Michel Lalonde
Member
Is there any advantage (inconvenient) in using sRGB vs Adobe RBG on a 10D ? I am using PS 7 that can process both.
Any sample photo ?
Thank you.
Any sample photo ?
Thank you.
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sRGB or Adobe RGB
- Thread starter Michel Lalonde
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Steven Noyes
Forum Pro
It all depends on your output device. If you are doing Canon InkJet/Web/Monitor type output, than sRGB will give you better colors. Personally, I edit in my monitor device color because that is all that I can see. I then convert to other profiles as needed.
Steven
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Michel Lalonde
Member
Thank you Steven, I'm new in SLR, so I will continue to use sRGB.
Steven Noyes
Forum Pro
Check your output device. Epson printers have a bit wider Gamut that might warrant Adobe RB. But remember, if you can't see them on your monitor, it makes it more difficult. Also, a wider Gamut can be nice if you are doing lots of editing (color/brightness) editing on the image.
But for starting out, sRGB will work well until you learn when you need more Gamut.
Steven
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New and Updated!!!
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But for starting out, sRGB will work well until you learn when you need more Gamut.
Steven
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New and Updated!!!
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jeanette...
Leading Member
sRGB is for web photos; Adobe RGB is for printed. If you're planning on printing your photos always use Adobe RGB. When saving photos to be used on a website use the sRGB profile.
jeanette...
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Jeanette Butler
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jeanette...
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'Communication is the cornerstone to understanding.'
Jeanette Butler
http://www.communityzero.com/pug
http://www.pbase.com/maxie6
Use Adobe RGB in your 10D. Adobe RGB is a larger color space than sRGB. If you plan on saving images for the web, then save them that way using adobe photoshop but if you capture them in sRGB first and then try to get them printed....well, that's like using a lower quality setting on that fabulous camera to take pictures....you can never get that detail back.
sRGB
-tim
Canon 1 0 D, 24-70mm/f2.8 L-Series, 75-300mm/f4-5.6 IS, 35mm f2, Canon 4 2 0EX Speedlight
Sony 7 1 7, Nikon 9 9 5 & Konica KD-4 0 0 Z
Accessories....tons of course
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp
sRGB
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-tim
Canon 1 0 D, 24-70mm/f2.8 L-Series, 75-300mm/f4-5.6 IS, 35mm f2, Canon 4 2 0EX Speedlight
Sony 7 1 7, Nikon 9 9 5 & Konica KD-4 0 0 Z
Accessories....tons of course
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp
Michael Rollins
Active member
Using the 10D, if my intention for all my images is to print, either professionally or with personal printer, then my camera's settings should be Adobe RGB. If, on the other hand, my intentions are to use most/all of my images on the web or view on the PC, then I should shoot in sRGB?
Is there REALLY that much difference? I may only print 10% of my images but would like to know that when I do print, they are the best quality possible.
Also, I don't have my camera with me at the moment. Is the defualt setting Adobe or sRGB? I can't remember.
Good Thread!!!
-Mike Rollins
Is there REALLY that much difference? I may only print 10% of my images but would like to know that when I do print, they are the best quality possible.
Also, I don't have my camera with me at the moment. Is the defualt setting Adobe or sRGB? I can't remember.
Good Thread!!!
-Mike Rollins
Steven Noyes
Forum Pro
Color Gamuts are an interesting thing and wider does not mean better. That is one of the myths. If that was true, everyone would use LAB but since that is not the case there must be trade offs. And that trade off is that Adobe RGB and sRGB represent the same number of unique colors. To get a wider Gamut then, the colors in Adobe RGB are wider spaced and more prone to posterization. Also, (in most cases) you can not view the extra colors that Adobe RGB buys you since they can not be displayed on the majority of monitors.
Some concepts to guide you.
1) Most monitors map closely to sRGB.
2) Each and every device has a unique color space.
3) The color space of a printer is dependent on ink, paper and device drivers.
4) Canon and HP try to design to the sRGB color space. Epson closer to the Adobe RGB color space.
5) You can only "see" the colors presented by your monitor.
6) For absolute best results, edit in the narrowest color space that you can to represent all of the colors in the image.
7) Wider gamuts are nice if you are going to be doing much manipulation to color and/or brightness.
