Focus problems with new high end compact Canon G1x mark2

Gaura

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I finally decided on a Canon powershot G1x mark2 to replace my well loved powershot A630. (I had my old A630 for 8 years and loved it because I could point and shoot anything in "auto mode" and it would rarely give me a blurry shot)....but finally the flash is having problems charging, so I started shopping for a new camera. I got G1x mark2 because it looked like it might be a good replacement for my A630 BUT.....

I am completely frustrated and confused with the G1x mark2. It takes beautiful pictures much nicer than the A630 when it focuses correctly but I cannot just point and shoot like I could with the A630.

Maybe somebody could explain why this is to me. The G1x mark2 seems to have a much more precise focusing system so some things in a scene are very in focus with the rest of the scene blurred. (I think I read that this may be due to this camera's ability to do Depth of Field?) ...a good thing but maybe bad in my case? (This is using the G1x auto mode which uses face aiaf by default). If I try to take a picture of one person, it does fine but if I try to take a foto with my 3 children, inevitably one or two of them will be in focus and the other not. With face aiaf, it will try to detect faces, but lots of time this fails and it only is able to focus on one face which makes the other faces come out blurry. (this is even when the flash is on).

In this kind of scenario, I just want everything to be in focus, but the G1x mark2 auto mode tries to focus the subject and blur everything else and if it doesn't choose the subjects you want then the photo is ruined. G1x mark2 does have 1 point touch screen AF, but as far as I can see you can't select more than one frame for multiple subjects or enlarge the frame to encompass multiple people.

So what do I do? I'm not sure what it is about the old A630 uses that allows it to be so much more simple and foolproof. Is the G1x mark2 just the wrong camera for an "auto mode" shooter like me? It does give some spectacular results especially in portrait mode but it just frustrates me when trying to take shots with more than one person in the scene.

Is there a way I can make this camera work for me or should I return it and get something that works more for point and shoot? (I don't want to have to learn complicated photography stuff like adjusting aperture etc since I have 3 kids and one is a baby. No time! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
G1X has larger sensor and the lens has relatively large aperture. This is good, because the sensor gets more light, and there will be less noise. However, when the aperture of the lens is fully open, only small part of the image will be in focus. So, try Av-mode and increase the F-number a bit. Now less light will go to sensor and more things will be in focus (but image may be noisier or blurred because of camera shake).

Shooting in other modes than Auto is not very difficult. When you find good settings, you don't need to worry about them. In Av-mode, you just worry about the F-number. However, it helps a lot if you understand what shutter speed, aperture (f-number) and sensitivity (ISO) are and how they are related.
 
Hi.
As pannumon stated, you have large sensor large aperture lens - camera now. With this great power able to give you less noise, more sharpness and choice of depth of field comes some responsibility and need for decision of the photographer. Now you have things to decide you didn't have previously with your A camera, otherwise the camera will decide these for you, and it will not be always as you want. As it's been suggested, for better control of sharpness across the depth of the image, use Av mode, and set your F number higher. Something like f/8 or even more....
 
I am completely frustrated and confused with the G1x mark2. It takes beautiful pictures much nicer than the A630 when it focuses correctly but I cannot just point and shoot like I could with the A630.

Maybe somebody could explain why this is to me. The G1x mark2 seems to have a much more precise focusing system so some things in a scene are very in focus with the rest of the scene blurred. (I think I read that this may be due to this camera's ability to do Depth of Field?)
Correct. Specifically, shallow depth of field.

On any camera, the sharpest focus is always on a plane (of zero depth). It is called "focal plane". Both in front and behind it sharpness subsides (in front about twice as fast as behind). The boundaries of the zone where sharpness did not subside beyond whatever one considers acceptable, or distance between such boundaries (front and rear) are called depth of field. Again, on any camera, on your old camera too.

But there are differences between cameras:

1) if the same scene shot from the same distance with a lens with the same f-number, the camera with smaller sensor will have larger depth of field (blurring away from focus plane slower) - this is one effect which you experience, the sensor in your new G1X II is about 8-10 times bigger compared to your old camera, which for most applications is a good thing.

2) if the same scene shot from the same distance with the same sensor with a lens with smaller f-number (but it is called "larger aperture"), the depth of field will be smaller (blurring away from focal plane faster) - this is another effect you are experiencing, as lowest f-numbers on your old camera were 40-60% higher than on your new one.

