ZR 800. 3 wall photos. .

[rube39]

. . .don't know if they are 'art,' but the ZR800 still did pretty good. GRIN. Any faults are mine, not the cameras.















--
Rube

 

[Cyril Catt]

A lovely set, Rube. Certainly shows what the ZR800 can do.

 

[JABB66]

Hi Rube

Great shots, I like specially the two lasts. About the first one, I would like to see the original full colour, if still exists. And I honestly think you aren't far from the truth when you call it art (at least the 2 last ones ;-)).

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Lisetta1]

Hi Rube,

Very nice set. I especially like #2-- and, yes, that one in particular looks like "art" to me! Nice work,

Lisetta

 

[rube39]

A lovely set, Rube. Certainly shows what the ZR800 can do.

Thank you Cyril. I had the ZR out because there have been a lot of birds on the river. . no birds that day but the camera was fine for a walk around as well.

 

[rube39]

Hi Rube

Great shots, I like specially the two lasts. About the first one, I would like to see the original full colour, if still exists. And I honestly think you aren't far from the truth when you call it art (at least the 2 last ones ;-)).

Thanks for sharing.

--
José Antonio

Thank you sir. I wasn't sure about the 1st one either, but I included it because the banners give a certain Japaneseness to the shot.

Here it is in color (which I don't think helps it much):







--
Rube

 

[rube39]

Hi Rube,

Very nice set. I especially like #2-- and, yes, that one in particular looks like "art" to me! Nice work,

Lisetta

Thank you. I guess I got lucky on that one, was just passing by and figured 'why not?'

 

[JABB66]

Hi Rube

Great shots, I like specially the two lasts. About the first one, I would like to see the original full colour, if still exists. And I honestly think you aren't far from the truth when you call it art (at least the 2 last ones ;-)).

Thanks for sharing.

--
José Antonio

Thank you sir. I wasn't sure about the 1st one either, but I included it because the banners give a certain Japaneseness to the shot.

Here it is in color (which I don't think helps it much):



--
Rube

Hi Rube

Maybe not much, but it helps something in my opinion, and any help is always welcome ;-) , thanks for posting it.

On the other hand, the banners should be white and not blue, right? Have you tried some time the in-camera white balance correction? Select the image in Play mode and from menu select "white balance", here select "Shadow" and in the preview screen you should see that the blue tint is gone (Shadow is the best option to correct excessive blue). Press "ok" and then a corrected copy will be created after some second (Copy again the original - very important, must be the unchanged original file- again to the camera card if you already deleted it from the card). In the occasions when the WB is really messed up, this is much faster and gives much better results than doing it in Post Process.

--
José Antonio

 

[rube39]

Hi Rube

Great shots, I like specially the two lasts. About the first one, I would like to see the original full colour, if still exists. And I honestly think you aren't far from the truth when you call it art (at least the 2 last ones ;-)).

Thanks for sharing.

--
José Antonio

Thank you sir. I wasn't sure about the 1st one either, but I included it because the banners give a certain Japaneseness to the shot.

Here it is in color (which I don't think helps it much):



--
Rube

Hi Rube

Maybe not much, but it helps something in my opinion, and any help is always welcome ;-) , thanks for posting it.

On the other hand, the banners should be white and not blue, right? Have you tried some time the in-camera white balance correction? Select the image in Play mode and from menu select "white balance", here select "Shadow" and in the preview screen you should see that the blue tint is gone (Shadow is the best option to correct excessive blue). Press "ok" and then a corrected copy will be created after some second (Copy again the original - very important, must be the unchanged original file- again to the camera card if you already deleted it from the card). In the occasions when the WB is really messed up, this is much faster and gives much better results than doing it in Post Process.

--
José Antonio

Ah well, I am color blind anyway.. . .GRIN

--
Rube

 

[Erik Ohlson]

Hi Rube

Great shots, I like specially the two lasts. About the first one, I would like to see the original full colour, if still exists. And I honestly think you aren't far from the truth when you call it art (at least the 2 last ones ;-)).

Thanks for sharing.

--
José Antonio

Thank you sir. I wasn't sure about the 1st one either, but I included it because the banners give a certain Japaneseness to the shot.

Here it is in color (which I don't think helps it much):



--
Rube

Hi Rube

Maybe not much, but it helps something in my opinion, and any help is always welcome ;-) , thanks for posting it.

On the other hand, the banners should be white and not blue, right? Have you tried some time the in-camera white balance correction? Select the image in Play mode and from menu select "white balance", here select "Shadow" and in the preview screen you should see that the blue tint is gone (Shadow is the best option to correct excessive blue). Press "ok" and then a corrected copy will be created after some second (Copy again the original - very important, must be the unchanged original file- again to the camera card if you already deleted it from the card). In the occasions when the WB is really messed up, this is much faster and gives much better results than doing it in Post Process.

--
José Antonio

Now, THAT is something I'll have to try - are there other such tricks hidden in this camera (&/or my ZR700?) and any tutorials easier to follow than the Casio Manual?







--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

 

[JABB66]

Rube

Hi Rube

Maybe not much, but it helps something in my opinion, and any help is always welcome ;-) , thanks for posting it.