Steven
---
New and Updated!!!
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/a_study_in_light
Some concepts to guide you.
1) Most monitors map closely to sRGB.
2) Each and every device has a unique color space.
3) The color space of a printer is dependent on ink, paper and device drivers.
4) Canon and HP try to design to the sRGB color space. Epson closer to the Adobe RGB color space.
5) You can only "see" the colors presented by your monitor.
6) For absolute best results, edit in the narrowest color space that you can to represent all of the colors in the image.
7) Wider gamuts are nice if you are going to be doing much manipulation to color and/or brightness.
Steven
--
---
New and Updated!!!
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/a_study_in_light
A
AndyJ101
Guest
The default is sRGB.
I think people are saying shoot in AdobeRGB and then process in AdobeRGB. Only down convert to sRGB when you save - do a save as, then you have both a printer-optimised and a web-optimised version. Obviously disk space is a factor, but I'm sure you can figure out a workflow for it. Note that they are also saying that unless your monitor can support AdobeRGB you may not notice problems until you print (assuming your printer can support it). Confused???
I think people are saying shoot in AdobeRGB and then process in AdobeRGB. Only down convert to sRGB when you save - do a save as, then you have both a printer-optimised and a web-optimised version. Obviously disk space is a factor, but I'm sure you can figure out a workflow for it. Note that they are also saying that unless your monitor can support AdobeRGB you may not notice problems until you print (assuming your printer can support it). Confused???
Michael Rollins
Active member
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-Michael Rollins
Joe Wilson
Senior Member
First of all, I agree that you need to know what your output device is going to be. If it is for presentation via the web, sRGB would be a good space to edit in.
However, the Canon S9000 gamut (for example) is much wider than sRGB. Here are the two profiles mapped out graphically.
So you can see, there is some advantages of editing in aRGB if your final output can support it.
However, if you are editing in your "monitor" space with the intent to print later on and your printer has a wider gamut than your monitor (which is most likely the case) then you will not get the optimal results.
Finally, learn to use soft proofing, it can help determine how your image will react to other spaces.
http://www.joesimages.com
However, the Canon S9000 gamut (for example) is much wider than sRGB. Here are the two profiles mapped out graphically.
So you can see, there is some advantages of editing in aRGB if your final output can support it.
However, if you are editing in your "monitor" space with the intent to print later on and your printer has a wider gamut than your monitor (which is most likely the case) then you will not get the optimal results.
Finally, learn to use soft proofing, it can help determine how your image will react to other spaces.
--
http://www.joesimages.com
Joe Wilson
Senior Member
Also, if you are shooting in RAW, it doesn't matter what space you select. RAW data is just that, RAW. Your conversion program will then be the mechanism to assign the space.
http://www.joesimages.com
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http://www.joesimages.com
yes, there's a big difference. in the end it boils down to that's the point of why the 10d has that feature. you're call really, but I wouldn't use sRGB or a lessor quality image period.
not sure if it's the default setting. easily changed though.
-tim
Canon 1 0 D, 24-70mm/f2.8 L-Series, 75-300mm/f4-5.6 IS, 35mm f2, Canon 4 2 0EX Speedlight
Sony 7 1 7, Nikon 9 9 5 & Konica KD-4 0 0 Z
Accessories....tons of course
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp
not sure if it's the default setting. easily changed though.
--
-tim
Canon 1 0 D, 24-70mm/f2.8 L-Series, 75-300mm/f4-5.6 IS, 35mm f2, Canon 4 2 0EX Speedlight
Sony 7 1 7, Nikon 9 9 5 & Konica KD-4 0 0 Z
Accessories....tons of course
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp
The reason I say RGB is that with any camera, the pictures will at some point probably be printed at the lab. Labs don't want sRGB they want Adobe RGB as their machines will take advantage of the wider range of colors and you will see a difference.
Editing is a big part of digital and that too benefits from a wider color space.
Lastly, if you're going to display things on the web, you can always go to sRGB but you can't go back the other way if the data wasn't there to begin with.
One can edit in whatever colorspace they want, but for me, I would recommend you do some test prints, then adjust your monitor. Usually it's the brightness that's going to very between what the lab you use to print your images at and your home monitor that will be off.