Both larger sensor and lower f-numbers are good for low light performance. You are probably experience this problem not in the sun, right? Probably indoors? So your new camera in Auto mode tries to give you the best noise performance it can by choosing the lowest f-number it has, leading to the low depth of field.

Fortunately, on advanced cameras like G1X II apertures are not fixed and can be closed to a degree (f-numbers increased). To simulate the depth of field of your old camera, you will have to set f-number to about f/5.6 on the wide end of the zoom and f/10 on the tele end (you can do it by switching to Av mode and turning some dial). But then the noise performance is not going to be any better either. Probably setting it to something like f/4 when your kids are not ideally lined up but the distance from them to the camera differs within a couple feet would be a better compromise.

There is also

3) if you want deeper Depth of Field with the same (more or less) scene, sensor and f-number, you can get closer and use wider setting of your zoom. But perspective will change of course, closer kids will look bigger etc.
 
DOF (Depth of field). Larger sensor cameras have a shallower DOF. This helps to isolate your subjects and make them more interesting, which is why most portraits are taken with large sensor cameras. Your old camera had a very small sensor, so a wider DOF where basically everything around your subject was in focus.

You can widen your DOF by turning up your aperture. I don't know about the G1x but on my 6D there is a setting with the portrait of a lady for turning up or down the background blurr. This setting essentially prioritizes a higher aperture number. A higher aperture number will widen your DOF and get all your kids in focus.
 
While I would agree with the previous responses, that it would be beneficial to take more control of the camera, of you really want to stay in the automatic modes just stick it on Landscape mode whenever you definitely want everything in focus.

Bear in mind though that this may not give the greatest results indoors with low light.
 
While I would agree with the previous responses, that it would be beneficial to take more control of the camera, of you really want to stay in the automatic modes just stick it on Landscape mode whenever you definitely want everything in focus.

Bear in mind though that this may not give the greatest results indoors with low light.
If you want to get everybody in focus in low light you will need to use flash.
 
Thanks for the great explanation. That helps a lot!

Now I understand what I need to do to make this camera work for me. Canon's smart auto mode tends to try to keep the aperature low and not use the flash in auto mode which makes some beautiful images.

The problem for me is that it produces too many pictures which one or more of the people in the picture are out of focus. I have tried your suggestions and it does work.

However, when you are trying to quickly catch a photographic moment with your baby, it does no good to try auto mode and then if that didn't work switch to AV mode and adjust the aperature several times before you find something that works. This camera's AV mode also does not have "auto flash" so you can only choose force flash or no flash. Too many things too evaluate and manipulate. By that time the moment is gone, at least for me, a novice in photography. I guess the decisions that this camera makes in auto mode just doesn't work for me and my situation (mostly photos of my kids)

I was really happy with the "auto mode" on my old A630. I think it would tend to rely on the flash more and not leave the aperature so wide, but at least pictures were rarely out of focus. Then if I wanted to turn off the flash and play with iso I could but at least I had a picture and the moment wasn't lost.

I wonder if anyone has a suggestion of a camera that will produce really nice images but that has a really good auto mode. Would an entry level DLSR like SL1 or EOS M do a better job for what I am looking for? I like Canon but I am so frustrated with the "smart auto" at this point I would be willing to try another brand. I want something that will make good decisions for me in auto mode. I would like to have the option of learning how to manipulate controls as I have time but not be forced to do it because auto mode leaves me with so many out of focus pictures.
 
Thanks for the great explanations. That clarifies things a lot, especially about the comparison and difference between my old A630 and the G1x mark2. Since I would prefer to rely on "auto mode" at this point in my life (having little time to learn photography and needing to capture photographic moments quick without manipulating controls) I wonder if I should consider returning the G1x mark2 and getting something with a smaller sensor? Would this solve my problem? or does it have to do with Canon's new smart auto mode that I think they've applied to all their powershot models. I read somewhere that the new smart auto gives priority to keeping aperatures low and not using flash which is good but bad for me in alot of my shooting situations. (I tried an S120 and was frustrated with the auto mode on it also because it would give me alot of motion blur shots in smart auto mode because the decisions it makes about trying not to use the flash.
 