On the other hand, the banners should be white and not blue, right? Have you tried some time the in-camera white balance correction? Select the image in Play mode and from menu select "white balance", here select "Shadow" and in the preview screen you should see that the blue tint is gone (Shadow is the best option to correct excessive blue). Press "ok" and then a corrected copy will be created after some second (Copy again the original - very important, must be the unchanged original file- again to the camera card if you already deleted it from the card). In the occasions when the WB is really messed up, this is much faster and gives much better results than doing it in Post Process.

--
José Antonio

Now, THAT is something I'll have to try - are there other such tricks hidden in this camera (&/or my ZR700?) and any tutorials easier to follow than the Casio Manual?



--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

Hi Erik

It's so easy that doesn't need more explanation:

While reviewing the image to correct in the camera screen, press menu.

Choose "Play" Tab if it's not already selected. Here there are similar functions in all the Casio cameras as far as I know (maybe not if they are too old, like 10 years or more, not sure).

Apart from White Balance, there's a bunch of standard options to edit images, like brightness and rotate. Depending of the model, there may be some additional options. In my EX-Z1080, from 2007, you can find options to change the Dynamic Range and trapezoidal and perspective distortion, not found in the ZR series (as far as I know).

You only have to find the White balance option and select it. In my cameras, once selected, you only have the option "Cancel" on screen, so it's easy to be confused and think you can't do anything (hope this has changed in the new menu system of the last models), but you can see that it's the 2nd page of 2 pages of options, so pressing the up or down keys it appears the first page with all the options for the White Balance in your camera (except Auto, of course), with a little preview of the image that shows you what could be the effect of applying it. Once you choose the desired option and press the central button ("Set") after a few seconds you will have the new corrected image saved, while maintaining the original, by the way.

The most usual correction it's when using Auto WB and there's shadows with a blue tint, then changing the WB to "Shadow" corrects it with excellent results. Other uses could be when using an option to WB different from Auto and then not noticing that this WB it's still selected when shooting the next images some time after, in another location so the WB would be incorrect.

Once you have done it once, it's much easier than this long explanation could make it appear.

--
José Antonio

 

[rube39]

Hi Rube

Great shots, I like specially the two lasts. About the first one, I would like to see the original full colour, if still exists. And I honestly think you aren't far from the truth when you call it art (at least the 2 last ones ;-)).

Thanks for sharing.

--
José Antonio

Thank you sir. I wasn't sure about the 1st one either, but I included it because the banners give a certain Japaneseness to the shot.

Here it is in color (which I don't think helps it much):



--
Rube

Hi Rube



On the other hand, the banners should be white and not blue, right? Have you tried some time the in-camera white balance correction? Select the image in Play mode and from menu select "white balance", here select "Shadow" and in the preview screen you should see that the blue tint is gone (Shadow is the best option to correct excessive blue). Press "ok" and then a corrected copy will be created after some second (Copy again the original - very important, must be the unchanged original file- again to the camera card if you already deleted it from the card). In the occasions when the WB is really messed up, this is much faster and gives much better results than doing it in Post Process.

--
José Antonio

I just changed the wb in LR5. It was very easy. I hope the 'blue' is gone now.





BTW, it is interesting that when changing the WB in LR, with some cameras you can pick among the WB presets (sunny, cloudy, shady, etc) but with most, including the ZR800, you are limited to 'as shot,' auto and custom. In this particular case, I used the eye-dropper than then move the temperature and tint sliders just a bit.


Rube

 

[Timj351]

All great photos Rube but the second one is my favorite. This week's "Is it art?" thread by Erik Ohlson is still open and any of these shots would be perfect for it. Thanks for sharing these.

-Tim

 

[JABB66]

Here it is in color (which I don't think helps it much):



--
Rube

Hi Rube

On the other hand, the banners should be white and not blue, right? Have you tried some time the in-camera white balance correction? Select the image in Play mode and from menu select "white balance", here select "Shadow" and in the preview screen you should see that the blue tint is gone (Shadow is the best option to correct excessive blue). Press "ok" and then a corrected copy will be created after some second (Copy again the original - very important, must be the unchanged original file- again to the camera card if you already deleted it from the card). In the occasions when the WB is really messed up, this is much faster and gives much better results than doing it in Post Process.

--
José Antonio

I just changed the wb in LR5. It was very easy. I hope the 'blue' is gone now.



BTW, it is interesting that when changing the WB in LR, with some cameras you can pick among the WB presets (sunny, cloudy, shady, etc) but with most, including the ZR800, you are limited to 'as shot,' auto and custom. In this particular case, I used the eye-dropper than then move the temperature and tint sliders just a bit.

Rube

Hi Rube

Yes, it's almost gone (but some pink tint appears too, typical from the WB corrections in posprocessing), but I'm sure that doing it in-camera the result would be better. I could do it myself, you don't need the same model of Casio camera to read other images made by other Casio camera, what I'm not sure is if I could do the WB conversion with the EX-Z1080 (year 2007) but I'm almost sure I could do it with the EX-FH100 (year 2010); but the problem here is that in the photos uploaded to the DPR Galleries, when you download the images, you get a modified file with the EXIF reduced (except if you folllow the instructions here: allow full EXIF Info for the photos uploaded to galleries . That would be a first, if someone follows those directions ), and then you can't read the image with the camera if you copy it to the camera card.

--
José Antonio