From there, you can use a program like Qimage to print. This way your images will be consistant and the printer is what changes the output, where the image stays intact.
I do this and am 100% assured that my screen matches the lab and if I go to print at home, Qimage settings then match the lab prints too.
-tim
Canon 1 0 D, 24-70mm/f2.8 L-Series, 75-300mm/f4-5.6 IS, 35mm f2, Canon 4 2 0EX Speedlight
Sony 7 1 7, Nikon 9 9 5 & Konica KD-4 0 0 Z
Accessories....tons of course
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp
Editing is a big part of digital and that too benefits from a wider color space.
Lastly, if you're going to display things on the web, you can always go to sRGB but you can't go back the other way if the data wasn't there to begin with.
One can edit in whatever colorspace they want, but for me, I would recommend you do some test prints, then adjust your monitor. Usually it's the brightness that's going to very between what the lab you use to print your images at and your home monitor that will be off.
From there, you can use a program like Qimage to print. This way your images will be consistant and the printer is what changes the output, where the image stays intact.
I do this and am 100% assured that my screen matches the lab and if I go to print at home, Qimage settings then match the lab prints too.
--
-tim
Canon 1 0 D, 24-70mm/f2.8 L-Series, 75-300mm/f4-5.6 IS, 35mm f2, Canon 4 2 0EX Speedlight
Sony 7 1 7, Nikon 9 9 5 & Konica KD-4 0 0 Z
Accessories....tons of course
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp
Doug Walker
Senior Member
I use Adobe RGB in my 10D. However, if you're going to display images on the web or make prints you'll want to convert to sRGB before saving. If you try to display an image on the web or print without first converting to sRGB, your images will appear undersaturated and lifeless.
Doug Walker
Check my profile for equipment list.
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Doug Walker
Check my profile for equipment list.
Joe Poggi
Well-known member
Doug, I'm slightly confused. You said: "display on web or make prints." Is adobe rgb better for printing in a lab or kiosk as opposed to a home based inkjet?
Joe Poggi
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Joe Poggi
Steven Noyes
Forum Pro
Only if you are not working with a calibrated color flow OR you have gamut warning swhen converting from Adobe RGB to your monitors color profile (This has to happen EVERY TIME you go to the display. You can edit in Color space A but it will always be converted to your monitor color space one the sreen)
I think I said that. But you also benefit by staying in the smallest color space that fits you image. If you go wider, you will posterize faster and loose color precision.
Just like you can always convert to the labs color printer color space. In my case I NEVER see AdobeRGB. I convert directly to the labs device color profile from my screen profile. This gives me the greatest amount of visual feedback if I am getting my color right.
I have never seen any significant difference between my monitor and my prints.
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New and Updated!!!
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/a_study_in_light
Peter Phan
Senior Member
I do most of my high-volume printing at Sam's Club, where it has to be sRGB. So I've streamlined my workflow by working only in sRGB. I tried shooting in RGB, then converting to sRGB before printing, but I find it really an unnecessary issue to have to deal with. And there've been times when I've forgotten to convert to sRGB before sending it in. What a hassle. If it's going to print as sRGB, why not shoot it and work with it in sRGB? If it's going to display on the web as sRGB, why not shoot it and work with it in sRGB? For me, its sRGB.
About the only time I shoot in RGB is when I'm shooting landscapes where the extra color gamut might come in handy.
About the only time I shoot in RGB is when I'm shooting landscapes where the extra color gamut might come in handy.
Joe Wilson
Senior Member
Katie Piecrust
Forum Enthusiast
Check out this link:
http://digitalmastery.com/color/
http://digitalmastery.com/color/
First of all, I agree that you need to know what your output device
is going to be. If it is for presentation via the web, sRGB would
be a good space to edit in.
However, the Canon S9000 gamut (for example) is much wider than
sRGB. Here are the two profiles mapped out graphically.
So you can see, there is some advantages of editing in aRGB if your
final output can support it.
However, if you are editing in your "monitor" space with the intent
to print later on and your printer has a wider gamut than your
monitor (which is most likely the case) then you will not get the
optimal results.
Finally, learn to use soft proofing, it can help determine how your
image will react to other spaces.
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