Thanks for the great explanations. That clarifies things a lot, especially about the comparison and difference between my old A630 and the G1x mark2. Since I would prefer to rely on "auto mode" at this point in my life (having little time to learn photography and needing to capture photographic moments quick without manipulating controls) I wonder if I should consider returning the G1x mark2 and getting something with a smaller sensor? Would this solve my problem? or does it have to do with Canon's new smart auto mode that I think they've applied to all their powershot models. I read somewhere that the new smart auto gives priority to keeping aperatures low and not using flash which is good but bad for me in alot of my shooting situations. (I tried an S120 and was frustrated with the auto mode on it also because it would give me alot of motion blur shots in smart auto mode because the decisions it makes about trying not to use the flash.
Having somewhat smaller sensor and somewhat darker aperture (higher f-numbers, especially zoomed in) would alleviate your problem somewhat . Sony RX100 II (not III) should be sufficient for your needs - it has 2 times smaller sensor than G1X Mark II, but more efficient so you don't lose much low light ability while getting deeper DoF at wide end of the zoom. Plus as you zoom in, its aperture closes very quickly - you do lose low light ability, but keep DoF deep.

Although first I would try at least open flash manually on G1X II (there is the little switch on the left side when in shooting position) and see what auto mode does indoors.

And learning basics of photography, especially semi-auto modes like Aperture Priority (Av on Canon, A on most cameras) and Shutter Priority (Tv on Canon, S on most cameras) is really not a rocket science. :-) Just play 5 minutes with different apertures and shutter speeds while photographing your kids, and you will be laughing later at your reluctance to learn.
 
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Thanks for the great explanations. That clarifies things a lot, especially about the comparison and difference between my old A630 and the G1x mark2. Since I would prefer to rely on "auto mode" at this point in my life (having little time to learn photography and needing to capture photographic moments quick without manipulating controls) I wonder if I should consider returning the G1x mark2 and getting something with a smaller sensor? Would this solve my problem? or does it have to do with Canon's new smart auto mode that I think they've applied to all their powershot models. I read somewhere that the new smart auto gives priority to keeping aperatures low and not using flash which is good but bad for me in alot of my shooting situations. (I tried an S120 and was frustrated with the auto mode on it also because it would give me alot of motion blur shots in smart auto mode because the decisions it makes about trying not to use the flash.
You might also explore what settings your camera has in its auto mode, especially how the ISO is limited. Many cameras have a setting that is the highest ISO setting the auto mode will use. These often apply to aperture and shutter priority modes, too. You may find that the highest ISO allowed is fairly low. That forces the camera to use large as aperture settings or longer exposures to get the exposure right. Letting the cameral raise the Iso more can give some loss of image quality on some images, but a slightly noisy shot is better than an out of focus one.

With a bit of practice aperture priority mode can be very fast as there is very little fiddling around needed. Most of the other settings get set once and rarely changed.
 
You might also explore what settings your camera has in its auto mode, especially how the ISO is limited. Many cameras have a setting that is the highest ISO setting the auto mode will use. These often apply to aperture and shutter priority modes, too. You may find that the highest ISO allowed is fairly low. That forces the camera to use large as aperture settings or longer exposures to get the exposure right. Letting the cameral raise the Iso more can give some loss of image quality on some images, but a slightly noisy shot is better than an out of focus one.
In other words, you can force the camera to act like a camera with smaller sensor.
 
Yes, the G1X II has an issue where it uses too large an aperture most of the time in auto mode. This likely is a carry over from when the sensor was smaller. I use f/5.6 most of the time in AV mode and it handles most of my shooting. Learning how to use the f number, shutter speed, ISO, etc. will allow you to shoot in a wider variety of circumstances.

--
Leon
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35081279/leons_pics/landscapes.htm
 
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Your camera falls into the "enthusiast" category, which essentially means it is geared to the more advanced user. While that doesn't and shouldn't mean you cannot use the camera in full auto mode, most owners will likely learn how to control the camera rather than allowing the camera to control them.

First, have you sat down with the camera and the owner's manual? Most issues related to focus will be covered in the manual.

Second, where did you purchase the camera? A good dealer will offer some after the sale service and advice which could lead to an easy fix for a slightly more complicated problem.

