaf shutters and their advantages.

There is not a lot to explain. Using High Speed Sync. decreases the effective guide number of a flash as the shutter speed increases beyond the sync. range of the shutter, leaf or otherwise (and not all leaf shutters have super fast sync. speeds, some are only 1/500, not much different than the 1/320 sec on my E-p5).

BUT ... there were (1/500s sync-able) leaf shutters back when FP syncs were still limited to 1/30s & 1/60s. Note that we did not have FP 1/250s flash-sync until the mid-80's.

WORSE ... we have gone backwards and some newer FP flash-sync is only 1/180s, (the article used 1/200s in his examples).

So what? As long as the subject is still within the flash range according to GN=distance * aperture it doesn't matter.

But that is the point ... a GN-48 can drop to about "3" @ highest SS.

How much distance can you get @ GN-3 and (typical) f/2.8, (instead of him starting w/ GN-300 and f/1.4 in his article) ???

You appear to be purposely obfuscating things.

You are IGNORING the problematics of HSS.

You are also ignoring the other CREATIVE benefit allowed w/ higher native-sync SS, the ability to "Darken-Backgrounds".

You may dismiss it but I use it almost every day. I have gotten many compliments on my Bird-of-Paradise shot, (both publically and PRIVATELY).

Sure, Yeah ... it can somewhat be done with a black-felt background behind the subject. But that takes more time, and I don't always have a black-felt with me.

And indeed I took that also using the FA-LCD, (w/ camera at "knee" level), because I am now too old to, (easily/quickly), bend-over like I used to. AND, the FA-LCD would even allow total on the "ground - looking - UP" type of creative shooting positions virtually impossible w/ even "tilting" LCD's.

BTW: ...

Here is a quote from ANOTHER "ARTICLE" about HSS ...

FP/HSS Modes (also called High Speed/FP flash synch on Canon)

Now that you know that the FP shutter needs to get all the way open to let the instantaneous pop of an electronic flash expose all of the film or sensor, what if instead we made the flash stay on long enough to let the curtains of a focal plane (FP) shutter complete their travel from one side to the other? We could let the flash expose the film or CCD at any shutter setting during the time it takes the curtains to travel from one side to the other.

You can do that as a trick mode with many high-end flashes and cameras. It's called the FP/HSS mode.

There are many disadvantages, which is why I don't ever use these modes.

1.) FP/HSS mode often reverts to totally manual exposure calculation. If so, it's only useful for shooting things that stay at the same distance or you have to re-calculate for each exposure if different distances.

2.) The flash always pops at full power. Thus you have L-O-N-G recycle times, (which get subsequent longer w/ each exposure because you quickly deplete the battery w/ shorter battery life.) So no high-frame rates or intended long-usage of flash.

3.) Since only a fraction of the light at any time is exposing the film or CCD you lose a lot of light, again getting you back to the problems of limited flash range. The loss of light is directly reduced, (halved), with each subsequent=stop higher shutter speed you use, thus the flash guide number used in manual calculations in 1.) above changes with shutter speed! You lose most of the light at the faster speeds.

At least FP/HSS mode gives you the flexibility to use any shutter speed, but because you lose a lot of light you MUST then use larger apertures.

While this can be a handy feature in only very limited applications, there are so many limitations you see why I don't consider it anywhere as useful as a true higher "native" sync speed.

 

[briantii]

The OP has an A7. He / she won't be able to glue a leaf shutter on it instead. It's pointless what a leaf shutter can / cannot do. The OP just needs to know how to make their camera work correctly - talking about leaf shutters does nothing to support that cause.

 

[briantii]

All the OP needs to know is that it pulses and reduces the strength of the flash in exchange for being able to use flash with a higher shutter speed. They also should realize for the type of shooting they are doing (portraits) HSS is probably not needed / desired.

 

[PhotoTeach2]

The OP has an A7. He / she won't be able to glue a leaf shutter on it instead. It's pointless what a leaf shutter can / cannot do. The OP just needs to know how to make their camera work correctly - talking about leaf shutters does nothing to support that cause.

I fully realize this has nothing to do with the OP ...

But this is a "beginners" forum and OTHER "BEGINNERS" will READ it.

It is obvious that many/most do not (fully) understand HSS and it's inherent limitations from the (VERY MANY) responses here when I mention high-sync w/ leaf shutter and they reply that THEY CAN DO THE "SAME" THING w/ HSS. (in other words -- HSS is "equal" to native high SS-sync)

The posted article, (which I did not post), was misleading to the extent that he used a GN-300 and f/1.4 to do (only) 8' fill-flash, (when a leaf shutter can do it to 17+' w/ GN-48 & f/2.8).

I have already APOLOGIZED to the OP because it did NOT apply to him and it indeed may have appeared I was insulting his intelligence, (if he indeed did fully understand HSS and its inherent limitations).

 

[PhotoTeach2]

The quote below comes from this website https://digital-photography-school.com/portraits-using-flash-high-speed-sync/

A somewhat MISLEADING article link because he never mentions the GN "halves" with each subsequent SS increase above "native" flash-sync SS.

What do you mean by "misleading"? Its normal meaning is that it leads someone to believe something that's untrue, but there's nothing in the article to lead anyone to any conclusion about Guide Number (this is a beginners forum so just using initials without explanation isn't much use).

Misleading when he never "cautions" that HSS drastically reduces GN, (ok Guide Number), and that it required GN-300 @ f/1.4 to do his example images, (and only to a max distance of 8').

How many beginners have GN-300 and f/1.4 and the SKILL to properly use it when limited to 8' ???

Notice that the quote I sent indeed did say it was very problematic with very limited applications, (f/2.8 in sunlight @ only very short-range).

What is wrong with a "beginner" being told that a leaf-shutter will allow f/2.8 at MUCH longer range and also the ability to darken-backgrounds for CREATIVE effect ???

Notice his best images are VERY close, and one of his images with (2-stop robbing) soft-modifier shows almost no-flash effect at all. The only distance shot was under overcast so he could shoot @ 1/1000, (instead of 1/4000s).

The article is about a particular type of picture and the illustrations are that type of picture. Nothing misleading there.

It is when posted in the "beginners" forum when most "beginners" won't have the equipment or skill to duplicate.

The technique, of course, like every other technique is limited in its application. But including a list of every possible limitation is more likely to confuse than illuminate ...

So it is not confusing if they try, (but FAIL), to duplicate it w/ LESS than GN-300 or distance greater than 8' ???

I suggest the article was WORTHLESS to such a beginner.

I have found I can use the built-in (GN-48) strobe on FZ-1000 & 2000/2500 to a SUN-light effective range 15+'.

... for example, small-sensor cameras have limitations that include restricted ability to give shallow depth of field

Which can also sometimes, (and maybe MORE OFTEN), be an ADVANTAGE.

and restricted ability to capture low light;

Absolutely I will AGREE with that ... I can't think of any disadvantage to the low-light high-ISO ability of larger sensors.

but you fail to mention those. Either the article isn't misleading or your comment is even more misleading.

But you CAN have leaf-shutters with larger (MF) sensors.

AND ... Nikon could have done it with their former "electronic" shutters in their D70/D1x series of cameras. (they could also sync @ higher shutter-speeds same as leaf-shutters could)

It was absolutely one of the reasons many pro's liked Hasselblad's & RB/RZ's, (including me because I still have a complete RZ system).