The issue you seem to be having is allowing the camera to set the focus on one point in the framing of the image. And, looking through the owner's manual, that does appear to be the default setting for full Auto mode. IF you are looking for a purely point and shoot camera which controls all functions, the G1X mkII is probably not your best choice as it does require some input from the user to achieve best results. Resizing the AF frame appears to be available in "P" mode. (It is also available in the "creative" modes of Av, Tv and M plus the two Custom modes.) "P" is a slightly more sophisticated version of Auto and would be worth investigating IMO. You do have a camera which can be made to work for you and not against you. You must though first understand the operation of the camera which means sitting down with the camera and the manual and trying a few settings to determine what you need of the camera. And, of course, if you get completely bumfoozled by the manual, contact Canon tech support with your camera in hand.

Using the face detection feature, you should be able to input the names of your family members into the detection system. Using that information along with a previous shot of each person, the camera will detect each face and get each in focus in a group shot.

There doesn't appear to be a "landscape" mode in the camera's menu or functions. "Landscape" would provide an expanded depth of field at the expense of the amount of light entering the lens. This would make shooting indoors a more difficult operation so probably best not to fret this omission.

You can also set the camera to expand the AF frame size. My guess would be you have the menu set to single point AF frame and a small frame size. Expand the frame to include the size of your group and the camera should take a good shot with all in focus. Check the menu for how to set AF frame (found on pg 91 of the manual) for an explanation of how to re-size the frame. (Do remember, an enlarged focus point will probably lead to a higher f-stop value. A higher f-stop value represents a smaller aperture opening which will lead to less light entering the lens. Less light can mean a need for flash assist. The good news here is your present camera is much more light sensitive and should depend less on the flash for a proper exposure. That is a benefit of a larger sensor camera.)

You can build a preset with your desired functions into one of the custom shooting mode selections. Once you've done this, forget about full Auto operation and use the C1 or C2 setting as your default. You desired operation for family portraits should be placed into the memory of the custom mode in the menu system and the camera will return to those settings every time you select that mode. You can, if you prefer, build one setting for bright daylight and one for shooting with a flash. This is all explained in your manual. You should find the guides on about pg 109. If you are having difficulties in setting these functions, give Canon a call and talk to their live support techs.

Finally, try entering "Canon G1X mkII tips and tutorials" into a search engine. Now you should have a series of instructional articles and videos from which you can select only issues concerning focus or more complex items such as the custom shooting modes.

The GX1X mkII isn't a simple point and shoot, unfortunately for you. Your problem does related to how the camera has been instructed by you (in the menus and functions) to focus and, when a simple, small single point focus is set, the camera will default to a larger aperture setting which allows the most light to the sensor for best exposure values. Larger apertures (which come with smaller f-stop numbers) are therefore the default setting in full Auto mode.

If you look at the shooting information provided by the camera
(pg 107 & 214) for your in focus and out of focus shots, you'll likely see the difference in the f-stop value. Smaller f-stop values will give deeper in focus images but will allow less light into the lens by closing down the aperture. In other words, f-stop values control aperture which in turn determines depth of field. If you are shooting indoors, this might occasionally lead to needing the flash for additional lighting. Is that something you want? You must manually raise the built in flash with this camera. If you ignore the warning given by the camera to do so, you will lose your shot.

Look at your in focus shots and determine the "best" f-stop value for in focus images. (Probably somewhere around f 5.6 to f 8 or so.) Switch the camera to "Av" mode and try a few shots with the camera set to a similar f-stop value. The camera will automatically determine the correct settings for shutter speed and ISO values to retain the best exposure values. Now you will be in control of the camera. From there it is a fairly simple path to becoming a bit more adventurous with your "enthusiast" camera to achieve even more dramatic effects. You can continue on in Av mode or build the settings into one of the Custom settings.

Should you return the camera for a more fully automatic model? That's up to you since the G1X mk II is capable of quite good images. It simply demands more from its owner as you begin to control the camera by understanding the owner's manual. If you feel the camera is too advanced for your needs, you can certainly buy several options which will do as your old camera did. You will though be giving up the higher image quality and light sensitivity of the more advanced camera. Read the manual with your camera in hand and decide just how much control and how much image quality you prefer.
 
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Hi, thanks for your very informative advice and explanations. That helps me alot. So there are a lot of things I do like about this camera so I am inclined to try to learn how to use it and make it work for me. I've been going over the manual and searching the net but there are still some things I can't figure out. Also called Cannon support and they weren't able to give me a satisfactory answer.
Specifically When in AIAF Face Detect mode, I want the camera to focus on multiple faces. When I try aiming the camera at my kids, it will choose one of them with a white frame (camera thinks this is the main subject) and then it will put grey frames around the other kids(the camera thinks they are the secondary subjects). When you half press the shutter button, all the frames both white and grey should change to green to show that they are in focus. However ,when I half press the shutter button, the grey frames disappear and only the white frame changes to green, leaving only one of my kids in focus.

This is not what is supposed to happen according to Canon support http://support-ph.canon-asia.com/contents/PH/EN/8200622100.html

I think according this article, the camera in face detect AIAF is supposed to focus on all the subjects both white and grey frames and they should all turn to green with half press of the shutter unless you use the face select to select only one subject to focus on. I've tried this in all kinds of lighting and I've only once or twice gotten the camera to focus on two people at a time. 95 percent of the time it will just focus on the main subject and it will drop the secondary subjects with half press of shutter button.

I called canon support and the rep just told me that my camera is probably defective and to send it back, but I am want to make sure this is really the case before I go to all the trouble of sending it back and getting a new one.

I've also investigated in the manual about how to use the 1 point flexizone AF to get all my kids in focus and have found that you can change the size of the AF frame only to SMALLER and not to larger than the standard. The standard size is already quite small and won't encompass all of my kids. If anyone has found how to work around this or get Face AIAF to focus on multiple faces, please share!
 
You might also explore what settings your camera has in its auto mode, especially how the ISO is limited. Many cameras have a setting that is the highest ISO setting the auto mode will use. These often apply to aperture and shutter priority modes, too. You may find that the highest ISO allowed is fairly low. That forces the camera to use large as aperture settings or longer exposures to get the exposure right. Letting the cameral raise the Iso more can give some loss of image quality on some images, but a slightly noisy shot is better than an out of focus one.
I tried changing the ISO setting but it didn't affect the aperture that the camera chooses. It continued to choose the same low aperatures as it did before the ISO setting change. Any other ideas to force the camera to bump up the aperatures a bit in the auto modes? (I like auto mode because I really like what it does to the skin tones on the faces, detecting backlighting, shadow, and adjusting for all of this .... I don't think I could duplicate this on my own choosing my own settings if I used AV mode achieve the higher aperatures.
 
Hi, thanks for your very informative advice and explanations. That helps me alot. So there are a lot of things I do like about this camera so I am inclined to try to learn how to use it and make it work for me. I've been going over the manual and searching the net but there are still some things I can't figure out. Also called Cannon support and they weren't able to give me a satisfactory answer.
Specifically When in AIAF Face Detect mode, I want the camera to focus on multiple faces. When I try aiming the camera at my kids, it will choose one of them with a white frame (camera thinks this is the main subject) and then it will put grey frames around the other kids(the camera thinks they are the secondary subjects). When you half press the shutter button, all the frames both white and grey should change to green to show that they are in focus. However ,when I half press the shutter button, the grey frames disappear and only the white frame changes to green, leaving only one of my kids in focus.

This is not what is supposed to happen according to Canon support http://support-ph.canon-asia.com/contents/PH/EN/8200622100.html

I think according this article, the camera in face detect AIAF is supposed to focus on all the subjects both white and grey frames and they should all turn to green with half press of the shutter unless you use the face select to select only one subject to focus on. I've tried this in all kinds of lighting and I've only once or twice gotten the camera to focus on two people at a time. 95 percent of the time it will just focus on the main subject and it will drop the secondary subjects with half press of shutter button.

I called canon support and the rep just told me that my camera is probably defective and to send it back, but I am want to make sure this is really the case before I go to all the trouble of sending it back and getting a new one.

I've also investigated in the manual about how to use the 1 point flexizone AF to get all my kids in focus and have found that you can change the size of the AF frame only to SMALLER and not to larger than the standard. The standard size is already quite small and won't encompass all of my kids. If anyone has found how to work around this or get Face AIAF to focus on multiple faces, please share!
OK

Face detection operates by identifying faces which have been associated with names and prior photos of the person. Have you put names together with faces in the camera's menu? If not, then the camera doesn't recognize the other faces. The camera must also be set to the face ID "on" position in its main menu. When the camera recognizes known faces, the names of those people will be displayed on the LCD screen. Is this what's happening with your present setting? If not, probably you haven't instructed the camera to ID some people or the instructions you provided have not been properly registered in the camera's menu. So, first check your menu for face ID names and photos.

I don't own your camera so I can't give detailed instructions. However, Canon's specs for your camera indicate it has a total of 31 focus points which can be selected. Therefore, even if the single point focus is only a small and smaller frame, there should be other focus options.

Now, this basically means your camera does not operate as did your old camera. You are going to have to learn how to control your camera, it won't do what your old camera did automatically. Are you interested in learning how to control your camera? If not, maybe this isn't the right camera for you.

Instructions for focusing your camera exist on pages 88 through 95 of the manual.

Are you trying to use the camera in the "A" mode? If so, you need to switch to "P" mode. Basically, "P" is still an automatic shooting mode but the camera is now giving you more control over how the camera will operate. In fully automatic the camera simply will not do certain functions. Place the shooting mode selector switch on "P" and try again.

(I feel you are too hesitant to move away from a fully automatic camera. You are, therefore, insisting the new camera operate just as the old camera did. It won't. This is a much more sophisticated camera and it has been designed to take commands from the user. I won't say your camera is defective but I believe you simply have not found the combination of controls which are appropriate for your needs.)

Begin in "P" mode and work your way through the focus options given in the owner's manual. Once you switch to "P" mode, there will be several more options (in both the menu and the functions settings) available which were previously blacked out when the camera is in "A" mode. These new features are what you are looking for to give you control over your camera. I'm going to ask just to be certain, you do understand the four way function switch on the back of the camera, right? If so, ...

In "P" mode you should now see the other focus point settings become available in the menu. (There will actually be several new features to work in the menus and functions settings, all aimed at giving you more control over your photos.) You will set the number of focus points to a comfortable number (other than single point) and instruct the camera to use all of those points - usually between five and nine - to ensure proper focus. (Remember though, if you are using multiple focus points and shooting an image of only one person, other items in your LCD frame will also be in focus. This is very much how your old camera would focus.) If you cannot locate in the menu the right position for a switch to multiple focus points, try calling Canon again and asking specifically for assistance with that issue. If at that point the camera will not move away from a single point of focus, I would begin to assume the camera is defective. More knowledgeable hands though may still prove you just haven't found the right setting. This is where your local dealer can offer assistance.

Of course, you could always use the instructions I provided in my earlier post. Look at the shooting information for your in focus shots. That should provide you a f-stop value you can assign to the camera in "Av" mode. Let's say the majority of your in focus shots were taken with an f-stop value of f 4 to f 5.6. That value will establish a midrange depth of field from your camera at virtually any camera to subject distance and any zoom range on your lens. Set the camera to "Av" mode and turn the control dial to reach a setting between f 4 and f 5.6. Before you shoot, make certain the camera has retained that f-stop setting. If you are in "Av" mode and the camera has somehow not retained that f 4 to f 5.6 value (usually because someone has become flustered and moved some controls without realizing what they are changing), reset the camera and take your shot. Focus on any person in the group shot and the camera should automatically provide sufficient depth of field to have everyone in focus.

Once again, this is not a fully automatic camera and there are other adjustments which can - and likely should - be made when shooting in "Av" mode. The exposure compensation adjustment is there to give you control over how bright or dark the image will be. This camera has several incoming light metering modes which you control. Page 79 of the manual explains the metering system, its options and how to control them. You can, if you prefer, simply set metering to "Evaluative" (that would be similar to what your old camera used) and go with that. The point being, if you want the camera to be more than just a point and shoot, then you will need to learn just how the camera operates and how you can control how it operates. If you want a camera that requires no input from the user other than pointing the lens at a subject, this isn't the camera you want.

The basic rules of photography are rather simple and can be learned by anyone. Shooting in either "P" or "Av" mode still leaves most of the automatic operations of the camera to be made by the camera. You must first though set the controls to instruct the camera that "this" is how you want it to do its operations. Anyone on this forum will encourage you to make the best use of the higher quality camera you now own. You can be more creative and you can, once you have the camera under your control, have loads more enjoyment out of your camera than just pointing a lens in a certain direction. Your images will simply look better and be more valuable as years go by when you use a camera with your input providing creative control. Therefore, I would encourage you to stick with the Canon G1x m2 until you have its basic functions down.

Where did you buy the camera? A short trip to the retailer on a slow afternoon should provide you with some hands on instructions. Not always, but it should. Big box stores have people in their camera departments who don't now their gear. Not their fault, the big box stores don't train their employees very well. They will know Canon if they shoot with a Canon. But, if they use a Nikon or a Sony, they probably won't understand Canon's menus. Watching them fumble through the menu will be even more frustrating for you. If you made the purchase through a big box, make sure someone who understands Canon is there when you come in for assistance.

Most independent camera shops have several people on hand to give some after the sale service and you should be fine walking into any local dealer and asking for assistance. And, while you possibly didn't buy from them, most local shops are going to give some guidance just because they want you to enjoy your camera. So explore your options and try to get your camera under your own control. It's a fairly complicated piece of equipment and it requires some understanding by its user. Once you have the camera set where you want it to work, both write down the settings in the menu and functions systems and assign them to a Custom shooting mode. Then use that mode rather than "P" or "Av" and the camera will respond to those commands.

I would say though, this is the time for you to decide just how much you like this camera. If you truly enjoy it, learn to use to to your advantage. If you feel you will never be in command of the camera, then maybe you should just return it for a less capable camera that requires less input from the user. This is, after all, an "enthusiast's" camera and the user needs to be enthusiastic about the camera. If you cannot control the camera, eventually it will be put in a drawer and sit. Think of all the great photos you will miss if that happens.
 
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Hi, thanks for your very informative advice and explanations. That helps me alot. So there are a lot of things I do like about this camera so I am inclined to try to learn how to use it and make it work for me. I've been going over the manual and searching the net but there are still some things I can't figure out. Also called Cannon support and they weren't able to give me a satisfactory answer.
Specifically When in AIAF Face Detect mode, I want the camera to focus on multiple faces. When I try aiming the camera at my kids, it will choose one of them with a white frame (camera thinks this is the main subject) and then it will put grey frames around the other kids(the camera thinks they are the secondary subjects). When you half press the shutter button, all the frames both white and grey should change to green to show that they are in focus. However ,when I half press the shutter button, the grey frames disappear and only the white frame changes to green, leaving only one of my kids in focus.

This is not what is supposed to happen according to Canon support http://support-ph.canon-asia.com/contents/PH/EN/8200622100.html

I think according this article, the camera in face detect AIAF is supposed to focus on all the subjects
Again, it is physically impossible unless all the faces are in the same plane. Plane is a surface, of ZERO depth. As you go away from that surface, both away from the camera and towards the camera, everything starts to blur, and the farther away you go, blurrier it becomes. The blurring is faster towards the camera than away from it.

For example, no camera can focus on subjects both 10 and 13 feet from it at the same time.

A skilled photographer would choose a point 11 feet from the camera to focus on, and set aperture so both subjects would be reasonably sharp (although not as sharp as any subjects at 11 feet).

A less skilled photographer would just focus on the closest subject (10 feet in my example) and close aperture even more so the subject at 13 feet would not be too bad - of course at the price of increasing noise and/or motion blur.

If your subjects are stationary (and generally your camera is on a tripod), it is also possible to use focus bracketing and merge pictures in some software. But it requires much more work.
 
DPReview found this problem when they tested the camera:
"Program line's tendency to use wide apertures can lead to unintentional background blur"

The problem's there, it affects you, and Canon's response is to put their head in the sand. They could obviously correct this with a firmware upgrade, but they probably won't.

For the kind of photography you are doing -- your reasonable expectations simply cannot be met with this camera. I own only Canon, and a lot of it, but you shouldn't victimize yourself or your photos to this flaw. You can call them again and refer them to the DPReview test... the problem is real. But I doubt that Canon will be responsive enough to fix it, even if you tell them that you are returning the camera and buying Sony because of the problem.

But if you keep this camera, you won't be happy with it. I'm not saying it's a bad camera, but for what you do -- which is probably the most common thing -- this camera does not work, period.
 

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